Use a scan tool to get readings from the sensor, and monitor the
short and long term fuel trim values and O2 sensor or Air Fuel
Ratio sensor readings. Also, look at the freeze frame data to see
the conditions at the time the code was set. That should help
determine if the O2 AF sensor is operating correctly. Compare with
manufacturers values. If you don’t have access to a scan tool, you
could use a multimeter and back-probe the terminals on the O2
sensor wiring connector. Check for shorts to ground, short to
power, open circuits, etc. Compare specs with manufacturers
specifications. Visually inspect the wiring & connectors leading to
the sensor, check for loose connectors, wires rubbed/chaffed,
melted wires, etc. Repair as necessary. Visually inspect vacuum
lines. You can also test for vacuum leaks using propane or
carburetor cleaner along the hoses while the engine is running, if
the RPMs change you likely found the leak. Be very careful if doing
that, and have a fire extinguisher within reach in case something
goes wrong. For example, on a bunch of Ford vehicles, the hose
that goes from the PCV to the throttle body can melt causing
P2195, P2197, P0171, and/or P0174 codes. If a vacuum leak is
determined to be the problem, it would be prudent to replace all
vacuum lines if they are getting older, becoming brittle, etc. Use a
digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) to check other sensors mentioned
such as MAF, IAT, for proper operation. Perform a fuel pressure
test, verify readings against manufacturers specification. If you’re
on a budget and you only have an engine with more than one bank
and the problem is only with one bank, you could swap the sensor
from one bank to the other, clear the code, and see if the code is
followed to the other bank. That would tell you it is the
sensor/heater itself that’s failed.
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2195
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