I put my 1998 infiniti i30 in the shop the I paid 99 bucks for them to put on machine and tell me the problem well they charged me 700 for a knock sensor and a O2 sensor.. It broke down half way home. I took it back to shop and its been in shop for a week they called me and told me to come get my cafr cuz they cant find problem. before that I took it to another shop and he put it on machine and said there is no codes showing why my car wont go over 30mpoh and why it keep cutting off but he didnt charge me. PLEASE help I have been trying to find out why my car wont go pass 30mph since SEPT. Ihave spent so much money I dont know what to do..... help

Well an o2 is not going to cause it to die out, and $700 for those 2 sensors is highway robbery. Both of those sensors will set a code so the first shop showed none and that means they totally guessed on the 2 they changed. Tell them to give you back your money if they can not fix it as those two sensors or the labour for them are not equal to $700 and if the rest is their diagnoses was a waste of your time not just theirs and since they did not fix it with the $800 you already paid you need your money back minus the $99 & cost of those two sensors (minus labour for install).

I would question the So called machine, may just be code reader. Could be your computer.

thank you enginecreator.. I went to tires plus and when my husband questioned them they said they have a 100,000 dollar machine that reads codes.. my husband asked them if you guys put it on the machine why cant the machine tell us the problem.. well they asked me to leave my car so they can find the problem and I did they had it for a week then they told me to come get it cuz they cant find the problem.... then they referred me to a used car dealer to get a new car... I will deal with them later when I find the problem.... thanks again for answering back I appreciate it... Ms.Philip

hello drgoodwrench, thank you for ur reply.. it is very very helpful... I have been trying to upkeep my car I purchased it used with 120,000 miles now it has 134,000 miles.. I have been doing work on it slowly but its been getting done.. but now I cant find the problem. what I see and feel is now you can tell when the car is on.. before when the car was on you wouldn't know because it didn't make any noise and was quiet nor any vibrations. Now when car is on and if you put it in reverse it start to shake and then cut off. Then if you let car sit for 2 days and you drive it .. it feels like nothing is wrong then after a few hours the engine will get loud and it wont go pass 30mph and when you take foot off gas it will jusyt stay at 30mph the speedometer wont drop down it will be stuck on 30mph then it will drop down to 0.when it want too. and if I stop at light or slow down the car will cut off. I put it on the machine at 2 different places and one place didn't charge me cuz he couldn't find problem but tires plus did 700 bucks and it still broke down. tires plus told me to get new fuel pump.. I don't know whats wrong.. a lot of people say my engine look good but I purchased car used from an old person from Michigian.. the condition is good but there is a lot of rust,, the gas tank was rusted and there are a lot of other parts on the car that has rusted,,,, but I have been doing work on it for a least 2 years and I have been listening to the mechanic. but when my radi and clock stop working that's when my car started the problem and my mechanic said its an electricial problem so my car sat for a month with the mechanic that do electric work on cars.. but that didn't work.. so now my car is sitting in my parking lot... and I don't have money for the dealer... so I'm going to take ur post to a new mechanic what are your thoughts..... sorry to bother you with all tis messs but this stressing me and I have kids and UBER has cost me sooo ,much...

The fact your car has a lot of rust and has electrical issues means you may have multiple problems with the car. The fuel pump in this car is in the fuel tank along with the fuel filter and may be clogged with rust as well. It sounds like your ECU is resetting but eventually puts itself into limp mode every time you drive. It could be the torque converter is no good and the engine speed sensors are showing a problem to the ecu and putting the car in limp mode. It could also be that your car works in "open loop" mode when cold, but when it switches to "closed loop" (driving by sensor input) the car is malfunctioning and going into limp mode. This is usually the MAF sensor going bad or being dirty, but this should show a code on a reader. The engine getting very loud when in limp mode makes me think it is the torque converter having a problem or it is being told by the ecu to slip so your speed is limited, or the cooling fans are coming on as the engine is overheating.This should also cause a code to come on. When you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light should be on. If you don't see this, then your instrument panel is having an issue too. You may have rats eating the insulation off the wires in the dash. A car with this many issues is many times not worth trying to fix. Check to see if your check engine light works at all, if it does but does not come on after the car is running , allow the car to idle for a very long time to see if you can get it to start running poorly without ever driving it. If the engine will idle and rev up fine while in park after it has gotten completly warmed up and given the chance to overheat but does not, then we have eliminated some possible issues. Let me know how that goes.

One thing I see here is rust and lots of problems and no codes. I think that if ECU is good (if) then there should be codes but the rust is an issue (maybe) I would check all grounds to frame/body & back to engine/block & battery or redo them and all others. If problems continue get/buy a new ECU, Another sign as said above is the check light even working, well if it were not but ECU still had codes then codes can still be recorded in the ECU and read with reader, So since no codes and in limp mode, Pull the ECU and make sure it had a good ground, Follow those wires to make sure those wires are good and grounds are good and if problem still persist replace that bad ECU. Also the Trans has a set of sensors and solenoids that newer models take a special code reader to pull those codes, yours may fall into this year range. So there may be trans codes. Automatic Transmission Speed Sensor, Neutral Safety Switch. I would if need be buy a voltmeter and a repair book that has all the procedures to test all sensors and start testing every circut, every sensor, every wire. But its either a bunch of issues or a set of issues or one main issue putting it in limp mode inwhich it can not run on either and dies out. Which points to ground issues, ECU issues, Or one of those sensors/switches that if bad that can also cause ECU to go to limp mode. If gas tank was rusty and it was replaced and new pump & fuel filter & injectors are not dirty or if they are then this could cause it too die in limp home mode, which signifies another issue. If its in limp home mode, Which ever circuit to put ECU in limp, this mode will still run and drive, so there has to be another issue going on, or the issue is a bad ground to frame or at ECU or the is ECU is bad, if it were another system causing it to die then the ECU would set a code for it, but no code why? Bad ground or ECU or dirty fuel system. All Ignition (firing) will set a code, MAF will set a code. TPS. IAC all set codes. Trans codes may or may not be picked up at ECU so there is the only other place to find it.

Hello guys I took my car to the infiniti dealer and they said the following : Replace all calipers High prewssure power steering line is leaking Power sterering pump is leaking front crank seal leaking.. This car is really acting crazy.. Now the check engine light is off and it has been off since last week. I also was able to drive it to the dealer then I picked car up and drove it to a different mechanic.. Me and the mechanic drove the car around for 20 minutes... The mechanic thinks I'm crazy and he said he said the only thing he feels or hears are the back breaks he said I should replace calipers.. what should I do

Well with all the issues previously to now its a power steering leak and back brakes. If calipars are sticking it can reduced speed, I would also question the master cylinder too and crud in the brake lines, if so it has been dragging the rear around. Strain on the motor may have set knock sensor and then may have set o2. If you have power steering & engine oil leaks your going to need to address them later, I understand getting the other issues first, as those more important, If its not reliably driving daily then no need to fix the leaks. If your brake lines are rusting inside then they will need replaced too or this calipar/master cylinder issue will return.

Let me say this is a 20 year old rusty car. Is it really worth repairing it? It may be better off finding a southern car without rust but needs a engine and/or trans and transplant yours to it. This could be much better for you in the long run fighting rust. I used to live in the north and have replaced brake lines, had cars simply fall apart going down the road, once a front end A-Frame broke in half at 40mph the front tires/rims went face down sideways and the car slide off the road, only took out a mail box (which we had to replace). So Its in your best interest to either take your loses now and get rid of it or add to the loses in such away as to remedy the whole problem by finding a non-rusted car needing your drive-train and let me add that if this is your plan forward to make sure you completely service the drive-train and put new rubber hoses on. Your donor may have better accessories, if so I would use those and save yours back for parts if still working.

Okay so about 2 months ago my brake light kept coming on and I had already replaced brakes and rotors.. and my brake pedal had to be pushed all way down to floor for car to stop.. then I noticed brake fluid kept disappearing so I kept pouring brake fluid in the thing under the hood and then my brakes was good... next I took it to mechanic and he say my cylinder was leaking so he charge 120 and replace it... It was all good for bout 2 weeks then the problems started... car started feeling funny,,, I would get up to 60 on highway but when I took my foot of gas it stayed on 60mph for at least a minute (that never happened before) then car would start bouncing up and down like a shaking motion.. then it will cut off... then when I put it in reverse it really felt like it was going to cut off. I don't know my husband said it could be the fact that I never had gas in it and I may have messed up fuel injector because I never got it cleaned or flushed and I bought car from a private person from Massachuttes..... then my husband say it could be catalytic converter or throttle body.... But to me it sounds and feels like something is going wrong with engine or transmission... and how come the infiniti dealer told me to get rid of it instead of detailing what it may be... the dealer had my car for 3 days and they are not as detailed as you... your information is very helpful... they put it on machine and said there weren't any codes popping up..... and my check engine light has been off since last week... I'm so confused it was on a while ago... matter fact when I got car from tires plus and drove it home the light came on.... then I parked it for a week and n=now it has been off.... I cant afford a used car at this time... I just want my car fixed.... what do you suggest beside getting rid of it...... I was going to try to take it to a mechanic that work on ifiniti... to mee the dealer wasn't help ful at all they just told me to get rid of it....

and another thing... the radio and clock stop working first..... then 3 weeks later these problems started

and last year when I got tune up they said my evap canister is clogged and there are several other things about the canister and other things that may be helpful.. I didn't get them fixed....

Locate the radio fuse to see if its blown. The EVAP system is important. EVAP problems & symptoms include problems with starting and could cause the check engine light on and set codes for o2 and possibly others. May cause it to stop running,. It may be canister or purge solenoid, which I would test it first, If canister can be opened to replace the charcoal then do so replace it. I understand why they said to get rid of it as it has an array of issues ranging from moderate to difficult to diagnose.

The running at 60mph no gas pedal may be a cruse control circuit problem or gas pedal sensor, (fly by wire) or a computer problem too.

I forgot to say its not that rusty... it was a few spots that I noticed rust on.. but I'm thinking wouldn't the dealer tell me all the parts that are rusted..... I think I'm going crazy with this car.... I have been working on it for a while... I'm single parent low income and I have been fixing it slowly.... I'm not giving up.... if I trade it in they only will give maybe 2000 that's blue book but I bought it for 2700 and put at least 5000 in it.... but that was over time (4 years) so I really didn't drive it.. I just want it totally fixed I will get paper work from last year and let you know er thing that was wrong......

Wow, invested $7700 and with the issues still remaining the trade in value is likely not $2000. Just do one at a time, The calipars if keeping the brakes applied need addressed which could also be a master cylinder if brakes are locking up, Rust inside lines, calipar mounting hardwear (bolts, rubber ect.) and EVAP needs fixed over-filling the gas tank can saturate the EVAP canister as-well as a faulty EVAP purge solenoid. I would also check all the fuses to be sure they are good.

these are codes from last tune up that I never fixed tune up was done on 3/28/16 code- P0440 Evap system small leak (0.040") Detected code - P1448 Evap canister Vent Control Malfunction (open) then these were the notes : Evap emission canister is clogged or restricted Evap purge solenoid connector is damaged(check pins for damage) Evap purge solenoid has failed Evap system vacuum line is disconnected or leaking Evap canister control valve has failed Evap canister vent control valve rubber tube is blocked Evap control pressure sensor has failed Evap vacuum cut valve has failed Evap water separator has failed or canister is full of water.. HO2S 1/2 connector is damaged(check pins for damage and moisture) HO2S 1/2 has failed(may be contaminated with fuel,silicone or water) HO2S 1/2 signal circuit is open or shorted to voltage PCM had failed Check for air leaks in air induction system (intake manifold) check for air leaks in the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes HO2S1/1 connector is damaged HO2S 1/1 signal circuit is open or shorted to ground MAF sensor out of calibration ( may be dirty or contaminated) I paid 600 for a tune up last year and this was on the paperwork that is recommended for me to fix but I never did....................................................... what do you think... I have 1500 bucks left.... so do I take a chance and buy another used car that and I wont have money for tags,or registration...or ,do I buy the parts and have my mechanic do the work...... I don't know....

Considering that it could be a bad rubber line or tube fitting which is cheap, I would look it over real good and see if you can see the issue, you may can do this yourself. All those above are possibilities it could be, may just be one or a few of those, I would look straight at the EVAP lines and connections points first and see if canister is cracked or broken first, Look at the cheaper things to fix first for issues instead of letting the shop jump on replacing the most expensive items first just find out its a $4 vacuum line.

If EVAP is showing codes then I seriously doubt the MAF sensor is bad, you could however use MAF (CRC brand) cleaner to spray it off to clean it (just do not touch its filament) and make sure its connections is good. MAF is located in the air tube just after the air-filter.

That list above is a list of possible causes for the code set and its directly connected to the EVAP system, It could be a very easy fix. And other than you can not see into the EVAP canister the rest can be looked at or tested to locate the issue, And when I say tested I am not talking about a $100,000 machine, But instead a $50 vacuum tester, and simple volt-meter.

Thank you so much enginecreator.. another person said look at my canister... I'm glad I posted the information.. you are so helpful.... thank you so so so so so much.... I will post the results.... once again thank you..

Your welcome.

hello guys I put the car in the shop and told them to replace evap canister,and replace that solenoid line and replace power steering pump and power steering hose as well as my calipers.. I'm still waiting for my car to get fixed I dropped it off on last Friday.. I hope everythimg works.. I will post wen I get car back... trhank you everybody....

Hope that clears it all up. Thanks for the update.

Teniqua, what happened with the car after the evap canister and other things replaced then? Did it fix the problems?

A clogged catalytic converter will cause both these problems