Dead battery and now key is stuck in the ignition. What do I do

Asked by Tinker15 Oct 09, 2017 at 08:43 AM about the 2013 GMC Terrain Denali

Question type: General

Batterey died in my 2013 GMC
Terrain/Denali. The key got
stuck but messed with it and it
released. Jumped started the
car and noticed that now the
on board computer was dead.
Was able to get the radio to
play but screen stayed black.
Got home and let the car sit
for awhile only to find it dead
and key stuck in the ignition.
What do I do. What's causing
it and how do I fix it

5 Answers

189,515

You will need to have the ECM, PCM reset in the car, this can only be done the coorect way at the dealership, Good Luck...

6 people found this helpful.
51,305

First, you need to maybe test the battery to see if it needs replacing. If so, replace it and sync the new battery to the computer in your car. That should fix all issues. Jump start the car, and the key should come out once the battery is charged up enough. If you have a battery that will not hold a charge, it needs to be replaced. Are you trying to turn the steering wheel while trying to remove the key? Sometimes the steering wheel has tension on it and turning it back and forth will release the key.

13 people found this helpful.
430

We'd been having a similar issue with our 2013 Terrain. Dash goes black and key won't come out. The battery was fine, and when another car jumped it, it recovered the controls and the key came out, and ran fine. Ran fine for a couple days and then happened again in the driveway. If it sat for a little while, then it would start up and act like nothing was wrong. Of course we got the "StabilTrak " flash before it went out each time, The last couple times, the dash would flash and the main screen would go black while driving. NOBODY knows sheet about this problem, so I got out my multi-meter and started doing some of my own troubleshooting. After pulling all of the fuses and ohming them out, cleaning the corrosion off, I checked the MAIN 80 Amp mega-fuse. It was giving me lots of bad readings and the two posts that hold it in place read nothing. After removing it, and checking it out, it turns out it was corroded on both ends and under the two connectors. I went to Napa and bought a new one (just in case) for $7.00. After checking and inspecting and de-corroding all of the connectors under the car (especially at the back) and in the fuse-box, etc, I feel confident that I found and fixed the problem. It makes sense... but this is a GMC Terrain, so I'll just wait until the NEXT thing that should have been recalled comes up. Btw: I fixed all of those other service bulletins myself and the oil problem too.

10 people found this helpful.
430

Hi. Before I talk about the oil problem, I found another problem that is just silly. Because the battery is located under the Elec package, I couldn't tell right away that the positive terminal was "just a tad loose." Sure enough, tightening the terminal clamp fixed the electrical problem once and for all -- Who'da thought. The oil thing: The piston ring design and engineering is just plain poor/BAD. Not enough to slow down the car or make it run poorly, but enough to cause a lot of "pressure blow-by" in both directions. On one hand, they all seem to burn about 1 Qt of oil for every 800-900 miles. On the other side, enough exhaust comes past that it pressurizes your crank case and top end. If you take off your oil cap, there shouldn't be any pressure coming out when the car is running. Check yours -- It will be blowing. Left to its own, it will build up enough pressure to eventually blow out the rear bearing seal (Another AWFUL design flaw ;; right between the trans and eng) and dump all of your oil out in about 5 miles or less. $1,100 repair -- $22 part. If you can't relieve that pressure, you'll keep going through seals until you do a ring job on the engine (which I hear doesn't last long). To save my rear seal, and relieve the pressure, I bought an oil cap and drilled out a 3/4" hole in the top. I inserted one of those garden hose quick-disconnect brass things that swivel. To one end I attached a 6-ft length of plastic-coated metal 3/4" conduit and routed it behind the engine to 2/3 way down the exhaust. That fixed my pressure problem until I change the engine or find another fix. ALSO: It would be in your best interest to buy a 6 pack of Liqui-moly engine lube to keep things (like the timing chain) protected. If you don't mind driving it like this for another 100k it will just cost you another $3/1000 miles for oil. --- The tranny's (I found out) last until 135 - 145k. So I might just put the whole package in if I can find a used one with less than 50k. Oh, well. I'm too ethical to dump it on stranger, so selling it is n't an option. I'll wait and see what happens with the Class Action law suit first. Nov - Jan?

6 people found this helpful.

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