2012 ford fusion ice cold air that turns hot

I've been having the same issue with my 2012 Ford Fusion. Little over 100,000 miles on it. It started doing this last summer but because of my work schedule I was never able to make it to the shop. It's been acting up more this summer and has made it so I'm unable to drive the car (I'm 37 weeks pregnant.) I took it to the shop back in May and had the freon checked (even though I knew that wasn't the issue because of how it switches from ice cold to hot and will eventually go back to ice cold) but just to check. The mechanic told me that it looked like my actuator blend door was sticking so I had him order the part and replace it. $120 later I still have the same issue. I've been doing some research and it seems like a lot of people have this issue with this particular car. What it seems to be for most people is the AC Evap Temp Sensor that is faulty. The part is only about $25 but the issue is that the sensor is located behind the dash. Because of the placement of the sensor and how the 2012 Fusion is made the center console as well as the dash has to come out. If you take it to a shop they are going to charge an arm and a leg. I'm hopefully going to be replacing the sensor with the help of my father this week. Hopefully this helps you some.

What was your fix i replaced my evap sensor last knight and my issue is still remaining....please respond

My car (2011 Ford fusion) does the same. When it's cool outside, the ac runs forever. But in hot weather, it might blow cold air from 5 seconds to 5 minutes. In super hot weather it's not even worth trying. Maybe 10 seconds max. I can turn the car off and something resets and it will blow cold air again until it switches back to hot. Na donce it switches to hot it stays there. I turned off the ac and had the fan blowing and should of been blowing outside temp. which was about 80 degrees. but it kept blowing full blown heat. I'm gonna change the evap switch sensor and see what it does

I have a 2012 also with 111,000 miles and it does the same thing, we just replaced the sensor and the blender door and it still is not working right.

I found this discussion as my 2011 Fusion suddenly began same thing. I first thought coolant was low, but test would've been $130+! Then suddenly it resumed working! So gave lots of thought. I thought and thought about why the Ford A/C now works, and my deduction is: I'd been using it a lot in Max-A/C which closes the outside air intake. The SENSOR that extends into the air stream that was, like I emailed yesterday, implicated in online groups as malfunctioning BUT we see that people who changed it (high labor $$$) said that didn't work. SO, my belief is that in high humidity like we've had, using Max-A/C causes ice to form on the sensor tip, leading the electronics to default to winter-mode and blasting heat instead of cool air. Since I have run it in "normal" A/C, no problem. Once summer humidty drops, I (MIGHT!) again try Max. Either way, will look for another vehicle in Sept.

I know this sounds weird, but try running the AC with your lights AND Fog lights on. I found this video and it saved my life. I was having the same issue and this fixed mine. https://youtu.be/kq9InunWkPw

I have a 2011 Ford Fusion with a little over 130,000 miles. The same problem as described from everyone else has been happening to me since about May. I went through June & July with it running properly and now this month it started it up again. I took it in and they charged it with freon, which I didn't think it needed because when it works, it's plenty cold enough. I went to pick it up and got in the car and turned it on and it was blowing hot air:( Told the mechanic and he checked that all parts under the hood were working just fine. He then called Ford to ask about it. They both agreed that it might be the 'Controller'. To order that part it was going to be $630. I said no for now. The guy at Ford asked my mechanic if the air conditioner works in the morning. I said 'yes'. Beautiful cold air in the morning when I don't quite need it yet. He told me to try and keep it parked in the shade. Put a shade screen in the window, crack the windows, and keep the console as cool as possible and for the meantime we will see if that helps. I'm leaning towards that it will not, because it will be blowing cold air while I'm driving for a while and then switches to heat. Is the Controller that they have suggested I replace, the same as the AC Evap Temp Sensor that others on here have mentioned or a completely different part?

I wrote on here a week ago (as Guru1T21C) about my 2011 Ford Fusion blowing hot air. I looked up the Youtube video that Samantha had posted and thought I'd give it a try... So far I have saved myself at least $630!!!! I turn on my headlights as soon as I get in my car no matter what time of day (even 105 degree weather) and I have COLD air blowing through!!!! I am crossing my fingers that it continues to work, but so far for the last week, it has worked every time :)

My 2012 fusion did this on the hottest day last week and had been parked in the sun. My husband went to add freon a couple days later but it was fine again. I was thinking that it was an ac issue until this morning when the defroster started blowing warm air as well :(

I had the same problem, took the car to my mechanic and they checked the usual stuff and didn't find a solution Then my mechanic did some research and said Ford issued a service bulletin awhile ago about this. It may be a problem with the aircon system's computer software controls and you need to take the car to a Ford Dealer (of course!!) to re-set the system. Most mechanics don't want to pay for the $$ computer software that Ford Dealers have. I'm trying to get with a local Ford dealer this week, I'll re-post if it fixes my aircon.

After I charged the battery up this issue occurred and I removed the + terminal for 30s which fixed it. 5.5mm nut.

AC and lights are somehow connected though the cars brain, CRAZY I know. But if you turn your lights on, and then your flood lights then start the car with the air on it will stay working, https://youtu.be/kq9InunWkPw

I have the same problem. Have changed multiple things. Will work in cool weather but not when I need it. My lights come on automatically but I will try turning them off. Then turning them on, now I’m taking it that this person above me means high beams when they say flood lights. But going to look up u-tube site also. Love my fusion otherwise and really don’t want to part with it.

If you pull your light switch out, it turns the fog lights on. They need to be on in order for the AC to work but they don't turn on if your high beams are on.

My update: I went to a Ford dealer and paid to have the computer re-set, no fix, didn't do anything except lighten my wallet. I went back to my mechanic and he installed a new blender door (for free) but that didn't fix it either. I took it back to him again and he re- checked the installation and while he was doing that he noticed that if he left the temp control knob 1-2 clicks away from full-on cold, the air con worked. Turn the knob to full-on cold, and it blows hot. So that's where I'm at, we'll see if that solution is permanent or not.

I read the girls post about turning the fog lights on to make the ac keep working and was like no way. I tried it and it worked! Lol ice cold air. Im guessing the computer needs resetting or something but its working now. Go try it, it might work for you. Reminds me of the Rx8 tapping the brake 20 times to reset the ecu. Sounds like a joke but actually does something.

from GuruHCSZ4 Thank you Samantha Wilson! I read your post and thought HUH?!?! However, lol, I also thought "why not-- maybe it creates a voltage drain that resets the damned thing". Now Ran Bush also replied in part "...he noticed that if he left the temp control knob 1-2 clicks away from full-on cold, the air con worked". So I tried BOTH at once and the thing works!! Also, in the center of my 2011's A/C controls is a large round button that turns off ALL of the environmental controls, so in addition to the above I also cycled THAT to off, which I'd never done before. And perhaps doing that (full off) reset the system-- Like most all of you I was running on desperation, so didn't use a clinical approach! Anyway, so far so good and I sure wish you all success. George

I am also having an issue after spending $1,240 on ac to get fixed. Mine blows out hot on hot days and cold on cold days

Turn on headlights an fog lights crank car ac will blow cold air sounds crazy but works

Works for me also. Would love to know how/why! Don’t have the schematics but would be a great “who done it” for a EE.

Last night my ac just quit blowing cold air in my 2012 Ford Fusion with 109k miles in it. Even the outside air was blowing hot. I read all of your comments and quite frankly, thought a lot of your answers were “just a little out there”! Lol. And quite frankly, I didn’t know that if I pulled my light button out, the fog lamps came on. So...2 new things learned about my car. I put the head lamps on, turned the temperature up 2 clicks and tada! AC works!!! Cold air!!! Thank you for all your tips! Much appreciated!

After a few hours of diag. I read this and felt stupid to even try it but I did and it worked! 4 other Technicians said I was full of it. They tried it and could not believe it.

We have an 11 fusion. And if we turn around a corner it blows cold.. but most straight aways and left turns it blows hot... tried everything... haven't tore dash apart to see what all is messed up. But system is charged ..

I have a 2011 and I just went out turned on lights and fog light and bam its working. Thats just nuts but gonna try this at least till the weather gets cold ..

Many times on A/C problems I’ve found that there are actually two or more problems at the same time and it makes testing lead me in the wrong direction. Mine is a 2010 Fusion and exhibits both of the main problems described here. i turn the lights on and according to the thermometer i keep in my ac vent, the supply air temp can, after a long time get down to about 58 so its bearable. My thinking is #1 that the engine coolant sensor is so hot from the sun That it opens up and makes the controller think that the evaporator is ice cold and Turns compressor off. When i turn on the lights, that circuit must add some resistance to the controller or adds power to a circuit and allows compressor to come on. My radiator fan #2 used to come on very loud when I stopped at a light it does not now. That fan runs but after researching the condenser fan sequence of operations l know that it has issues. Dealer told me its doing fine but it never comes on at red lights like it used to. When this issue is solved then it will clear up the tests on the control module, the damper movement and the discharge air temperature sensor and you can see the real issue. BTW you can buy the ac controller for about $150. And its a simple replacement. Just be sure that your engine fan is operating right and keeping the ac condenser cool enough. Its right by your radiator. My career was in air conditioning controls for schools and hi-rise buildings so there is at least a chance that I’ve led you in the right direction. Con. So many times the dealer techs have the training but are short on experience.

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion and it’s doing the same thing. I did turn the fog lights on and it works. But has any one figure it out how to fix it back to normal without using the fog lights?

Thanks Jusredoit. I'm taking notes as I operate the 2011 and the engine coolant sensor is starting to look like it's involved. So, the A/C works fine when the dashboard temp gauge is 1-needle thickness below mid-range; if it's AT that or a needle thickness above, things get grim. Last Saturday AM, few local trips-- cooled fine; still with ambient in 80s drove to MO, 45 minutes. Worked fine. At my daughter's house I opened the hood and felt the V6 would cool down better as it was parked in sun in her drive. Left maybe 1PM, and though temp gauge reached just below mid-range pretty fast, it stayed there on hwy. Cooled a tad weak, but did cool. So I'm now thinking that the permanent fix may be new thermostat and cooling system flush/refill. Manual calls for that in 72 mos or 100K miles. Miles just 77K but for a 2011 the 6 yrs is long gone. Mostly I use the car in AMs, locally, and using the lights-etc "voodoo" fixes the A/C is cold.

I had the same problem. Here's a easy fix. Although this is in our car owners manual under battery, this can be used to fix the ac. Hope this helps you. Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum drivability and performance. To begin this process:1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.2. Put the gearshift in P (Park) (automatic transmission) or the neutral position (manual transmission), turn off all accessories and start theengine.3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. •The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned .When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the transmission may shift firmly. This operation is considered normal and will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time the adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation to its optimum shift feel. If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed ,the clock and the preset radio stations must be reset once the battery is reconnected.

I had the same problem. Here's a easy fix. Although this is in our car owners manual under battery, this can be used to fix the ac. Hope this helps you. Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum drivability and performance. To begin this process:1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.2. Put the gearshift in P (Park) (automatic transmission) or the neutral position (manual transmission), turn off all accessories and start theengine.3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.6. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. •The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned .When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the transmission may shift firmly. This operation is considered normal and will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time the adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation to its optimum shift feel. If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed ,the clock and the preset radio stations must be reset once the battery is reconnected. I think I also turned the temp knob from cold to hot 10 times too. Anyway my ac is always blowing cold now.

i had the same problem, what worked for me is that if i set up the the cold up to 100% is when it turns to hot after a few minutes, but if i leave it at 98% or 99% it stays cold, hope this helps

I had my AC quit...hot air only in my 2011 fusion. Tried the lights on thing, and it worked. (cold air)...Watched a guy pull the evaporator sensor on his on utube...the tip or point was corroded and thinned..problem is, it takes hours to remove the dash, etc to get to it. Saw another work around, of jumping 2 wires in the connection (blue) to bypass the module. The connector is right behind the glove compt door when you drop it down...For noe, I shall stay with lights on when it is hot...

I just had a 2012 fusion in the shop I work at today that was having the same issue. I would start it and run the ac, get 30 secs away and then the temp door would divert to heat. I saw the video about the headlights and fog lights and decided to try something else to see if it would work and found that if you cover the ambient light sensor (which is located on the top center of the dash) with black tape you wont have any troubles. You can have the headlight switch in any position you want and the blend door stays under your control.

Over the past few weeks I have come to feel that the tip from Guru3R2YG solves the BASIC root of the problem. So yes-- I had changed the battery myself prior to the onset of the problem, and unlike getting it done at an AdvanceAuto or similar where they provide trickle power to keep settings, my battery had catastrophically failed; totally dead. It makes sense that the thing needed to be full-cycled (I could hear the blend door work as air temp rose/fell); since then it seems to have again "realized" that "Hey- I'm an air conditioner." Outside temp seems an indirect cause, and I'm going to have the coolant flushed and a new thermostat and radiator-coolant-sensor installed soon as I can afford that, but in next week or so. When indicated coolant temp is at or below half-scale, all's OK; the second it goes even a needle-thickness ABOVE that, things can get iffy.

So I have a 2012 ford fusion I got a after market radio installed then about 3 days later started having this exact issue. It works perfectly at night from what I've experienced . As soon as I turn the car on it works then I hear something maybe closing off then it blows hot . I think my serpentine belt may be loose or one or both tension pulleys may need to be changed not sure if this has anything to do with the ac.. I just tried the fog light thing but it didnt work until I turned off the max ac button. I had no idea the light button even pulled out until today.. I love this car but it's a pain in the but first it was the throttle body now the ac one thing after another. And it seems to be things many people with the same car are having issues with .. Ford needs to honor its cars defects and stop making cheap parts ..

My a/c does work on my 2012 Fusion with headlights on , does any one know how to fix the problem ?

After 2 years of issues I think we have finally found the answer. The control head to the knobs. I don't know how much it cost as I ended up getting it done for free. How this helps

2010 Fusion with same problem as this thread. The car belongs to my little old lady neighbor. I am not young though, was a mechanic for 20 years, 20 years ago. I have been an electronic technician for the last twenty. Was asked to add some freon, so I hooked up the guages, noticed the low side was around 29 lbs, high seemed ok at 225, and ambient temp was about 85 deg F. I was suspect, but lady said she got a little extra freon last year and it helped. As I crack a can open and crack open the low side valve, I notice the low side goes back to 29 lbs everytime I stop adding, and the high side is going higher. High side is not getting too hot and the air flow is good through condenser, but its pressure is going over 300 lbs. I check the interior, the vents are blowing hot air! Was blowing cool when I started. I realize this is not a typical problem, indeed it is nuts! After several more checks I realize the blend door had a mind of its own and would seem to default open after 30 seconds of turning on system, like everyone else, I replaced it. To my surprise it opened again! After noticing it worked fine only after turning off the car, re keying it, it would home itself, and work again! but only for a short period! Re key the car, turn off the ac, turn on the heat, hey it works again. Also I can control it nicely (on heat) with the manual heat knob (should have tried that before I bought the new one!). While scratching my balding head, I peruse these threads, realise I'm not the only one with this issue. I considered my sanity before I tried the headlight trick, and to my shock found this to work, but only if turned lights on before ac. The stupid blend door would screw up when I turned them off, and I had to turn off car (to re-set blend door) to get the trick to work again. While this was cute it did not fix anything. I had no reason to believe evaporator sensor was open or shorted since the compressor never shut off and I had no codes, but that sensor nagged at my mind constantly. I searched local junkyards for a used control head, found none, so I bit the bullet, ordered the dash hvac control unit at Autozone. While waiting checked the ohms on that temp sensor (not 100 percent sure was on the correct pins as I didn't have a schematic, but I found some stuff on u-tube), 40k ohms seemed ok ( I Bought a new one and tested its range 20k hot to 80k ohms at 32 deg F). figured it was good. Cleaned out the very dirty cabin air filter, I thought that might fix it since my symptom of low pressure on low side was an indication of possible low air flow? Nope, didn't help. So on the third day of this project, I pick up the new control head, put it in, and wow it is working! for about twenty minutes? What? I call Autozone and they assure me they still have my old unit (it was a $200 core), and they would refund me if I came back.....whew that was $250. So I put the old one back in. Back to square one. I tell the voices in my head that want to keep changing parts to be silent while I go back to the basics and figure out what I missed. 1.low pressure is too low, but air flow seems to be good 2.more than enough freon ( I even took a little back out as I was worried about pressure being too high on a hotter day) 3.many people have same problem on same make of car, Ford doesn't care. Maybe they don't understand it either? No, they don't care. 4. blend door seems to open on purpose, coincidently when the evaporator reaches 32 deg F, or lower! Wait, why didn't I focus on that from the beginning? Even if I fixed the problem of this blend door (which I now believe opens as it is supposed to, if evap core runs below freezing temps), I will not have fixed the low pressure problem. How can I get warmer air to evap core? before it faults out. Because once it faults and the heat is pouring out the vents, you have to turn off the car to get the door to home again! First, I want to trick the sensor, so I put a 20k ohm resistor in parallel across the wires in the blue plug (see u-tube videos for this). this should be just enough resistance to fool the sensor by a few degrees. I believe something similar to this happens when you turn on the headlights, when the night indicator bulbs come on on the head unit, it changes the resistance to the sensor just enough to fool it a little bit (just a theory). This is no fix for the low pressure, so I hook up the gauges, turn on the ac, turn OFF the max ac, turn OFF the recirculation button (the one with the arrows in a circle), and run the system. This way I am getting some outside air to the core right away. Now I watch the gauges while it is running, the pressure on the low side crawls up to an acceptable 36 lbs. Switch to max ac, crawls back down to 29 lbs, switch off max/recirculate and pressure goes up to 36. Give car back to neighbor! So my belief is Ford engineered this system poorly, and runs a little bit too low on low- side. Would a new expansion valve fix it? doubt it. Is the evap core the wrong size for this system? IDK? is there too much oil in system and pooling in evap core? Is the 134a contaminated? My guess is we will never know. I hope this helps someone, sorry I went so long. May God Bless You!

2010 Fusion Sport 3.5L. Long story short, setting my temperature control just one click above full cold did the trick. I had already changed the blend door and mode door motors (both were actually bad) and tried other things. Read this thread And saw the headlights trick and temperature control trick. Tried them both and voila, the temp control won. Headlights didn’t make a difference. Turn all the way to full cold and about 20 seconds later the blend door defaults to about the center position. Turn it just one click off of full cold and about 20 seconds later, nice cold air. I am guessing the full cold setting is just outside of the range the control unit wants to see so it’s defaulting to mid position. ‍♂️ Either way, that’s what worked for me and didn’t turn out to be such a short answer.

I found this video on you tube. The mechanic updated the HVAC module with his computer and the AC now works properly. Hope this helps you. Link>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdCdKoQsu9E

I have been having the same problem and when my AC is on, sometimes it blows the fuse. i tried the fog lamps with the AC on and WOW...I have AC now and no blown fuses. What about driving at night? Can I turn my regular lights on with the AC, or no?

I have been having this same issue and tried the headlight trick and pulled the fog lights out. It works for about a few minutes and switches back over to heat. If anyone else has tried anything please let me know!

I am having the same issue. Started after replacing battery. Temporary fix is to not turn temperature knob on full cold (set to 1-click before). The reprogramming of the control module is most likely the solution. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdCdKoQsu9E

turn the temp knob one click away from the highest setting, and in about 20 seconds you should have cold ac.

Mine has been running fine since I did what Guru3R2YG answered 10 months ago. Namely, after a battery change without trickle-chage to keep settings in the car, he turned the temp knob from cold to hot 10 times, cycling it slowly. So, put car in park and start it; let it warm up; put the A/C temp control 2 clicks ABOVE coldest per Samantha's post; THEN cycle the temp control from full cold to full hot 10 times. You should be able to hear the blend door move, and of course sense the temp blowing out. After 10 such cycles, turn off the center climate control button, then turn off car. Next startup, turn the climate button on (1 push in does off/then next is on-- it's a push button toggle).

2012 Fusion here and it just started blowing heat with the AC on last week (never had an issue before that). The 10 cycle thing didn't work for me. 2 clicks off full cold, that's what worked. I tried it a few times (full cold - blows heat, 2 clicks off full cold - blows cold) and it works every time. There is indeed a calibration update from Ford, but it's pay their $150 hourly rate and argue with them or just ride 2 clicks off full cold for free.

So if anyone wants to know what the actual issue of the blend door moving on it's own I have found it. Well someone else found it and I decided to share here. It is the actuator for the blend door. This is a common issue in all fords after they made one actuator for all of their vehicles. The actuator looses position on either end of the range. When it looses position it starts 'hunting' moving small amount back and forth to find its position. sometimes it will find its position and that's why you at times have longer spells of it working properly. By moving the temperature control up two notches it moves the actuator away from the far end when tge contacts are bad and it can keep its position. Same scenario for the fog/headlight trick. It changes current draw enough that the actuator doesn't loose position. This link describes this as well. Yes this is on an escape but it is the same on the fusion and almost every other ford of these years. https://youtu.be/uR- SfUKRgpM This video describes the failure. https://youtu.be/sQ2afrTj1xY Hope this helps you guys. Glad I found this info to get my customers car back on the road properly.

2011 fusion almost 80k miles, just started the blowing hot air, after changing our parts and checking fluids, recharging and checking compressor all works well so I tried the headlights and it seems that may be the fix. My question is, if this is some electrical issue, have there been any concerns or problems with running it for long periods of time? I have to take a road trip soon for about 5/6 hours with kids and a dog and I want to be sure there aren’t any problems that can happen with this that I’m not aware of. Haven’t had issues running errands but at most I’m driving 20 min at a time.

I'd suggest also doing the drill of turn car on, turn entire climate system OFF (unmarked center push button), with car idling turn climate system ON and then cycle the control deliberately but neither slow nor fast from full hot to full cold pausing to hear the diverter door move and the air temp change (of course you need blower on, I used setting 2). Cycle it 10x that way and if the air temp responds, good sign. After 10x, set temp control 2 clicks up from max cold, turn climate system OFF, turn car OFF. My 2011 has behaved OK after I did that drill last September. And knock-on-wood thus far has been fine on corca 50 miles runs to see family+ grandkids. Good luck! I miss my 1962 Oldsmobile! My son and his wife have a 2017 Ford Escape and the sensors and related controls suck!

LOL..2012 Fusion S... 87000 miles....Last week I experienced the same AC problem discuss....AC air turns hot after a few minutes on...I was about ready to trade the sucker in, when I came across this discussion... LOL...,So I figured , what the hell, Ill try the suggested remedy...turned the temp nob only 2-clicks and turn on the headlights...THE FIX WORKS PERFECT!