shuts off while driving

Unfortuneately the issue u have has a multitude of possibilities that would need to be monitored by a capable tech while driving the vehicle...best suggestion is to have the vehicle diagnosed by a reputable repair facility so that u don't go thru the hassle of replacing multiple parts before finding the culprit. newer vehicles have a array of wiring and electrical parts that may fail out of no where and intermittently. sorry but this is the best help i can offer today

I have a 1996 JXI, too, and had the same problem. It was a defective sensor. Unfortunately, it could have been any one of several so the mechanic had to keep the car, reset the codes and drive it around for a while each day until the event happened. Then he switched out the sensor and now all is well. It cost about $165.00.

I had the same problem a couple of years back. I brought it to the dealer, and they said it was the "crank shaft sensor." The dealer cost around 350 or so. Clearly the majority of the cost was for labor.

I had the same problem on my 99 sebring jxi it was the cranksensor . The part cost around $80 at autozone and was a very easy driveway swap. One screw and one electrical connector. Just make sure you leave the little piece of material on the end of the sensor, it gives the correct spacing when installing and will wear away on its own.

Oooops replied to the wrong thread sorry, Let's try again. I had the same problem on my 99 sebring jxi it was the cranksensor . The part cost around $80 at autozone and was a very easy driveway swap. One screw and one electrical connector. Just make sure you leave the little piece of material on the end of the sensor, it gives the correct spacing when installing and will wear away on its own.

My car is a 96 LXI and Im having the same problem, due you think that could be it?

I have the same problem with my 2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, but mine does not start again right away. I have to let it sit for different amount of times before it will start again. Someone told me it might be the timing belt has slipped.

we have a 2005 sebring that will stall out at the stop sign but start up again and also while driving it will suddenly only go 40 miles an hour until I pull over and restart the car. I have been told the computer needs replacing. Also possible the timing belt and we also read it could be the map sensor. Has anyone had the issue with the car going only 40 miles an hour or so no matter if it is floored?

I have That same problem Margaret input new spark plug new qualls now a water outlet

Hi i just bought a 2005 Chrysler sebring and it starts and drives but will not get to much speed and will shut off as well theres no engine lights on once i got home it wont start but it sounds like it wants to.

I have a 99chrysler sebring lxi coupe and everytime I stop it shut off

I have a 2002 Sebring 2.7 convertible and it will start....I will let it run in the drive way then after about 5 minutes it stalls. Sometimes it will restart and sometimes it will only crank. I have replaced the Camshaft Positioning sensor, Crankshaft positioning sensor, I have also had to replace the connector that plugs into the crank sensor because even though the plug looked ok it wasn't. I also found a slight cut in the wire and it only had like 2 strands of wire connecting it. replaced that. Drove great for a day. NOW, its doing it again...what sensor could it be? I am a single, handicapped father of three great kids. two of them are auto mechanics and I have been turning a wrench for 30 years and has me stumped.....HELP!!!!!!

I have the same problem with mine. I have the very same year n model as u n everything and I had to go through so much to fix it. I did and everything was good till wat ur saying is happening to your car is happening to mine now. Did u ever figure out wat it was if so plz tell me I don't know wat else to do. If I figure it out also I'll let u know. My name is Ramon thank u.

Ramon, I have NOT been able to figure it out. I have so much into this car that I couldn't get rid of it cause I wouldn't get the money back. Here is what I have done so far: camshaft positioning sensor, crankshaft positioning sensor, all new timing chain, new guides, new tensioner, New Map Sensor, New MAF sensor, new Idle air control valve, and all new motor mounts, new radiator(Was leaking, figured what the heck) We had just finished going through the wiring on the camshaft positioning sensor and the plug looks questioning. We started the car, and let it run for about 20 minutes in the drive way. Long enough to have the radiator fans come on...then we shut the car off. If I tried to start it right after it would have started right up. so I let the car sit for 30 minutes, went out to try and start it and it wouldn't stay started. The only thing I have not done is fuel pump but it doesn't act like that. I will let you know Ramon if we finally get it figured out. Its my only vehicle so I have to get it fixed.

Oh, and what is really nerving is it isn't throwing any codes. When it does throw a code it is the "P1391" which is the generic Camshaft/Crankshaft positioning sensor......They are new. I think the car throws those codes because it is just wanting to confuse me more.

My daughter has a 2003 and it is doing the same thing. We are limited in figuring out what the issue is. Anyone that has suggestions would be great. Is the camshaft positioning sensor an easy fix?

Hello Guru5SBSH, I need to know what size engine your daughters car has:? if it is the 2.7 L V6 then I can tell you they are a hand full. I have had problems with mine for the last 5 weeks. I think I have finally figured out what can fix my engine. I have replaced, the timing set, the Cam and Crankshaft sensors, the MAP sensor, the Temp sensor, the intake and plenum gaskets, radiator, thermostat, Idle air control valve, Throttle positioning sensor. After doing all this and getting more grey hair each and everyday, Resetting the PCM by removing BOTH battery cables looks like took care of my problem. The PCM was holding the old settings with the old sensors and kept doing the whole thing. So, You need to know what engine, your daughters car has and I can help you from there. Sorry

Ramon, If your still having the problem and you have replaced the Cam and Crankshaft positioning sensor then what I did with mine may help. To delete the internal memory in the PCM, I unhooked both battery cables for 30 minutes. When I re-hooked them, I started my car and he ran GREAT. No stalling, no stumble, smooth Idle, responsive when I hit the gas. I kept him running in my drive way until the radiator fans came on cause that use to cause it to die...It didn't.....I hooked my fancy meter up saw the graphs and it told me nothing in the ECU and the PCM was good also....Good Luck and let me know if I can help some more

M daughters car is a 2.7. I believe that her father replaced the cam shaft sensor and the thermostat housing this summer. She’s away at college and it’s hard to try and help her from far away.

I can understand that Guru5SBSH. Being away and trying to figure out the problem is difficult. My car is still running great. What I did also even though the car is a Chrysler I called Mitsubishi and asked them about the Engine. The man I spoke to started laughing then quit...I told him the car, the year and the engine and he said YEP, I knew it was the 2.7 your talking about. He said the most common to cause the Cam and CrankShaft sensors are the wiring used when manufacturing the car was not the proper size. He said the most common thing is the shielding on the wires melt, get connected to another wire and short out. Check under the thermal Wrapping and I bet you find the reason why the sensor went out. I did that even though my car is still doing great but when I removed the shielding tape, YEP, two wires shielding had got hot and melted together and it shows bare wire.... Good Luck and let me know.

Ok here is our problem. We have a 1997 the battery light keeps coming on. Alternator has been checked it is fine. New Battery put in connector to the alternator changed. We are stumped sometimes it is in on sometimes off. It is actually draining all the power. Someone told us maybe the computer is erasing itself?? Any ideas

The only was a computer can erase itself is when the battery is completely disconnected. Ok you had a new battery installed but did anyone check the battery cables or the connectors to the battery? If you have a Sebring 2.7L then the possative battery cable has a split in it because it goes to two different places. When I was having troubles I checked my cable and part of the insulation was warn down and I had an exposed wire rubbing against a piece of metal and it was draining my battery. It was grounding out. You may want to have someone check the cables and the connectors.

And to answer my help request. When my 2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L V-6 was stalling, studdering, misfiring and being hard to start when warm, well It is now FIXED. I had gone through everything and spent time replacing a lot of parts. Timing set, Camshaft positioning sensor, Crankshaft positioning sensor, MAP, Temperature sending unit, radiator, Intake manifold gaskets, Plenum gaskets, throttle body gasket, spark plugs, replaced Cam and Crank sensor connectors, MAP connector, and a whole bunch of things. This car with the 2.7L engine has 4 (Four) Oxygen sensors, I had replaced three of them.. I decided to bring the one that was not replaced and swap it with the one in front of the engine., I put a new one back in its place. Well, when I connected the battery back up, started the car and it ran great. NO Sputtering, NO hard start, NO misfire and nothing. I hooked up my meter and saw the O2 Sensor was dead. Nothing coming from it. With an 02 Sensor is bad and it is in the down stream position(After the Cat) then it will cause the PCM to think there is a short and cause your engine to sputter, misfire and stall. Good luck and I hope this helps someone.

Hey califHarry, I am going through the same exact thing. I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.7 motor. And it's doing everything you said. I changed half of everything you said. I'm getting my computer changed on it today. Please help.

I can tell you that some of the other information I have received on here wasn't what was wrong with my car. I basically rebuilt the engine and it did the same thing. I took my car to a friends shop that has the special computer and found out the computer had a bad diode NOT allowing the crank and Cam sensor receive a single intermittently. I bought a rebuilt PCM from a place online and paid $200 for it and it was sent to me all programed, had my VIN # in it with the miles. I installed it and I have NOT had a problem since. I would recommend that you don't buy one from the dealer for $1,000's this computer I purchased has a lifetime warranty and I am happy with it. Nataly, don't let people get you running in the wrong direction.....Have the computer tested to make sure....They don't have computer testing equipment to test the PCM.... Let me know if there is anything else I can do.... CalifHarry

Had same problem changed everything and come to find out was just a 34$ egr valve literally took 5mins to swap

Guru VLSXX I am glad yours was only an EGR valve. I had replaced mine already and it didn't help. The 2.7l engine is known to do this. And as an update, My car is still running awesome. Passed smog with flying colors, so don't give up. Have faith and know you will get it figured out.

CaliHarry, I was so impressed with all your hard work and answers to all the problems of this car. And you managed to fix it. So many people have the same problems with these cars as I am. My problem is I am a single grandmother raising 2 of my grandsons on a very low income, and this is our only transportation. I have a 2000 convertible chrysler sabring. It it's so stressing we get stranded all the Time. Car will drive then dye and won't start. Have to let sit your or overnight to start and drive again. Was all your parts real expensive? I need to find someone tho work on my car but know nobody that does. But your advise is the best ive had so far. I'm sitting right now stranded .going to leave my car overnight again. I don't know very many people here so it's hard for me yup find a ride when broke down. I will try and do what I can tomorrow under the hood looking for the burnt wires and such.already did the battery thing. Thank you Harry

Hello MiMi Carla59. Thank you for the nice words. It was driving me crazy trying to figure this car out. I have been turning a wrench for over 30 years and I have to say this car kicked my behind. I got lucky because my youngest son and I are certified auto mechanics. I have been ASE certified for years and this car STILL beat me up. HA HA. Ok, the parts weren't really that bad in cost. Total cost WITH the new PCM was about $600. That also included the machine shop work I had done. The first thing I would recommend Carla is take your car to an independent shop and tell them you need your car SCANNED on there computer and have them make sure they check the PCM (Main Computer), I kick myself because I thought from the beginning mine was the computer but I kept listening to the Chrysler dealer and there wrong information. If your car has the 2,7 Litre 24 valve DOHC( Double over head cam). These cars are very known to do this. What do you expect, the are a foreign engine. Mitsubishi...... It will be very worth it having it scanned. It cost me $90 for my scan and found the computer had a bad circuit in it. A relay-type that would stick open and that is why I was getting the my code. The stalling has to do with either the cam positioning sensor or Crankshaft positioning sensor. They are the cheapest parts but before you do this.....Have the engine scanned. It will save you a BIG headache. Let me know if I can help more. Harry

Hi harry, thank you for your answer. Some people tells me it's the alternator the battery seems to be slowly draining. What do you think about that? I still will take your advise and have it checked on a computer .I think the labor is going to be a lot. Your lucky to have 30 yrs experiance as a auto mechanic.. Saves you a lot , besides the hard work put in. Bless you for all your advise..MiMi

CalifHarry, can you PLEASE give me the site you found the refurbished PCM? My car has been having the same issues for over 6 months. I'm so broke and so upset I can't stand it. I've turned to youtube for answer since chrysler can't seem to figure my car out. I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance!

MiMI_Carla. No, the labor for checking it on the computer is all in one. The standard cost to check the system is usually 1 hour of there labor charge. I don't know what state your in but the normal here for an independent shop is $90 an hour. Just make sure Carla when you take your car in make sure they understand that you want to make sure your PCM (Cars Computer) is fully diagnosed. My car did the same thing Carla, my battery ran down and I replaced them both but found out it seemed that way because the PCM was receiving mixed signals and caused it to not work right. If your car is doing the same thing as mine and you have changed the Cam and Crank Positioning sensors, then I can almost say there is a mixed and intermittent signal from the computer. I hope this helps. Feel free to write if you need any more help. Thank you

Sebring 08. The name of the company is Car Computer Exchange and the URL(Web site) is:https://carcomputerexchange.com/?vwo=va1&cSearch=FIND+COMPUTER&year=2008&model=Sebring&make=Chrysler&act=viewCat. I tried to send you a photo of the actual PCM your 08 Will take. Let me see if I can send it again, Ok, wont let me send the photo for some reason so here is the information for your computer for an 08 Sebring. it is: Just Put it in and Drive, no need to visit the dealer! 2008 Chrysler Sebring ECM PCM Engine Control Module Read 1,126 5-star Reviews on Google+, Facebook SALE: $245.00 Old Price: $306.00 YOU SAVE $61.00 Select Your Warranty (Unlimited Support): • Lifetime Warranty FREE Available Quantity: Not sure if this is the right part? CALL +1-800-229-3978

CalifHarry I'm still trying to figure out how the communication works for this site but I did get your information and thank you SO much!!! My car has been having issues for over 6 months. It shuts off on its own, engine light comes on and engine throttle body light but I can put it in neutral and restart it. But it has also begun to shut off and not restart for up to 5 mins so its unsafe to drive. My mechanic thought it was the fuse box. he got me one from a junk yard for $100 but chrysler wouldn't set it to my vin. They told me I had to buy a new one for over $1,200. I did not. So my mechanic is pretty much sick of this project as he does it on the side of his full time mechanic job. I took it to Chrysler. they had it off and on for 2 wks. They said it was the aftermarket remote starter and security system on it...didn't know I even had those. So they took them out. They also said since the car stops and no lights come on when I try to restart it, its the ignition switch. So I scraped together $350 to pay for all this. It ran for 2 wks then started doing the same damn thing again. But during that time they mentioned the (if I remember correctly) the transmission tried to communicate with the engine and the PCM didn't respond. when my mechanic had it he got a code U0100 loss communication with ECM/PCM. So the next thing they were going to look at was the PCM. I have turned to google and youtube to figure this out myself. I know exactly where my PCM is and I will attempt to change it out myself. I also have had a gascap light on that won't go off. I tried a new cap and I even tried to put packing tape around the new cap where it connects to the car for any possible leak. Didn't change it. The code was P0457. Engine light comes on too. So after youtube, I slightly touched hoses by the air canister and the code changed to P0456. These hoses are right next to my PCM. I'm wondering if these issues are connected? By the way, I'm a female with no car experience except for youtube. :) Thanks again!!!

I bought my 2004 Chrysler Sebring Touring in March of this year. Ever since, it has just shut off and will crank right back up. 1 mechanic was stumped, and then just this week, I took it to another shop due to the car not wanting to crank & rumbling. I needed ball joints/control arms replaced anyways, but the diagnostic test came back as a misfire. Replaced all 6 spark plugs - it runs much better, BUT it's shut off TWICE since getting it back at 5pm yesterday! It does it when stopped, while idling, when coming to a stop, it also does it when I slow down to make a turn (IE, this morning I went to turn into a parking spot, it shut off, last night, I was at the stoplight and it shut off - both times it starts right back up). It does not feel safe AT ALL and I have 2 kids to worry about! It's so weird, because no one seems to know what it is. As it shuts off, the oil light comes on, the radio will stay on also. It's unsettling and makes my anxiety shoot through the roof!

I have a 2005 sebring convertible that is doing the exact same thing. Stalling and jeking and then cuts off. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor already and it still does it. I did not however take the battery cables off for the 30 mins suggested. Should I just go and get the PCM and change that next and then take the battery terminals loose for 30mins next to get straight to the real problem?

What I would recommend is take your car to a mechanic that you TRUST. Have them gook up the computer to complete a FULL scan. Not just a diagnostic scan. If your PCM is faulty they have to scan the PCM or ECM and it will give them the answer. I took mine to a friends garage and he scanned MY PCM and found a bad relay inside that would open up when the engine was hot and cause the PCM to scramble. Then when it cooled off the PCM would work fine until it warmed up again. The normal cost to have the PCM scanned is around $80. I think it is WELL worth the piece of Mind that it will help with. I changed my PCM through an online company that offers a lifetime replacement as long as you send them your old one in exchange AND the program the new PCM with your exact mileage and your VIN number in the new PCM. That alone saves you about $1,000 from what the dealer would charge. If you purchase a PCM from the dealer they even charge to put that information on the new PCM.... Let me know. Good Luck

298kennel …. Now remember I am speaking about the 2.7L engine I have had to deal with. If this is your same engine then I would do what I had suggested. You understand, without me actually visually hearing and seeing your vehicle I am only going by what you have explained to me. And I will say it is what my car did for 6 months...…so I am confident in what I am suggesting.

CalifHarry, It is the 2.7L engine that I have. Thanks so very much I did replace the CSP sensor also and still no luck. Next step is what you suggest in taking to a trusted mechanic and have them to put a scan on it.

I am glad I can help 298Kennel. I wish you luck. Trust me, I had grey hairs growing each day I would try and figure it out. I have been turning a wrench for over 35 years and it kicked my rear end. I am just glad I knew someone that had the computer for me to have it diagnosed. Please keep me informed and if you have any questions please feel free to contact me. I will do what I can to help.

CalifHarry, what scanner was used to scan the PCM? Was it a DRB III?

PatriciaAA…..Honestly, I am not sure what meter or computer he used to diagnose my PCM. I wasn't paying attention. It was a WI-FI system and it and it showed like a relay inside that would work when it was cold but once it warmed up it would like open and cause my car to play havoc. I saw the reading on the scan tool but I am sorry I can not remember the meter he used. I will try and get down to the shop and see if I can get the information for you. Sorry PatriciaAA.

I would also like to add, the motors in most Sebring's, they have a 2.2 4 Cylinder, they have a 2.7 V=6 and they have a 3.0 V-6. ONE thing I can say about them is they are NOT Chrysler Motors. They are manufactured by Mitsubishi Motors. Chrysler uses there motors. I know many of you knew this but the ones that didn't should know instead of only calling Dodge dealers you can call Mitsubishi Dealers also. I have found information from them when I was going through all this. They were actually more helpful then the Dodge dealers. I hope this information is helpful. Thank you and good luck

Califharry i have a 98 Chrysler sebring. Has issue of stalling at random points had cranck sencer. Mass air flow cap and rotor on distributor new intake. Will idel but when i hit the gas it stalls out. But only a cople of times it didn't stall out had to catch it a an exact time. Any ideas what it could be

Ok Hello Ramy. Is the engine a V6? 2.5 Liter? IF it's a 4 cylinder I would recommend having it hooked up to a diagnostic machine. Those 2.4 Liter motors are known for bad fuel delivery systems and could need a fuel filter or fuel pump. If its a 2.5 Liter V6 then I hope you don't have any grey hairs because after you go through this problem you may find some on your head. HAHA.... I have to ask some questions first Ramy. Is the vehicle a convertible? is it a 4 or 6 Cylinder? If it is a 4 Cyllinder, is it the 2.0 or the 2.4 Liter? Those questions will help me give you the correct answers.

It is a convertible v6 with the 2.4

Ok and before I go giving advise. It is a V6 2.5 Liter. The 2.4 liter is a 4 cylinder. LOL. That car has a throttle body with an injector inside of it. Those can be a pain in the back-side. What you are describing to me sounds like you have a restriction in the fuel delivery. I see you changed the Dist. Cap but did you replace the rotor and spark plugs? Have you replaced the fuel filter recently? When you replace the Dist. Cap you should replace these other things along with it. They are all connected. Check your spark plug Wires. See if there is any cracks in them. Check around the throttle body and make sure the vacuum hoses are not torn or cracked and they fit tight where they go. From what your describing, it doesn't sound like something very serious. It could just be warn out things. The first thing I would do is check the rotor under the new cap. Pull a couple spark plugs out and see if they are burnt or just warn. Don't pull two plugs out side by side. Pull one from the front and one from the back. Replace the fuel filter if it has been longer then 12,000 miles or 12 months. Let me know what happens. Good luck It would be so much easier if I was standing in front of the car but that isn't available. I am going by what is being said.....

Hi, I have 1996 JXi Conv 2.5 V6 with same issue, Randomly shuting down while driving. All sensors were ok, Only faulty component was the AutoShutdown Relay. Replaced that and no issues anymore.

@CalifHarry..2000sebring jxi convertible..no matter how many times it stalls or shuts off and restarts itself (while lurching the car) contant sputtering yada yada the stupid engine light wont stay on it will flash or stay on for a few minutes ive even had it flash just like a turn signal at times but still no code the one time the light stayed on long enough i made a mad dash to a certain auto parts store to have them read the code and it wouldnt communicate with their reader poor guy tried three times wouldnt even tell them the mak or model of vehicle just nothing. So of course i thought okay the obd plug isnt working maybe replace fuses sometimes that works..nope same thing car drives like hell tries to kill me by stalling or jerking on freeway and still no code mechanic said drive it till it dies its not worth the money and good luck sad sad its a beautiful car and i love it my mother gave it to me it was her car and when mine died she gave me hers im in tears right now i love my sebring convertible but im just another person scraping by that cant afford to fix it.. (i wont go into why i cant just crawl under the hood and fixbit myself) ill just say im physically broken lol no code though i swear it just drives me crazy how can it do this for over a thousand miles of driving and still not give me a dang code? Computer? My hydraulic rams for the top nead replaced and i dont want to go thru that hassle and the money to fix the top if this car is just going to jerk stall and kill me on the highway after i do lol

Hello Chorkie, Yes I know the feeling. I am a ASE mechanic been doing it for over 30 years and I was growing grey hair for 6 months. Until one day I said heck I replaced everything I was told on here to replace and nothing, did the same thing. Then, I took my car to a shop I use now and then and asked him if he had the portable test computer so he can check my ECU, PCM. He looked it up and found out it had a bad relay inside the computer that only messed up when it got hot. I am not a computer engineer and had to switch my thinking. When he came back and told me the relay INSIDE the PCM was weak, I knew it was the problem. Many people have said go to the dealer for a new PCM so they can program it. Well, I didn't do that. I searched the internet and found a place that will sell you a PCM, have it programmed for your particular car, AND add the exact miles to it. Once mine was installed and I sent my old one in, I received a lifetime warranty on my computer. It has not done it since I replace my PCM. It was doing exactly the same thing as yours. I actually ended up rebuilding the motor, replaced every sensor in the car, even some other things I was told. To finally find out it was only the computer I felt dumb. I know the feeling about being limited income. I am actually disabled and partially retired now. I know I had an advantage being an auto mechanic. I have a couple questions. 1) is the motor a 6 cylinder? (2,7) to be exact 2) Go to a repair garage that you trust and ask them to test your PCM directly. NOT through the OBDII port. 3) The price should not cost you more then $60. Takes about 30 minutes. If your car is the 2,7L V-6 then I have to say this is a normal thing it does. if it is the 2,5 L 4 cylinder then it will do it also. These engines are NOT dodge or Chrysler engines, they are Mitsubishi engines and even the dealer I went to said Yes they get LOTS of car with that motor in there repair garage. Good luck and let me know if I can help anymore.

@CalifHarry Thank you for replying so fast! Yes its the 6 cylinder 2.7 ....I just want to say thank you, for posting all the you tube videos especially the one where you show how easy it to switch out the PCM Ive thought since it first started doing all this that it jad to be computer related because of how it acts and because the engine light doesnt stay on im taking it in to be scanned tomorrow I will let you know what I find out heres a different question maybe you can help with I found a company that makes the hydraulic rams for my top aftermarket brand new (ive already spent 215 on used ones and 400 for install to have them again die after about a year the new ones i found are a bit more expensive (about 450) but im curious if its something that I can do myself? I know the seat needs pulled out and that all the hydraulic fluid will have made a nice lake thatll need cleaned up but the rest? I dunno parts look small and i wouldnt think it would be too complicated but still a bit curious on your thoughts i want my top to work i love having the top down at nite out here in AZ in the summer soooo whatcha think? Should I try to tackle the hydraulic rams motor and lines on my own? Tried to upload a photo.. of my sebring covered in snow

Chorkie, I am so very sorry for not posting where I purchased my computer. They are not used computers they are fully tested and rebuilt. The link is: https://carcomputerexchange.com/index.php?act=viewCat&make=Chrysler&model=Sebring&year=2002&cSearch=FIND+COMPUTER They are great. I had no problems with them. Just so you know ma'am I don't have any YouTube videos. I only give advise as to what you should search for. I am in San Diego Ca so if you need something else, place message me again and I send you my e mail. The name of the company is Car Computer Exchange. and as I said they are great.

Hello have a 1998 chrysler sebring JXI convertible ive had it since 98 new, 103,398 mils later now the car started out by stalling out while i was driving friend put his sensor on it and gave me codes for the sensors on the trottle body oil change this is the first majorthing ever on tis car except for the full tune up 6 years ago, but now in order for me to strt the car I have to turn the key forward for about 60 to 80 seconds before it will start but now when it starts it will only be for a few seconds then cut off and then it has to sit for about an hour our over night and it still wont stay on long enof for me to even move it out of my garage. At one point and time it would start run until it got warm then thats when it would cut off at the same warm up spot every time, even the idle was good until it reached that same temp, and even the trans mission would jump, i could time it in the same spot of my driving to work every morning but drove horrible when it was warmer outside, now i cant even get the car outside of my garage because it wont even stay on long enof, i already have some grey hair and dont want more at this money for steady putting parts on this car that has been in the family since it came out in 98.

Hello GussJ.. I am sorry your having troubles with your sebring. I know the feeling about being frustrated about your car. The first question I need to ask is what engine is in it? is it a 4 or 6 cylinder.. If its a 6 is it the 2.7 or the 3.0 Litre? if its a 4 cylinder then let me know. I can help you but I need to know the engine size first. Hope you understand.

It is the 6 cylinder 2.5, 24 valve motor

And thanks for the quick response this car was my parents and they past away a year apart of each other and just trying to keep the car going.

Califharry thanks for getting back the motor size is the v6, 2.5 ,24 valve motor 1998 chrysler sebring convertible jxi

my car was fixed after changing out a $12 relay plug located just behind the fuse box.

Gussj. So is your car fixed then? That is great that it was only a $12 part. I am happy for you. The 2.5L engine is known as the "Interference" engine. It is one of those engines that has to have the maintenance done on the engine before major things go out. I believe the engine is manufactured my Mitsubishi and if you have not had the timing belt replaced or something like that it is best to have it done before it breaks. It can cause serious damage. Here is where I received my information about them. It is: According to eHow Chrysler has identified the 2.5L V6 engine as an "interference" engine. Care must be taken with all "interference" engines. Let me know if I can help you with anything else.

Chrysler knows the problem is a defective engine control module, it overheats because of its poor design, it will die when least expected, like pulling out in traffic it will die and more than likely you will be ran over, a class action lawsuit should be filled against Chrysler.They know it is a defective part and it's design was discussed in several service bulletins They figure once all the warrantys run out then they aren't liable, contact you local DMV and file a complaint, it's very dangerous fact it can and will cost someone their lives because of the stalling issues. File suit people Chrysler doesn't care if their obvious and well known defective part is going to get you killed, they figure a lawsuit or two is cheaper than a recall

I have a 2008 chrysler sebring LX. Got my car diagnosed by Chrysler dealership they said it was my battery. Drove it and all lights shut off they said it was fixed. I drove it few hours later the ABS light Brake light and airbag light came on and car stalled again. Its doing the same thing. I am taking it back to them tomorrow. Should I have to pay for a other diagnosis? I called them they told me to bring it back in tomorrow.

Also it turns on shuts off runs for a little bit and shuts off again.

Hello, My 2002 sebring convertible was doing the same thing. It would just shut off idling at a light, in the driveway. Able to start back up immediately. And often it would stop again right after starting it (seconds later!). Everything would go off...like the power was completely disconnected. I was really concerned because it did it 3 times while stopped at a light in a single lane construction zone! But it didn't do it while the car was moving. Only when idling. So the basic stuff I checked the voltage at the terminals for jump starting, it read 5V. I went through the effort to get to the battery and found the battery was at 12.6 volts, checked again at the top and they were 12.6 also. The positive battery terminal was stripped and loose, unable to tighten. I took the battery to store and it checked fine, replaced the positive terminal screw ($4 part), and it has been working for the past 4 days. I don't understand why the alternator didn't take care of it...and I'm not convinced that it is completely solved, but I went from seconds between shutdowns to not a single shutdown since replacing the loose positive terminal. I also noticed earlier that the cruise control was unable to turn on (no green light on dash). So just my story