my camry died on me ran out of gas. got new fuel pump. car starts again but when put in drive.. no power.. car acts like its in N.. what do i change next???
my car ran out of gas, and wouldn't start back up. we changed the fuel pump as well as the relay switch, the car starts back up and drove ok for about 10 min when the car stopped accelerating and acted as if it was in Neutral. the check engine light is on and when she acting as if she were in neutral the check engine light started to flash. the car has not been driven since, im not sure what to change next.. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
5 Answers
Inspect for things you left unplugged, note the condition. Record the number of flashes in sequence. Obtain a code reader from the parts store with a card for later return. Get the manual at the public library or buy one.Some toyota books were donated and they pay for in house professional automotive database. Test your codes to decipher your indicators. Inspect your trans fluid and inspect for a leak. let us know what those results are , please, there is an info database at enginecodes.com
I went to autozone and got the care read and it states couple problems like - plugged fuel injector - O2 sensor - and fuel malfunction and some other little problems, the sequence is about 5 blocks it stops getting power and starts acting as if in N then the light starts flashing seems about 5 flashes. One of my questions is that if I do a full tune up and oil change as well as changing the fuel filter, spark plugs, O2 sensor etc.. if that would make her run????
No, that is not necessarily the parts list I would recommend, especially if you are going to install a group of aftermarkrt parts. The cause of being in neutral first, the cause from the flashout code,second. The pinpoint tests which follow the codes you had third. Car diagnosis is not accurately achieved the other way. If you read the service manual, you would see what I mean. might be time for calling AAA and get experienced camry help.
There seems to be a problem with some Camrys getting stuck in Limp Mode. Here is an article I found on the subject. Mystery of the Toyota Camry Limp Home Mode Light June 22, 2010 at 10:29:00 AM by Mike Allen | Comments Q: We own a 2005 Toyota Camry with 27,000 miles. In October 2009 the car went into the Limp Home mode (Check Engine light on) for the first time. We had it towed to the local Toyota dealer who kept it for three days and didn't find any error codes related to the problem. We brought it home and drove it for a couple of weeks without incident until it went into Limp Home with the Check Engine light on again. The dealer said it gave error messages (PO607) that the "air sensors" were bad. We had it fixed and brought it home on 10/19/09 and drove it until 11/02/09 when it went into the "limp home" mode again! This time we told them to keep the car until it was fixed. After a week, Toyota decided to replace the ECM. Since then we have not had any problems with the car. Fingers crossed. There are two Hall-effect sensors in the Toyota/CTS pedal which have to be in a close agreement on voltage or the ECM will go into the "limp home" mode. Can you tell me how replacing the ECM corrected the voltage in the two sensors? It seems to me that the voltage is going to the ECM and not the other way around. How did the sensors get out of whack causing the ECM to shut the car down? I believe the problem Toyota is having is electrical not mechanical and will keep close eye on our car. A: Many, many things can make the ECM go into Limp Home, not just the pedal sensors. Obviously, the pedal sensors weren’t the problem in your case. I do find it difficult to swallow that the dealer could find no codes set if the Check Engine light was on. if the rpms of the engine can go past 1700~ in neutral, it's not in limp mode. even if it won't accelerate in gear w/ a load on it. if it won't go past 1700~ in neutral, then it is in limp mode. the ecu won't have advanced curve info on fuel and timing trim in limp mode. so engine momentum/vehicle momentum in gear, will be the only reason it might go above 1700~ rpm. As stated, only way to know what's what, is to have the ecu codes read. this requires an obd2 scanner tool and a code chart. You could go to most any auto parts store, and if they have the time, can read, but not *clear* codes for you. make note of them. DO NOT buy anything they may suggest. especially a sensor. they are sensor happy sellers. good at that. but sensors should first be tested. and generically, do not trust any counter person to be a diagnostic tech. noting the code(s), one can look them up here, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi... Not knowing the engine config, you have to determine that and look up codes on the app chart. likely the code(s) will point to one or more components/systems listed in the left pane of this page, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi... that shows location, testing, and replacement procedures of a given component or system. ------- CAUTION! Here's the catch, if you engine says VVT on the top engine cover, you about need to be a master tech when dealing with those engines. they are *interference* type engines and are far more complicated than any other engines out there. for the most part. So if you're unsure about any of this, do take it to a reputable ASE shop or the dealer for diagnosis and repair. if the engine says VVT on the cover, I'd take it to the dealer only.
OBDII should standardise that to "limited operating strategy". They want you to get it checked to stop any pollution, so they called it "limp-in mode" Cannot imagine why they would tell you to limp home that sounds more like a german car to me. But I digress. ................Terminology aside, though, why would sensors be sending voltage? Signal return. There is a reference, there is a change, there is a signal that returns. If a processor is set with parameters and 2 like sensors have a comparator, and the resulting operation is outside that parameter. The sensors or the parameter must be changed in the way you have the story, to keep the processor from saving itself, you, or the atmosphere. in a limited strategy to compel you to get your codes read. This is why technicians call engineers about rewriting processor data. .............This guy says "can I just put some parts on? and a "good" tuneup" That is part of treating the symptom, so yes. But the diagnosis must continue with the correct knowledge and experience, knowledge of updates, and bulletins much like the helpful information reelin68 provided. The condition will recur no matter how many parts get replaced. When the cause is communication? or signal noise ? As well as expectations.
