Rear view camera fail. I get a "Camera not available" message on my info screen every time I shift into reverse, thoughts???

could be a bad cable try removing your trunk inside cover and checking hte wires your self.

Did they figure out the roots cause. Same thing is happening to my vehicle.

No, no corrective action yet. Car is going in for service tonight, might have more news tomorrow. I removed the trunk lining and there was no visible defect, fyi. Best guess from the techs right now is a broken fiber-optic cable, which is $$$ to repair due to the labor hours in replacing it.

I have the same problem with my 2012 CC, the reverse camera don't work - it shows on the screen that "it is not available"- any solutions pls?

there has been a lot of controversy about it but i don't really think there has been a solution. i have seen a few posts and some people have literally replaced everything possible and a few times at that. seems there is not really a fix for the issue. The best thing you can do is just keep at them and keep getting them to replace stuff under their warranty.

My car spent 10 days of the past 14 in the dealership and still have the same problem, with that exact message. I have a 2014 Passat with the 6spd manual gearbox, Diesel. And get "Camera Not Available" They told me I was nuts till I had video of it

My name is Stephen, sorry nut sure why it said GURU above... :)

I've seen people talk about this issue before. I had a rental once that would do the same thing. Often shifting the car back into anouther gear other then reverse and then back again toreverse again. I personaly think its an issue with the the shifter switch. I have seen people have this issue before as well and replace everything from the camera to the wires and even the stereo and not resolve the issue. Try going to the parts department and ask for them to bring up the parts diagram for the camera system and print it out. you can liekly do your own trouble shooting at this point. and make sure the camera is actuly poping open when you put the car in reverse.

My screen was black as well on reversing. I demounted the VW logo toghether with the camera and took it home to reconnect the broken cable. It was difficult since the cable was cut exactly on it's way into the camera...had to do some patents to reconnect it...let's see how long it lasts then...

The problem---On my 2012 cc, first the back camera 'not available' reading appeared. Slamming the trunk hard occasionally got it working; then didn't. Next the trunk openers failed. I fed a line from the panic handle in the trunk through to the cabin, so at least I could open it. The cause of both failures--On the drivers side where the wiring exits the lower end of the trunk lid hinge behind the trunk liner there is a design fault. This being inadequate length of harness between the fixed connectors and the hinge to provide adequate flexibility to prevent the wiring insulation from cracking at entry to the hinge due to frequent flexing, perhaps exacerbated by winter temperatures. So I found bare and broken wires at the hinge entry point. The new harness that I just installed has a greater length in this critical portion and should therefore last longer. The openers work and the camera VW Emblem opens over the camera. But still get 'camera unavailable'. I have learned from two local mechanics that there is normal because without the use of complex VW equipment, the camera will not work after it has been unplugged and replugged . I am told that I have to go to a VW garage. I was prematurely chuffed at avoiding the VW labor cost by doing the simple task of replacing the trunk lid harness myself. But now I'll have to open my wallet wide!

why don'tyou jsut disconect it and get an after market one ? Install the camera into the area where the old one is or on the plate and it hooks up to the mirrior. you can pickup a cheap good one for maybe 100$ and it will always work ..

My used 2012 Tiguan from the dealer had an aftermarket camera that used to work fine. Had a rear quarter panel fixed and since doesn’t work. Not sure if ther is a connection but I replaced the camera and left the harness since it was quite a bit more involved. The wires went down the harness boot at the door hinge, so it didn’t appear to have been bothered by any fender work. Anyway the new camera doesn’t work either. No error message, just a black screen. Help!

where is your camera plugged into for a power source ? its more then likely had the fuse blown is there by chance a fuse box attached to that fender ? its possible they disconnected some wires and missed them.

1. If the message "rear camera not available" appears ,then one of the two wire (pink/white and red/white) on right side is interrupted and does not reach 12v on the rear camera. 2. If you have replaced the broken wires but still do not operate the flap for the open trunk compartment (only with remote control or the driver's door button) and do not raise the flap when switching in reverse and the camera does not come out, then the "S51" fuse, hiding well behind the fuse box left of the dashboard. Access to it is through the small compartment beneath the light switch (which can be tipped to the bottom if it releases the clamps from its splines) and where there is a relay and fuse box depending on the version of the car. Behind the thread section leading to the fuse box above, the hidden view is a "S51" fuse that is burnt due to short circuits between the broken wires in the trunk.

s51 fuse loction ?

@동석 .... Under the light switch, to the left of the steering wheel (left-hand steering wheel) or right (steering wheel on the right), and below it is a small compartment. Behind it is S51 fuse

Heard if you jumpstart or recieved a jump it will fry your optical parking system (backup cam) so we are fuc&$%

WE HAVE FERFIED AND WAS SAFE 15 DESTROYED THANKS FOR SOLVING MANY GREETINGS FROM GERMANY INGOLSTADT

Found the camera and wiper did not work when the gate was closed but only halfway closed. I still needed to lift the latch to open the rear gate and there was no warning on the dash that the gate was open. Don't know yet if it has one. The latch had to be fully closed to get the camera and wiper to work.

I have the same problem with a 2010 CC. I found the local VW Dealer to be of no help and to be unequipped to properly troubleshoot the problem after the presented me with a bill for diagnostics in excess of $500 then could not tell me which module or cable had failed. The technician told me that he had contacted VW Tech support and the suggested that they swap out the module with a known good module. They did not have a good module and the service manager refused to buy one. I offered to pay for a module to try, with the restriction being that if that was not the problem, the dealer would not charge me for it. The dealer refused. This dealer is supposed to be one of the top five dealers in the country. They and VW America have failed me. VW America just referred me back to the dealer. They don't see the issue. I was able to get the dealer to reduce the charges to half of what they were. Which is still inexcusable for diagnostics that did not find the problem. The dealership does not even own the proper test equipment to diagnose these problems.

@tclabonte Please read the answer and the solution for your problem above. Stop wasting time and money especially for problems like this because the workshop people will try and test on your time and money and not sure they will find the solution. So, regardless of the VW model, the problems with the camera or the closing badge of the rear bonnet are due to the interruption of the electrical connections between the body of the car and the rear hood. In many cases this leads to the burning of the fuse and after the replacement of the interrupted wires it is necessary to replace the fuse.

Can you please show us a picture of where S51 Fuse is located on a 2010 Passat CC Thanks

Well, I placed the car into reverse with the parking brake on. I can see that the Badge does lift and the camera is visible. I repeated the process repeatedly and found that the badge lifts and the camera is visible each time. This would lead me to believe that the fuses are fine and power is available to the camera.I am now chasing around the used parts market to see if a camera control module can be had. Thank you for your input. I will continue to monitor this site and if I ever crack this nut, I will let you know what I find.

Ok, these are good news if the badge operates and the camera comes out Result: it is true that the safety is hidden under the light block, the famous "S51 is not burned. you look at my comment above where I put pictures, the 2 wires, (+ 12V and -12V) the purple and white wire are interrupted, one or both of them. I put the picture after replacing both wire so they can be seen in brown and blue, original image they are purple and white. If they are interrupted (and I am convinced they are), everything just works so that you will not have an image on the reverse camera. With a measuring device you can check their continuity from under the hood to the trunk. I suggest you replace both wires.

Same thing happens to me. I put the car in reverse and a black screen pops up on my RNS510. Been to an electrian who had fixed the frayed wiring on the boot harness, the latch does lift and camera is visible but still no picture on the screen. Bit stuck now on what to do from here. Any ideas anybody?

@Guru1R3DX It must be checked whether voltage reaches the two wires leading to the rear camera. If there is 12v (+ and -) when the camera is out then the camera may be defective (I consider this below 1% feasibility) Also the video conversion module between the camera and the RNS I do not think it has problems.... 99% I am sure that either the camera is not powered or the video signal cable is not connected. The supply voltage to the hood on the hood (pictures from previous posts) and the video cable connection must be carefully checked. The electrician may have solved one problem and created another by accident or mistake.

Hi Guys, I have VW CC 2013, Video signal while in reverse are really bad as per the photo attached. I bought a new camera to check if its camera issue but its still the same. Can anybody give me more suggestions on what could it be? Fuse?

I don't think it's fuse, because if it wasn't, the rear camera didn't work at all. Most likely the video conversion module or even the RNS has some problems. I would start by checking the video cable under the hood and up to the video module in the rear right wing of the car. If it is not interrupted then the video or RNS module has problems. Personally I think there are possible causes: 70% video cable, 25% -RNS and 5% video module.

Thanks Shuvei, I will check through the cables in the rear right wing. Will take the rns out and check the video cable connection aswell. Will update if that resolves the issue.

@shuvei Thanks for answer i will check video cable leading to camera. I have attached picture of whag displays on RNS510

@shuvei also attached picture of flip badge on camera. Where can i get replacement cable? Is it this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FAKRA-HSD- Cable-LVDS-Vehicle-Shielded-Dacar-for-BMW-Benz- Audi-VW-BLUE/303242134762? hash=item469aa3c4ea:g:AfUAAOSwlmxdPEah

@Guru1R3DX Do not search for cables on ebay until you see if the camera receives 12v dc on the two white and pink wires. The symptom is that the rear camera does not receive voltage and this is because 99.99% of the two wires are interrupted. For verification, proceed as follows: - Open the rear hood and with a screwdriver then close the lock (as if closing the hood) If you do not simulate the closed hood will not come out the rear camera(the badge don't flip), so the lock must be closed but with the hood open to have access to the interior and wiring - Put the ignition (without starting the engine) and put the lever in reverse - Go back and check with a measuring (voltmetter) device that you have 12v DC on the two wires, pink and white (see the attached image). If you do not (and certainly do not think you have) pull two insulated wires through the hinge tube from the bonnet, in parallel with the existing wiring, cut the interrupted (pink and white) wires at both ends (up at the hood and down in the boot and glue them in place. Of course, do the replacement operation with the engine stopped and without contact.

I have tried checking all the cables, nothing seem to fix the lines on my reverse camera display as photo above. Any other solutions?

I have same problem with VW CC 2014, message pops out while reverse gear “Rear view camera is not available” my Volkswagen deals had done complete electric diagnosis $170.00 and identified problem is Rear view camera module to be replaced and quoted $1050.00. Kindly suggest best solution either going with above said solution. Or any other alternative. I want this to be working back.

First of all, the diagnosis made with the tester (VAG-COM) does not indicate the problem for which the camera does not work, the diagnosis can say at most that it does not work, without indicating the cause ... this because in the absence of the supply voltage of the camera its module does not can be queried by the tester. I think it's a trick here and someone wants to make easy money (a scan on the tester costs on average approx. $ 40) ... My opinion: go to an independent electrician, one without big claims, company, brand and ask him to check your voltage. 12v what supplies the camera. (print the pictures posted by me and show them where to check) If there is no 12v (see my previous descriptions) the wiring and fuse should be checked to supply the camera (fuse S51 under dashboard) ... Probability below 1% to be defective the module of the camera/badge ...

I checked cables, through trunk right wing all the way to camera, no luck . Still shows same image as uploaded above (with distorted lines). One thing i have noticed is, when it rains, the screen goes white on reverse and after rain it comes back to distorted lines and bad image. Does that help in identifying the problem?

@Hassan1234.....The fact that the image on the display changes depending on the weather state clearly indicates that the moisture / water reaches where the insulation is poor. When I checked the wiring / wires between the hood and the boot they visually appeared ok but they were interrupted and in a short circuit. So do not be fooled that it looks good, however it may have insulation problems and interruptions, in your case the water makes a resistive connection somewhere where the insulation is bad. It is enough to be 0.05mm surface and not see with the naked eye. My opinion: It replaces all the wires that lead from the trunk through the hood pipe but starts with the ones referring to the camera: the two 12v power supplies and the coaxial signal cable.

The cable problem

Im trying to put a reverse camera on Passat 2014 estate and can anyone tell me what colour is the reverse light wire. Many thanks in advance

@Adam0001 I understand that you want to mount an aftermarket camera and you need voltage from the reverse bulb and you do not know what is the wire to take this voltage ... well, you need a measuring device, put the contact (without start the engine) and put the lever in reverse .. after you go in the back and look for the wires that lead to the lamps rear lights on which you have + 12v wires. If you have access to the reverse bulb, it is better that you only have 2 wires to check, the ground and + 12v. After identifying the wire with + 12v check if the voltage disappears when removing the lever from the reverse to be sure that this is the good wire. As I said, it is easier if you give one of the rear lamps (where is located the bulb for the reverse) and identify the exact wires that lead to the bulb, in addition you have access to its bulb where you can measure and identify the desired wire without intervening on the insulation to measure.

Thanks so much for your quick response and for your advice.

@Shuvei... Thank you for posting this solution. I found the cables on both sides of the boot were broken causing the camera not to work. The camera would pop out but I had no picture on the screen and the display message that the camera was not available. I checked for voltage on the wires as you suggested and there was no power. I traced the wires back to the connector and when i went to unplug the connector to check voltage there, the two wires literally fell out of the end of the wiring loom as they were broken. I have reconnected with new wiring and the camera now works perfectly.

@Incasun...I'm glad to hear that I was helpful and that you solved the problem yourself.

@shuvei i have replaced the wiring harness that leads from the camera to the camera module and still same symptoms occur, i have replaced the camera module previously with same results and replaced the camera unit also. I am a bit stumped as to where to go from here

@shuvei the wiring harness for the left hand side of the boot has been repaired, all the lights works at the rear of trunk and reverse light, should i replace this harness also??

@ Guru1R3DX Did you change the wires on the right or left? you have to change the wires on the left side, on the passenger side, and usually the two wires, replaced, the white one and the pink one from the picture attached by me above must be changed ... You have no video signal at the RNS because (99%) the camera does not receive voltage (interrupted wires) on the two wires: white and pink (+/- 12v) ... There is voltage only if the contact is put, the back cover closed and the lever in reverse position. simulate, for measuring "closed hood" with the help of a screwdriver lock latch from the hood when it is open to access the wires you can perform measurements. Tell me if you have voltage there, as in the pictures attached above.

@shuvei I changed the harness on the drivers side

I have a few "hints" for everyone who wants to be helped with tips and ideas for solving problems of any kind. - try to provide as much detail as possible about the defect from the beginning and everyone will save time - if you receive directions, advice, to check, to measure, etc. try to put them into practice, only then you come back with questions, never ask without bringing new data, no one has a crystal globe to guess the truth and without a detailed description no one can help you - specify the type of car, e.g. left or right steering wheel, diesel, etc. - "I have a car and the engine does not start" can have 1000 causes, without other indications nobody can identify anything.

I dont get it. Are there cables on both sides of the boot, right and left? Or is it just the white and pink that needs to be changed if interruped? Because my badge pops out but there is no image and i get the text i the display that the camera is not available

I have a similar problem with the rear view camera on my 2010 CC, but not exactly the same. I do NOT get a camera not found message and the parking guidelines appear on the display. However, the camera view is sometimes black and sometimes appears to be pointed down at the bumber as if the emblem is not opening fully. In fact I had my wife look and it does not open when the display is black. The odd part is if I just turn the ignition on without starting the engine and then shift to R, it works fine. I have pulled the inside of the trunk and sidewall covering and the harness looks fine visually. I also checked ever fuse in the car although I could not locate the S51 fuse mentioned earlier in the thread. The fact that it works when the engine is not running would seem to indicate the fuses and wiring are fine. I also tried rebooting the radio as recommended above. Nothing has changed.

@Tommy The rear hood has wires on both sides. On the driver's side (left steering wheel) are the connections to the rear lamps, and on the RIGHT are those for the rear camera. So, on the RIGHTt side (passenger side), you have ONLY 4 wires: 2 wires (pink and white) that power the camera, then a coaxial cable for video signal and a wire that comes from the S51 fuse and goes to the badge. You have no video signal because the two WHITE and PINK wires have no voltage on them because they are interrupted. These threads come only from the RIGHT side. There are no other wire with these colors There are pictures of them in the comments above ..

Thanks! Now i get it!

@interstellardust What do you mean if you just put the ignition on, without starting the engine, "it works fine"? My opinion is that all these anomalies are due to the poor connections caused by touching or interrupting the wires leading to the camera. In one of the pictures put by me above, we see the wires leading to the camera. Apart from the coaxial cable for video signal (and which is strong enough to withstand) all the other 3 wires are highly likely to deteriorate, to be damaged: the two white and pink wires and the brown wire that opens the badge. If the badge is opened then the S51 is ok and the other two, white and pink, remain to be checked. The fact that it "looks good" is not relevant at all, because they can be interrupted or only make occasional contact without seeing anything with the naked eye .... and the fact that the display shows black when the badge is not open is perfectly normal for that the camera is blocked by the badge. I have described on some post above the verification method if the rear camera receives voltage. Check and tell me the result ...

Shuvie, what I mean is, when you put the key in the car and push it in to the run position but not so far as to activate the starter (the same position that the key ends up in after it starts) then the camera operates correctly. The badge rotates, the camera moves into position and the picture appears on the screen as it should when I put the transmission in Reverse. If I actually start the car the logo does open so the camera does not move into place and I get a black screen. It could be I’m seeing what the camera is sending from the closed position. I do sometimes get a partial picture when it doesn’t open fully. What I don’t understand is why it doesn’t work with the engine running vs just sitting with the key in the run position. I will check the voltage when it stops raining. It could be a few days.

@interstellar Okay, well, you got it. More than sure that the wires have problems, the insulation on them is broken and when you start the engine, from the vibrations or from the voltage difference (engine stopped = 12.6v ... engine started 14.2v, and moisture) to make these problems. Follow these steps: - replaces the brown wire (see my pictures in the posts above) and which comes from the S51 fuse. This brown wire gives voltage to the badge, and if it is interrupted sometimes (when the engine is started) then the badge will only open half or not at all or sometimes it will work. Unscrew the wing connector of the brown wire connector, identify it and replace it. Then check the operation with the engine stopped and started especially. If you're lucky just this wire is to blame. If the badge is opened but there is no video signal then the fault is the two wires white and pink. If you found that only the brown wire from the S51 is my opinion it is to preventively change the other two wires, white and pink ....

hi shuvei my issues boot lid will not open with emblem only button on the drivers door boot lid will not open with key when car is placed in reverse i get the lines but camera does not pop out, i measure voltage on pink and red/white wires and got 6.5vdc, i had issues with looms that go through the hinges last year and replaced both set s of wiring , lights on left and camera on right, i am at a loss now as to where the voltage drop is occurring as i should have 12 v at the camera, i checked the voltage from the body to + and its still 6.5 vdc so rules out a poor earth

I had a chance to rest the voltage of the white/pink wire inside the trunk lid at the connection going to the camera and emblem area. I also get 6.5 volts. The wired look fresh with no deterioration of the insulation. I have not had a chance to pull the cover off the right side yet to look for brakes. I stopped for the day because after this trouble shooting session the car would not start and I had to jump it. After driving for a while to recharge, the camera worked fine just once and has now gone back to not opening the emblem. I will have a look at the right side later and report back

im very interested in you having 6.5 volts also

I'm having the same issue on a 2014 CC - left steering wheel, it started by the camera emblem getting stuck in the open position every now and then (only in colder wether). And after a couple of month, I got the "rear view camera is currently unavailable" message. and since then, whenever I put the gear on reverse, the camera pops open. However, no change in the screen, I don't get a black screen or anything, its stays the same (lets say on radio). I tried to measure the voltage but I couldn't, I thought I could squeeze the test probes into the end of the red wire to test but its not working, is there a less invasive way to measure the voltage, or do I have to strip these wires?

i have 11.4 bolts on the brown wire when i put car in reverse with the lock closed on the boot lid

@interstellardust and @ccireland Very important: When measuring the voltage on the two wires: white and pink, make two measurements: one with the cable socket connected and one with the white and pink wire socket removed from the cable leading to the camera / badge. The voltage of 6.5v or other abnormal voltages can be obtained by the loop made through the electronic circuit of the badge/camera: For example, if the ground wire is interrupted you will get to measure some voltage because you will have + 12v through the pink wire and you will receive fake ground from the camera / badge circuit, not as normal, from the battery minus, this being a fake "ground". residual, not the one, real, from the car body or battery .. So unplug the plug and check that. Do NOT forget to meet the badge / camera operating conditions: contact engine - reverse gear and simulate closed rear hood (closed lock) By the way, to measure you do not have to cut the insulation or destroy the wires: you can measure the voltage in the connector on the inside or out the wires you can insert the probes.

@iCalid.........Remove the two-wire socket, white and pink and measure directly into the socket, so as not to cut the wires or their insulation. One or both wires are interrupted in your case. Replace these two wires and you will have the image in the rear camera again

2 quick comments. 1. I did disconnect the wired before testing the voltage. Also used the car body as ground when I got 6.5v. Latch in the latch position, in reverse switch on. 2. in reading through the entire owners manual (ugh) I found a note saying if a tail light bulb is burned out that will prevent the camera from working. I checked putting the key in and manually turning the lights on. All 8 bulbs work plus turn signals backup and brake light. After that test the backup camera worked correctly. I suspect this is not a permanent fix so will be tracing the wires up the drivers side of the trunk when I have more time (assuming it quits again).

You are right. When the defect appears and disappears by itself somewhere it is a bad contact and that changes its state according to certain factors. If the thing with the functioning of the camera that depends on the operation of certain rear bulbs is true then clearly it must be investigated and confirmed that all work. The rear lights come from the left side, the driver's side (left steering wheel) and I found wires with bad insulation in this part as well. Care must be taken with the utmost care and any suspicion about a connection must be insisted upon until clear proof is made that everything is ok. With little knowledge of electronics and handling a soldering gun, all suspicious wires, including those that look ok, can be replaced. Cut one wire at a time on both ends, approx. 10 cm away from the sockets. Then buy from a store of electrical insulated flexible wire (multiwire) 1x0,5..0,75mm diameter. Choose a wire that has plastic insulation that is softer, more "silicone" because it is more flexible in time and does not crack so easily. Also from there ask for the insulated connection "thermo isolating tube" that is placed on the wire and after welding is pulled over the solder and heated with a lighter and he tightens and fastens there. It is the easiest, fastest and space-saving option, considering there will be several welded and insulated wires nearby. To replace the suspicious wire in the section, weld the new wire to the end of the old one and pull the old one until it comes out through the tube of the bonnet the end of the new one. Then cut the new wire, then place on the new wire two pieces of about 3 cm heat shrink tube and attach the new wire at the two ends to the sockets. After weld the wires, pull the two sleeves of thermo tube over the welds and heat them with a lighter until they are molded over the welded area. Do not exaggerate with the heat as it can melt the insulation of the wire or even open the weld. Walk the flame over the tube and at a distance of 1-2 cm from the flame. When you are done with it go to the next wire. One by one so you don't accidentally reverse the order. When all are replaced, you arrange them at the inlet and outlet of the bonnet by bonding with adhesive tape or plastic collars. Be careful to leave the original cable a certain reserve necessary for flexing when closing and opening the bonnet. Finally, test and adjust the new thread section when closing and opening the bonnet.

hi lads all my lights work including both reverse lights, im still at 6.5 volts with no camera opening , still have 6.5v on the small pink and white /red cable ,should 12v to the brown wire open the camera ?

Yes, of course, you must have 12 volts on the brown wire. It is the voltage that powers the badge and the hood closure. They receive 12v via the S51 fuse that is in the dashboard, inside, behind that small compartment under the light switch. (As I said, this fuse is not located in the fuse box, it is behind the fuse box and access to it is by removing that small compartment under the switch) If somehow the rear wires have a short circuit, then the fuse can be burned, and the brown wire will not receive voltage, and the bonnet cannot be opened from the badge, only from the switch on the driver's door. It is also important to measure the two white and pink wires at both ends: the connector on the hood and the connector on the other end of these two wires.

L. E. .... Even if the camera works and there is no voltage on the brown wire then the badge does not flip and the camera is blocked ... and the image from it will be black ... So keep in mind: the camera circuit is separate from the circuit locks and badges. The identification of the defective area is easy: A} .... If the message "rear camera is not available" then the white and pink wires are interrupted and need to be replaced ... B} If the image from the camera is black but without the message up then the brown wire does not come voltage from the S51, this is definitely burned ... and C) If the message "rear camera is not available" and at the same time can not open the boot from the badge then there are two defects A and B simultaneously and the S51 fuse must be replaced and the two wires (white and pink) replaced between the connectors.

i will revert back to this brown cable as it only had 11.4 volts last time , thank you

If You have 11,4 volts then measure again and measure the car battery too to see what the differences are between this two points...If the battery indicates below 12,5v then it is discharged and should be charged immediately because it shortens significantly its life. If it indicates 12.5v (is the lower limit) then it is charged 50%.....At 12.6v it means 80-85% charged and 12.65 means 100% charged. . All battery measurements are made at least half an hour after the engine has been stopped or the battery disconnected from the auxiliary charger

@shuvei I've measured the voltage on both wires and didn't get any reading, I'm not sure if I measured correctly tho, as I'm not sure if there is a specific part of the trunk should I use as ground? or any part of the trunk would work? and assuming I measured correctly and the wires are in fact faulty, how can I replace them? do I need to trace the wires all the way to the source? assuming it will terminate somewhere near to the engine, or is there a breaking point somewhere in between?

First try the measuring device directly on the car battery to see if it works and indicates correctly. Then go to the connector from your picture and measure to see if you have tension between the two wires. If the measuring device does not indicate any value then check between the pink wire and car ground and then between the white wire and car ground. (Car ground can be any metallic area unpainted or covered with varnish or other protection and which is directly related to the car body) To avoid complicating things and do not make unnecessary measurements, as I said, you measure the value between the two wires directly in the connector in your picture : One probe plugs it into the connector on the white wire and the other one on the pink wire. Be careful not to touch the probes of the device between them when you plug them into the socket because if there is voltage there then you will make a short circuit. You can use two conductor ends to reach the contacts in the connector more easily. If the measurement does not indicate any value then you have to disassemble the padding of the right wing and from there come these two wires, from harness. Cut from there, where it comes out of the harness, (long enough the ends to be able to attach them to the new ones and by the method described somewhere above you pull them through the tube. Up to the connector do the same. If you do not have the skills in electrical circuits it would be best to you call a friend or someone who knows or is qualified in electrical circuits to help you to replace that two wires from the connector to the rear wing. It is not difficult if you have the skill and you have worked with something like this ... but not very easy for someone who try this first time.

have you ever seen the controller falling ?

I haven't heard of controller problems. The chances of it failing are very small. It is quite robust and professionally built and has some protections that make it reliable.

so i have all voltages going to the camera checked and are present so i flipped the camera shutter with a terminal screwdriver and can see my shed , all seems fine except the mechanism that pops out the camera is the issue. will have to try a different unit

@ccireland.......But can the trunk be opened by the badge? The mechanism of the rear camera is conditioned by the mechanism of the lock. If the luggage compartment cannot be opened from the badge, only from the driver's door switch, then the brown wire coming from the S51 is interrupted and probably the S51 fuse is burned.

i have my answer at long last i took the badge out, i then took the camera out of the badge, the camera is working 100%, the problem is the emblem is not opening because the little motor that drives it has broken plastic cogs on its drive gear. replacement required i am afraid

Do You have + 12v on the brown wire or not? If you have 12v the badge mechanismn is defetive.... if you not have 12v check the brown wire integrity and replace S51 fuse under dashboard.

i have 12 volts on the brown

Hi everyone. @Shuvei please assist here. I am driving a chev utility 2013 model. I bought the aftermarket rearview camera with the dashcam and installed it all the way to the back. Worked perfect until yesterday when I decided to now plug it(camera only comes with a red wire for Reverse) into reverse wire which I hadn't done because of a tester. I sourced the reverse wire by switching the lever on and off reverse and tester did the same so I cut open that wire and joined my red wire from the camera there. My screen became blank, no LEDs shining at the back and camera disappeared on the screen. When I remove that red wire from the reverse wire screen comes on but reverse camera has vanished.. What did I do wrong? I first connect the dashcam on the aftermarket cigarette extension port

@Hi. Let's clarify a little things: Where did you connect the red wire from the camera to the lever? Almost all new generation cars use the lever switch just the logical command (not a normal voltage switch, at which you have or do not have voltage depending on its position) to the ECU of the car and you can not connect to it to get order signal .... The aftermarket camera manufacturers know this and avoid the complicated situations for amateurs and use, recommend for the order of the camera, when reversing, the voltage from the reversing lamp, a simple method and available to anyone. In the manufacturer's specifications you must have details regarding the connection of the camera, which wire where to connect. Give me more details, (possibly pictures with connections, image on display, etc.) possibly the model of the camera used so I can understand the situation more clearly.

Hi, Please can someone help me find the s51 fuse! I've looked through the cubby hole, bottom right of the stressing wheel, I can see a bunch of fuses but none that say s51. Where in earth is it? It's a 59 plate cc Thank you

@Mmid2....S51 Fuse is behind this compartment. You must disassemble this compartment, to have access inside the board. This small compartment (used for glasses, documents, etc.) can have different dimensions which depending on the year of manufacture of the car can be smaller or larger and behind it, at the top you, will find a single fuse and possibly something relay or other components, as I said, depends on the model of the car. I put a picture to more easily identify the area where the S51 fuse is located

@shuvei i have managed to remove the compartment to locate S51 fuse, however the fuse on top (15amp) is not burned. Voltage has been checked from pink and white wire and brown wire on the trunk lid, No voltage, however the badge does flip out but still black screen is present. All the wiring for the camera and boot wiring has been replaced with OEM VW Parts, complete harness change on camera harness and boot wiring harness, where to go from here?

You said, "All the wiring for the camera and boot wiring has been replaced with OEM VW Parts .." What wiring was replaced? If your car is with the steering wheel on the left then pink and white should be replaced coming from the right wing through the hood tube ... In fact all three wires: pink white and brown must be replaced..I am convinced that if S51 fuse(below board) you said it is ok, it is not burnt, and up on the hood, at the connector that leads to the badge you have no voltage, clearly the wires (pink, white and brown) are interrupted .. and 99.99999% are interrupted between the hood and the wing connector, so in the area of that hood tube. You replace all 3 wires (see the operation described by me somewhere above) and everything will be resolved ...

@shuvei the steering wheel is on the right as it is a uk car. The pink, white and brown wires have all been replaced. The new wiring harness from the camera control module to the badge connections has been replaced with brand new oem harness along with the boot wiring harness for the tail lights also.

@shuvei the RNS 510 is still displaying a black screen as mentioned above.

The camera indicates black screen because it does not receive voltage or is defective (less likely). You must identify where the supply circuit of the camera is interrupted. So if you said that the S51 is ok and at the connector attached to the boot lid you have no voltage, it means that between the safety and the hood you have circuit break. My advice (and this is usually the case) is to go with a measuring device and check if the voltage from the S51 to the wing connector..The next step: If there is voltage and up on the boot lid connector there is no that those wires (pink and white even changed) do not make a good electrical connection for some reason and must be investigated. If you tell me where and what checks you have made, the result of the electrical measurements can better understand the situation and possibly find a possible solution. ..So, 1. Check the voltage at both terminals of the S51 fuse 2. If there is voltage then check the connector inside the wing where the pink white and brown wires are connected 3. If there is voltage on this connector, go to the connector on the boot lid and check voltage... Tell me the results ..

Just rechecked all connections for voltage. S51 fuse, pink white and brown wires. Have confirmed that they all recieve voltage. However camera still not coming on? Figured out that the camera unit is dead, anyone have an alternative for the camera replacement as cannot find one online or is too expensive. Any oem alternative? Part number is 5K0 827 469A

It is a highline camera for a 2010 Passat CC

Okay, let's recap: 1. You have 12v on the pink and white wires on the boot lid 2. You have 12v on the brown wire on the boot lid 3. You replaced the short harness from the badge to the connector on the boot lid 4. No interventions were made on the multimedia unit of the machine: removed from the housing, removed the connectors, replaced modules, etc. 5. When you position the lever in reverse, the camera rises again, the message "video is not available" and the black screen appears. Correct? If all the above conditions are met, you can check (to be sure) the video cable, the coaxial cable leading from the connector on the boot lid to the video module inside the wing. However, it is unlikely to be interrupted because its construction is a durable cable ... but it is never known. You can also try this to eliminate all possible causes before giving money to a new one. I am convinced that somewhere there is a problem of electrical contact, because this assembly operates at low voltage and low current, so low chances of "burning" something and the second reason is that the wiring and wiring style between the boot lid and the body of the car was done poorly and gave a lot of trouble. So, confirm or deny the above 5 points and tell me

I'm also having a similar problem with my Volkswagen CC...reverse camera shows up as black at times but is working perfectly at other times. Cabling in the trunk/rear section of the car is fine as an electrician has verified this and tidied up the cabling there. Any suggestions at what could be causing this? Damaged cabling in the side/front of the car leading up to the video unit?

@Guru6RM6F ....If the defect appears and disappears randomly it is clear that it is an imperfect contact (broken wire but which makes occasional contact). I would remove the idea with the wiring harness from the video unit to the connector in the wing of the car because it is very unlikely to be interrupted. If the car has not suffered an accident, the wiring is intact. On the other hand, even if the electrician checked and everything seemed to be in order, the measurements may have been made at a time when everything was ok. In order to be able to identify the cause, they would have had to make measurements when the defect was present. I am firmly convinced that if you replace the respective wires, which supply voltage to the camera (pink and white) the problem disappears.

Hello, maybe someone can help me? Im installing og camera to my 2013 cc. From camera to the module there is purple and redwhite wires which you can see on the photo, i dont have these connectors on the car, these wires they come from the camera (red, black wires) and then they change to purple and redwhite, where i should connect them?

Vwcc20132 ...Try to be more explicit: has the car never had a camera before? What wires and what module are you referring to, the video module in the rear wing? I see in the picture the original wiring for the camera (the video cable and the power supply of the camera .. did you put them or they were there? connected to the video module ... explain more concretely, in more detail that it is not clear what is with the respective wires and what you do not know how to do ...

L. E. The wires you hold in your hand in the picture go through the hood tube to the video module. This module (I hope you have it) can be found in the right rear wing and there are these wires connected: the video cable and the power cable for the camera (Pink and white) Further to the car the video signal is transmitted by this module. If the car did not have the rear camera you definitely do not have this video module ...

So, my vw cc 2013 never had a camera, i bought original camera with the wires from a guy who scrapped his car and had camera in it. So i bought wires on the trunk (which has 4 pin connector for the new camera emblem, my old wires were with 2 pins) i buoght wires from the camera to the block and harness from the block to the media (everything is from the same car), but from the camera to the block harness number 3c8971192 which you can see on the picture, my car doesnt have green and black connectors anywhere it looks like its +-12 and signal from fuse S51 am i correct? if yes can i connect the signal from the rear back up light? and +-12 from the 15 pin wire on the media?

and yes i bout video block aswell

You have in the pictures the connection diagram of the camera. The two wires from the camera (pink and red / white) connect to the video module on terminals 47 (pink) and 48 (red / white) on diagram 2 and 3. The brown wire comes from the S51 fuse (in front of the car) and goes to the rear lid handle relase button (emblem) Normally the two terminals from the video module should be provided with a socket compatible with the one existing on the wiring harness in your picture. . Also in the case of brown wire it would be connected to a plug on a wire (red yellow) coming from S51 (on diagram no. 3 in the T2ks connector)

I will check this later tommorow, and one more question from the video module to the media the harness has cutted red, orange/brown and orange/purple which i suppose is CAN HIGH and CAN LOW and can be connected to the quad lock pins 9 and 10 but what about the red wire? where it should be connected.

I hope this will help You..

Okey. This diagram you are showing is from vw cc? Because all of the video module wires are in diffrent places on my plug you can see in the pucture. What the hell.

Maybe this diagram you are showing is from older cc? Pre fl?

The diagram is made for 2012-2915 Volskwagen CC I attach the entire file from service manual

The cover...

would it be possible for you to send me your manual please? email: dominykaszalatorius@gmail.com

maybe us and eu wirings are diffrent?

There may be differences but not significant and I do not think in the essential parts such as connectivity. It would be a technical and financial effort to create several variants for the same brand and model and would not be justified.

There are two types of cables between the RNS multimedia and the rear camera: for the normal camera (without the video module) and the "highline camera" with the video module. The difference between the two is that in the case of the highline camera over the image you can also see the fixed guide lines, on the car axle and another pair of guide lines that correspond to the rotation of the steering wheel in real time. The correct cable must be chosen

Hi Shuvei. I hope you can help me with my problem. I have a Passat CC MY11 (Australian right hand drive model). A few weeks ago, the reversing camera stopped working. When I put the car into reverse, the VW badge will flip open and the camera will pop out. But there is no image in the centre console. In fact, nothing changes at all on the centre console. For example, if the radio is on and I put the car into reverse, the centre console still shows the radio. I've looked at the wiring connections to the camera an they look ok. I don't know how to check voltages (as you have suggested in your previous posts). Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

@laujjj3 The defect that occurred is very common, and it is true, I have stated above "cause and remedy" but unfortunately, without a minimum of knowledge in electronics, the use of a measuring device, a soldering machine with tin, techniques insulation, etc. it is difficult and even dangerous to try to make a remedy. My advice: contact someone who have skill in electrical/electronics and ask them to replace for You the two pink and white/red wires from the connector on the lid through its tube to the inside of the car's wing. Finally, he must check if there is 12vdcc,,.in the connector on the lid, pink and white / red wires (measurement made with the ignition on, reverse lever and simulated lid closing)

Hi Shuvei. You are absolutely correct, I'll probably kill me or the car if I tried! I'll find an auto-electrician to help me. After reading your previous posts on this issue, do you think the problem will be fixed by simply replacing the wires as you have indicated? So, it's unlikely to be an issue with: a. the camera; b. the mysterious s51 fuse; c. the controller unit (I must admit that I don't even know what it is); or d. another wire problem? Many thanks for your advice.

Hi laujjj3...Yes, I am absolutely sure that the two wires are the cause of the problem and once replaced everything returns to normal. Then, "the mysterious s51 fuse": This is responsible for the badge mechanism that opens the trunk, so, if you can't open the trunk lid by the emblem then it is burned, otherwise it is ok. Also other modules are not affected. And by the way, if he replacing the wires in the lid tube then replace all 3 wires: pink, red / white and brown (from the S51 fuse which now looks ok), except the coaxial video cable ... because it is possible that soon the brown wire it can become interrupted just as the other two suffered and this operation is necessary again. You can tell the auto-electrician or the person doing the operation that he can use 1x 0.75 milimeters insulated mutiwires (flexible) conductor and finally coat all the wires in the textile insulating tape and pulled through the hood tube.

Hi Shuvei. Thanks for your latest answer. I took a photo of the wires. There are 4 wires going into the black connector: 1. White/red (is this the wire to be replaced?) 2. Purple (is this the wire to be replaced?) 3. Red 4. Black There's also a brown wire going into the blue connector (is this the wire to be replaced as well?). Then there are three wires going into the green/gray connector: 1. Shiny Black 2. Yellow 3. Thin black Many thanks for your help.

Only the pink wires and the white / red wire in the black connector and the brown wire in the blue connector are replaced, nothing else. These 3 wires go along with the thick glossy black wire (which is the video cable and you don't have to replace only the three specified wires). They are cut at a distance of 3-4 cm from the connector at both ends and are replaced with other new wires insulated and pulled through the tube of the lid.

Hi Shuvei. I now completely understand and will ask an auto electrician to do as you have suggested. Will let you know how it goes. Really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this.

Hi, I'm glad things are clear now. Also, if you have already disassembled the trunk lid, then the wires replacement operation can be done by someone who is good at electrical installations, not necessarily a car electrician. In fact, it's about replacing some electrical conductors, it's not a big deal. Anyway, I'm waiting for your feedback after you finish the operation. Success

Hi Shuvei. Here's an update. Over the past week, my auto-electrician did a lot of work to try to solve the problem which ultimately failed. The problem was a failure in the reversing camera control module. The attached photo shows a burnt-out circuit. They successfully replaced the damaged circuit (not the whole circuit board). But when they re-attached the module, they discovered that a motor in the camera would short-out the circuit. A new reversing camera control module would cost about AUD$2,000 to purchase, reprogram and install - too expensive to bother with. My very honest auto-electrician didn't charge me for much of the work. He has now disconnected the reversing camera and reprogrammed my centre console so that the Optical Parking System will appear when I put the car into reverse. No reversing camera image but a good solution to have the OPS instead. It has cost me AUD$200 for all the work that was done. At least I now know what was wrong. After 10 years, I'm not surprised that some of the car's electronics are now beginning to fail. I'm quite sure that more electronics will fail long before the engine dies. Anyway, my thanks to you for trying to solve the issue (I had provided your solution to my auto-electrician). My best wishes to you during this coronavirus crisis.

Hi laujjj3 I'm honestly sorry to hear that. You had the misfortune that 1% of cases (I think) you had a defective camera module. On the other hand, this module does not cost nearly 2000USD, look here for example OEM, original, costs 580 euros with wiring. https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/limousine/oem-5k0827469as-ulm-vw-rear-view/ You can also find them on ebay or Aliexpress at even lower prices which, even if they are not OEM, fit perfectly. I say it's worth it ... Best regards

Hi I have a 2011 (MY12) Passat wagon RHD (Australian) and the reverse camera has stopped working, I’m pretty sure it stopped after we replaced the battery. Is there anything I can do to get it working again? My wife keeps reversing into things.

@ Undeezzz..................Provides more details .. just the camera does not work? other symptoms?

Help! My car is VW passat 2015, now the rear view camera stops working now, no graphic view but radar beep when I am reversing. The VW dealer had investigation: it is out of order due to camera control module connector corrosion. I am looking for some OEM parts to replace it. Any solution for it? Thanks!

@ Alex.....Camera control module connector corrosion ??? Unless you park your car in the pool every day, I don't see how a car from 2015 can corrode the connector on the video module ... almost impossible because the module is overprotected inside the car's wing. The S51 fuse must be checked (I described above where its location is) and if it is not solved by replacing it, then the three wires inside the lid tube must be replaced: white pink and brown. Either you misunderstood what the dealer said or he doesn't know what the real problem is. Check, as I said S51 fuse (15A), replace it if it is burned and everything returns to normal. If it burns again then the wires in the tube that we talked about above must be replaced.

@shuvei It is vevy helpful, I disbelieved as well and took it to the consumer affair, but I did not go ahead as unless I could approve the dealer has done something wrong during the service (the camera stopped working after second day of the service) .

Had similar issue..2010 VW CC- 3 years ago dealer told me my camera pivot motor was bad and needed to be replaced ($900). 2 weeks ago had reverse light failure on trunk lid so replaced trunk wiring harness. Immediately saw broken wires as commonly reported. That fixed the light. As I saw the break in wires I tore apart passenger side of trunk to examine camera wires and video feed. All my electrical wires were broke in multiple places..instead of buying new harness as dealer said my pivot motor was bad, I fixed broken wires to hopefully remove radio display of "camera not found"..after hooking all up I regained full camera operation. VW emblem now flips open as designed exposing camera lens, error message gone and now can open trunk manually with pushing on VW emblem on trunk. Quick and easy once I saw broken wires and too bad I waited 3 years to tear apart after dealer told me it was the actual camera and pivot motor.

@Alex...It is possible that it was just a coincidence and the defect appeared with the intervention from the workshop. What is certain is that the video module, the camera (including the badge assembly) have quite small chances to break down, especially in the first years of the car's life. Instead, the connecting cables between them are exposed (unfortunately quite often) to interruptions. Sometimes the interrupts only stop the operation of the camera and the badge (to open trunk by badge) and other times the wires when they break cause a small short circuit that burns the S51 fuse and needs to be replaced. Of course (again unfortunately) more workshops prefer to replace expensive subassemblies, even if many of them are ok and do not require replacement, either they do not know the problem and do not want research on the real defect, or to collect more money on replacement products and labor. But everyone is free to choose whether it is worth investigating on their own or paying the required amount without getting involved ...

@Flash_Gordon1...Perfect. With a little luck and involvement you solved a problem that would have cost hundreds of dollars. :)

Ok, so I finally was able to remove the trunk panels, and stripped the wiring harness and found all 4 wires are either completely cut or damaged, based on your experience guys, a wire repair would suffice or should I get a new harness

@iCalid..How do you prefer: you can order a set of cables if you don't want to complicate things but it will probably take time and cost money or the quick and economical option (I described it somewhere above) cut the respective wires near the plugs, at the ends and replace them with other flexible wires after which you put them in the textile tape and fix them in place. If you have never done such a thing before and you do not have the minimum experience in electricity, option 1 is preferable.

@shuvei I've replaced the trunk wire harness with a new one. However, it's still not fully working! now I'm getting a black screen (before I didn't), and the trunk doesn't open and the camera comes out of its housing. any ideas what might be wrong?

S51 fuse? It is ok? Read above how to locate and check this fuse. Also, You can check this in another way: if you do',t have 12vcc on brown wire the fuse is bad..

@iCalid......S51 fuse is not located in the relay box. I wrote in a previous post that to the left of the steering wheel must be opened that small compartment for documents / glasses, etc. and behind it is this S51 fuse (15A). Even after you open that compartment and have access inside the S51 fuse board, it is difficult to notice because it is masked by the harness that leads to the safety panel. Basically this is not even seen but if you run your fingers behind this harness you will find it. Removing and checking requires some skill ..

thank you, I've found it after I posted the question.

the S51 fuse works fine, I couldn't remove it all the way, but I was able to see that there is no burn marks or any issues with it. Moreover, I tested it with a multimeter and it beeps and reads ~ 0.4 Ohms. the other thing I noticed is the trunk light [in the side interior trim panel] is not working which doesn't seem to connects through the same trunk wiring harness, not sure if there is a bigger issue

One more thing, I measured the voltage on the red and white wire and it was 6v the purple wire didn’t show any voltage. And reverse light is not working and I’m getting a message for it

You have a lot of wires on the other side of trunk which is for lights signal, brake lights, fog lights etc.. so, if you have problems with this lights you must check that wires...Also, you must make measurement between red/white and purple wire with ignition and the lever in reverse...to simulate rear moving..only in this case the video control module provide 12vcc..

I took my measurements while the engine is running, car on reveses and the trunk latch is closed, the white and red wire is getting 6v.

Check that you have the voltages as in the attached image. Check on the inside of the hood as in the picture and check the voltage at the connector in the wing where these wires go ... You said you replaced the faulty wiring in the lid tube, between the hood and the car wing where the video control module is located, yes? and that this wiring is like the one in the picture and has three wires: white / red and pink, (a pair that go together in the same connector), then it also contains the brown wire and the video cable, the black one and thicker than the others. .so a wiring with the 4 wires, right? let's talk about the same component. If the answer is yes then check if you have in the wing, where does this wiring to 12 vcc on the brown wire and also 12 vcc on the two white / red and pink wires. Maybe the wiring is good but the contact is imperfect or the connector in the car wing is not fixed well ... Also, to check the voltage it is enough to put the contact and the lever in reverse without starting the engine ... just to simulate closed latch ...

@shuvei yes I replaced all 4 wires with a brand new trunk wiring harness ()part# 3C8971192C) from the dealer. I've verified continuity between the new harness for all 4 wires. I've measured voltage again from the trunk side panel to trunk lid and here is the results: -- side panel -- trunk wiring harness -- camera. Brown wire: -- side panel [green connector](11.78v) -trunk harness- (11.79v) [blue connector] (11.76v) -- camera. white/red wire: -- side panel [black connector](6.5v) -trunk harness- (6.5v) [black connector] (6.5v) -- camera. pink wire: -- side panel [black connector](0.01v) -trunk harness- (0.01v) [black connector] (0.01v) -- camera. video cable: -- side panel video control module [gray connector] -trunk harness- (0.98v) [gray connector]-- camera.

Any ideas what else would cause the voltage to be 6.5v at the White/red wire?

How do you make measurement on the whit/red and pink wires? Between this two wires (that its correct way) or from each of this two wire and the earth, (chasis of the car)? Voltage measurement must be make between this wires not each of them and earth, minus battery or car chassis...Tell me about this, how is in ypou case...

I either unplug them or insert the multimeter (red) probe in the conector end for the wire, then I take the black (com) probe and connect it on an unpainted screw on car trunk/chassis

If a rearview camera works when the key is in and the ignition is on and you are putting the gear selector to reverse but the engine is not running then everything regarding the camera and the wiring is fine. If you are getting a "No Signal" error message on your screen when you start the car and the engine is running (versus when the ignition is on but the engine is not running and rear/back up camera is working fine...) then the issue that you have is voltage related that corresponds with the working alternator... In short, you can solve your problem very easily and very cheaply by buying a relay or a capacitor regulator... Prices are from $6-$14... depending on where you get it from... Your VW computer system can only have up to 12V going to the camera... With the ignition on but the engine not running the voltage getting to the camera may be enough for it to work and that's why it shows on your screen without any problems... However, when you start the ignition and the alternator starts charging... the voltage exceeds 12V, and getting close to 13V+ and car's computer/brain system shuts the camera down (...think of it as safeguarding the system...) The solution is to get a regulator/capacitor or a relay and allow a constant 12V to keep getting to the camera... For those of you that have backupo cameras that flicker or have distortion issues, the same method solution will eliminate their problem since the "Pulsing of signals" of the car's electronics will be eliminated... It's a very easy installation... takes almost no time... besides removing your panel to get to the connecting wires for your backup camera...) and results are immediate and obvious... Give it a try... First, start by realizing that the camera works when the ignition is on but the engine is off. If the camera works when the gear selector is on the reverse then the above most likely will resolve your issues... Furthermore, AUDI is recommended a similar fix on some of the aftermarket car/camera installations ... I hope all of you that are looking for a solution to the camera not coming on and instead you are getting a "No signal" error message... the above helps...

Hmmm ... I don't get a "camera not available" message on my 2013 VR6/4motion CC -- nor do i get a backup image. The owner's book says I should have a screen with an "X" in the upper right, and I should click on the "X," but I can find no such screen. Nor do I get a black screen; that's why I didn't know there was a camera. The emblem pops out, and there's the camera, but no rear view appears. Thoughts?

Shuwei:What is the correct wau to make the voltage measurement? Should I put the multimeters red probe to red/white wire and Black probe to purple wire? I have same 6,5V readings like iCalid, when putting the Black probe to battery minus and red to red/white wire.

In an effort to understand your dilemma accurately... I must ask... You do have a backup camera correct? You know where it is and you know that simply is not working for whatever reason.... correct? The reason I am asking you that is because there is a possibility that your head unit is made to accommodate one and when it is triggered to engage the cameral it shows you nothing because there is neither wiring not camera present... Also, is your unit a factory one or an aftermarket? Most suggestions here will apply/refer to an aftermarket unit. If yours is installed by the VW factory... I would strongly recommend getting in touch with your dealership... but only to pick their minds and ask for suggestions... You don't have to bring it to them to be fixed ... but in most cases, if there is an issue with their unit they would be aware and give you some feedback... OK that's that regarding an original setup done by VW... In this case, I will assume that your head unit (your radio/DVD/CD/Navigation) is an aftermarket one... If there is a camera wired from the back of your car to the head unit and the wiring is not cut or interrupted in some way (you can find that out by testing the cables - you'll need to pull out the head unit and test that there is continuity of current from he back wires to the front... all sort of ways to do that... if you are not that familiar with that just take it to a trusted person who knows how and it will be easy for them to tell you)... If you have realized that everything is wired and simply the camera is not functioning then there are a couple more assumptions that you need to clear out... The Head unit is working and is not faulty...and the backup camera is working and not faulty... in both cases that is only a remote possibility but you need to eliminate it... While you are doing that make sure that the camera wiring is correctly connected to the back of the head unit. When all that is verified and everything is properly in place... then your issue is with the voltage, the wiring, and the correct connection/feed of the camera. Before I continue, and in an effort to help, please tell me if your head unit is working properly If by turning the ignition without starting your car you get anything to display at your car's head unit screen from the camera when you are putting it in reverse... If there is totally a blank screen and there is no indication that anything is connected (no flickering, no picture that comes and goes, nothing at all) - (and you have already determined that the camera is not faulty... one way to figure that out is to see if another camera working by temporarily test it with another stereo outside your vehicle providing the voltage and the proper switching to the setup... you'll see immediately if the camera is functioning or not... but all in all cameras are a very inexpensive item nowadays and rarely malfunction... so I wud assume that everything that you have in your CC currently is properly set up ... the only thing that will drive anyone insane if the wiring from the camera to your head unit is intera[ted /cut along the way and no one tested to make sure that all wiring is functional... Please verify all of the above... If everything is fine then connecting a camera with the right wiring or verifying that the right wires getting a feed from the right sources is the easy part and in no time you'll have a working camera... Almost in all cases, you'll need a 12 volts Relay 30or40 amps either 4 or 5 pins (4 is preferred but 5 is also fine but you are not going to use the fifth blade pin - preferably with a hook to help to put it on your car... such relays can be found everywhere and normally cost $4-$9). Also, if you want to understand better how and why this whole thing works better and more accurately with a relay especially with aftermarket items for German cars please take a look at this video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAeKTlieYhw. I hope the above helps you a bit more... perhaps even gives you a direction to go in order to solve themistery in your car... but all in all is, not a big issue although many people is facing it without adequate information to resolve it... yet its relatively easy concept to resolve... All are based on the factory's computer and its sensitivity.... and that's why a relay is so important to bypass these issues... Good Luck.

BACKUP CAMERA IS WORKING BUT PICTURE IS FUZZY OR HAS SCROLLING LINES - ITS AN INTERFERENCE ISSUE - EASY SOLUTION... When a backup camera is working but there is flickering the only thing you need is a capacitor to stop the interference... they are about $4-$9 and found everywhere... By connecting it all interference will be eliminated... this is a constant problem with most European cars when aftermarket components are installed... yet it's easy to rectify the issue... even if you are not good yourself doing things in your car ... give it a try if you have the tools to take few small panels off and follow the diagrams readily available online as to how to do it... easy... if not then get your capacitor and go to any installation place and ask them to perform that for you ... it should not be that expensive ... just an hours worth of labor cost... You can find a capacitor online or in any automotive store...

Hi Passat CC which has the issue of the rear camera only partially opening, and displaying only a small part of the image. Ie, camera is not fully extending. Is this a known issue or fault? I have checked the LHScables and repaired all broken wires, but the camera doesnt fully extend. all other electronics n the rear work normally. Please help.

I may be mistaken... but I think you’re referring to the camera that’s behind the BW logo which flips outward when in reverse and the camera comes out... if that’s the case I think you are talking to the fact that the VW logo is not opening fully for the camera to be extended and cover the rear area correctly while in reverse. So, if I assumed correctly then the mechanicals of the logo/camera either need to be lubricated and tested or you need to replace the whole thing. If replacement is the solution I’d advise to go with something else. Preferably a camera that is part of the trunk rubber handle... they are very reasonably priced and easy to put together and their performance is excellent... my strong recommendation ... don’t spend money on the VW flip logo/camera. I hope I understood your question accurately and my reply helped you. Good luck.

Thanks Guru94MY5R. You assume correctly. I was fearing it would be a module failure. I’ll try removing and lubricating, but upon research I fear that the activating arm which is plastic may have failed....

@Bill can you tell me whether lubricating fixed your issue? I have the exact same problem on a 2010 CC and I was thinking about taking it to an electrician to check it out? If you could follow up on your problem, it would be very helpful :)

I have a CC 2013 (UK) and got the camera not available sign. After £90 on an autoelectrician that didn't even know where the camera was to start with, and replacing the R rear wiring loom with the optic fibre cable (£120), the camera wouldn't flip out + hence I would get a black screen. Instead of calling him again (total so far £210+VAT) , I ordered the L rear wiring loom £50 on eBay) and replaced it myself (20 mins work) and voila everything works perfectly. I would suggest, if you can't replace individual wires/solder/repair, replace the rest wiring looms yourself first, you're unplugging and plugging in complete wires do no special knowledge needed. Remove the boot lid panel and the side panels in the boot to access the looms.

@Locien I have replaced both L Rear and Right Rear boot wiring harness including fibre optic wire on my 2010 CC camera flips out but no images, displays black screen. Camera has also been replaced as well. Bit stuck as to where to go from here, any suggestions? Thanks

Check if you have 12vcc on the small shocket (under lid ttrunk, see for reference picture on my post more above) pink and white wires. Conditions: key in ignition position (but do no start engine) and the lever in reverse position., trunk lid open (you must close lid locked system with a screwdriver, to simulate the lid closed but he is open to can work and check the voltage. Remember, the rear camera only have voltage only on the ignition position, trunk lid closed, lever in reverse and badge flip up

Hi gang - I just fixed the backup camera / badge flip on my wife's car with this thread - thanks to all. Only thing to note is that in the boot lid, the green power connector to the camera / badge assemly was more like 6v not 12v. I replaced the loom (just used some FST cable i had lying around and velcro tied it to the old cable, and soldered it to the old connectors) and the fuse behind the little storage box by the steering wheel (RHD) and all sorted!

My question is, since this is obviously a common problem, why isn’t there a recall on it. It is certainly safety related. Perhaps there have not been any fatalities rated to the rear view failure but poor design and materials are costing people a ton of money and even dealerships are unable to properly diagnose and fix the problem.

Like some other posters here I was measuring 6.4V at the camera power plug on my 2013 Passat. I checked all my wiring and found it was OK. Eventually I traced the problem to a faulty rear park assist buzzer (H15). It was open circuit which was causing the park assist system to fail its power-up test. Believe it or not, this causes the whole system, including the camera to shut down. So if you have checked all your wiring and it seems OK, check to see if either your front or rear park assist buzzer is faulty.

Hello, I read the entire conversation carefully as I am concerned about a highline camera failure on the 2009 VW CC, left hand drive. Default: camera does not go out, or does not go in, opening by logo impossible, screen display starts up, line tracing, and video "from the inside". Work carried out: repair and meticulous control of the left and right cabling. Brown wire + 12v ok, but only 6.5v coming from the 3C8 907 441 camera module, measurement made in the trunk before the fragile wiring harness and unplugged camera connector, to avoid a kickback. If I read correctly, when you have 12v on a brown wire, the handle must open the trunk? am I right ? however my VW does not open. Also note, The eight front and rear parking assist sensors are working. What should we deduce from it? replacement camera assembly 5K0 827 469A? Or control module? Both ? because let's not forget that the control module only sends 6.5v with the camera unplugged, it is not this that drops the voltage from 12 to 6. . Thank you

I have a 2015 vw cc where the backup camera is hidden inside the emblem. Recently a message appeared on my screen saying "rear view camera is currently unavailable". I brought it to a vw specialist shop today and they were able to fix it for $200! The issue with mine turns out that the camera had residue on it for some reason causing it to get stuck behind the plastic so it couldnt come out. They had to basically pry it out and clean the camera and add a lubricant around it. Works perfect again

bonjour, pour info, j'ai du neuf , il faut savoir que les 6v5 est la tension d'alimentation correcte en sortie du module.donc le module était bon, puis j'ai démonté les engrenages qui servent au mouvement de la caméra, j'ai synchronisé , il y a un repère en pointillé, puis remontage ensemble, essai et la caméra entre et sort correctement.par contre , le logo VW n'ouvre pas le coffre à bagages.malgré la présence du 12v permanent. si je trouve, je vous informe.cordialement .

Bonjour, je tiens à vous informer que le coffre ne s'ouvrait par la poignée logo à cause de la caméra , j'ai à nouveau démonter et synchroniser les engrenages , puis la caméra sort et rentre correctement , et le logo ouvre le coffre . pour combien de temps? je ne sais pas, mais le problème est localisé, il ne s'agit pas du tout des alimentations et commandes .

@shuvei I understand this discussion is more that a year old, but I'm having trouble finding the S51 fuse. I've recently purchased a 2012 Passat Sedan and have a similar issue with the rear view camera. The emblem dosen't tilt up, however the camera works, but obviously the view is blocked since the emblem doesn't open up. I have opend the small coin/document comparment under the light switch and took a photo. Could you or anyone else point where exactly on the attached photo I should look for the S51 fuse please?

@Guru9RLP9F The fuse is behind the relay panel in your picture. It is quite difficult to find and replace this fuse. The first time I looked for it, I couldn't believe that it could be there and that it could be located there, but there it is.I will never understand why they hid it there. It is quite difficult to access. After two interventions on that fuse, I took it out, (including the socket) to have easier access to it in case of need. You have picture with this.

@Shuvei thank you for your response. I removed the top relay panel, nothing behind it. Then took the compartment door completely off for better access, looked everywhere, absolutely nothing.

@Guru9RLP9F My car is also from 2012 (coupe 170Hp) and I don't think there are any differences between them in the electrical installation. I also found the fuse in the same place on another VW model. It must be there somewhere, so try to dismantle the other relay panel (under the comfort computer, that black box between relay panels) below and look under it as well. Maybe they placed the fuse a few cm lower. If you finally find it, be sure to check the wiring at the exit from the metal tube in the trunk. There, due to the repeated bending, it becomes uninsulated and produces a short circuit. I had to replace the wires again after a year or so, even though I used very flexible cables. The system is not well designed and creates problems. so, keep looking because I'd be surprised if that fuse is somewhere else... it's certainly there. Success.

Hi Guys, i'm an auto electricien so i know my know abouts around a car but this one is giving me a bit of a headache. I have a Vw passat cc rline 2016 steering wheel on the left (EU), with same problem, parking camera no available on Mib 2 and Vw logo not coming out with reverse gear with engine running or just in contact mode. I looked at all trunk harness in the boot section, right and left and all are in good condition but to make sure i took them out of the car and unrapped the isolation to look for broken wires or defective wires and i probed the wire from one end to the other with voltimeter in closed circuit position so that the voltimeter beeps to know that wire is not interrupted until the other end because some of the times wires are broken in the inside and the protection that isolates the wires is in good condition so to make sure wires are good, i probe them all. I get 12 vcc that goes to S51 on the brown wire and 6.5 vcc on the two white / red and pink wires that comes from module to camera, i have read all the post and no luck, i even coded with vcds and odis but no luck, problem remains, any help will be appreciated. Best Regards Nesport

Hi Nesport44, On the white and red/pink wires you must have 12v, not 6.5 (I attach the picture) The lack of 12v between the two wires (with the plug removed) indicates a power failure from the video module, 99% sure broken wires between the video module and the connector on the back cover. I encountered this problem and measuring the wires for continuity indicates that everything is ok..BUT! At the time I was measuring, the hood was up and somehow the wires were making contact, so everything seemed ok. When I lowered the hood, the wires would break. So if you notice in the attached image, I replaced the two wires between the video module connector and the connector on the hood and everything is back to normal. Moreover, after replacing the wires, I used a flexible steel wire that I bandaged together with the other wires in order not to allow complete flexing, bending of the wires when exiting the hood tube, because that is the area where the wires break due to their repeated bending. In this way, the elastic steel wire takes the bending stress and protects them. Other causes could be (if the wires are still ok, you don't have the command from the reversing switch to the RNS and the video module doesn't command and therefore you don't have the necessary 12v. If when you put the lever in reverse, the reversing lamp lights up then this option is eliminated. Also, another cause would be the actuator in the badge that does not close the circuits correctly. Attention: before testing the voltages, the continuity of the wires and the voltage related to the operation of the camera and the badge, you must simulate the hood closed, that is, with a screwdriver or something suitable to close the hood latch, even if it remains open to gain access...otherwise not you will have correct measurements or even lack of them. In the last resort, if nothing works, you should replace the rear assembly (camera and badge). I have not yet come across a case where these are defective, but you never know. They still remain with the first version with the two interrupted wires. I hope it helps.

The picture with the connections

Hi shuvei, thanks for responding, i checked all the wires again out of the car and i put 12v across the wires to see if there was a drop when i wiggled the wires from one end to another and all came out 100 % without no voltage drop, so i erased that part of the wires out my list, then i opened the camera module to see if i had any component damaged or burnt circuit, i tested module circuit with my oscilloscope to see the voltage waves all where ok, all seemed good, i then came to a point that it could be interrupted else where from back to the front of the car, so i decided to do my own cam circuit eleminating the original cam. I cut the brown wire that feeds the emblem through the module to open on reverse and fed it 12v that comes from reverse light, the emblem opened straight away on reverse, so that part was sorted out right away. I then took out the emblem and took out the original camera and adapted a normal camera insde the original housing, all went great, i then connected an rca video male/male cable that i ran from the radio to the back to connect the camera and the 12v i connected to the 12v that goes to the s51, i then coded with vcds module 10 to read an aftermarket camera, all was working fine without no problems. But then when i would idle the car there would be no video signal, so i then used a 12v 30amp relay to feed the camera, and like this i would have a constant 12v, and now it works fine, i then put in my Dynavin android radio back, i took it out to put the original Mib2 to enter the module 5F to test and diagnose, i dont have all photos of my work but when i have time i will take photos of the wires and back cam. Hope this helps anyone...

The picture of customisation of cam

Picture with camera in emblem

Picture of rear camera in HD resolution

Picture of cam and rca cable extention male/male

i changed the fuse S51 and now the emple and camera are bending out but still not working it is written not available

I haven't messed with this for over 2 years but have a more recent problem so here goes. 2010 CC US Driver on the left side. The backup camera was showing black because the camera would not open. I fixed two broken wired in the left harness where the hinge bends them. Nothing changed. I gotbusy and just ignored it. Then one day, I got an image again when in reverse. whohoo! Except the emblem no longer closes at all. Continued to ignore it. Several months later the trunk stopped opening using the door switch or key button or emblem . The backup camera still works and the emblem is still stuck in the open position. I crawked in the trunk thru the fold down rear seay and pulled the emergency handel. No help. In fact it broked loose from the trunk liner. I had to cut a hole in the trunk lid liner to reach the latch to manually open the trink lid. Looking behind the left fender well, more wires had broken so I ordered a new harness and installed it this morning. No change. I have not looked at the harness on the right (passenger's) side. Could it be the issue?