Jeep Liberty tail lights

sounds like a brake light switch problem to me. I would google it and watch a video or two on how to remove and replace it. Pretty easy fix.

Thanks for the response. I actually read, and tried, that earlier. Actually removed the whole thing, to see if that helped, and it didn't change anything. Backup lights and blinkers work just fine. No break lights at all, and all 3 tail lights stay on constantly. Even tried removing trailer light connection, as I read that one as well, but it didn't help either.

If you removed the switch and no brake lights at all, meaning they are no longer staying on then did you replace the switch?

all three tail lights? meaning the third brake light above? Staying on with the switch removed and unplugged? Taillight and brake lights are two different bulbs inside the tail light

I just removed the switch, for troubleshooting purposes, but have not yet replaced it. No, all of them are still on, even after removing the switch. Yes, by 3rd one, I mean the one above the back hatch. Pressed on brakes, even before removing switch, and no other lights came on...just tail lights(running lights).

somehow power is getting to the brake lights that is not related to the brake light switch if it is not connected to the wired connection when you remove it. The power passes through the brake light switch from the wired harness connected to it. If the wired plug into the brake light switch is removed from the switch the lights should go out. So the question is what is providing power to the brake lights when the switch is unplugged from the harness? Unplug the switch from the harness and check the wiring to the tow package. Sounds like a power wire from the tail lights is shorted to the brake lights or something like that. check all the brake light sockets by removing one light at a time while the brake light switch is plugged into the harness to see if the other lights go out when one is removed. If not replace the brake light bulb and remove another one and so on. Look at the bulb if double element as one element could be broken touching the other one that isn't.

Removed trailer light connection, from adapter on the bumper. Removed brake switch from the harness connected to the brake pedal. Removed all tail light housings and removed bulbs one at a time, and still getting power from somewhere. Only by removing fuse, can I get them to turn off. But at least I know its the brake lights as advised. Did notice substantial amount of moisture, inside the compartment that the jack is located, while checking back side of drivers side tail light housing.

OK now the wire connection that connects to the brake light switch needs to be tested with a 12-volt test light. The power comes from the fuse M1 ( green wire with a red stripe) on the connection harness. With the test light grounded probe, the (green wire with red stripe pin) inside the connector plug. This should light the test light with the fuse in place. Now remove the fuse and see if that changes. It should not light the test light with the fuse removed. When the brake pedal is pushed the brake light switch passes positive current from the ( green wire with the red stripe to the white wire with the green stripe.) With the fuse in place probe the white wire with the green stripe pin. You should have no power to that wire. The next wire (Red with a green stripe) should not have power unless the key is on or in the start position. Probe that wire to confirm power with the key turned on and no power with the key turned off. The black wire is ground. To check the black wire is grounded. You will need to connect the test light to positive with the gator clip at one end of the test light and probe the black wire pin in the connection. The light in the test light will light up if you have good ground. The remaining wires turquoise and green wire with the white stripe on each side of the black ground wire goes to the powertrain control module. PCM or computer. My question is if all checks out with power and ground of the connection plug, do you have any stored codes on the vehicle related to the check engine light on now or in the past? Assuming all probe tests check out correctly ground and positive wise and no codes stored PCM. My next step would be is to buy a new brake light switch and see if it solves the problem as this is the cheapest thing to do at this point. The PCM is not cheap but could be the problem. Let me know if a new brake light switch fixes the problem or if the probe tests don't check out as they should power-wise or you have no ground to the black wire.

The Body control module also plays a part in the brake lights operation.

after further review of your system, I found this " A common problem on these vehicles is a wiring issue to the BCM. The BCM, short for the body control module, receives a signal from the stoplight switch to send power to the brake lights. There are cases where the wiring running to the BCM rubs up against the chassis, fraying the wire and causing a short that keeps the brake lights on.