I have a 09 F250 super duty while driving in town snd I make a right or left turn the steering wants to continue in that direction but if I give the steering wheel a quick jolt in the opposite

First you look at if the vehicles loaded, get it at "curb weight" measure spring height, note the type of axle, springs, additional equipment may or may not have been added. tire type and pressure settings, compare to door sticker. check for service bulletins. Do inspections, answer any questions about its condition, parts in use, their point of wear. Affect repairs or updates.Get the normal service work completed like wheel bearing pack and any adjustments found loose or parts that are causing excessive play. Next you measure wheel aligning angles and compare to spec for spring height and spring type with the axle in use. If you find a wheel aligning angle or angles out of spec, then there are provisions to correct, and bulletins have been published to attain the proven method with the lowest cost. I am sure , by now, you can believe I am suggesting you go to the right end of the horse to have a discussion about your actual needs and do so at the Ford dealer. You would buy fewer parts, get only parts or adjustments that help, and be able to consult engineering data, as well as results of actual correction in the field. You could merely be looking at tire conicity, or need of a caster wedge, or both, again, it depends what axle, and what readings and all other factors mentioned before. 20 years of making them better than they were is where I draw this info from, eventually bulletins were written that agree, and the findings most often agree with those bulletins whether they specifically apply to year, make, and model, or not. The variable is the roads you drive on and how they are crowned for drainage in your locale. The bulletins include that factor. Your tech may be that studious? or you can request deeper knowledge from his service manager, if it is not to your liking when you hear the report of what they find.

I should mention that maintenance of power steering may be recommended, but historically does not cause the "lack of returnability" you describe or the "heavy feel" the axle's attitude and tire type and condition, spring height, etc are more likely the controlling factors. A malfunction in the steering assist would act up with the axle jacked up, then starting the engine. the control valve would be directing pressure at all times. This type of concern has not occurred since the seventies with integral Ford steering gear. even then, it must have been one in ten thousand and after rebuild. also, The pump would not differentiate left or right, and the fluid condition can be inspected for its color. Like I said before, any self steering box would act up imediately when started with the weight removed from the front wheels. Return to the first posting answer and do what it says no matter what anybody says.

If its a four wheel drive more than likely one of your axle joints is dry and stiff so when you turn it it stays in that position till you crank it back

see what I mean?

Drive axle joints on a 4wheel drive pickup can often suffer from water entry they get loose, not tight. The needles crumble internally from lack of lube, displacment of their factory lube by water, and get ground up causing looseness. Reviewing bulletins that apply to yours is the fastest. Discussing the condition with an experienced dealer tech after inspection can get you the least expense to the most effective fix. We proved it over and over. Ford has been making automobiles since before the aftermarket's grandfather could ride a Bike. Their attempts at increasing fuel economy while complying with laws governing their results for every aspect results in updates, you cannot get the same corrections or lower prices, its proven over 20 years I watched, learned, called engineers, was schooled, and had successful results.

this is not entirely accurate i work in a shop and have seen this happen many times with u joints that you cannot grease they get rusted and start to bind and when you pull the axle out it is very difficult to replace the u joint because you cant pivot the joint to get clips out

Referr to the correct service manual, and you will see the method for drive axle repair begins with its removal, that should save some hours and frustration. The returnability issues of a six year old pickup are well known to be affected by all the conditions outlined here first and foremost. The reduction in spring height that gets the customer one free adjustment from the selling dealer would be long gone, but the engineering from the proving grounds stays with it....... Like was outlined, Inspecting for loose and worn parts, then reviewing the bulletins leads to corrections for water entry, especially water entry leading to failure of parts that actually control steering and its returnability. It depends what you find on yours, what axle and springs are in use, and severity can be affected by the types of roads you frequent, to reitterate.

Also, many drive axles are offered at a lower cost with lifetime to save future repeat repair costs, in this case, you replace the whole thing anyway, call around for the best deal is always recommended...if you end up with the engineering update, as it may apply.

most people wont spend the money to buy a axle assembly when you can replace the u joint for a fraction of the cost

Whatever you recommend after your research is what they have to choose from....but the asker wants to find out the basic idea about his vehicle, these imaginary tangents are clouding this thread. he did not say what axle or springs or set of parts he's dealing with so I still take you back to the top of the first posting to follow inspection procedure. this answers his question and he can start finding out his actual point of wear or degradation in reality with a service technician, see what his real needs may be. who knows, he could be like my father in law, slow leak in one tire, hahaha

My 2008 Super duty did that also, it turned out the A/C compressor was shot, and was taxing the engine enough to affect the steering pump pressure. Once I changed the compressor (not particularly easy on mine), it was fine.