Car issue

Its going one eight years old. I have some questions. How has the car survived them 8 years maintained well or fill me in if not? Not just oil changes. Its been long enough to need Fuel filter, timing belt, Some sensors/solenoids cleaned or replaced. Stalling can be caused by a failed crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor as the engine may stall when the engine is warmed up. These sensors can fail intermittently so the problem may come and go. Sensors on certain models have been recalled by Nissan and will be replaced as necessary so may be worth checking that out. May or may not be the issue but its also possible.

Check the MAF sensor ground wire to be sure its tight and connected good.

MAF may need a new ground. If it persist it will likely set a code and check engine light will come on. But if Spark plugs & plug wires are older may be time to replace them along with the other tune up item like air filter. Fuel pump, coils, ect may need looked into. Just may need to run it till a code sets to locate or get a multimeter and some testing leads and repair book and start testing sensors and wires otherwise until code does set it could be lots of possible things. If its cranking back up and no odd engine noise, is good sign, unless you know the timing belt has high miles on it and could be stretching, I would replace it and also have the over-look for other issues and tell them what happens.

Now the company that I had it towed to today was the same company that did my oil change yesterday, I towed it to them bcuz they were the last ones under the hood of my car and for this to happen the very next day...it was kind of odd to have this issue that I never experienced before in the 2yrs I've had the car. Other than that jerking problem haven't had any major issues under the hood @ all.

Did this happen the first time after the oil change? If so I think it may be connected, Like said above the MAF sensor ground may have gotten pulled or loose or some other wires or connectors, I do however think it should set a code. If its working part of the time it may not set a code yet.

Yes this is the first of all the oil changes I've had since I've had the car. I don't think I'll be taking my car back to the company again..it was the first time I been there for any service. After that it just has me nervous to drive it now unfortunately.

So yours does have a timing chain, no belt, it should be fine, but may be worth checking timing or cam or crank sensors as these are known to have issues with directly and/or indirectly causing stalling and jumping problems so I would check it next.

OK if I'll have them check...but.... will they be able to detect a problem with these sensors without a check engine light????

I have seen a lot of complaints on here as well for the same problem from other customers.

I think the without the code pointing the way and it not happening all the time, A scanner is not going to help unless its a higher grade scanner like a Snap-on that can be connected to it driven around until it happens again, it will need to be set in data mode to watch the values move out of range so someone will have to drive and someone watch the scanner. Otherwise test with multimeter, cam and crank sensor one or the other may show a issue and point to the issue if it has one or guess by replacing both, they are very easy to replace, its not like taking the engine out. On a interesting note, Nissian's have been re-called for both of these sensors most are for crank sensor, If not under re-call I would replace it first (crank sensor) then the cam sensor. Call dealerships to find out if yours is under re-calls.

OK I'll do that..thanks for your help.

Also I would not buy the OEM dealeship sensors since it appears they have not re-made them to actually last very long and take a smaller chance on a after-market sensor made by a good comapny and these are most often the one that cost a little more, not the cheapest that a shop would buy for you if they are replacing for you, so go buy your own sensor, most times there will be 2-3 companies selling them at auto-parts stores, the cheapest is no better than the dealership part or worse and the highest costing sensors are hype and no better than the middle priced sensor, and ifs a well known company buy that one in this case of dealer parts failing.

Gotcha...well I was going to wait and see if does it again to be honest with you.

Plus a shop adds money to the part they buy for you so you could take that extra money and buy a better sensor, instead of the cheapest they shops buy, not all do this but More do thank don't. But all add cost to anything they buy as a part or service product like shop rags, cleaner fluids ect is all added to the bill in hike up price mode so any parts you need your better off researching the best and go buy it yourself just so they will not buy the cheapest part and charge you more than the highest/better part you could of had.

Its not mentioned much on here but if you know exactly what you want done and have a few days or week to make an appointment the best way to get this done and actually have it tested fully is locate your local 2 year tech school, tell them the shop teacher your issue and you want the cam and crank sensors replaced and have them test for other possible causes and they will have you bring the sensor and drop it off, sign papers and call when done. All you pay is parts and small shop fee to cover rags/ soap for that day.

Hmm I don't believe there is something like that located here...but I'll check around.

I had a truck 1965 model it had weird problems that would take months to figure out, i had another car to drive so it ran but I called the school one day just to ask and the teacher was very excited to work on it, So long story short, I took it to them that day. I felt every part of the truck needed attention and he said we would love to use it for a whole year taking it completely apart and testing and teaching the students on and putting back together running great aslong as the engine and trans could be rebuilt. I thought this could cost too much for parts, then he said all other items will be fixed or replaced with parts from the auto-store (may or may not be OEM) if its enrolled in the program the only thing the school will not buy is a new engine or new block to build a new engine or a new transmission for it but if you can provide those items there will be no other charges. On a split second I said yes. About six months later He called and said they were ready for the engine and my block was bad and the trans not the best, So I looked around found another motor and trans for $300, only thing was the trans was a automatic, but he said he could not absorb the cost of a trans cooler or new radiator as they had already cleaned the old one up, so I paid for a large trans oil cooler and also the motor cooling in and out tubes were opposite and had to pay to have it swapped, I had to go get those parts and have a radaitor shop do the radator for me but all the rest of the truck cost me nothing, they took it down to the frame and back with all new or repaired items, and the truck was great, they did not do any body work or paint it but mechanically it was a daily driver all for about $550 and a year wait, So if you have time you can get this fixed there and they will not give up on testing until they locate the problem. All of the little issues mine had were a thing of the past I forgot about until writing this. Well worth it.

As a side note for those reading this in the future, your interested in getting your car/truck in a tech school program. No I did not know when the school year started or ended, just happen to work out. This id what I did I called, The shop teacher said come down to talk to me, I went and the school was almost empty, no one but teachers there, I realized the school had not started for that session yet. Was starting in two days for the Auto shop. They did not yet have a new project for that year but did have some they used every year , of those they did not have any trucks. I thought it would be a fix it and come get it deal, But they wanted it for the whole school year. I took the chance, yes I have heard of things going wrong, but heck it was already going wrong and needed work, so I said yes, spent a half hour talking to school dean and signing papers releasing them the truck and it may have not came back but in a alot of boxes if they did not finish it. So yes its a chance you take.

Otherwise they do also work on cars everyday that their older students fix and repair so you can go there any day they are there even for oil changes just provide the oil and filter an drop off, so if you just need it fixed they are glad to have to work, they are always looking for wide range of makes and models to teach with. You do not have to enroll it in the program as I did, but if it needs alot of work and you do not want it sitting in your driveway while not running great like mine was then its best to enroll it.