2004 Sebring coupe 3.0 losing water - seeing it on top of transmission

Head gasket

How certain are you? Could it be anything else? That sounds like it's going to be costly to replace. Thanks for your help I included some pics

May not be but needs to be checked or look for heater hose leaks down the firewall or other areas, it may be coming from oil leak or the transmission over flow tube on top of trans if it gets hot it may upchuck is what I call it when the tans does that, if the trans is pushing fluid out the top then you need a external oil cooler for it and it may just have done because the radiator is getting too hot and the trans cooling line run in the radiator.

Thank you. I watched the water flooring from the center of engine, from under the manifold, toasts the driver side onto the top of transmission. I'm posting another pic

Was that the intake manifold gasket? If so you may can get by with just the intake gaskets or was it head gasket or freeze plugs?

Thanks for responding. If you look from the side, it's coming from somewhere under the manifold; around the middle i guess. Here is a pic from the side that shows the hot water stains coming from the middle of the engine. My friend thinks it might be o-ring on inlet pipe. to be hones, we stuck a camera probe and couldn't really see where it's coming from. Thanks again for the help

One more thing; the water does not come out of the water reservoir tank like it once did when it gets hot.

The middle of the intake gasket is the weak point.

So I change the thermostat and the ring. the water still comes from the middle of the manifold down that channel. I took my friend's probe and looked through there and noticed what appeared to be 2 small holes. I say "appeared" cause it could have been a stain. I'm not sure what to do at this point, but I'm guessing removing the manifold is in my future. Any suggestions?

I think so too. Be sure to torque the intake bolts down to spec and in-order per a repair manual instructions for your car engine.

Are most repair manuals the same or is there one in particular that may be better for this job? Thanks

A Chilton or Haynes or dealer Chrysler manuals will have the torque spec. The dealer Chrysler manual is specific for your car while the Chilton & Haynes will have some other like cars but may be more informative, All are good, I like to have more than one, plus you want the latest version as techniques advance & tips & test & omitted steps/procedures the latest version will have those updates. I have not counted but I think I have more Haynes than Chilton's but that is because before the dealer manuals became so abundant on Ebay(which made the price go down). My local parts store carried mostly Chilton then switched to Haynes. So a lot of my older manuals are Chilton Manuals. Now that the Dealer Manuals are so cheap on Ebay All the last cars I needed a manual for I found a set of Dealer Books, The thing with Dealer manuals there is not just one like the Chilton & Haynes Books, there is a general & a repair & a spec & trans and so on so if you opt for dealer get the general & repair set at least, both are needed. Basically the one on the shelf at you local parts store is fine.

okay, got the dealer repair manuals for 2003 which were much cheaper than 2004 and still had mostly the same info as the engine didn't change. I changed the water pump inlet pipe. What a mission this was. Didn't resolve the issue. Water still comes from the WP side of the car through the channel and towards the top of the tranny. I'm thinking that it could be either the water pump or the rear housing. Going to change the water pump today. Car started after the water pipe repair, but now tuns rough. Stalls when put into gear. When I went to restart of repairs it wouldn't start. Spray starter fluid in the air intake and got a backfire. I think it may have blown the MAF sensor. (not sure) I took of the distributor and rotated 180 (i think it moved while i had it off and i put arrow facing away from my mark.) the car started right up, but idle was off. Had one loose vacuum hose undone behind the top of the exhaust which made it better once connected. However, it still stalls when in gear or at a stop sign., Haven't gone further than around the block. Any suggestions about the new issue? I used my friend's code reader and have a code of P0102

Thats the MAF, May take Maf Cleaner and spray it off do not touch the filament. Below is a URL with instructions for testing the MAF.

How To Test The MAF Sensor (2.4L, 3.0L Mitsubishi 1999-2004) (or Chrysler Sebring or Dodge Stratus):

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/mitsubishi/2.4L/maf-sensor-tests-1

Would you please help with another issue that I poates regarding the transmission not going into gear. Thank you