what might cause blower motor resistor and pig tail to keep burning up on 04 durango?

It's possible the aftermarket parts are the problem, but not likely. I would suspect the blower motor itself more, if it's drawing too much current it will burn out the resistor and possibly other electrical components. If the blower motor was aftermarket it might be the problem, especially parts made by Carbone (I think that's the company) they are known for inferior quality.

Hey thanks man!! But I'm not sure how to check the current to that motor?

I have a 01 durango slt plus and i think the resistor is shot when i get in i start driving and i start to feel cold air the switch is off but its still putting out air the air compressor comes on because its shot too it makes crazy noises but as long as it works do you think its the resistor blower motor or switch please help

When your Dakota or Durango left the factory, it had a Mopar motor and voltage resister that were compatible with each other. After 10-15 years the motor wears out , begins to draws more amps burns up the resister. Most people replace the wiring harness and the resister with. cheap replacement from Autozone / Advanced etc. Then a couple days later it’s melted again. Then they buy a aftermarket blower motor and again it keeps burning up. FINALLY they buy all three components from the dealer or at least MOPAR OEM factory original parts. And then it works, but only for a year and then it burns up again and you say what the F#*@!!! Even if you use 100% OEM parts it still fails: The reason is………….For your 2001 to 2011 vehicle MOPAR didn’t make your replacement part. Oh sure it will say MOPAR on the box and say factory original OEM part, BUT IT’S NOT!!!!! It’s made buy a number of after market companys, mostly NAPA. My Chrysler Dodge repair shop by me says they open up Mopar brake pad boxes, and the brake pads say NAPA on them. Just the way it is today. Noboys makes their own parts anymore, mostly China crap. So no matter what you buy, your blower motor and resister will never be 100% compatible and WILL eventually fail. Go to a salvage yard, find a low mileage Durango or Dakota and pull the motor and resister and then you will be good to go. OR: Only use high speed fan setting for heat and AC. Then there’s nothing to resist and damper down voltage and it never gets hot. You can even use cheap eBay parts etc. Sorry, not the perfect fix but it is the truth, I’ve spent 2 years figuring this out

Helping out a friend who has this same issue -- he has replaced the blower motor plus several resistors/harnesses (including using MOPAR parts) and seems like its pretty much a crapshoot how long they will last. I'm wondering if it is good/feasible solution to just bypass the resistor/harness and run power directly from the fan switch to the motor, through a fuse (see diagram below) I realize this will limit the fan to only one speed, full blast, but its worth it to him to not have to keep screwing around with this. Does anyone see any issues/downsides to this workaround?

I have had all the problems reported here. Replaced blower motor, resistors, and plugs multiple times. Finally, finally figured it out. At least with my 2002 Dodge Dakota (and I suspect other Dodges with same problems), I notice some moisture on blower cage last time I changed that out. Next time I changed out blower, water poured from the motor housing (blower stopped working only 1 month into use). On line I find out that older Dodges are getting leaks in their A/C condensate discharge line or through penetration through engine wall. My hose was cracked. So over time, water was leaking back into air system, draining down into lowest point (yes, the blower motor casing) and causing blower motor to burn out the resistors and melt the resistor plug (but the blower kept running - poorly). It was insidious, because it starts out slow and you figure there is something wrong with resistor, resistor connector (which melted) or the blower motor's old, or they-don't-make-these-blower-motors-like-they-used to. Replace everything or directly soldered wires to resistor to no avail. It happens again (until water leak was so great I couldn't miss it). Like I said, there are multiple videos and forums discussing this A/C condensate leak back into the vehicle and how to repair that. I managed it by turning wheel left, jacking up truck and reaching in to pull off drain shield and then putty up cracked drain hose and all around the hose penetration. My problem solved - finally. This may be your issue. Especially if you didn't have this problem all those wonderful first years with the truck. Good luck.

I don't know if this helps going to try it myself a guy took and sodered pin 1 and 2 together to drop the voltage to the blower resister going to try it next