I have a 2009 Dodge Charger and it won't hold charge I changed the alternator and put in a brand new battery it just drains immediately can someone help

140

Asked by BagOfBonez83 Jul 16, 2018 at 07:55 PM about the 2009 Dodge Charger SXT RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

2009 Dodge Charger SXT brand new alternator brand new battery still will not
hold a charge drains almost immediately

18 Answers

7,475

Have you done any testing with multimeter yet to narrow down the issue? Also does the battery light work? With the key in the ON position (engine off) the battery light should come on as well as others, if it doesnt come on its most likely blown and believe it or not it's required to be there to charge the battery, it's known as a "light circut"

5 people found this helpful.
140

I have did some testing with the multimeter it is reading 11 to 10 volts all the way around on the alternator and on the battery just drains down I did not notice on the instrument cluster if the battery light comes on until when you said it but there is no battery life never came through on I even put in a new battery this morning and it drained it as well and still no battery light came on do you think that it might have something to do with the ECU or PCM not allowing the alternator to do his job and recharging the system

6 people found this helpful.
140

And again no low voltage signs for any thing is coming up on the dash no check engine light or anything like that comes up as to let you know or narrowing down where the problem might be coming from

140

I think you might be right with the fact that the bulb will not come on. Do I replace the whole instrument cluster or just the bulb inside the instrument cluster?

7,475

You SHOULD be able to replace just the bulb, id get it from the dealer in case it is a special bulb (which it may be) and no I'm not sure what series (I assume you mean bulb number). While running the alternator should be putting out 14.1 to 14.7 volts so your numbers are defiently battery voltage and low at 10 volts. To lose a COUPLE points of voltage between the alternator and battery isn't uncommon but anything more than that is an issue. Please update as you can, not only will I be watching this thread but if you're able to solve your issue it will help others in the future!

4 people found this helpful.
140

I took into what you said earlier and I started looking at the instrument cluster and examining it and I noticed it's all those lights within the gauge under the RPM that is not coming on when I go into gear when I go into neutral when I go into parking none of those lights are coming on so I am thinking is not just a ball but it is a fuse I used a voltage meter to test the wire that runs into the alternator is getting no power at all I used a test light circuit fuse tester and I just can't find the fuse that is blown would you be able to tell me which fuse it is that is used for the gauges or the instrument cluster

2 people found this helpful.
140

Is there a fuse I can change for the instrument cluster or do I have to change the entire instrument cluster? When there are multiple lights off and that's what stoping my alternator from charging please help thanks

2 people found this helpful.
7,475

Fuse box in the trunk, check fuse 14 (10amp) and fuse 17 (20amp). With you multimeter you can test fuses without having to remove them by setting the meter to continuity which will show of they're good or not, there's little metal pieces on the top you can touch the meter probes too, if yours happen to have a little sound symbol that is audible continuity and will sound tone which makes it much nicer to use. I've attached a picture of 2 different meters I have with the dials set to the proper settings and the probes touching so you can see the readout, don't get hung up on what the number is unless it's 1 which means infinity or no contact. You should check all your fuses just to be thorough. I hope this helps, will check back later.

3 people found this helpful.
7,475

Do you have the owners manual for the car? It should give the locations of the fuse boxes and a layout of fuses/ relays. Yes there is always the possibility that the cluster has gone belly up but its not terribly common. You should test the diodes also to make sure they're still good, there generally black and have a arrow with a line going through the arrow

2 people found this helpful.
140

You are correct the fuse is number 17 but I checked it it seems to be working just fine nothing blown I checked all the fuses it seems to be working fine nothing blown so it is looking like I might have to change the entire instrument cluster and it is crazy that only in that area that gauge area that all lights are blown except for everywhere else and without that battery light turning on it will not give any power to turn it on the alternator the on switch is in the instrument cluster that red battery light I will do a test by just changing that battery light for the instrument cluster

7,475

Geeze eh.... well you may want to check the diodes in the front fuse box quick and the wiring that leads back, it's known to corrode up front

1 people found this helpful.
310

Your fuse box might be bad but can also be your TCM model that will kill your battery and mak your p.r.d.n. light not come on

140

Yes I did get a fix the source of the problem was corroded wires underneath the fuse Box in the rear compartment where the trunk is located hope this helps

4 people found this helpful.
10

Do you remember which wire it was bro..?... And I don't see and wires under the fuse box I see some in the screw connected to the fuse box... Give me a call if you can 334-544-3949 my name is Cobi. Thanks. I really need your help

1 people found this helpful.
10

What was the fix for the corroded wires? Did you replace them yourself or have a mechanic do it? If you did it yourself, how did you do it?

1 people found this helpful.

My Charger is doing the same thing. I replaced the battery today thinking that would fix it. But it still stutters and has a hard time starting. I’ve had both my starter and alternator replaced in the last year. I’m hoping it’s just bad wires. Taking it tomorrow to find out. *sigh

Your Answer:

Charger

Looking for a Used Charger in your area?

CarGurus has 724 nationwide Charger listings starting at $5,995.

Postal Code:

CarGurus Experts

  • #1
    Supanovah
    Reputation
    3,540
  • #2
    EricandCrystal Fernandez
    Reputation
    2,280
  • #3
    Willie Francis
    Reputation
    2,180
View All

Find great deals from top-rated dealers

Search

Related Models For Sale

Used Dodge Challenger
23 Great Deals out of 450 listings starting at $7,999
Used Chevrolet Camaro
20 Great Deals out of 280 listings starting at $7,995
Used Ford Mustang
62 Great Deals out of 1,356 listings starting at $4,995
Used Dodge Durango
52 Great Deals out of 2,217 listings starting at $5,500
Used Jeep Grand Cherokee
103 Great Deals out of 3,130 listings starting at $3,995
Used Chrysler 300
33 Great Deals out of 548 listings starting at $3,999
Used Chevrolet Corvette
27 Great Deals out of 1,083 listings starting at $15,000
Used BMW 3 Series
70 Great Deals out of 1,229 listings starting at $2,500
Used Ford F-150
318 Great Deals out of 13,848 listings starting at $1,712
Used Honda Accord
56 Great Deals out of 997 listings starting at $2,000
Used Chevrolet Silverado 1500
196 Great Deals out of 5,897 listings starting at $2,975
Used BMW M3
3 Great Deals out of 92 listings starting at $15,995
Used Mercedes-Benz C-Class
99 Great Deals out of 1,627 listings starting at $3,995
Used Dodge RAM 1500
5 Great Deals out of 68 listings starting at $3,000

Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus. Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies.