Car completely losing power while driving

Check the fuel pressure?May be fuel pump,

I would try replacing the Crank Position Sensor. There are a lot of complaints with your model not starting. Check out this forum: http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/nissan- altima/TEUIGP0N4PCM77QLD/p4

The car starts and restarts fine. It is shutting off while I am driving it.

there should be some engine codes stored in the computer, have it scanned

your Altima should be still under warranty, go to the dealer it will be free

In regards to the last two responses: 1. It has been hooked up to a scanner, no codes come up. 2. It is at the dealer. They cannot find the problem and have had it a total of 15 days over the past month. Total of three different times being in their service department.

If every thing is going off, it could be losing ground somewhere.

Did you ever figure out the problem? My car shut off yesterday while driving. All lights went out and I lost all power. I have a 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5S

I needed a new positive battery terminal and a new battery.

thank you!

Wow....my Ford Explorer did the same thing....from another thread on this website under "loss of power while driving." I was able to find out that it was the throttle body assembly, after several trips to the dealership without an explanation as to what was wrong with it. Maybe it is the same issue with the Altima. I have not had any problems since I had it replaced. My car was less than 3 years old when it happened. It was built in 2011 as a 2012 model. It makes me wonder who is manufacturing these parts???

I have a 1999 mazda esmy car loses power

I have a 2012 Altima and it has done this twice over the last 2 weeks. Just talked to my dealer and they claim they have never heard of this happening.

I needed a new positive battery terminal and a new battery

Jeanne, your dealer is lying. The stall issue on the Altima is a known failure. I have read many posts and threads on this issue. I have not found any common fix. People have replaced all the sensors to having the car reprogrammed. Problem still persists. I would trade the car in. http://www.carproblemzoo.com/nissan/altima/car-stall- problems.php Or you can try the usual parts. The crank sensor, MAF sensor, and cam sensor. There was a recall for the '02 Altima for a faulty crank sensor. You can give the dealer your VIN # and see if your model has any recalls. If your check engine light is on, have the codes read. That should narrow down what part has failed. Typically the check engine light does not illuminate with this stall issue. I believe that there will be a class action lawsuit against Nissan for this issue. It is very common. Kind of like the newer Camrys and the oil consumption issue that Toyota has failed to recall.

Did anyone ever figure out what's causing this issue? I've started to have the same issue with my 2012 Altima and my research shows that this is a very common problem, but I called Nissan and they "have no knowledge of this issue". Yea right. I'm taking it to the dealership today but the check engine light isn't on and the battery/alternator are fine. Any suggestions?

I've never read about this problem with an Altima, BUT, for my ford explorer, it was the throttle body assembly....had it changed and has not happened since. The dealership also acted like they didn't know what was going on....complete cover up by Ford!!!!! They do know what causes the problem...they are covering the replacement on the Ford Edge, I believe, but since I don't have that model, I had to pay out of pocket....almost $600....just to find out that my son could have changed it for about $100....not happy with Ford right now.

I'll just sit back and wait for you to have your own reality show first. I wanna see how it works out for you. Maybe you and Honey Boo Boo can team up together and have a battle of wits. Should be priceless.............

I don't have a Nissan, but my Honda did the same thing for a while. Bogged down to the point that sometimes it would die at an idle. I ended up changing the plugs, plug wires, distrbutor cap and rotor, and cleaned the throttle. Ended up being the EGR valve. Literally put hundreds of dollars and 15+ hours into this car over the course of 5 weeks, and it was a $100 and 15 min fix. Just throwing that out there.

2013 altima lose power and battery and brake light come on. Replaced battery, cable and alternator still same problem

I have a 211 Nissan Altima and have been dealing with this problem for over 3 years. I have replaced battery and terminal, 3 dealer original MAF sensors with reprogramming, and the problem persist. They even suggested it was the CVT transmission-- supposedly a warranty cover common issue with Nissan. This is the reason they extended their transmission warranty 120k. However, I didn't believe because it was a 5k job that was not longer cover for my car. I know the issue is related to fuel. It comes soon after the car rides on gas tank that is less than 1/2. A fuel injector cleaner improves the problem. My theory is that the car pumps more gas that it can burn and it shocks. Kind like when you try to jump a stalledcar and you give too much gas. The engine does not burn the gas that build up in it. I am the problem is in the fuel system. This is a factory malfunction on the Altima. I have read thousands of posts on the same complaint. I am just waiting to settle some debts before so Ican buy another car, since this piece of crap is paid off already.

I have a 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5 the standard one. I had this issue for almost 3. I have replaced battery, terminals, 3 MAF sensor and reprogrammed the whole car 3x. I have done tons of fuel injector cleaning... then I was told it's my CVT transmission that needed to be replaced, but it was not longer conver on their extended 120k warranty. However, I didn't believe it because I noticed the problem happens after the car runs on a low gas tank-- like 1/4 to E. if I let this happens the issue returns. I believe there is an issue with the way the car burns the gas. The engine injects more gas than the car is able to burn and shocks. I am waiting it out for another year but a new car, but never a Nissan Altima.

Kizzy, was your car showing any error codes this whole time? Just curious if it was or not. There are many things that can cause your fuel system to inject too much or too little fuel. Judging by your observations, I would think it would be fuel pump related. My guess would be that for some reason, your fuel system is losing pressure as the tank becomes low on fuel. Did any mechanics test for fuel pressure fluctuations when the tank is low on fuel? Was the fuel pump replaced during any of your maintenance to fix the issue? Did anyone suggest a faulty fuel pressure regulator?

Reelin68, yes the car was always showing the air flow sensor. When we replaced it goes away for exactly 65 miles then the check engine light comes back with the same code. We changed the terminals at the MAF too. The traction lights come on and then it begins to act out again. When I tried to replace the fuel pump, I was told by two mechanics is not the pump.

Kizzy, does this only happen when the tank is low on fuel? You seemed to think in your above post that your problem acts up only when you get to a quarter tank or less. You say the light turns on after 65 miles. Is that with a full tank? Or have you realized that it always happens whether or not the tank is full? You also stated that you thought it was getting too much fuel. Has anyone pulled the plugs to see if they are black and fouled due to an over abundance of fuel? Has anyone suggested that you may have a bad ECT sensor? I was also going over some forums on the MAF issue. One guy said that his dealer got in touch with some special Nissan tech. The tech said that it was a common problem and he thinks it may be a bad wiring harness. I'm guessing it's probably the main harness that the MAF ties into. Naturally, nobody posted back with any updates.....and the post was from 2013. The guy who posted said he had gone through all the exact same things you've done. Replaced the MAF 3 times and had the car reprogrammed. After a week or so, the light is back on.

I know my '05 2.5l has been a good car except for this issue. Started as bucking and code 0420. First website I visited said it was crank sensor. After a few "cheap" box store replacements which would fix prob for a few weeks, then get same code. I bought the Hitachi ones with high hopes just to be dashed. Now it's worse, total loss of power. Shift into N can get it to rev up and drop to D to get through intersections. So leads me to believe it may have something to do with a tranny sensor since it has been hesitating going into D at first start up. About fed up with it.

My car has been doing several that of the same things the past 2 years engine light comes on and off with MAF code replaced MAF sensor. Car jerky when taking off from a stop. Alternator went out and then battery went out replaced both 3 months ago. RPM fluctuates at idle. Three days ago started making belt and pulley noises, brake light on alt light on. Tonight dash lights flickering off and on ABS alternator and Brake and traction light on, would not drive in drive then just died won't restart

Sitting here in the parking lot stranded I've used up all my AAA calls in the past two years all the times when it broke down and died , thanks Nissan !!

Nissan Murano just started shutting off while driving and losing power..new battery terminal installed and it did it again the same day I picked it back up so its not the terminal

I am also facing problem in my NISAN Altima 2012 2.5 model. One month before it was stopped (Dead and steering locked). on 24thNov 2017 twice and today 26.11.2017 one. In all of above, I found similarity is " During slow movement and turning". Before getting dead (abs) signal is came and went away for fraction of second. Please suggest, how to resolve this issue.

Hai I am having 2013 Nissan Altima and now a days i facing problem like, my car power goes off and comes back when i am flashing the head lights or making a turn sometimes while applying break as well.. This happens only sometimes so when i take to garage they cannot identify the issue and what is causing this problem....

Not that you haven't figured it out by now, but my Altima had the same issue with shutting off without warning even while at speed. It used to happen pretty frequently but never prevented me from restarting. I found at later (after getting a manufacturers recall sent to me) that there was a recall for my car, 2005 Altima. to prevent it from shutting off at random. Ever since I've never had the issue happen. If they tell you there wasn't any recall its bull.

My 2017 Nissan Altima just did this to me yesterday, and with only a little over 7k miles, this is a huge disappointment. I was driving through an intersection and the car just completely shut off. Could've been really dangerous had there been more traffic. It's at the dealer now, so I'm waiting to see what they say is wrong with it. When I spoke to the dealer yesterday to tell them why it was getting towed, they sounded as if they'd never heard of this problem. Feel very unsafe now, driving it. From the sounds of it, there's been no solid fix?

The dealership said they've only had 1 other car with this problem, and the cause was loose ground wires. He said I had 2 loose wires: one connected to ECM, which is the computer, which would cause the car to shut off. The other he couldn't recall at the time of the conversation. They're testing it now... so if it's fixed and I have no further issues, I won't post again. If I do run into this issue again, I'll update!

I spoke with my dealership and they said they never heard of this problem either. My car shut down on the highway, dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Care restarted several seconds later. My second Altima, and definitely my last.

I spoke with my dealership and they said they never heard of this problem either. My car shut down on the highway, dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Care restarted several seconds later. My second Altima, and definitely my last.

1-remove battery negative and wait 10 minutes and reinstall battery negative 2-use remote and lock door and then unlock door 3-with foot off of brake push start button to turn on accessary switch and leave on for 30 seconds and push again 4-push manual lock on car and then push manual unlock 5-start car normally This will reprogram car and should clear up stall issues according to dealer. He indicated it loses program and causes stall issues.

I have 06 Altima & it started with car having a jerk sometimes while driving. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor once but car continued to jerk. h eventually turned the car started cutting off while I was driving. So after trying few things I went back to the crankshaft position sensor & changed it & the camshaft position sensor. Which fixed the problem

I got a nissan altima 1993 n got a new battery n a new alternator n the battery still die what could be the problem

I have just experienced the same problem with my Altima 2014.. It just died at a stop sign. I am very disappointed.. This could have been very dangerous if on the freeway. Nissan needs to make a product which is not dangerous to drive. My me mechanic thought it was the crank sensor..negative..AAA thinks it is the fuel pump.. most observers say the fuel pump never goes out..I should have bought a Honda or Toyota.

You wanna make sure you get a Nissan crankshaft position sensor. You wouldn’t think it makes a difference but it does. I replaced 2x with another name brand with no change. After I got a Nissan one the problem was fixed

My friend has a 2018 Nissan Altima and noticed every time she turns her wheel in either direction, the car begins to stall. If she presses on the gas, the car will start up again. The dealership ran tests and couldn't find the issue so they decided to return the car to her. As they drove it out of the shop and turned the wheel, the car stalled. They ran more tests and cannot find the issue still. They checked power steering, battery, wire connections, etc etc.

I have this issue with a 2007 Altima 3.5SE. No codes show. All lights come on while on highway. I lose power, headlights go off, radio goes off. Then the power comes back intermittantly.

I have a 2015 Nissan Altima and every time my car gets low on gas the car stalls and don’t accelerate. I have to turn it off then back on. I’m not sure what the problem is the battery light turns on once it stop accelerating. Any suggestions?

I have a Nissan Altima 20073.5se when driving the car stalls and won't move in drive I wait a few minutes cut the off and turn it back on and it drive what can be the problem

#####READ THIS BEFORE YOU DROP $3,000 CHASING THE ISSUE###### i have a 2013 nissan altima that was losing power after about 20 minutes of driving. Every time i would approach a stoplight or slow down it would sometimes just not respond. i would have to take my foot off of the gas for 2-3 seconds before it would kick in again. Tried a throttle body kit, NEW TRANNY (recemmended by nissan dealer) and still have the problem. It ending up being a F#%$ing break light sensor!!!!!!! Easy way to tell is have someone depress the break while the car is on and then let go. If the break lights stay on for an extended period, that is your issue. Needless to say i will NEVER being buying a Nissan again, nor returning to the nissan dealer.

Iam having the same problem take it to the dealer he said it needs another transmission I just had a transmission put in and I don't have no lights on the dashboard

I just got a 2013 Nissan Versa on Friday. Tonight it shut off while pulling into a parking lot, all lights came on, and steering wheel locked. It started on the 3rd try. Then not even 3 minutes later did it again. Had the battery, alternator, and started checked and there were no issues. Put fuel injector cleaner in and drove for about 15 minutes. It seemed fine then it did it again 5 times in a row!!!!!!!

Has anyone discovered the problem? I had the mass air flow sensor issue,replaced twice, next ignition coil issues replaced all 4 over time due to code, yesterday final to coils were replaced. Brake light came on and there is no check engine light. Car died while driving had to push to park it. What could issue be?

I'm having a similar issue in my 1997 Nissan 200sx. I'll be driving for 10 min. and then it will begin to hesitate past 2.5 RPM. It will continue to run until it slowly loses power and stalls. After it stalls I can't turn it on. If I wait long enough (more than 2 hours) it will turn on. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, sparkplugs and the downstream O2 sensor. I've connected my diagnostic tool and the code I got was P0335 (crankshaft position sensor error). Any ideas? I dont want to replace the sensor because 1. I don't want to replace it and have it not be the issue. 2. Supposedly the sensor is located in the distributor and I have replace it within 1-2 years.

I have a 2014 Nissan Altima and it lose power while driving. The dealership checked all sensors, fuel pump, transmission and the alternator and no codes were found. I replaced the battery and it still lose power. The guy at the Nissan dealership said he is not sure what's going on with my car. They completed a diagnostic test on it 3 times and everything came back good.

It will be a ground wire connection on the the car or can shaft positioner. Also te ecm harness may need to be replaced. Te harness in nissans are known to be faulty. Replace that and positive battery wire. The reason all the lights turn on is a tempory lose of power to the computer and the car goes into safe mode cause it to shut of.

Also reason codes disappear and come back after drive awhile. When it lose power tempory the computer as to relearn codes.

Has anyone found a fix??? I have a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5L and the engine cut out twice within the last three weeks. The first time it happened, there was no warning. The second time, my service engine light was blinking, that went off, then other lights randomly went on and off, then they all lit up like a x-mas tree and then the engine cut out. I lost power steering and brakes. I was driving around 40 mph each time and it was very scary! I got my crankshaft sensor replaced after the first episode, but that obviously didn't work. And it did not store any codes. This is an extremely unsafe vehicle to drive and I'm ready to send it to the junk yard. It's at the dealer now and can't wait to hear what they have to say.

Turns out my problem was the distributor. After I replaced it and got the timing right, I haven't had any issues!

Hood latch was replaced due to a recall, on my 2015 altima. The latch that it was replaced with does not have a sensor, triggering an iKey error causing the car to shut off while driving by triggering the kill switch. If your car has a push button start and was recalled acount of the hood latch this could be the problem. I think. I just got the car on payments and it is going back to the dealer today, I don't want it.