Still looking

Does it have an upper & lower intake plenum, Are you talking abt. the bottom of upper intake? More info please, what is leaking if anything?

Yes i think so.. Mu manifold when i took off has a gasket like its 2 pcs. Never thought of having to change that because never touched bolts.

Can you get to those without redoing it all over again? Is anything leaking? oil? coolant? sucking air? ect?

No cant find any of that. My idle is 2k down to 200 when i shut it down. Then it gets to normal about 700 but not steady.. I replaced that purge solenoid for code 34 but didnt do anything. No vac leaks or electrical issues i can find

2 k to 200 when i start it up when its warm..

Check the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Test. Should be some test procedures on the net.

I have seen IAC's get too dirty to work right and TPS's do all sorts of things. Could be one or the other or even both bad. Test/check first.

Brand new. Only 6 months old and tested good

This has got me pulling my hair out..

Whats left the ECU, dirty injectors, fuel pressure?

Ya but why would it rev up and down and sometimes stall after it is warmed up when i start it. When cold it starts up and just 4 or 500 rpm dif. Right when i tirn it off and restart even half hr later

May be in limp mode.

I think it may be time to locate a known good ECU/ECM to try out. Otherwise I still go back to Dirty throttle body/dirty injectors/ IAC dirty or bad or not adjusted correctly or TPS or any of those wire harnesses bad. The other thing to check is fuel pressure, see if it's fluctuating at all. O2 sensors, unless the downstream ones are throwing codes, replace the two upstream ones if they've got >100K on them or test bad. Code 34 Code 34 is set when the computer does not detect a voltage to and through the speed control servo. The cruise control computer is built into the PCM/ECU, which grounds two windings in the servo mechanism to regulate the vacuum applied to the servo diaphragm so its there on all models with fuel injection without cruise control. Start it and spray carb or choke cleaner around all the vacum lines and the intake, Ethanol degrades rubber & plastic over time. If the idle raises it is sucking the choke cleaner in. Did you change out fuel filter, check fuel pressure, change spark plugs & wire set, cap & rotor, test crankshaft position sensor, test coil, distributor pick up coil, test map sensor (most often do not go bad) but a bad one will regularly run "lean" or "rich, idle surging / delayed acceleration followed by a sudden surge & fouled spark plugs. Re-check for codes other than 34 if you do not have cruise control its there all the time. Try some fuel injection cleaner in tank too. A PCM/ECU computer if known good will tell you it that is it and be done with it if its bad and will not have to replace and test everything else.

Is there anyway i could have a vac. Lock? I undo my pcv from intake she starts up with a high idle (2k) then drops to (1k). I have to put the hose back on slowly and idle drops back to where it should be. If i put on normal jit dies

Clean it out with some carb/choke/throttle cleaner valve or hose may be clogged, make sure PCV make noise when its jiggled back & forth if not replace. Pull entire hosing off clean it out too, look for the other end connection to see if there is blockage, If bad may not be a bad idea to clean throttle body and even rebuild it, it would need to be removed but new gaskets under it may help this issue, will say most often if throttle body gasket is bad it idles high. There are a number of other gaskets that may be bad, including the fuel pressure parts in the back of throttle body that can cause problem with fuel delivery which can be a reason this is happening, may just be a few different issues going on here. Need the full kit. Plus the rebuild kit for throttle body will have injector parts, filters/o'rings/ IAC gasket, when you pull it out and have body off engine try to spray throttle body cleaner threw the small holes too blow out any build up, or when disassembled use a ultrasonic cleanner to clean it with or soak in throttle body cleaner, last dirty one I cleaned took about 5 cans to get it cleaned up, plus a bought a bottle of fuel injection cleaner to soak my injectors in while I was doing throttle body just remember if there is a procedure to set the IAC and do so when reinstalling it. Some PCV hoses go to the intake but still be fine to spray in there too.

Anytime I rebuild a throttle body I use nylon assorted small brushes, no steal brushes and I do have a large ultra-sonic cleaner and use solution Brulin Formula 815QR made just for this reason. I also clean or replace any dry-rotted vacuum hoses/lines and same for PCV and run some test on the two sensors IAC & TPS with voltmeter. Make sure the connectors are good and clean them out with electrical/computer board cleaner and use some dielectric grease in connections and do the same for spark plug boot ends.