Can I treat gasket material to stop a leak in oil pan or rear main seal ?

The rear main seal is rubber so if it's leaking I don't think there's anything out there that will recondition it. Of course the leak might be coming from the back of the oil pan gasket, or an ATF from the front of a trans pan gasket.

There are service bulletins in effect for the corrections to resealing the 4.0L ford engine used in the smaller trucklike vehicles. The bulletins can be specific to the build date. The pan is sealed with elastomeric sealer, and the bolts may have issues around the back of the engine. Some of those repairs require updated sealer and procedures be performed during the resealing process. the top end shares this leak issue, and TSB bulletins may apply there too. Getting the info from Ford should be a simple request. Some public libraries have auto databases to obtain this info as well. Using the Ford updates works and is a rather high percentage fix. Following the procedure to the letter and understanding what you read can make Removing the engine the easiest way. Your ford dealer's engine linetechs have experience in this area and they can help you decide your best approach to your vehicle.

I went to the Ford dealer for a LOF and leak inspection. Oil pan leaks. Have to remove trans to get at the pan. Will fix leak and new gaskets/seals on rear main seal. $662. P&L. Sounds reasonable to dumb old me. Any comments ?

That may be easier laborwise for access, pulling the trans rather than the engine. But if the engine starts leaking elsewhere, it would have to be readdressed and updated parts and procedures applied at that time. They did not mention updated parts and bolts being used at the rear of the crankshaft ? Yours could be newer and already equipped, so the pan sealer failing, only, has to be the way they have it diagnosed, I suppose. Just so they did not miss any valve cover or intake leaking down from above and you would be good to call that your fix. The sealer they use is non acid cure, so it has to cure for many hours before the oil is added back in. and the engine started to verify it is fixed definitely.

That does not make you dumb, that is a hybrid of the german 2.8 L puker that became the 2.9L shaker, and then became the 4leaker. cool cool, beans beans... cooool beeeans.

Thank you for your replies. Does $662 sound reasonable? $500 labor and $162 parts, approx?

Yes , reluctantly, are they replacing the rear main or something besides the sealer? Because the sealer of that type at the parts store is like 30 for 1 large can and one small can. The ford part sealer is essentially the same but comes in 1/2 short caulking tubes. this may be showing the price hike or perhaps too many tubes? The labor for a 2wd seems right and gives them time to clean the pan groove which is as fun as pulling teeth from a child without anesthetic. Then he has to clean the engine and the solvent for this is murder on the central nervous system. Just for that reason, you would want to hire it done. I am unsure about the part list.

if he heaps the sealer on to be sure he smooshes it up there once and as neat as he can, he wants some excess amount.

All good answers. The old magic chemical you pour in to stop leaks....is snake oil. Oh sure, some will swell the seals and slow or stop the leak briefly, but it will start again, and usually badly in the middle of no where. Go for the sure fix. The price, for pulling the pan considering the pan is made to fasten to the engine and tranny....either pulling the engine or tranny the tranny is easier. Price sounds about typical, considering I was just quoted $650 to change the fuel pump pod in a 99 Explorer.

Also, the rear main is a one piece seal, so just dropping the pan wont get it. Its likely why the tranny is coming out. Common leak areas on these, rear intake seal, rear main, and valve covers that crack or work loose.

Let us not forget, elastomeric sealer is used for those pans. Numerous bulletins and updates to parts and procedure have been published by Ford for years. This one should have the updates for crank bolts and top end already. a dye test would produce the most accurate diagnosis. The dealer uses them to qualify for warranty leaks, and uses what they learn to implement the correction for vehicles outside coverage. The hours add up and the numbers are pretty well established.

Thank you all for your replies. I now have enough info to ask intelligent questions of various repair shops.....and get the correct repair done.