Still overheating after EVERYTHING has been done
I'm looking for help with my ghostship of a car. I have literally replaced everything in the heating/cooling system. Let me start from the beginning. My car has 133,000 miles on it and I bought it back in May but it hasn't run since July. She started overheating one day and it has been an issue ever since. We have replaced the thermostat/cap, put in a new radiater, replaced the water pump, put in new cylinder heads, bypassed the heater core, purged all the air out after putting in new parts...none of that has helped. The fans work and there is no oil in the coolant to suggest cracked head. After putting in the new radiater (2nd step), it ran good for 3 days and quit running again. It hasn't run since. BUT, you can idle her all day and she won't overheat. The second you start driving away, she runs way up in temperature. We are at a loss at this point. We need help! She's in mint condition (body-wise) to give up on her. She evens run smooth before she overheats.
I noticed you didnt mention replacing the temperature sending unit. Why wasn't that replaced, that shouldve been first on the list before expensive repairs.
but the car physically overheats. Could this unit cause the car to overheat somehow? Please explain.
if after all these it doesn't work then u need to get it checked at a dealer
Had similar issue with a 2001 Sebring LXi (2.7) and found ultimately that the thermostat had been installed backwards - YES it can be installed backwards!!! I reinstalled the thermostat correctly (bulb and spring towards the engine ) and it instantly ran fine!! Just passing on some hard-won information!
Was your issue ever resolved Gin? I am going through the same thing. just did the head gaskets and still it over heats
I truly understand what you're saying about the Chrysler Sebring I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring when I tell you I've done absolutely everything to the coolant I replace the radiator replace the water pump I replace the thermostat I replace any & everything to do with the cooling system I replaced the bleeding unit somebody anybody please tell me what is wrong with this car it is still overheating..... Suggestions or answers please !
you need a Combustion Gas Leak Detector for Cylinder Head Gasket Check
Once you are confident your head gasket is leaking, head to your local AutoZone, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, Car Quest, O’Reilly, or Bennett auto supply or Prime Automotive to pick up a bottle of BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer or Pour-N-Go. BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer is activated by the temperature differential at the leak point so it only is activated where there is a leak and will not clog or harm the rest of your cooling system. You can also purchase BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer directly from BlueDevil here: Head Gasket Sealer
also if you heather is not blowing hot air when this happen ... that a issue with you faulty water pump. if is a aftermarket try a oem one.
My chrysler is running hot the radiator i believe needs to be flushed cause it has rust in the water no water in my oil and no leaks what could it be
My 2000 Sebring JXI is overheating. What I found was that the radiator fan was not coming on. it ended up being the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENDER. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR. ENGINE COOLING FAN TEMPERATURE SWITCH. TEMP SENDING UNIT. TEMP SWITCH. Part Number: 04671065 this is located near the thermostat and tells the fan when to come on.
Was this a 2.7 engine? And wouldn't a code display on the computer if this was the issue?
The cooling system of these engines should be recalled. It is very difficult to get the air out of the system after replacing any component. Also the computer does not turn on the fans until the engine temperature reaches 215 degrees. If any kind of leak exists the coolant starts boiling out below 215 degrees. A weak hose clamp or an aged system cap will cause the coolant to boil out a little even on a 15 minute drive. Then on a longer drive you blow a head gasket or lock up the engine. Terrible design. Lowering the temperature at which the fans come on to just below the boiling point of 50/50 mix coolant would eliminate this problem.
heres one for you, got all the same problems. and had symptoms of a leaking heater core(foggy windows and wet floor) disconnected the heater core with a looping hose on the eng. car ran fine. desided to try blue devil. so I hooked up the heater hoses and added the blue devil. let it run for the 50mins. and about 10 mins to go she overheated, took it for a ride to see if it made a difference and bearly made it out of the drive way. how can adding the heater core back into a system make it over heat
It took me 6 months to finally solve the problem you have...Chrysler somehow forgot to torque all the head bolts properly. I put a torque wrench test on all my head bolts. They were all good except for the left front corner bolt ( driver side ) which was only at 20 psi. I torqued that to specs plus 5psi. After re-assembly I changed the thermostat to an after-market 160 degree one. ( you have to bring in your old one for them to take the specs from. Chrysler wont sell you anything other than the stock 190 degree one. To be on the safe side I put in a can of head gasket sealing fluid. . The engine has been running perfect ever since and never heats up under the worst conditions. ( uphill at 105f for 19 miles. It has never lost an ounce of fluid and runs smooth as silk. I have put 30000 miles on it since I did the job.
Same thing here. I had given up but look for leaks. Mine was the radiator cap needed changing when hot turn it off and listen for whistling.
This may be helpful
