Still goes into limp mode, even after changing throttle body twice, as well as the battery.

Oh gosh - I didn't write any codes down, but each time the Chrysler dealership would tell me throttle body. Thats why we kept changing that part. Iv'e had it flashed and upgraded as well, and then was told the voltage was low in the battery so we put a new one in. It seems to be less of a problem when its warm...I'm ready to 'accidentally' roll it off a cliff ;)

It also has to be relearned with a scan tool at the dealer.That is why it keeps going into limp mode. It has to be programmed to the car.

.... it had been relearned as well... Keep the suggestions coming - I appreciate you guys!

Call the dealer and ask for the codes. They will have a record of them. List them for us. We need them.

None of the dealers wrote the codes down. One of then did note the stereo Best Buy installed was pulling on the battery - not sure is that's important. Would a full diagnostic tell me the problem? I can't seem to get anyone to do that - they read the codes and send me on my way.

Yes have that done and then post the codes here and what they found.

Ok - I have another appointment for the diagnostic on Monday - will get back to you after then. Thank you!

let us know

I will - thanks again for your willingness to help :)

OK. I have read up on this a little. Remove your ECM - Clean the connectors - reconnect to ECM - use 2 long wire/zip ties and run each one across the center of each connector down around the computer and pull tight. Reinstall the ECM and tighten bolts very tight. See if it fixes it.

The active codes were U0187 & P 2101 The stored codes were : B1A25 B1A35 P1684 P2110 P0884 C121C B10AC B1601 B1604

BTW tuff4x4 - they refused to try your suggestion :/

P2101 Throttle Actuator Ctrl Motor Circ Range/Perf C121C TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED U0187 Lost Comm with Digital Disc Player/Changer Mod A P0884 TCM Power Input Signal Interm P1684 Battery Disconnected in the last 50 Starts P2110 Throttle Actuator Ctrl Sys-Forced Limited RPM B1A25 - invalid key BA135 BAD KEY OR WCM/SKREEM Module

From what it looks like you need to have 2new keys programmed and see if this fixes it.

Interesting. This is the first time a key issue has come up.

That is the BA125 and BA135 codes. If this doesn't take care of it I would have the ECM replaced. This could be expensive but from all these codes first it is saying replace keys and next ECM. This is the engine computer which controls all electrical components to the engine. I have read up on the P2101 and there have been many throttle actuators replaced with no change.

Good info tuff4x4! You've been more helpful than the last 5 visits to Chrysler. The dealership here opened a Customer Care account with Chrysler - after I asked for the # to corporate! Just got the car back... will see how it goes. This time they relearned the throttle body since we changed the battery.

Well, just as I suspected, the car is still up to it's usual thing. I'm in contact with Chrysler hoping to get it on a trailer and taken to another dealership 240 miles away. It's the only option, since the mechanics here know nothing, and aren't willing to listen to suggestions. So frustrating!

I agree. I would insist on them making 2 new keys and programming them.

The next thing would be an ECM.

Update: Got Chrysler tech involved - after two weeks and a long list of a process of eliminations, they put in a new PCM, which seems to have done the trick. But now my new battery is dead,(they discharged it) and the climate control blasts air before the engine is warmed up. *palm to forehead *

I had a cracked factory spark plug when this happened to me

Had the same problem after reading all post I found a vacuum leak in the back of my intek fixed leak and have not had that problem it's been 3 months know.dealer wanted to replace throttle body and pcm.

I'm having this problem now & it's been the worst nightmare!! I've changed the throttle body & transmission. I've been trying to avoid the dealer cause I've already dumped so much money into it & nothing is working. It runs good when it's cold but once it warms up it starts limp mode!! Do I need the dealer to reset anything after the tranny was put in? The tranny guy swore that was my problem but it's still doing it. I'm scared to take it anywhere now cause it's been 5 places already & left many people stumped! It's a little relieving to see I'm not the only one, however it seems it could be so many things. I wish it was paid off & I could just get rid of it at this point!!

Jessica - if you haven't read through this thread, do that first. You might find something that helps you. It seems to be a problem with this car. .. I eventually had the PCM changed. It could have been a vacuum leak or some other minor issue - I'll never know lol At any rate, it did resolve the issue. I wish you success!

Hi Jessica thanks for the feedback, I did not get the problem fixed yet but my car is currently at the dealer. They are trying to solve the problem as we speak. I just picked a PCM from ebay. There's a company that remanufactures them and offers a lifetime warranty. Hopefully this will fix my issue, so one I get that installed I'll let you what happens. Hopefully my solution will shed light on your situation. I'll keep you posted as this thing unfolds.

Thanks for your feedback MrFixit23!! Can you tell me what the company name is? I finally dropped it off at the dealer & they said it's the PCM, they quoted me $500 & said they don't recommend a used one cause my mileage is so high but they aren't paying the $500 for me so I'm really interested in knowing who your using. Thanks for any info you can give me!!

Yes Jessica the company is called All Computer Resources here's a link for a 2005 Chrysler 300 PCM, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-INTREPID-Chrysler-CONCORDE-LHS- Engine-Computer-PCM-ECU-ECM-Plug-Play-/120911385593? pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake %3AChrysler%7CModel%3A300&hash=item1c26e153f9&vxp=mtr Good luck hope it works out for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-INTREPID-Chrysler-CONCORDE-LHS- Engine-Computer-PCM-ECU-ECM-Plug-Play-/120911385593? pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake %3AChrysler%7CModel%3A300&hash=item1c26e153f9&vxp=mtr

$500 sounds like a steal - mine was twice that much! :(

Thank you so much!! You have saved me so much money! Hopefully this does the trick!

My Pleasure, please share your outcome with the group that way it may help others in the future. Best of luck Jessica!

Absolutely & I'm anxious to hear how you make out! I'm so glad I came across this site. I've learned a lot & saved A WHOLE LOT more!!

It's been almost 3 weeks & so far so good!! The check engine light us on now & it makes a whistle sound when I drive it for about a mile & then stops but It's much better than it going into limp mode!! Thanks again for the info & I hope it worked for you too!!

It's been almost most a month now with no issues and after 2 weeks at the dealer they finally figured it out. It was the in fact the PCM. Furtunatly for me the PCM was completly covered under warranty by the company All Computer Resources and I was able to get one sent out at no additional cost. This experience has taught me a valuable lesson and that lesson is sometime we can do everything right but forget the most important thing, parts can sometimes just be defective. Always double check your parts and if you have a warranty use it! It feels great to be back on the road hopes this helps others struggling to solve the this problem.

The problem is that Chrysler knows this car has this issue. A PCM should not just go bad and it's a pretty big coincidence that this particular part would be defective in so many vehicles. Too bad there isn't a class action suit on this. There was one on the tires not long after I bought my car (purchased brand new) - the tires barely lasted 7, 000 miles. Yes, you read that correctly.

Maybe I should check into that after dumping $2,000 into this car cause no one could come up with what was wrong until I came across this site. Thanks for the idea Lorisinnevada!! MrFixit23, my PCM, from the same place, hasn't had a problem yet & I hope it doesn't but if so I will make sure to use that warranty! You have no idea how much your info helped me out & I'm so grateful for all your help! I'm glad your driving again like me!! It's a great feeling after 2 months of borrowing cars!! Thanks again!!

Jessica I know how you feel, but that's what this forum is for I'm glad that we can help one another out.!

Had the same problem. changed battery and throttle. Came up with this forum and it saved me. ordered the PCM from the company that you referred to here and its been two weeks and knock on wood! As Jessica said the engine light is on, but I think it is just configuration in the computer. If somebody has this problem it is defentily the PCM. Order the part from EBAY from Allcomputer. Deliever fast and not expensive compare to other places and especially Dealer. Good luck!

I'm having the same issues. Mr fixit23, who put the PCM on for you? I was told only a dealership could do it since it would have to be programmed??

Hi Mandy, I took my car to the dealership and fortunately I was able to get the entire thing done( installed and Programed) for $89 flat which was the Diag. Fee. Be weary all dealshipship are not equal and some will charge you 3 times as much as other so before you commit you may want to shop around and find the best bargin. Wish you the best and please update me and let me know how it goes!

I bought mine off that eBay site he told me about & if you get it from them then they program it for you before sending it & anyone that knows what they are doing can put it in. If not, then the dealership can only do it.

I've had the exact same problems. Replaced pcm and it was good for less than a week and back to limp mode with same problem.

The two most common causes for this issue are the electronic throttle body and a bad replacement Pcm. The exact same thing happened to me and after spending money on a lot of unnecessary stuff I finally diagnosed by the dealshipship and they concluded it was a bad pcm. If you're still experiencing the same issue and your pcm is Warranted I'd advise getting that swapped for another first, before spending money pointlessly like I did. Also when installing the new pcm be sure to check the connections for proper votage. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

OK we replaced our ECU n rebuilt our tranny about a yr ago now its giving us same problem going into limp mode... We replaced the PCU is that the same as ECU n changed the throttle body and its still doing the same thing... I'm very confused what else could it be... The codes are still coming up p0113, p2110, p2101 Jackie

I have same issue on my 350z .. But one article I was reading he said bubble in water pump check that

I had the same issue with my 2006 charger. I found out that I had a EGR tube to intake gasket leak. I taped the connection and that stopped the limp home mode. I did change the TBI and the over spark plug distributors as well, but sure the leak was the problem.

Has any one tried to see if the air intake gasket to EGR was torn, missing. I replaced that and solved my issues with the TBI trouble light. It's just under the fresh air grill in the very back of the Intake.

Egr gasket the one that conectes with the egr valve that was my problem 3 dollars at Napa

I replaced the egr tube seal blue one that connects with intake manifold and pcv valve

Hey did u ever figure out what was the problem because my 300 is doing the same thing

Egr gaskets there's 3 gaskets on total the blue one that goes in the manifold intake and another 2 if you follow the egr valve you will see the connections one goes to the muffle

My son 2006 300 Chrysler is doing SAME THING....just replaced the radiator, pipe, alternator, starter and Ignition coils. SAME LIGHTING BOLT and check engine light comes RIGHT BACK on. Doesn't start up good and giving him a leaking code. UGHHHH....HELP! The auto shop obviously GUESSING and cant fix the problem!

Man all these answers I don't know what to do with mines ‍♂️ I don't want to put so much money into this car but I got it for such a great deal guess I'll start with the pcm and throttle body ‍♂️

Recalibrate the gas pedal sensor

finally got it fixed, throttle body , gas pedal sensor and pcm changed all three car runs fine.

im having the same issue and getting codes u1110 u1120 and u1121. can anybody help me

You should change the engine computer. But it on ebay, its 15 times cheaper. I changed it for my Chrysler 300, after it got changed my car was like new, no problem at all. this is where i bought mine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Programmed-02-Dodge-Intrepid-Concorde-Engine-Computer- ECU-ECM-PCM-P04896226AE-/172592819641?oid=120911385593&autorefresh=true I changed the throttle before and it didnt help. its a computer problem with the 2006-2007 model. when you get the computer, go to a garage and its 5 min to switch it and the car is like new.

Can somebody please tell me if the pcms on that site are legit ??!! I have the same exact issue and need a pcm

had the same problem. it was throwing codes for throttle body and crank shaft sensor. replaced both, still in limp mode, changed pcm, got it already programmed from company listed above. (yes theyre legit) still in limp mode. did however notice that the foam in the intake was deteriorated and pieces were falling into the hole, could that be the issue here

My Chrysler 300 should have been the death of me ... I had the same problem as alot of y'all have . Remember that these plenum gaskets need to be replaced after being tightened then taken off . On the manifold and the throttle body . Then you need to disconnect battery for 15 minutes and then hook back up the negative . Get in car and turn ignition on and wait for throttle body light to go off and push the throttle pedal slowly down to you are all the way and slowly release and take your foot off . This will reset throttle position sensor I read somewhere . After hours of working on this I finally got it and after being put into limp mode while driving . Hope this helps someone because it was a nightmare for me . Oh yeah fuel pumps on this car constantly going out or bad it's not the fuel pumps it's the electrical connector on the sending unit that the pins are easily bendable and will short it out or not make good connection causing fuel pump to not work .

Lightning bolt on dash. It was the egr valve tub gasket that goes into back of plenum, if leaking it will turn lighting bolt on but not the check engine light. Also your egr tube may be junked up with carbon build up that will set this lighting bolt light on to.

I have a 2005 300 Touring and I've read this whole thread and I'm unsure if I'm having the same issue. Car won't shift out of 1st gear speedometer not working goes into limp mode after a minute or so. I put all new and wheel sensors and also changed the conductor plate and have new battery. Now when it goes into limp mode my Speedo comes back on and I get a clicking sound coming out of a small black box attached to the back side of my shifter. Esp bas abs and check engine light on. Did anyone have these same symptoms and was it the Pcm or something else

There's two sensors on the transmission for your shift and speedometer replace them and you will solve the problem shift sensors