Persistent battery drain

I have this same exact issue and have been to my dealership multiple times with no fix. It's so frustrating. I have to ride around with jumper cables in my vehicle. Please help!!! I have a 2010 LR2 HSE as well.

this is a huge issue across LR2s from 2007 on. the class action suit has been in the news now as of August 2015. Just google Landrover LR2 class action suit. I recommend all LR2 owners with the issue contact the firm that is listed in the news articles....personally I am tired of this. We cannot use our auto light setting, the sunroof does it. etc. It just drains.....I had to jump ours again this morning after 2 nights without use. Don't bother with landrover dealerships....they will just keep replacing the battery and you will keep paying for it....We have already replaced the battery once.

I have a 2009 LR2. I'm having the same battery draining issue. I've had the battery tested multiple times with results reflecting that my battery is fine. This past week the car sat for two days and wouldn't start which really came at no surprise. I had it jumped and this time the dashboard did not even light up at all. I have just recently replaced the battery so I'll soon be letting it sit for a few days as a test. NOTE Land Rover turned my Blue tooth off. The issue was not resolved for me with this action.

I have had 7 batteries over 5years. Dealership wants to charge $65 for placing battery in car. I'm done with dealing with this issue. If interested join me! http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit- settlements/lawsuit-news/86654-jaguar-hit-5m- battery-defect-class-action-lawsuit/

Got my third new battery today on the 2009 LR2. Had to jump it after it was in the garage Sat night to Monday morning. Funny thing was it passed all the maintenance tests 2 weeks ago at Landrover....figures....Put in the Die Hard Gold AGM Group 94. Hoping this might manage whatever is draining the dang system all the time......sick of this problem, but dont want to buy new car.....cha ching another $200 out the door....

Nat, I took my battery out and just did recharge at O'Reily Auto Parts, then drove vehicle to Interstate Power Center. The dealership just replaces battery under warranty but charges diagnosis or labor. Don't get rid of the car just yet. I'll just keep positive cable off every night until I feel comfortable driving it. I'm thinking the radio is staying on. Try to turning it on without starting.

In an odd way, it is reassuring to know that so many of you are/have experienced this issue. I purchased a 2008 LR2 SE in October with 66K miles and in excellent condition. It has run flawlessly for 4 months. My wife started noticing the startup as being weaker than when we got it. I just changed out the serpentine belt and idler pulleys, and while reconnecting the battery noticed a significant spark at the negative post. An ammeter attached inline to the negative shows a parasitic draw of 13.5 amps. The manual says a max of 4 mA, so this is clearly out of range. After testing the alternator (output and diodes), starter motor and relay, and every fuse and relay in the three fuse boxes, I cannot locate the source. The grounds and wiring in general looks brand new and secure. I read about the Bluetooth and shut it off at the radio---didn't change a thing. The battery is 2 years old (790 CCA) and checks out fine. In the interim, I installed a battery cutoff switch under the hood. Is there any component connected to the battery that does not have a fuse or relay?

Just out of curiousity, how much drain has anyone experienced? I've identified about 12.35 DC volts / 13.5 DC amperes. My research on the Bluetooth phone issues mentioned a less than 1 DC amp drain in addition to the "normal" amount of about 0.5 amps. Is the ECM or CAN bus components (i.e. computer internal fault) a possibility?

I have both 2010 lr2 and 2010 Volvo XC60 My xc60 had similar issue and only the Garden State Volvo dealer fixed and under warranty which just had expired. It was the satellite radio module. They first asked me to see if sat radio worked and it didn't. Low and behold they swapped out module which stopped it from constantly trying to find it and draining battery. Over a year now and no issues! Possibly related since these vehicles were sharing tech back then when Ford owned them all

Hi Charlie! I thank you for your info. I have 58000 miles on this 2010 LR2 and I have been through 3 batteries. That's just ridiculous. Has anyone reported this to LR? I have called them at their headquarters to report this and they are oblivious. It's a total run around. I cannot seem to get the help I need from Land Rover or my dealership although I have specifically asked them to Google LR2 battery issues and mentioned this feed. Why are they not addressing this when so many people have the same issue? I am so tired of getting into my LR and feeling that drain when I try to start the vehicle. I have paid for all of the batteries except one because I am now out of warranty and the complaint seems to fall on deaf ears. They think that a girl does not know her vehicle????.....I have news for them, I know every squeak and noise my LR makes and I address them as appropriate. I had to purchase a portable jumper device to start my LR when it happens....that's just wrong! Good thing I'm a gal that can fend for herself but for the average gal..probably not. What can we do to get LR to fix this problem without having to spend more money? I love this vehicle outside of the battery issue and have only had one other problem since I purchased it. I do not use the Satellite radio and have resorted to not using the regular radio. I never turn it on...I should not have to so that!! I have tried locking my car in my garage and bringing the key inside when I do so and keeping the auto light feature turned off to see if that makes a difference and nothing has changed. Please advise on next steps. I want to keep this vehicle because I love the looks and it is paid for with low mileage. I do not want to spend more money! Thanks

I also wanted to add that when I tell my dealership that I have resorted to keeping everything turned off and not using features design for this vehicle they seem to blow it off. They also suggest the same. There is something wrong with that!!! We pay high dollars to drive a LR and we should be able to use the basic features provided. Nuff said!

Just submit to class action. Land Rover has a file for everytime you have taken the vehicle in.

Hi LR2008, I Googled the law suit layers referenced and I got the front desk gal that supposedly transferred me to the secretary of the lawyer handling the law suit and she had no idea what I was talking about....major fail! I left my phone number much to my chagrin and never got a call back. Makes me think the law suit is bogus! Sigh :(

Spell check got me on lawyers

Pantoni.. I agree with you just put a new Battery on july -2016.. 2008 LR2 105k miles.. had it for 2 years now & it just niw started this.. did fine all summer.. but wait the temperature drop 30 degrees it was 48 this am.. in September 28,2016.. Battery dead ? Iam going to hook a bulb up to lead on battery and start unplugging fuses to find parasitic Drain.. Are put a 100 amp ignition control relay to shut off every thing but the keyless entry.. will keep posted on finding..

I have a 2010 RR VOGUE I have had a new alternator and battery but battery still dies every morning! I have no visible issues wrong no lights left on everything works fine I don't get it!

I have a 2009 LR2 and I am on my third battery. If I leave the car more than 2 days I need to call AAA to jump start it. It is absolutely ridiculous since I have taken the car to my mechanic, and every time he proposes something different, I leave with a large bill and the problem is still there. Land Rover denies having any issues. When I called they claimed they never heard of such thing, they suggested to take it to my dealership to have it checked out and of course since the warranty is over I am on my own. I bought cable wires for emergencies and this time the battery was so dead that even AAA had to sent a second larger car to jump it. FYI the battery tested fine.

Hi GeorgiaH it was the alternator for me I just have another issue now where the break goes rock hard after 2 nights and I have to push it really hard to then start it. Have u had the alternator changed? Mark

Good deal yeah i think the same thing alternator but it hard to get it to drain it sat for 8 days this week no problems arise at all.. started right up.. but when it gets cold it goes dead? Just put a new orilleys battery july-2016 the best one $350.00 Could be the diodes get cold & make Drain continuity? Idk.. need some liquid nitrogen..lol

Best bet is let an auto electrician look at it they will tell you straight away if it's the alternator. Mark

What worked for me I have 2009 LR2 and experienced the same problem. Every time I leave it for few days, I come back to a dead battery. I tried to to turn off the radio, turn the lights to off instead of auto, and unpaired my phone but nothing worked. I found an article online that someone associated the battery drain with the programming of the FOB. The manufacturer has the remote key setup for single-point entry. If you press once on the unlock, it unlocks the driver door only. you need to hit it twice to unlock all doors. If that setup is modified to multi-point entry where you hit the unlock once to unlock all doors, then this caused battery drain. Sure enough, I reverted back the setting on my remote control to a single point entry, then had to leave town to a conference for 5 days, and when I came back, the car started fine. So whether this was by chance, or if it really fixed the problem, I don't know. I will confirm this next time I leave town but if is worth trying. To turn the single/multi-point entry feature on/off: unlock the vehicle then simultaneously press and hold the lock and unlock buttons for three seconds. The vehicle will lock and then unlock in the currently selected mode and the hazard warning lamps will flash twice to confirm the change. Repeating the procedure will reverse it.

Sc2009, My 2010 LR2 is and has been set to single point entry and I have been having this same battery drain issue. So I don't think that is the issue.

Benimel, I totally agree, my LR 2 has been single entry since purchase and I am going on my 4th battery after 61,000 miles. That's unacceptable!!

Left for 10 days the past 2 Christmas's with 2009 LR2 in garage. New battery just 6 weeks ago. AAA could not jump start both times and had to tow it. Now on my 3rd battery. Surprised to see this is a common issue.

I reviewed the Land Rover recalls on their website and there is no mention of battery drain issues. Please register your complaints onto the National Traffic Safey Administration website. nhtsa.gov. Maybe we can get something done about this. I see that there are rear differential issues with this vehicle as well with NHTSA and I am now totally upset and freaked out. Land Rover should support their vehicles!!!!

BTW... my LR 2 battery died again last week and I had to jump it with my handy Jump and Carry device and take it to my local LR dealership...battery #4.. uggh! I am doubtful..as my service advisor suggested a new Discovery Sport...just like my last advisor when my 2002 gave me issues.

Yes, I feel your pain. There must be some huge communication disconnect with the battery issue. I believe it to be VERY well documented among LR/RR owners, but the company and the dealerships are clueless. I discussed it with a service advisor and the branch manager in Salt Lake City and they looked at me like I was from Mars. No knowledge of the problem, the suit, or any battery issue of any kind. Based on my personal opinion and reflecting on others findings, I have reason to believe the drain originates in the main computer as some type of firmware glitch. It's not tied to a fuse block or panel, it affects nearly every 2007-2012 vehicle, and it would be VERY expensive to correct. Regarding the rear differential issue, I researched that one as well. It appears there is a pinion bearing in the diff that may have been heat treated incorrectly that creates spalling, or pitted deterioration of the bearing race starting at around 70,000 miles. As it breaks down, the metal chips in the oil accelerate damage, resulting in bearing failure. Dealer repair cost is around $4k, but there is at least one company that sells a rebuilt diff case with new guts for ~$1,300. You remove yours, send them the core, and they send you the new one. Probably the best and easiest for DIY mechanics, since doing the bearing replacement yourself is way, way beyond the scope of any home mechanic. I learned about it when my LR2 had 68k miles and had no bearing noises. I simply vacuumed out the old diff oil very thoroughly with a suction pump (no drain plug) and replaced it with a very high quality oil like Royal Purple. I'm at 86k and all's good. Funny that the service manual doesn't say to even check it until 150k. I think we can revise those service intervals on a few things. If you don't have bearing noises under the back seat center, replace the gear oil ASAP. Also, check the old oil for metal flakes--if not present then good, and change the oil more often (10-15k). Do you have a LR repair manual? There is one out there online in one of the forums.

Hi Bandicay49. I do not have a LR 2 repair manual and should not have to have one as an average consumer. I'm a female and I do not work on cars but I have common sense to know what is going on with this vehicle. My LR service advisor called me today after 5 days of having my vehicle and said that he found the satellite radio to be the problem (haha reported here on this thread as well) and told me that I need to pay for them to bypass the satellite radio option. He agreed that they battery would be replaced at no cost as the current one died in less than a year! I totally disagree about paying for them to bypass the satellite radio system (never used) BTW and to think that's a fix is unbelievable to me. Why are they not standing behind their vehicles and taking ownership for their problems?? I am calling Land Rover corporate tomorrow. I will also address the rear differential problem with them as well.

Haven't had time to troubleshoot the parasitic battery drain however I did a quick workaround fix by installing a remote control battery disconnect that also works as an anti-theft device. It works well and I do not have to reprogram radio when battery is remotely disconnected for security. Got it off of e-bay for $34.49 on auction. Buy it now price is approximately $49. Link for auction listing is below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Remote-Control-Battery- Switch-Disconnect-Anti-theft-DC-12V-Master-Kill/172489189355? _trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%2 6algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40832%26meid%3D cc58425d73ae4d69bcf9e9c4738cdcec%26pid%3D100011%26rk %3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172475853093 Now if I can figure out how to reset left side passenger and left side rear windows I'll be good. Reset instructions I've seen on internet don't work. Window problems existed before remote battery reset solution. Do any of you guys have a solution for 2011 Land Rover window reset?

Try this from dealer information! Works great! Did for me..

I picked up an 08 LR2 with 109k a couple months ago. Battery was dead the second day. Jumped it, drove it and when I got home I heard a weird, feint whining noise in the rear of the engine compartment that persisted all night to kill the battery, along with it, the shift indicator lights in the center console stayed on 100% of the time. I found nothing on the forums, so I went old school. It turned out to be a stuck relay in the power distribution box under the hood. I pulled them one by one till the whining stopped. Bought a replacement relay for a few bucks and haven't had an issue with that since. Don't expect this will surely help anyone here, but great if it does!

Purchased a 2009 LR2 years ago, what a nightmare. Constant dead batteries if I leave it 1.5 days or more. What a drag to come home from a vaca and having to call AAA each time. Or stranded at work 30 min away. Besides paying for multiple new batteries... Latest was a new alternator, starter, oh yea don't forget to mention the rear diff that's been annoyingly loud since 75k miles. It's a lose-lose situation. Dealership keeps trying to sell me on "this may fix the problem... won't know until we try... no guarantees". Must get rid of this unreliable POS.

It is of some comfort to know it is not just me or my LR2. My 2010 LR2 has been through 8 batteries. Two to three days without driving it and the battery is dead. Land Rover USA and the dealership have both been somewhat helpful but unable to fix the problem. I have been a number if different reason why the battery is draining; I don't drive it enough (trying to make me the problem); the blue tooth is the problem; tried updating the system, nothing solved the problem. What makes me really angry is that Land Rover is aware that the LR2 has this problem but pretends that it is unaware of any issues with the battery that it is only my car that has the problem and it must be my fault. For this reason I would never again buy a Land Rover product.

2009 Land Rover LR2, here, Going on my 4th battery in as many years. Like others I've heard it all - don't drive enough, must have left something on, Bluetooth issue. I urge anyone with problems to contact the legal firm handling the class action suit as we need to unite. I googled firm (Nagel Rice, LLP 103 Eisenhower Parkway Roseland, New Jersey 07068) and sent them message and was contacted by attorney for my story records etc. Cant even get rid of this car as value has dropped so much since so many know about the problem. Very depressing

I have a 2009 Land Rover LR2. And I am on my 3rd battery. I have owned it now for 30,000 miles (it currently has 65,000 miles). Got it used at 35,000 miles. Have spent a lot of money on repairs for the battery drain issue. By a stroke of luck happened on this website. Will contact the lawyer listed above.We must unite. Good luck to all of you! (And me) Donna

land rover drain i.am a auto elec been doing some test on battery drain [ flat in 2 days] found main e c u problem draining 0.36 amps romove speedo & e c u fuse from main fuse box drain drops to 0.02 which would expect on any vehical . 0.36 is way to high what is L R doing about it .been auto elec for over 42 years bob marshall

Interesting GuruZQF2N! 2010 LR2 owner here, we've been dealing with the battery drain issue for a few years now. When we don't drive the vehicle for a couple days, a dead battery is almost always guaranteed. We have also been experiencing the vehicles alarm randomly going off and a hood open warning message. I just learned the faulty hood latch sensor is another known issue for LR vehicles. The sensor sets off the alarm thinking there is unauthorized access attempt to the engine compartment. So I replaced my hood latch/sensor ($41 part) today, fingers crossed that resolves the random alarm issue. My question is could a faulty hood sensor be keeping the ECU awake thus draining the battery?

I've been thru 6 batteries in 5 years. Land rover dealership has looked at everything and they can't find and answer. The culprit was thought to be the bluetooth, constantantly looking to connect, But they did that update 2 batteries ago, so obviously that wasn't the problem. I urge everyone with this problem to contact zgoldman@nagelrice.com with your battery drain issues,(they are handling the class action law suit regarding this problem, so the more people we get , hopefully the more power we have. Sick over this whole situation.

I have a 2007 LR (which is similar to the 2008 LR2). I am from the UK, and so is my car, and I have also had issues and replaced many batteries. I had a couple of occasions where the RAC assist told me that something wasn't turning off properly and draining the battery. Next issues were the doors stopped locking/opening. I was told that there was probably an issue with the wiring. A couple of batteries later the ECU stopped working and it took the garage (in contact with Land Rover) some weeks to decide that it was both the wiring and ECU. This was only done this year. Both were fixed allegedly, but I then needed to replace door catches as they didn't lock every time. I have brought my car to Canada and it again needs a battery. My key is not ejecting properly but I know how to get it out and switch off the system. I have just found this forum and can't believe its so common! Shame on Land Rover!

Last December after installing my 4th battery in as many years, my dealership bypassed the XM radio, stating that it “might” be the problem. I decided to sell my 2010 LR 2 this October because I could feel I would be going down the replace my battery mode by December. I completely gave up and purchased a 2018 Mercedes GLC300. I will miss my LR but not the problem....it only had 69,000 miles on it. We’ll see how my new GLC does.

Yes this car is a giant POS. My 2009 LR2 rear dif. went out had to have it replaced was covered by my extended warranty less my deductible. Emerg. brakes rotted. Hood latch kept going off again replaced and covered under warranty, however as of late it is aging doing it. I have to open and close the hood several times to make sure it goes off. Rear hatch kept unlocking while I drove, (that was fun) and yes last but not least the battery drain. The only solution i have on that BS issue is to buy a $50 battery maintainer and keep it plugged into your house. That will keep it from dying. The newest issue I have, are both key fobs went dead. I just ordered a new battery on amazon, im going to pry it apart and hopefully sadder the new one in. Honestly you could not give me a LR for free... I will never buy one ever again. The bitch in the customer service dept. was rude, and very Accusational.. For a supposed luxury vehicle they don't treat their customers well.

Anyone dealing with the battery drain issue should call Nagel Rice 973-618-0400. They are in the discovery phase of a class action lawsuit related to this exact problem. I have had the same issue and my car is currently being towed to a Land Rover dealership to be looked at for a battery drain for the second time in 6 weeks. I called Nagel Rice and spoke with an attorney who took all my information and filled me in on the process. Its worth the call if you are experiencing the same problem.

I've owned many cars. The 2010 LR2 was absolutely the worst car I've ever owned. I had the battery drain problem, the rear differential failure, you name it. One dealership actually fixed the battery drain problem that they said was caused by the Bluetooth not turning off. It worked for about a month, then the problem came back, never having used the bluetooth again in the hope of keeping the problem at bay. The solution is to get rid of your land rover, and never look back. Just a pathetic car and an embarrassing company.

Has anyone tried to replace the secondary battery on the right side? Like Mercedes landrover has 2 batteries left side the main battery and right side for electrical components like the dash etc. So aside from jumping your car your dash may be out or your alerts are malfunctioning then you need to address the right side. https://m.youtube.com/watch? v=vj9cWabg2TM&feature=share

Guru, could the secondary battery be causing the issue of the car constantly dying? Our dealer has checked the main battery several times and keep telling us it is fine; there is no excessive draw.

I just wanted to inform you all that Land Rover has finally fessed up, and admitted that the tailgate switch can be the root cause of the battery drain issue. Water gets in the switch, and causes the electrical coil to remain activated, draining the battery. There's a recall on the tailgate switch. I'm getting it replaced next week.

Thanks for the info, George. How did you hear about the recall? Searching online shows no results...

Please send info on the tailgate switch recall because I son't see it either on any websites as recalls.

by battery maintainer at Walmart for $40.

this battery maintainer will also charge your battery too.

Hi, I agree that information is scarce online. I also couldn’t find much, that’s why I was surprised when the dealership finally fessed up to it. They basically told me, when I complained about my battery drain issue, that the root cause according to Land Rover Canada, is a faulty tailgate switch that remains on. The reason it becomes faulty is because water gets into it and shorts the solenoid. Update: since my last post, I have put in a new battery and replaced the switch. I have had no more issues with battery drain, and it has hit -20 Celsius since then… No issues.

With my Land Rover, my long standing battery drain problem ended, once I began to shut down bluetooth before turning engine off. Bluetooth was draining battery when vehicle was not in use. I now have no doubt that these matters are related.

We've owned a 2012 LR2 for 18 months. The previous owner didn't say anything about having battery problems...and we never thought anything about it. This will be the third battery since buying it. We had to have the car towed the second time. I just read where the judge reconsidered and allowed the fraud charge to stand after internal documents were found to back up claims they knew there was a problem.

We bought a 2012 LR2 18 months ago. This will be the 3rd battery in 18 months. Just did research and found the judge reconsidered and allowed the fraud charge to STAND as internal documents were found to prove they KNEW there was a problem and hid it from consumers and current owners.

Same problem 2008 LR2 Since i bought it. I stopped taking it to the dealership because they were so expensive. I just disconnected all bluetooth from vehicle. We'll see if that works.

The satellite radio feed mentioned in a post above is the same reason my dealer told me when I was in last and complained about a low battery... going to have them terminate the satellite radio next time it’s in the shop and I’ll report back...

Have a 2009 Landrover LR2 and at 50,000 miles the alternator went out, the starter went out and the a/c compressor went out. Put all new and compressor will not engage and battery always dies and this is 3rd battery.

We have been having the parasitic battery drain problem on our 2010 LR2 for several years (battery dead after not driving it for a day or two). We have replaced batteries, done extensive troubleshooting and ultimately had to purchase a charger so we could start our Land Rover when we found the battery was dead on many mornings. Finally our mechanic was able to confirm there is a 500milliamp draw on the battery when the vehicle is off. They were able to reduce the draw to 60milliamps by turning off ALL AUTOMATIC FEATURES before turning off the car (auto climate control, auto headlights, auto windshield wipers, auto Bluetooth connect) and being sure to LOCK THE VEHICLE. By doing these things our LR2 has started reliably for a week now. Apparently the auto features and leaving the car unlocked keeps the computer from going into standby mode which means it's constantly drawing 500milliamps while parked overnight, killing the battery. I'm so curious if this solution works for others. Please let me know!! I am cautiously optimistic that we can rely on our LR2 again.

I've just brought my 2008 about one year ago,about a week ago the battery started to die.

Russell, try turning off all automatic features before turning off your LR2 (climate control, headlights, Bluetooth connect, windshield wipers) and be sure to lock the vehicle after. We have not had this issue since following these steps. Apparently one or all of these features is preventing the lr2 computer from going into 'sleep' mode and drains the battery. Please let me know if it helps and if anyone else finds this solution effective! We were dealing with dying battery for a year before finding this solution worked for us. Good luck!

Hi thanks Russell ... and everyone for all your input and it’s all good info for bad problems ... I am having problem with an engine miss on my 2008 td4 248.000 on the clock ... the miss is at 1700 rpm under small amount of load on a slight incline ... new battery has improved it slightly as old one sounded tied .. and yes have I have a voltage leak .. about 3amp .. have left it over night to zero the amps then connect in morning to see .. I am doing this to Zero computer .. to see if it helps with the miss ... that’s work in progress ... changed all oils 5 times every 8000 kls to clean out running gear and new Haldex happened at 218.000 kls a bang and crunch stopped the LR and pull the fuse on the Haldex ... bit weird two wheel traction ... but only had to wait for two weeks ... its turned into a hobby now .. sorry that I am not much help .. oh yess I have also fitted new locks to both from doors ... fly by wire throttle pedal with sensor ... throttle body ... power steer pump and filter ... filter had a problem strainer it was to high inside the filter body and caused air bubbles inside the filter sounded like pump had - had enough ... but it was new ... lucky I got two filters as one was the old one and no good and the other one was the upgrade ... just share luck I noticed ... Thanks to all .. lots to digest regarding all the information ... regards terry Auckland NZ

I don't known if its tailgate switch, I didnt have problem until the tire pressure module system came on.

I suddenly got a battery drain, It began the day after I took the car, LR2 2008, to be jet washed. I live in Spain it is usually pretty dry. I am hopeful that tailgate switch is the issue. Will report when switch is replaced.

I have a 2008 randrover HSE ,was having same problem I cut everything off have not had that problem sent.

Guruh3mper, did that manage to fix the issue? Replacing the tailgate solenoid switch?!

Yes, the battery drain is sorted. Now need to resolve the (becoming more frequent) intermittent starting problem. I have been told that it could be the contacts In the starter motor solenoid. Apparently the ones used are not of great quality.

Can confirm replacing our starter resolved ongoing battery drain issue.

Thank you for the prompt replies, Ive just bought a fluke multimeter to check current been drawn when the car is off. Was going to start taking fuses out until I found the drain. Now I'll start straight away on the starter. With regards to the battery always dying after a day has anyone experienced dash not lighting up and some signals not working too once the car has been jumped and running? Again thank you for the replies. Kind regards

Our understanding is that if you try to start the car when the battery is below a certain amperage it goes into some kind of preservation mode and the computer needs to be reset at the mechanic to get everything rebooted properly. Maybe that's what you are referring to?

Hi, I have just bought a 2006 LR2. I found it had a battery drain issue which the seller neglected to tell me about. I took it to my local garage for investigation, after a week of searching the problem was found to be an o/s rear centra locking issue. The fuse has been removed and this has solved the problem. The door has to be locked and unlocked manually now till I can get it looked at properly but this isn’t an issue.

I have the same problem. Did a draw test, found a battery draw of .240 amps with vehicle unlocked. When vehicle is locked, the draw goes to .0008 amps. Thats good. In our case, the key fob battery is dead, so we just leave it unlocked. Now i have ordered some new batteries that i will have to solder in the key fobs. The dealer wants 500 bucks for a new remote and program. Hope this helps someone. I did order a new rear latch too. A car shouldnt have a draw just bc its unlocked.

I have a 2016 Discovery Land Rover with 20,000 miles on it and the battery dies every couple of days. Land Rover suggests replacing the battery and does nothing else. My car is on battery 3 and it continues to have a dead battery if it sits for more than 24 hours without being driven. These people at Land Rover are the worst!

Think I have found the problem..... remove passenger side wing mirror glass, remove wires for heated mirror off the back and test with the car off and locked. Mine was still pulling power from the battery even though the car was locked and off completely. I have just removed the wires and now have no problems with battery drain......

I have a 2008 range rover sport found the battery drain fault it was the upper tailgate switch faulty that was causing a drain on the battery mine was partly seized up un seized no battery drain now for 4 months

i had the same problem, used to drain every two days or so. I spoke to a friend in RAC he said the hedgehog resistor, left of the brake pedal ( RHD)behind a small piece of trim by heater. one philips screw (and aluminium block with spikes and some leads coming out) pull out and plug in new one £16 on ebay in 2014ish sorted mine 1st time.

I found out the problem I have 2006 Range Rover HSE an my battery kept dieing I found out the battery supposed to have a battery terminal if the truck not getting the right concurrent from the battery it will pop up hdc fault transmission problems all kinds of problems just because my battery wasn’t getting the right concurrent. So don’t change your battery it’s the battery terminal the negative is grounded the positive has to connect to the battery terminal an then connect to the battery

2008 LR2 replaced the switch in the tailgate a few years ago and fixed the battery drain concern. Somehow the switch gets rusty and has a slow contact drain but doesn't affect the door solenoid.

I found the same issue in my 04 Range Rover HSE ! I had a issue with my Air suspension, and had that fixed , come to find out the compressor can run 24 hrs if the pressure gets low it turns on to lift and balance the truck. May have a small air leak somewhere and at night the compressor is trying to level the car over and over and thus drain the battery.

Hi all, just got a 2008 HSE with all the electrical gremlins (battery drain, air suspension warnings etc etc) The car came with a secondary key fob that I was told was an aftermarket immobilizer. My battery drained overnight so popped the bonnet and saw that the wiring for this secondary immobilizer was attached straight to the battery terminals pretty crudely. After buying a new battery like we all do, I have realised that the second fob shuts the car down completely - no drain. Looks very cheap to do, Ebay sells them. I am no auto electrician but seems like an easy job. It just means I have to press 2 fobs getting in & out of the car, but better that than getting the jump leads out AGAIN! Hope this helps someone.

Same problem. 2-3 days of the car sitting and the battery was dead. This is with a new battery and alternator. I read a bunch of these posts and found a reoccurring issue. The satellite radio. People said that dealerships were charging $100+ to "bypass" it for them. I figured out where the satellite radio module is and disconnected the antennae (not the power). The car has started every time for over a month...in the winter. Problem solved.

Hi Folks. The same problem as everyone else. My rear wiper has also stopped working, so I took it off - and look what I found! Full of rusty brown water. So I'm ordering a new part. I'm not certain this is the cause of my battery drain problem, but it's a good candidate. It's also just above the tailgate switch, which you have identified as a problem, and which had failed on my car, the last time I had the battery problem. If my wiper motor was full of water, it might be something for other people to look at? It's quite an easy job to get thing off. Took me about 1/2 an hour. Cheers. Andrew

Thank you all so much, my head is spinning, because it looks like every problem creates a battery drain!!! I had a faulty water pump, then the battery drain, who knows which answer will fix mine, but I will keep you posted. I do, however, think that LR should pay us for all the time and effort it took us to research and fix our own vehicles, because they were too cheap to recall ANYTHING! Thank you all! I WISH someone WOULD ask me if I wanted to buy another LR made by FORD or TATA MOTORS, I would break their knee and WALK OFF!!!!!

I've had the issues with the battery that everyone else has, I'm on my 3rd battery now in as many year. One thing that was brought to my attention though, was that the Landrover spec for the Freelander 2 LR2 for the battery is 80Ah and 700CCA. If you ask most people they say that a type 096 battery is the correct replacement, but most 096s that you can buy don't meet this spec. My last one was 74Ah and 640CCA, and I had it 2 years before it died, but it wasn't trouble free because I had to charge it sometimes just as others have said, it was slow to turn over. I was told that I wouldn't notice the difference initially but because the battery was below spec, the current draw taken on starting, would eventually cause the battery to fail early and to lose capacity. I've changed now to a type 115 which has 90AH and 800CCA, and although I haven't had it long enough to say if it's fixed the problem - for sure it turns the engine over much quicker. The type 115 is larger physically but still fits the tray fine. Good Luck

Make sure to lock the doors every night. If you don't the car never enters sleep mode and drains the battery.