Why would my 2003 dodge neon sxt be stalling?

Is the check engine light on or has it been on recently?

It was on because I have a bad evap sensor. After replacing the cam shaft positining sensor and the throttle positioning sensor I had it reset so when it came back on there wouldn't be any old codes popping up. The car has stalled around ten times since replacing the last sensor and the check engine light has not come back on yet. When it stalled before it would restart without problems. Now the more it stalls the longer it takes for it to restart. Most common stalling time is when I'm decelerating to stop. Or beginning toaccelerate from a stopped position

Defective or improperly installed fuel pump perhaps?

Check engine light came back on today after changing spark plugs and wires. The code that came up was for the cam shaft positioning sensor.

I had the fuel pump replaced five months ago and havent had any problems with my car until recently, and I can hear the pump come on when I start the car.

Which code for the Cam Sensor came up, and where was the cam sensor purchased?

did you replace the regulator along with the pump?

The cam sensor was purchased at Advanced Auto Parts. I don't know the exact code that came up but was told the sensor voltage was running high. When the engine light comes back on and if my car will make it back up there, I can have the code ran again.

No I did not replace the regulator along with the fuel pump. Is there a test at home I would be able to do myself to see if the regulator is bad? Could it be something as simple as my distributor coil module "thing" because I don't know exactly what it's called, and is there a way for me to test that at home? It's a 4 cylinder so I know that I only have one coil and it's all in one module.

the regulator can be tested. you'll need a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure at the rail. it should be 58 psi, if its under that chances are the regulator is bad and would def be the reason for stalling and hard starts.

Is the fuel pressure normally tested "at the rail"? Im unfamiliar with that.

its easiest only because there should be a shrader valve on the end of the rail you can just screw a gauge onto

Chris, is there anyway to test the crankshaft sensor since it might be throwing a cam sensor code? Or just cross fingers that that's the problem, and replace it?

cross fingers. theres really no home test for it unless you have a scan tool that shows the sensor voltages while its running. ive seen cars thro a cam sensor code before and its really the crank sensor that's bad. they read off each other. I would replace it and see what happens, but use a NAPA sensor

Ok thank you. Any partircular reason why a NAPA sensor?

Would I also need the crankshaft sensor connector? Or just the sensor itself?

shouldn't need the connector unless its damaged. there may be an accumulation of oil on the plug, spray it with some carb cleaner to clean it off. you just need the sensor

OK Thank you, Justin

I am constantly reading about Neons needing the cam shaft sensors replaced. (Just replaced mine a few days ago) Wonder why they're such a common problem with the Neons? Hmmm...

it was a shitty design, both DOHC and SOHC had problems with them failing in short time. what happens is the plastic casing cracks ever so slightly on the inside and oil starts pushing through the sensor causing it to read wrong or fail completely.

Ahh, I see. Well, fortunately, it's not an expensive fix. Mine was only 28 bucks at Advance. (But that's only ONE problem fixed!) I still have a few more to go. :/

Be careful with aftermarket cam sensors - I had 2 cam sensors (Blue Streak) and they read out of spec... but not to the point where the engine would stop running. I finally installed a Mopar sensor and the light hasn't been on since.

Sound like your ISC (Idles Speed Controller) or IAC (Idle Air Controller) might be going or is bad. When you "let off" or "get into" the throttle, the ISC/IAC will close or open during the "in between time (milli-seconds)" before the ECU and Injectors respond taking up any need for more or less air entering into the throttle body. Since you have already replaced everything else, I would say to start there.

If you buy cheap parts you get shitty parts. I have seen a tiny part of dust on the mass airflow senser mess them up as well as the crank senser failing and calling a cam senser code.