2002 Elantra GLS - AC not working, fan is blowing normal air. Indicator does show as AC switched-on.

Might just need to recharge your system with R134a refrigerient, and it super cheap to fix.

thank you very much for your advice. Is there a video on youtube i can watch specific to Elantra. I am little confused with high and low point. Also which R134a would be best to use? Appreciate your help.

When the HVAC control head shows the AC engaged, visually inspect the AC compressor and see if the clutch is engaging. If the clutch engages and then disengages right away then that is usually a surefire sign that the system refrigerant charge is low. If it does not engage at all than there can be a multitude of different things causing the AC Compressor not to actuate; i.e. Compressor clutch relay, HVAC control head, faulty clutch, wiring, HVAC high side pressure sensor, etc.

Its pretty easy to do. They sell kits at walmart or any autoparts store. All you do is screw the can on and attact to low side. It wont connect to highside so dont worry if one side doesnt fit. Squeeze the handle on and of untill it reachs around 40psi while the car is runnnig. Best would to use a one that has some pag oil in it, stay away for the ones that have mineral oil as they are for R 12 systems. If its not blowing cold at all you might need about 2-3 cans to recharge it fully.

Not only is that ignorant but dangerous to charge your own AC system to a guesstimated amount without being able to monitor that you are filling it to the proper capacity. Overfilling your system can cause catastrophic failure of components due to extreme system pressures. Also using too much PAG oil can hydro-lock your AC compressor. You are more than welcome to "keep filling it until it blows cold, if not you MIGHT need to add 2-3 more cans."

lol..... Thats why i told her to stop when its 40psi at idle. 40psi is a standard for correct filling. and for the pag oil, the amount in the one or two cans will be fine.

There is no such magical thing as a"standard" fill amount, expecially between different vehicle manufacturers. Not all vehicles run 40 psi low side at idle running. How many cans would it take to fill a vehicle that has a front and rear zone AC system? If i had to throw a number out there, id say most dual systems take approx. 2.5 lbs of refrigerant. Wouldnt it make more sense to spend the money and let a trained professional work on your vehicle then go to walmart and invest in R-134a stock and buy out there shelves?

Your realy making this funny. Yes it is a standard you idiot. 40 psi is around the correct low side pressure reading at idle. Even if not all cars have 40psi there around that psi unless there was some other problems with the system. And the amount i thought of how many cans was about what car she had. I didnt tell her to keep throw stuff cans at it. I am a professonal, i have my epa 609 license and i know what im talking about. Stop be a prick.

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I have one doubt before giving this a try. Is it necessary to vaccum the AC before refilling / recharging it?

Your welcome, It wouldnt hurt to.(If it was my car yes) That way your sure that theres not to much air/moisture in the system plus, That there isnt any leaks. Also when filling make sure you have the can upside down when filling. This insures that only the liquid gets into the system. Also have your A/C on max with the car running.

Ok - I found a local mechanic and he test the pressure on low and high points and refilled the refigerant. AC chilled for a day and next day back to same old no cool air. It looks like my car ac has some major leak. I can ask for an estimate for repairing the leaks, but wondering if it is really worth? And how much should I be expect to pay? Please advice.

Sorry to here that, it depends on how dependent you are on your ac. I myself can dea lwith out to save a little gas. Depending on whats wrong it could get expensive. If i were you i would find out where its leaking first. Dont let them repair,after they tell you where its leaking post here and ill tell you what you how much it would cost to get it repaired. I would hate for you to get conned into paying some outragous price. If you want you could check the two air ports and check if theres any residu there. If so it will be a pretty cheap fix.

Ok - the mechanic analyzed that the AC condenser is leaking due to which there is no cooling at all. Total cost is 300. Cost of condenser is 170 and rest is labour charges. check autozone, and cost of part is ok, not sure about labour charges though. Also do you think that the analysis is correct. Please advice.

300 is a fair price, If that includes refilling it. It would be hard to say if that was the problem unless you have some pictures, Or you could check your self by spraying soapy water around the joints, and the condensor and look for air bubbling out.

I was googling to find out where the "low pressure port" is located in my ealantra (just to make my job a little quicker) before I get to work, when I came along this post. It didn't relate to my specific inquiry, but I couldn't stop reading! Lol Gotta say, Buccaneerz, I thought you should hear at least one person thank you for your confidence in us mere 'do it yourselfers' and the sound advice you gave to help us out!! If I had the money to take it to a shop where I'm 99% certain I'd get screwed one way or the other, I wouldn't be googling any of this in the first place. I think you gave great information and appreciate that you took the time to share your knowledge!

I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with outside air temperature coming into the car with the AC on full blast. I had just filled it with a "DIY" canister. Still the same even after driving around. MH said two things that I am going to try immediately. Can should be upside down when filling (it doesn't tell you this on the can) and I am going to put a full second charge into it if the first one does not take. Thank you MH, dealerships, especially American Auto dealers are the biggest fucking crooks out there. There should be more guys like MH. Thx!

Thank You MH! I just finished your recommendations and at an idle it's now blowing cold air. You're a Rock Star!

Thanks Buccaneerz! Gonna try it too!

I just had an AC check done on my 2002 Elantra. They said the compressor body was leaking (not shaft). Everything else was good. It was blowing ambient air, showed AC as ON. What should this cost to replace, or is it something good to DIY?

For all you elantra owners, I have a 2003 and 2004 gls elantra's. The ac would blow cold then outside air then cold then outside air off and on for about 2 months, Then the car out of nowhere over heated. No warning or signs of a problem. I replaced the radiator and all the hoses and the cause of the whole ac and overheating. The thermastat. 5 years ago and no problems still. Ice cold air. I did the same to the 2004 also, I still can't figure it out, Thermistat going makes the ac work sometimes. Some might say "no way" but it is true.

Lol at you guys you can use the superheat method or try subcooling to be accurate but most car owners don't know those methods if it were me I wood recycle the whole system look up the spects for that car and weigh it in but if you need to add you can bet you got a leak try fixing that first..

Question guys, My 2001 ellantra, the AC is ice cold And not leaking at all. Compressor I'f that's what u CALL it will not turn on. Replacing relay switch number 1 tomorrow when part comes in, but Just noticed there are 2 , all the 10 amp fuses inside car are fine, but I replaced anyways. Just saw a few more under the hood, NOT switches or relays, but actual plastic Square fuses. Just saw a 20 amp I Will pull tomorrow when it's lighter out And replace if need be, I need To know, am I even in the right area of fixing this? Blower works, light for AC comes ON when u push Button in, blows Air temp air. I wiggled the AC relay switch under hood the night before and it turned on And worked one more time until I shut car off, never again. Lol I'm hoping I hit it correct and when I replace that tomorrow it Will kick compressor on .any other ideas From anyone, yes, a girl trying to figure out her own car, daddy not here any more to fix these things, so I'm on My own.. Lol

Check for parts on Ebay Motors. in 2013 i bought a ac kit for my 2005 Toyota Sienna for $167.00 with free shipping. I was surprised when i opened the box the compressor was a DENSO which is the oem brand for toyota. Toyota wanted $700.00 for the compressor by itself. My kit had the Compressor expansion valve orfice tube Dessicant bag and new compressor oil. I found a mechanic that has a shop but manily works for a big company fixing auction cars. he put the parts on for $100.00 labor and i bought the 134a at walmart. you can save yourself some money on the parts.

Question? I have this problem as well except i don't know whether the high pressure or low pressure switch is causing mine's to act the way it does. It comes on when it wants to. Sometimes it would stay on but 90% of the time its blows hot air but cycle on and off i check the refrigerant level and it's at 40°core. How do it check the pressure switches

I have a 2018 Elantra Limited that started blowing warm air out of the air conditioner when it was in auto run mode. It worked fine the day before. Raising and lowering the temperature setting made no difference. I tried a lot to get it to work. I looked at the compressor clutch and it was operating properly. Then I hit the air conditioner SYNC button and it started blowing cold air again like when it was brand new. I switched off the SYNC and went back to AUTO and again it blew warm air. So, there is nothing wrong with the compressor or its clutch, no signs of oil on the refrigerant lines or compressor due to refrigerant leak, the evaporator and condenser fans run properly. So I figure the air conditioner mode select switch is sticking, or maybe the relay it controls. Today I got back in the car and tried it in AUTO, without SYNC and it is back to running like it should. Maybe dust or corrosion has gotten to the switch or relay, but I will not be taking it in as planned to the dealership for repairs until it starts acting up again. I was told the diagnostic test is free, under warranty I guess, but I have 57k miles on the car and I do not think the warranty for those parts go past 60k. If anyone knows a link on how to check and replace the switch and relay I would appreciate you information being posted.