How to unlock the anti-thief system?

You can try this,remove positive cable from battery,place key in car and turn to the on position,then replace positive cable,turn key off then back on,should reset it,but if not you may have to have a dealer reset the antitheft for you.

Thanks. Actually I saw the man who fixed my car did something to my car battery cable. He didn't remove the positive cable,but used a plier to turn the joint of the cable a little. Maybe it is the way you told me. Next time ,hope not, I will try.

This solution just worked on my 2004 Ford Escape! Thank you!!

This just worked on my Ford Escape 2005 as well! Gracias!

2005 ford escape 3.0 worked. thanks

2011 Ford Escape limited this didn't work. Tried it mutiple times like what you said and still it won't start. Kind of in a pickle if can't get it started. The dealership needs to see vehicle but can't get it to start to get it there. They said to try remove positive leave for 15 mins and should reset itself. Well it didn't. Any other suggestions?

I tried that and it did not work but I've disconnected it now or I'm going to leave it disconnected for longer and try again.... But I also do not have any key fobs and I'm using aftermarket key I do not have any of the original Factory keys. I'll be lucky if this thing ever runs again.

This works for my 2002 Ford Escape but then it won’t turn off

removing the + did not work

I have a 2001 ford excape and the car run and the alarm wont go off what wire can i cut to make it not work anymore plz i need so help thanks

For the alarm have you tried locking and unlocking the door with the key on both driver and passenger door?

It worked on my 08 scape. I stuck in the middle of no where. Thanks guys.

Thank you so much!! It worked perfect......l was without a car for 2 days and was ready to have it towed to a Ford dealer but then I saw this!!!! Again thank you soooo much......

The Anti-theft dash light shows it's working, and auto door locks work from the key fob, BUT, the horn doesn't activate. Nor does it activate when pressing the 'panic button' on the key fob. ???

from time to time my 2010 Ford did not want to start but sometimes by closing and reopening the doors with the buttons of the key, I could get it started, but this morning no mechanical reaction, as if there is an electronic blocking but I'm not sure of the source of the blockage, is it the anti-theft or a problem on the security chip reader or what exactly ???

try turn key twice to open driver door

Can I just Disconnect the antitheft system on a 2002 Ford escape when I go to try to start it the antitheft just flashes

The anti-theft system kicked in on my 2010 Ford Escape after i replaced my battery.The tow truck operator seen this before and fixed it for me.All he done was lock and unlock my doors a few times with the remote.This reset the Anti-theft on my rig.In still had to pay for the tow truck showing up but least i saved myself the garage costs.I hope this was helpful to other people.

None of these suggestion worked.I ended having to have my car towed to the dealership and have two new keys cut and programmed. I spent $291 at the Ford dealership in Scottsdale,Az I was surprised they washed my car, topped over my fluids and replaced my windshield wipers and got the car back in 3 hours on a Saturday.

I have a 2002 Ford Escape I had to have a new ignition and they programmed me to new keys from the dealership after having a new ignition switch and my new keys I was able to start my truck but one night I I was working on it I had it jacked up in the air and I had running for particular reason and it shut off it just bogged down and would never start do you think that would be something do to my programming.. Its like my fuel pump wont kick on even though i know its a good pump

first of all, fords do not respond to disconnecting the battery, if you take the time and can find a certified ford mechanic he might be honest and explain it to you. for those of you that it worked for you probably had a loose cable or some corrosion between the post and cable, it doesn't always show but its like plaque, do the basic when you have and electrical problem, check every fuse you can find, lay your hand on the relay that operates the function you are having a problem with, you should feel a click, try switching relays around, most fords have several that are the same. one of fords biggest problems is the ground circuit, pull all ground straps off and sand or clean with wire brush and reconnect, if you are mechanically inclined add some ground straps between engine and fire wall. you would be surprised at how simple some solutions. the way to clear all codes from ford computer is a little touchy and i'm hesitant to add it because i might miss a step, if anyone wants the procedure i'll look for it and post it later, if any ford expert knows the exact procedure they might answer, it involves taking the positive cable off the battery, isolate it, wrap a cloth or some thing that won't carry current around it and tie it with a string out of the way, its important it not become connected while you do this or your computer will be fried. now with the ground still connected, take a length of wire i use #8 or 10, put some kind of clip, alligator clip is best, on each end, clip it on the battery negative cable and the other end to the positive post on battery, remember the positive is still isolated and not hooked up, there is no power to anything, so again, you are using a jumper wire from the still connected ground to the disconnected positive battery, not the cable. i always leave one for hours or overnight, i'm sure it doesn't take that long. this drains the memory out of the ford computer and clears the codes. this way you don't need a scanner to get it out of limp mode. if you don't feel comfortable with the electrical system i wouldn't do this. i've used this procedure for several years mostly on mustangs and the big fords and mercurys and the suv's.

I have a 2010 Ford escape with appx 87 k on it. mine started acting this way about 1.5 yrs ago, all the lights worked ,but it would not start. it would after like 5 to 15 minutes. then next time nothing. I had the ignition replaced, that was 6 more ago, now again this problem starting up, I had battery replaced in key fob about 2 wks ago but that was still lot of time for it to start. now the battery wont stay in key fob and key come out of key fob while in ignition. what do I...

first you need to be specific about it wouldn't start, did the starter turn the engine over and it just wouldn't start or did the starter not engage. next you do not need the key fob to start the car, you only need the transponder key. and in your gauge panel where the speedometer and gauges are you will have a lock or unlock symbol, all ive seen are in the lower left corner, thats the anti theft warning light, when you turn the key on it should flash a couple times then go out, if it flashes fast and shows the lock symbol locked then the anti theft is activated and you can't start the car, without more information its hard to give good advice, sometimes when its a minor problem you can just put the key in the ignition and leave it for a while, in the off/locked position. don't do anything at all , don't lock or unock doors with key fob or try to starte it, just put the key in and walk away from car for a few hours, sometime the computer will realize the problem and clear the condition itself, and when you say you had the ignition replaced that could be a problem, sometimes when you change the ignition and it gets re programmed it will work for a while then just stop, causing more confusion. ford says in all its bulletins to not use after market transponder keys to only use ford, rotunda, or strattic , or the programming won't keep. the last car i changed ignition on was a 2009 focus which i think uses the same procedure as the escape , i rekeyed the new assy to the original transponder key so nothing had to be programmed.

thank you so much for your answer. my car clicks but the car wont start, the car is currently in a public parking lot, so I didn't leave it unlocked, I did not get a new key when my ignition was replaced, I tried turning the key with pliers as l could not grasp it any other way since not in fob. I am taking it to dealership. it is huge inconvenience as it is my only vehicle . I am so citizen too, so funds are limited

if its clicking then the ignition is turning far enough, that is one consolation. it could be the battery cables need cleaning or bad battery or the relay. the cables will fool lots of people, when they don't make a good connection they sort of sizzle or jump voltage between cable and post forming what i call plaque, it looks clean but needs to be sanded or cleaned with wire brush or small battery cable/post tool. that is a big problem area. wish i could help, im an old grouch of 77 and i try to keep ahead of serious problems, the last few years i figured out if i keep a membership in triple a its cheaper in the long run. the middle membership is the best, basic is almost useless and premium i don't have use for. but i look for discounts each year, this year im paying 120.00 a year and i got my son on free, so we get 8 tows or service calls between us, battery jumps, car unlock etc, one year at that is cheaper than a tow to the dealer, you only have to wait a week fo us it once you join, middle membership gives you one two hundred mile tow for each person and 3 100 mile tows. this also includes locksmith service if needed and they will come out and clean your battery and check it and jump start your car . good luck

I have a 2003 ford escape and it starts but the anti theft light is on and gear shift is locked and I can't roll my windows down and after a certain amount of time the car cuts off and I can use the remote to lock/unlock doors but the horn sounds faded the ignition was replaced when it was sold to me so I cannot use the key to open the doors only by remote....what should I do anyone plzzzz?!?!??

Got a 2001 ford escape this worked perfectly for my car...... Thank you

Got a 2013 Ford Escape and I left the key in it for about 10 minutes...won’t crank, no lights, no NOTHING. Can anyone help me with this problem?

Thank you for your solution! It worked perfectly for my problem. I replaced the battery in my daughter's 2005 Escape and upon reconnecting the negative battery terminal, the alarm activated. Unfortunately, the previous owner had added a larger 'horn'. So, in addition to the flashing lights, etc., we couldn't stop the lid siren. While the alarm was activated, I disconnected the positive battery cable & turned the ignition to the 'start' position and it sprung back to 'ACC' position. I then reconnected the positive battery cable and BOOM. Problem solved! Everything is back to normal. Thank you!

Hi, came to this forum seeking assistance. I did not have any success with any of the listed remedies, however, it did leave me with some clues. On Christmas day my wife had received a diamond dress up kit for her 2012 Ford Escape which consisted of a diamond licence plate frame, diamond steering wheel cover, diamond key ring and a circular diamond ring that adheres to the ignition switch, she couldn't wait to dress up her Escape, keep in mind that the car has given us 8 years of dedicated service and now today it would not start. The vehicle powered up, however, would not start and the security light was blinking. After going through every remedy in this forum I was unsuccessful. Then I read one of the replies referring to programming the key and that is when I realized that possibly the metal framed diamond circular ring that was adhered to the ignition switch may be blocking the signal from the key, I peeled off the decorative ring and turned the key with success, started right up as she did for us since day one. So, do not place anything around your ignition switch that may interfere with the signal from the key. Thanks to all who take the time write your opinions, James

Yo i tried everything on my 2010 ford fusion sel. The only thing that worked was the positive battery cable maneuver detailed above. Thanks cuz I was freaking out there for a min.

how to reset my locked radio for Ford Escape 2005 model. I got the code from dealer but unfortunately, it was in the locked mode after I tried to key in the wrong codes for more than 10times. The dealer wouldnt want to explain further but said that I need to pay them before they will look into it. Please help

Hi. I have a 2009 Ford Escape that activate the anti-teft an the radio turn on itself and drained the battery. The anti- teft light blinks fast and the engine won’t start. Some help?

So here's what worked for my in my 2012 Ford Escape: Before I got to attempt the fix as mentioned by T_S_T, my gf told me to leave the key in the ignition to the ON position for 10 minutes, don't crank the engine, just leave it in the ON position no matter what happens, and try to turn it on after 10 minutes passed. This caused my dash and Headlights to flicker repeatedly as well as the solenoids were repeatedly ticking during those 10 min and it seemed like my battery was draining as I could see the Headlights were very dim. I then attempted to turn the car on after 10 min passed, which to no surprise couldn't even turn on due to the battery actually being dead now. I disconnected the positive terminal on the battery for about 5 min while I was charging my Capacitor Jumpstart pack, I then decided to reconnect the positive terminal again and continue charging up my Jumpstart pack. After 10-15 min, the pack was ready to send a charge to my battery so I can turn it on. I held the key forward and VOILA! It started right up! For those of you who may be confused on how to perform this fix, just jumpstart the car with some jumper cables instead of a capacitor jumpstart pack. Hope this helps! -Mike