I have a 92 dodge stealth Dohc non-turbo...it starts runs for 3-5 seconds then dies...any ideas?

I'd check the fuel pressure first and foremost... at idle, it should be at 38psi with the vaccuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator, or 47-50psi with the vaccuum line disconnected. If you notice the pressure is low, check all the fuel lines for leaks, INCLUDING THOSE CONNECTED TO THE PUMP! The one time I experienced this issue on my car, it turned out to be a bad line from the pump itself (in the fuel tank) to the access plate on the top of the tank - the pump was able to pressurize the line enough to start the car, but unable to maintain enough pressure in the line to keep it turning. A quick way to check for this is to try flooring it right after it fires up. If hitting the gas pedal makes it die immediately, then I'd say its *definitely* related to fuel pressure.

i had same problem with my AWD TT.. I went straight to the fuel system and the fuel pump.. Pump was bad and on its last half- leg. I now have a fuel pressure gauge mounted that I got from 3sx.

Change the ECU (computer) located behind the center console. it will be the on standing on end. that is the main cause of problems with stealth 3000gt. I keep a spare ECU on trunk because I have been stranded before. bad caps in the computers.

I am having the same issue with my '92 R/T. At first, it was running real rough and stalled in gear with foot on brake. Took on a road trip and as long as I was driving and not stopping it ran great and didn't seem to have any issues but again, first stop sign or light and it stalled out. Ended up having to change both belts and then I noticed the engine was not staying warm although it was 18 degrees out and snowing like crazy. Let it sit at the hotel overnight and it started right up and I drove it 30 miles to family's house and next day, would not start at all and I had to tow it back home. I changed the fuel sending unit and pump, and it started but kept stalling. Changed the spark plugs, wires seemed to be fine on testing with multi-meter so they are still in. Coil packs I did not check because I was really think vacuum problem after this. No help could be found on that issue. I recently changed the idle air control and putting all the parts back that were removed during plug change. Hoping that fixes it. Is it practical to put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in instead of the factory type with are outrageously expensive? Should I also change the throttle position sensor in case it is bad? I took the ECM out and opened it up and none of the caps seem to be leaking and the board looks fine. If these other things don't help, that will be my next thing to change out. Thanks.

Crank sensor ?

V6