possible reasons of engine shut down during stop in subaru outback

Have you changed your plugs and air filter lately?

It's the CVT! But before you cry ensure that your battery is fully charged and that you don't have a vacuum leak that's submerging the idle control when in Drive or Reverse. But the classic failure mode of the CVT is engine stalling after braking. Replacement of valve body is about the cost of swapping a used CVT (2k+), so I'd have a serious conversation with Subie in NJ soon!

Note: '12 plugs are iridium-tipped. Likelihood of plugs causing lost idle is nil. Same with clogged air filter, as air requirements at idle are very low. Again, check battery condition and connections (clean em?!)...or even try a new battery, as they last 3-6 winters...before chasing SOA for a new CVT.

yakster- just curious, I have a 2010 Subaru Outback with CVT transmission and over 73,000 miles on my car. I haven't had any issues, just how many miles are on your car and can you please describe in what situations this occurs, does it happen at all stops or just sudden stops. Many years ago, I had an 85 T-Bird with this problem and it turned out to be the harmonic balancer. I don't know, maybe, the SubaruGuru in Boston knows if these cars even have a harmonic balancer, although he sounds pretty confident about the failure of the valve body in the CVT transmission. So, how many miles and do you drive this in the mountains or other strenuous situations? Please advise.

Here's a story for you from car complaints, read the attachment below,

Don't know, but, could this help, see this link below, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/saving-dying-cvt- torque-converter-234085.html

No so rare. Tip 'o the iceberg, Mark.

TheSubaruGuruBoston- that's interesting. A few years ago a mechanical engineer told me that the new CVT transmission were simpler, better designed, and more efficient and durable than conventional automatic transmissions. And, Subaru has decided to change all of their old 5EAT transmissions to the new Lineartonic CVT. It's been six years now since the introduction of the Subaru Legacy and Outback models with CVT. You would think that if this were a major problem, then, Subaru might not have switched from the old to the new transmission? Your thoughts on why they did this?

TheSubaruGuruBoston, have you personally seen a lot of people bringing in their cars to your shop with CVT transmission issues? I understand that, in most cases, the only option is to just replace the entire thing, very expensive! I'm grateful to you for suggesting that I get the fluid exchange. Hopefully, that will reduce the risk of failure in my car. I wonder how many people ignore this. Just because it only says to "inspect " the CVT transmission fluid, doesn't mean that you shouldn't have it changed as routine maintenance.

+10-15% fuel eco.

My 2006 Outback was stalling randomly while driving anywhere from 20-40 miles per hour. I took it in 5 times, put mechanics couldn't diagnose it. The car wasn't exhibiting the problem and the codes weren't specific enough until...... The code for the "cam shaft position sensor" failing started to appear. My mechanic replaced the sensor and problem solved. This was the spring of 2017, about 6 months ago, and it's still good to go.

Not pertinent to newer iterations.

I just took my 2001 out back in for this issue. The issue is the torque converter. There is an extended warranty is available so get in the dealer asap. They also gave me a free loaner 2018 Crosstreck free for the duration of the repair.

Don't think you mean 2001....

Seems like you meant 2011. Good that SOA's covering it.

Yes, 2011, sorry about that. I got carried away. Also I am having a heat shield replaced that rattles like crazy. Non-warranty item of course, but I found nothing was really covered under the warranty I bought with the car anyways. I hate people had trouble with their CVTs, but glad it was a big enough problem they would pay for it.

2018 Outback Touring: 3 Months Old: 2400 Miles HELP!!! HELP!!! in Auto mode approx 35mph braking to approx 25mph on a straight away AND car stalled then shut off. This happened on a rainy morning in traffic while taking my child's to school. At the dealership now and although they are looking at it upon my insistance, I was not made to feel they understand the safety RISKS of a family car stalling and shutting off with a child inside. Not sure if related: constantly feels like the car is lugging at speeds up to 35mph'ish AND constantly engine braking while coasting. Averaging 16.2mpg for approx 2100miles. Dealership said this is normal for CVT and implied I need to get used to it. I do not feel safe in this car. Is there anything someone can educate me on that I can share with my service department to direct them to correctly diagnose and address the issue to ensure this gets fixed right so my confidence can be restored. I can't afford another car.

Really does sound like an out-of-box CVT failure; try a second Subaru dealer if necessary. Might just be the TCM (the CVT's computer) as well. RSVP when done.

When I was driving and came to a stop or driving uphill, my 2012 Outback came to a complete engine shut down.This happen for three weeks in 2012. We went to, Saburu and they pay 100% for the torque converter and labor.

Yup.

TheSubaruGuruBoston, The dealer did an ECM update. The invoice does not state why the ECM was updated. Playing detective: According to one complaint on the NHTSA there was a low fuel indicator problem last year. Maybe that was the the update. Having an IT background, it is hard for me to see how the manufacturer and dealer would release a product without updates. That's like buying a new HP laptop from Costco with Windows 2007. It is worth noting the person waited 7 months to report it. However, a faulty fuel gauge still doesn't explain low fuel mileage (16.1 MPG), the feeling of lugging, and the feel of block shifting to early while coasting. I scheduled another appointment to leave the car for testing. I mentioned what you pointed out but it was dismissed and he said his technicians will diagnose. Also TheSubaruGuruBoston, would you happen to be a mechanic? The service guy asked me and I didn't know how to answer. In a way I understand the dealer is between a rock and a hard place when supporting lemons or faulty design. I hope they understand my perspective AND still act as my advocate to Subaru. I strongly feel when a car shuts off while driving your child in the rain is not only a high safety risk but the main function of a car has been compromised. It's like I bought a refrigerator that will keep food cold most of the time AND will fail unexpectedly at undetermined times. Am I asking to much of Subaru to have supplied me with a car that does not shut off?

Yes, I'm an ivy-educated mechanical engineer who decided to play with Subarus 35 years ago after a mini-career in lab equipment design. Life has its bends and twists.... Is the lagging and engine-breaking really continuous...and significant? (You may have to both drive a clone to compare AND have others experience your phenomena to rule out naivety wrt to CVT sound correlation weirdness. YET, Subie's modern CVT is especially smooth and almost intuitive, so you might indeed have an out-of-box failure (bad torque converter or its brain) that will get swapped out. These CVTs coast really well. Your reported 16.2mpg only makes sense for strict city use with the larger 3.6i motor. A 2.5i WILL average 26mpg in a mixed use. When driving at 55 mph it WILL touch 30+mpg. Go to a smarter Subaru service department if you have to, as I'm smelling a bad CVT from here in Beantown.

My 03 outback is doing the same thing I think (why I'm on here). When the issue does happen, my engine will die as soon as I turn it over, when I shift out of reverse or let the rpms decline, shift into neutral, and stop. Cleaned all the valves and sensors, checked battery and alternator current (battery is several years old) and new plugs and cables. Is this the transmission?

Spray-clean the throttle body after removing the rubber intake plenum, being sure to open the butterfly with a finger or two to hold it open as you spray carb cleaner on the top and bottom surfaces where the butterfly sits. It's not uncommon for the idle circuitry to fumble when the tiny gap between the closed butterfly and its venturi gets gummed out with carbon. The 4EAT doesn't generally fail in the manner you described, so clean the throttle before looking there. If power seems normal with open throttle, and shift points seem normal then that points even more to the idle circuitry (air control valve), but don't swap that out until you've really spray-cleaned the inner areas well. You may be surprised at how much smoother the idle becomes!

My 09 Forester is doing the exact same thing. EVERY. SINGLE. STOPLIGHT. It’s really annoying. Think it could be the torque converter? Should I just take it into my local dealer? Bought it used from third party so don’t have any sort of warranty.....is it going to be real expensive? My father in law is a bit of a mechanic himself, how difficult is it to replace yourself? So many questions. Sorry. Haha

As mentioned, I'd clean up the air and fuel supply before blaming the TC, especially in an old 4EAT (non-CVT).

Uh...see above.

Yes I have a 2009 suburu Forrester non turbo 2.5 it's ideling rough and it dies when I come to a stop. I put new spark plugs in it. Oh and it smells like gas pretty storng when it's running. Can anyone give me any ideals

No CELs? If smells especially strongly of fuel on a cold start check underhood for dripping of fuel from rubber-to-metal hose clamps on top front of motor on each side. Tighten and/or replace as necessary. It's common for these junctions to self-tighten when warm, but seep when cold.

I have a 2010 OB 2.5 and I just started having a similar problem, except that all of the warning lights on the dash started flashing first. then it stalls at a stoplight. starts up again ok and if i put it in neutral when stopped and give it some gas, it doesn't seem to stall. all the lights are still blinking though. i took it to a mechanic, who said it was a sensor problem and replaced a bunch of them. it worked fine for a couple days and then same thing happened. computer problem? CVT problem? both? thanks!!

Sounds like your 9 yr old CVT is failing. Chase a good used one from a salvage yard rather than tearing into the original. Good luck. TSG/Boston

I have a 2012 Outback that started experiencing this issue at ~95k miles. At the time when I was able to get the car serviced it was over 100k (by less than 1k). After researching here and pursuing the related links (particularly https://allwheeldriveauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/TSB169013.pdf), I was able to make the case that Subaru should cover it. They agreed. What was going to be ~$2100 for a torque converter has become $0. I do not like CVTs. But I do like the Subaru brand. I can't say much bad about the car. It's served me very well and does all the things we all want our cars to do. And I am very grateful for this site and the comments within. Particularly TheSubaruGuruBoston, you basically turned me into an expert in 5 minutes. I was able to navigate the dealer's stall tactics (pun intended) quickly and got an answer within 24 hours. Thank you!

You're welcome! Ern TSG/B

Now you should treat your OB to better handling with the rear STi 20mm anti-swaybar. Incredibly effective, cheap mod.

New login Ernie?

Yeah, but I didn't choose it. Happened automatically one day. I don't get it.

You may be able to recover your account. Use the Contact Us link. I almost lost mine the other day. I was hoping you would pass up Mark soon.

GuruSW818, I have a 2013 Outback with 95K miles and, more pertinently, the same issue. Have read the pdf you linked to. Would love to know the case you made to get Subaru to cover it.

2006 Subaru Forester 155k assuming it’s just the transmission going bad bought 2 months ago private party. After about a week of driving started to notice the quirks wrong with it. Shutters and Stalls Randomly when coming to a stop very similar to stopping in a manual without clutch depressed. Can feel rough shift between 2nd gear, if car gets put into nuteral when it starts to shutter car doesn’t die. No CEL. Starts up right away when it does die. Please help!

Start by draining the ATF. If the fluid is really dirty (gray-black), just refill with 3qts and drive a few minutes or hours and repeat the drain. Then add 3.5qts simple ATF and one small tube/bottle of TransX Posi-D additive. Then drive normally. If symptoms don't disappear within a few hours you should dump this Subie as its trans is beyond repair, i.e., do NOT attempt rebuilding it as it's never successful. If you treasure this chariot and it's otherwise in fine shape you can chase a whole 4EAT from a recycler and swap it in...after cleaning its fluid too! But be careful, as you have to decide if that $1.5k expense is worth it. Good luck.

Do the 2011 Subaru Outbacks come with a CVT trans? How do you identify is your car has the CVT?

Yes, all 2010+ OBs have a CVT.

i have a 2011 Forrester with the same issues. Runs fine until you come to a stop sign/stoplight. When the RPM's drop, the engine dies and will not start sometimes for hours. The CVT was sounding like my answer, but i have a manual trans., so back to the drawing board. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Possibilities include shorted ignition coil, so check for spark at any ignition wire when hot (inoperative). Ern TSG/B

Have 2010 outback worth almost 200k. Shuts down when stopped suddenly and also when traveling on highway will give a squeak before shifting into gear. No engine lights. Transmission fluid seems good. Throttle body has been cleaned. Is it the CVT as been mentioned above?

Sorry meant has 200k miles

Yes. Sorry. You need a new valve body. Ern TSG/B

Just bought a 2010 legacy. Stalling on a hard stop especially when its cold out. Should i Get the cvt checked?

You just did!...sorry. You need a new valve body assy, as a solenoid is bad. I'd cancel the sale unless you can get $1.5k back.

G´day! Adding a question hoping for help. 2013 outback, manual, diesel Started to stall when cold. Would then run perfectly. Then difficult to start and dies under approx 1100rpm. When running over that rpm its a charm. But dies under 1100 like someone turns it off. Now refuses to start. No fault codes. Two subie companies have given up. Any suggestions? RIchard

Sorry: no diesels in North America.

Hey guys, I am having the same problem (idling at very low RPMs or stalling out when coming to a stop) occur on my 2010 Outback w/ 174k miles, but it has the 6 speed manual transmission. The car has had all the major required maintenance done at 150k (timing belt, head gaskets, transmission flush, etc.) I keep seeing people have this problem with the CVT, but not with the manual. Are the recommended fixes similar? Before I take it into the mechanic, I wanted to reach out for your advice, Thanks in advance!

We have a 2012 manual Outback. The motor will just turn off all of a sudden and you lose the brakes. This last happened to me while doing 45 MPH and it was terrifying as I needed to stop at a light. I quickly turned the key and got the car started again and got the brakes back. Took the car to the mechanic and a Subaru dealer and nobody could replicate the problem or find anything wrong with the car. I think it might be happening while in neutral. Any ideas?

In gear or neutral while coasting?

Just came here for my 08 outback 5 speed whenever I put in neutral or start slowing down or coasting the engine shuts off just like mentioned above going 45 n your car dies it's pretty scary. I've had it happen to me once before when I reconnected the battery and it resolved itself after that one time about 5 months ago. but as of yesterday when I reconnected the battery and tried to drive it died when the RPM reversing at 1200 or lower or whenever I put it in neutral at a stop sign or even just getting for the stop. basically slowed the RPM down too much and it'd die. I recently saw a video about letting your car run for 10 minutes to let the computer readjust just wondering if that would work on my Suby? Think I'm going to try that later as long as it stays on in neutral for 10 minutes wish me luck (btw The video recommended not touching the throttle at all for 10 mins) so no revving the RPM up to keep it on or the adjustment won't work.

I think while in neutral.

Spray clean internal throttle body.

I have a 2012 Subaru outback. It has over 138,000 miles on it. Mostly highway. It's been shuttering and then stalling as I come to a stop. Fortunately it does start back up. I had my air filter replaced and also my spark plugs changed. When they were changing my son showed me all the oil on them. It stopped stalling for about a week but now it's back to stalling again. Im not sure what to do next. I just got laid off so I have to be conservative on how much money I need to put into it. Any suggestions?

Your OB needs a new CVT valve body. Takes only a couple of hours to replace +$700 part cost. What fails is the soldered-in solenoid that releases when slowing to idle speeds. If you ignore it it will get worse, so just bite the bullet. Best, Ern.

Thanks for info Guru. We have 2010 Outback with 150k with same issue. Has been doing for a long time even under warranty. Dealer finally replaced torque converter under the extended cvt warranty. Did not help but dealer said no codes so out of luck. Any thoughts or ideas? Car is in excellent shape but it isn't driven anymore and wife wants to sell. I don't want to dump a problem in someone.

Sorry, the issue is stalling when fast braking or stops.

Replacing the TC didn't help? Get another brain from another dealership on this one. If they're both correct in that you do need a CVT you can find a used one in the teens and spend another nickel to install it. Yes, it's a $1.5-2k problem.... If everything else (brakes, tires, exhaust) is happy I'd do it and continue to use for another few years. I'd also replace the rear antisway bar with the thicker STi one for much better handling and reduced body roll...but that's another $250 installed. (Disclaimer: I sell 2016-2018 OBs in the Boston area.)

Hi Guru, for some reason I received your answer via alert but not on the page. The TC didn't really fix anything.

Does it throw codes (CELs)?

Hi! I have a 2010 Legacy that I'm having similar issues with such as Beth/others. It has over 132k miles on it and stutters/stalls sometimes when backing up or coming to a stop. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'd say once a week. Seems to be happening more often since we've just been driving it around town and not on the highway as much or when I was driving 20+ mins to work. Just had an oil change and new battery/air filter put in about a month ago. No lights come on, so no codes. I'd like to keep it going for as long as possible.

I took my former 2012 Subaru outback to a recommended Subaru specialist. With all the stalling problems I previously wrote about, he came up with what was wrong with it. It needed a new transmission, cross bar, bushings, and more. I decided with all the things wrong, which was going to cost over $6000.00 that I would dump it and trade it in for anything besides another Subaru. I'm glad I did, now I have peace of mind that I won't be stranded along side of the road somewhere.

Liz...and Beth, by the way...your Subies are suffering from an inoperative solenoid in the CVT's valve body. Part is $800 and two hours labor to replace. Not the end of the world. Beth threw the baby out with its bathwater....

TheSubaruGuruBoston - I have a 2011 OB doing a similar stall on stops when engine is cold. After it warms up no issues. Is it still the solenoid in the CVT? Is the CVT replaced entirely to correct the solenoid? What is the $800 part called? Thanks sir!

Answer to upcoming question: The "valve body" is typically discounted to about $700. Works when warm? I'd be sure the internal solenoid's the problem before doing the surgery, eh? When failing when cold do you get a CEL code?

So probably the Torque Converter with the the way it dies at a stop. It feels like you didn't put in the clutch, even though it's an automatic. I haven't seen any check engine lights to indicate any problems. It just dies. If the car has been running for 30 min. or so It doesn't die at stops. But my first two to three stop signs to work, I slow roll threw, otherwise it dies. Just replaced battery yesterday to rule that out.

No CEL light? What happens is that a solenoid in the valve body ($700) becomes intermittent, resulting in non-release of the TC. But I think it usually throws a code....

Hi TheSubaruGuruBoston, My 2011 Subaru Outback experiences full engine stall when braking hard to a complete stop from acceleration. When the car stalls I am able to put it back into park and start the car normally and drive away. It is an automatic transmission. I did notice however when the car stalls that numerous lights come on the dash. Subaru told me I’m out of luck as the mileage is 133,000 Miles.

To upcoming poster: yup, you need a new valve body ($700+labor).

If the valve body is affecting the torque converter, would it need to be replaced also ?

No.

My reasoning for asking about the torque converter also is because some people had mentioned that the thrust washer becomes faulty in the torque converter.

This TSB (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10140492-9999.pdf) says the stalling is usually caused by a bad thrust washer in TC, and that the TC that needs replaced. My 2010 is not stalling however, but the tach dips and comes back when braking at 15 mph (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQOEJwsF74E). The TSB states that Subaru can do a CVT line pressure test, to rule out a bad TC, which is what I'm going to request they do. My question is, if it's not the TC, and I don't have any CEL codes, how will they know if it's a bad solenoid in the VB? I'm also going to have them test my battery, battery cables, grounds, and alternator, to rule those out.

Not sure if SOA will cover the TC if the problem is confined to the valve body (solenoid). It would make sense to replace BOTH, but that gets pricier, despite being prudent. PITA indeed....

I'm having same issue of stalling on harder stops and I'd add that it idles high on start(1700 rpm) then lowers to what would be considered expected idle rpm after a while. Intermittently the check engine light and red "brake" indicator on the dash will flash. Took it to AutoZone with their communicator when the indicators were flashing on the dash but it didn't show any codes. Subaruguru, based on your comments in this thread is there any way to troubleshoot or rule out between if it's the valve body on the CVT or the torque converter?

No codes with a common OBDII scanner?

ernest, I was told by two different local dealers that Subaru is not trapping errors related to stalling and an OBDII would not give me enough data to troubleshoot the issue. I do not have enough knowledge to value their statement one way or the other. Is this not true?

Richard and TheSubaruGuruBoston, Two local dealers via the local Subaru rep diagnosed my issue as gas sloshing around that caused air in the line. The sloshing was caused by the incline of the road and braking. They said to keep my tank over half full. (so I have to carry unnecessary weigh of a full tank for city driving.) However, the problem has still occurred three times since. I avoided complete shutdown by easing off the brake. Not ideal, I know. But Subaru is not going to fix something they can not replicate or diagnose. God help me if I need to break hard on the highway. If you read about a 2018 Forest Green Outback getting rammed in the back because of engine failure, say a prayer for me and mine.

I don't buy it. Are you braking on a 45 deg decline? Running on fumes? Keep the tank at least 2 gallons in reserve (light off) and you should have NO issues. MMM...your posts just don't pass the smell test; are you a troll? Sorry to be so skeptical....

I drive a 2010 outback and I'm experiencing a full car shutdown when I hard break. Typically the car will give a little shudder, then stop running with the dash fully lit up. What I do when that happens is put the car in park, turn it off and then on again, and it drives with no problem. I recently had the battery replaced but my mechanic has no idea of what could be the problem. This thread is a little confusing so I'd appreciate it if someone could explicitly tell me what they think the problem is, so i can relay that to my mechanic.

Your CVT's valve body's solenoid is inoperative. It's become a very common problem, Said solenoids are hard-wired, so are messy to replace. Hence whenches replace the entire valve body (single part, $700) in about 2 hrs; plus fluids, about $1k. A scanner should pick up the code for the errant solenoid, by the way....

Ernest what troubleshooting would you do to determine if it's the torque converter, the cvt, or the valve body? Even their own service bulletin for this issue says to replace the cvt then the valve body may need to be replaced if the problem persists. Any ideas? How would you go about troubleshooting? If I can get it to throw a code what should I look for to point me in one direction?

P2764? Valve body.

Thanks Ernest, if I were to leave this problem unfixed(stalling on hard stop, high idle on engine startup) what could potentially happen to my car? Worst case scenario?

Normal cold idle will be c. 2krpm, so that's normal. Not sure if repeated failed declutching will speed up CVT failure, as main "bearing" wear is NOT related mechanically. Eventually all these early CVTs will simply scrape apart and refuse to operate, but that's usually after a fairly long noisy denouement that sounds like a bad front wheel bearing getting worse, but emanating from the CVT and not either front hub. Happening a lot to 2013-2014 now....

I got a 2014 Subaru Legacy about a week ago, and today while driving it just stalled - I was going about 40 mph, but braking at the time. It only has about 59,500 miles on it, and hasn’t had an issue before today. It seems to run smoothly otherwise. Initially I was thinking maybe the fuel filter or possible a dirty mass airflow sensor, but after reading this thread I’m concerned it could be a CVT problem. I’d love to think it’s a fluke, but I doubt I’ll be that lucky...does anyone have any thoughts about how likely the CVT issue is?

It looks like they've known they had CVT issues all along. They're finally doing something, but it's too little too late for my 2012 Legacy with 175,000 miles on it. But check out the link to see if your car is covered under the new warranty for this problem. https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2012/SUBARU/LEGACY/4%252520DR/AWD#manufacture rCommunications

2000-2014 CVTs are prone to losing their valve bodies' clutch release solenoids, causing stalling. The assy costs $700 and takes 2 hours to replace. The problem is that sometime later the entire CVT's main drive will wear out as well. It's an annoying, and persistent, nightmare.

I have a 2015 Outback with 190K miles. On my short drive home today, it started feeling like I was pressing the brake while I was pressing the gas, then died when I came to a stop. The car will turn over when I press the start button, but then dies, every time. What could this be? No warning lights, no alarms, and nothing like this has happened before.

Battery strong enough to normally crank to fullt start, but then dies even in neutral...BEFORE engaging D or R?

Yes. It won’t stay running. It is an automatic.

No CEL? Regardless, disconnect battery neg for an hour, clean both terminals, and retest. Subaru Panasonic batteries are notoriously short-lived, so start there, unless you're sure it's not a bad battery by knowing it repeatedly restarts strongly and then dies. Again, will it idle in Park or Neutral?

Even in Park?

Ernest - it will not idle in park or neutral. Husband hooked up scanner - code is P 0300.

I know a lot of people have had problems with their Subaru's shutting off and no lights come on. I got lucky enough and my mechanic hooked up a special scanner. The traction control light popped up for a second every now and then when driving with the scanner on. It ended up being my rear left wheel bearing and speed sensor were not communicating with the transmission. There were no lights coming on and I just got a new transmission put in so that’s what I thought it was. Try replacing your speed sensors before thinking it’s the torque converter!

Many wrenches forget to attach the rear sensor after playing with the brakes. As well, a sensor can get dirty, or rarely, loose, which are boith easy to remedy. Rarely do they actually fail, as they're just simple electromagnetic in nature.

Well I got my answer years later...THANKS Subaru for putting my family in danger and insinuating it was my negligence when it clearly was either your engineers or vendors that you buy substandard parts from.

2017 Subaru Outback 3.6r with 165k miles. Absolutely no issues up until this point and I’ve religiously done all preventative maintenance. Jumped in the car one day and it started lurching and and hesitating on acceleration. Also occasionally stalls when slowing to a stop. All my research is telling me that the fuel filter is clogged or something else with fuel system. But my mechanic told me that he thinks it’s the transmission. Doesn’t quite sound right to me, but is there anything I can say to my mechanic to clarify that is what it is before I shell out several thousand dollars on a new transmission?

I have a 2014 Subaru Legacy. A few weeks the idiot lights started going off while driving home and threw a P0971 code. Prior to taking it to the Subaru dealer I had to have an inspection which included putting in a new battery. Immediately after leaving from the inspection/battery change I had an engine stall like mentioned above. This had never happened before and didn’t happen again for me. Took the car in to get it repaired and got it back today after they had replaced the CVT valve body ($2400 later) while driving the car home it stalled twice. I’m thinking this may be more battery than CVT since the new battery install was the first time it happened. Thoughts?