Ford F150 Dash/Gauge/Cluster Lights coming on in the night, draining battery (Shift Assembly didn't fix)

Correction: only the white cluster lights stay on, the blue lights don't stay on. Here is a photo of the lights that stay on and drain the battery, with the doors locked and keys out of ignition.

Hello Marcus, Did you ever find the known issue? I have 2013 F 150 platinum and having the same issue.

Unfortunately no. I still have the issue and have gotten in the habit of turning off the ignition then turning the key until just before it starts (accessory mode I believe it’s called) then back to off and removing the key. This for some reason keeps the lights from coming on, but it’s annoying to do and to tell people when they borrow my truck. If you find a solution please come back and tell me!

Hello Marcus, Yes this is definitely a pain. I will definitely let you know if and when something is found. This issue just started happening to me about a week ago. My battery was going dead overnight for no apparent reason. Had the truck to the dealer around a regular maintenance interval ( no warranty) and told them of this situation ( before nothing the white gauge cluster lights being on) they confirmed the battery was in good condition and nothing was found. A few days later ( at night) found the gauge cluster white light came on for no reason, open the door and closed dash light remained on. Found starting the vehicle and shut off would already turn the cluster lights off. This week had the truck back at the dealer and tech reprogrammed the modules and said the problem was fixed ( 280 buck later). Last night found the cluster light on again. The park light is laminated which leads me to believe the park sense switch in the center stick console is fine. Seems like a long road ahead in finding a solution to this problem. Will let you know if something is found.

GuruW3F92 - checking in to see if you have found a solution to this issue? I've been dealing with a dead battery on and off again from this and am hoping you may have figured something out?

I just started having the exact symptoms Marcus posted on my 2013 supercrew fx4 150 3.5l ecoboost. I have the parking sensor switch on order in lieu of doing the whole shifter replacement but visual inspection of the existing one makes me think its not the issue will have same issue as Marcus. Whats interesting is I have the tow package and never used it but I got rear ended a few days before problem started - probably coincidence but maybe not - and it got bent up and needs replacement, however, wires look ok. I was wondering if the housings for the hitch are causing in intermittent short that makes system there is a trailer attached and is on. its a stretch but a thought. have any of you experienced any hitch wiring changes that you didnt think would be part of cause, or, damage, perhaps off roading, or even regular on road, something bounced up and smacked the back side harness with a rock or other and its damaged the harness without you knowing it.

I am having the same problems as Marcus with my 2014 F150. Anyone able to figure this out yet?

Still no solution for me. I haven't been able to find a correlation between the wiring harness and this issue. I would think it has some "programmatic" answer, at least in part. i.e. The turning of the key an extra time without starting the truck has consistently kept the issue from occurring - I can't help but to wonder, what is this action doing? What is the programming of key cylinder doing when the key is turned to this on position? There is something in the programming that must be occurring that would lead us to why this is happening. There must be some Ford expert out there that has an understanding or manual on what happens with each key turn, and could tell us what to be looking for or trying in order to remedy this.

He guys, I have a 2011 f150 with 214,000 miles and I always thought it was an electrical problem. Just bought a new 2018 f150, does the same thing. I’m likely going to ask Ford about it.

GuruB2Y12 - that would be really helpful - as yours is under warranty they can diagnose it at no cost to you. I hope you will let us know - as it'd be great to get this one resolved!

In working with two ford experts this month, I received old news and one possible new thing to look at. Old news: Shift Assembly and switch within shift assembly that indicates vehicle is in park. (I replaced both the switch, then the entire assembly when that didn't work) it didn't solve it for me. New news: It could be another sensor that is by the brake pedal. The test I was told to try is to press the brake pedal when the cluster lights come on and see if the brake lights respond. If they do not - then he thinks that switch is bad. I haven't tested this yet and will report back once I have.

Anyone find a solution or explanation for the white dash lights coming on several minutes after shutting off their truck. My 2011 f150 Lariat 5.0 4x2 with 160k miles has same issue, draining battery. I did a load test and meter shows 7 amps of draw with everything off. My Red P light works fine, my remote start works fine. Wasn’t sure if I should replace the shifter sensor since my P light works, I may try it just to see. By the way, the lights go off as soon as I unlock the truck or open the door.

I talked with the service manager at my dealership. They said that there are a bunch of sensors that can “wake” the truck up. It can commonly be door switches or possibly some other things too. Something activates to make truck think that you are either going to start it, open a door, etc. it was recommended to take the keys out of the truck when you are not using it. That would maybe eliminate the key switch being the culprit??? Not sure. My new truck they believe was because a door latch froze and wouldn’t latch the door to stay closed. They are trying to devise a solution to that, but I haven’t had the problem since ....we’ll see. Nothing to fix at this point. On the 2011...After hearing this information things started coming together for me a little bit. I was having trouble with the rear driver door not registering (dome light or dash lights) when I opened it. One day that speaker went out too. That was my real problem, I love my music. After removing the rubber wire protector between the door and the post (and the layers of electrical tape) I found broken wires. It had happened on both back doors. After hearing this I am wondering if that could be a possibility with my front doors too. A project for another day. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of these soon. Hope this helps some of you. Good luck.

Thanks for the update, I will have to see if I can find any doors that have light/indicator issues to see if mine could be from the same thing. I don’t ever keep my key in the lock but a shorted wire could be the cause.

I tried the trick Marcus mentioned about after turning the truck off, I turn the key back on part way to activate the accessory mode, then shut it off and remove key and the white dash lights don’t appear to come back on, I checked one hour later and again 2 hours later, still not white das lights. Keys are always removed from the ignition and vehicle every night. Nothing is plugged into and 12v/110v/USB. My remote start works fine, all door sensors appear to be ok because as soon as I open any of the doors, the cab lights come on like normal. Trying to figure out what is causing the high current draw from the battery is elusive. Going to try isolating circuits again when I get more time. I’ll post again if I can ever find the cause and solution, thanks Marcus for the tip with the key trick for the time being.

So I spent a little time troubleshooting today. I’ve isolated the power draw to one positive wire that comes of the main fuse box under the hood. The fuse box is fed from a positive wire that comes directly from the battery into the fuse box, but there is another positive wire that is connected to the same terminal and is an outgoing power wire. It’s shown in the picture I posted here. I am getting about 1.5 amps of draw from this lead (I mentioned a higher current draw in my previous post but the meter I was using was not accurate). Anyway, this lead apparently powers most of the electronics inside the cab, but I’m not sure how it feeds into the cab. I tested all other power leads and this is the only one drawing a significant amount of current, all other circuits were minimal milliwatts. I just need to find more time to dive a little deeper. I also checked my alternator today because I heard these can sometimes cause an issue, but no amp draw detected on that. If anyone knows where this red wire that is shown goes, please let me know.

I have a 2010 F150 as well I am having the same issues but well its my blue lights that come on and run the battery down.. i have found out that by twisting the key sometimes the lights go off after turning it off and on then off.. but sometimes i have to actually touch the dash glass and push to shut it off.. weird but nearly same thing .. taking it to the shop tomorrow in hopes of finding out what is wrong ..

2013 Ford F-150, having same problem with guage lights as many have related on this forum. The white (only) guage lights will stay on or will randomly come back on during the night in the garage. Turning the key back on but not starting the engine and then turning back off seems to keep it from happening every time. The problem seemed to start shortly after I adjusted the interior light dimmer switch on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. I have since worked the dimmer switch several times but did not correct the problem. Would like to see any further resolutions to the problem.

The issue continues for me and I haven’t heard anyone say they have resolved it. We will keep hoping that someone will figure it out and post a solution!

I have a 2014 f150 that I’m having the same issue with, the cluster lights come back on after truck is turned off. A few months back I did have to change out the Center console park switch, that fixed my problem with the dash and radio lights staying on. Now it’s just the cluster lights I’m dealing with. I’ve replaced my ignition cylinder because that was worn, and wouldn’t rest in the the correct positions, for example if I left my key in the ignition and opened the door, the door chime wouldn’t sound unless I wiggled the key. After replacing the ignition cylinder, it fixed the chime issue. Unfortunately my lights are still coming on though, now I’m thinking it may be the key position sensor that is mounted over the end of the ignition. Any other input would definitely be helpful.

Joshfx4 - keep us posted if you end up replacing that ignition part. It would be helpful to eliminate or confirm that as a potential fix. That is a new part to try and your answer would be helpful to those of us still dealing with this after several years!

I have a f150 1911same problem.l took it to the shop he changed my master module ,no fix changed my light switch,no fix sent my dash cluster out to be checked came back today no problem with it . Thousands of dollars later same problem.tonight l turned the key back to acc will see tomorrow at

Years later and we are still looking for an answer! Thanks for continuing to post, I hope we can gather more people trying things and find an answer soon!

2011 F150 Lariat. Still not able to determine where the battery draining amp draw is occurring. Same symptoms as everyone else. My work around fix was to purchase and install a remote control battery kill switch. After I exit my truck and lock it, it switch off the battery with a remote key fob. This fix (not really a fix but a work around) cost me $35 for the parts on-line. It sucks because I loose my radio station programming after killing the power, but at least I don't have to manually pull as fuse, and I never have a dead battery after letting the vehicle sit.

I tried turning my key to acc after turning my truck off .seems to work two days so far

The ignition lock tumbler fixed my issues. Going on a couple months now and now dash light issues anymore. Hope this helps.

Joshfx4 - Can you provide the part number so people can see more specifically what you had replaced and determine if that same part (or the corresponding one for their year/model) works for them?

This was a dealer item, as it needs to be matched to your key.

Be sure to have your vin# when ordering part to insure the proper part.

Picture of the part was rejected.... but it’s the ignition lock cylinder, your dealer will be able pull it up for you.

Dave FX4 Same issue with my 2011. Changed the ignition switch and tumbler set. No change dealer had the truck for 3 days and said they cannot find the problem.

Yup same issue changed omron switch on shifter worked fine for a while now white dash bezel lights come on after truck sits for a bit. Have a loose ignition that flashes the dash lights as I insert or wiggle key goona swap that out next.

Have a 2013 same issue same symptoms as the rest, replaced my ignition switch and tumbler thinking that would help no luck CG still white lights, have not attempted the ACC trick Marcus mentioned above, I manually disconnect my negative terminal every night to avoid the dead battery. Uncle of mine works for the local Ford dealership and it’s been in the shop several times multiple days at a time and no solution has been found. From the looks of it y’all wanna meet and have a bonfire using our trucks as fuel? (Joke) may try the acc trick tonight.

It’s frustrating and going on way too long! I’d love to hear if the ACC trick works for you. There has to be a logical reason for this issue!

Hello All, I’ve been living this same nightmare for years without Ford or others solving the problem. The quickest solution that work with killing the battery is after shutting off the key turn the key back to auxiliary and back to off, dash light will not light up killing your battery..... The computer now sees the truck is in park and will not wake up the dash white lights. Been doing this for years!!!!! Hope this helps all

Without killing your battery !!!

This problem just started on my 2013 F-150 as well. I have been removing the negative battery post every night to stop my battery from draining. Any news on what the issue is?

There are two possibilities: 1. The shifter switch in the center console has failed. If the "P" gear indicator on the dash doesn't turn orange when the truck goes into park then the switch is bad. A new one can be had from digikey: the part number is SW721-ND 2. The ignition switch has failed. When the key is inserted, a little cam pushes the lock cylinder toward the center of the steering column. This pushes a rod that presses on the ignition switch module to trigger a "key present" output to the computer. If this switch is failing then the key present signal doesn't go away when the key is removed the dash stays on.