jeep turns off while driving,

check the crank sensor

check the mass airflow meter

i had the same exact problem it is the positive wire goin from your battery to your starter

Check the crank position sensor...

Several things can cause this but if your jeep has 100,000 miles or more there is a good chance that it is being cause by the screw in the front plate of the computer. IF it just quits while going down the road, or if it starts running rough while at an idle then quits it could be this problem. It will also crank right back up sometimes or it may take 10 minutes or longer. To correct the problem remove the reservoir on the passenger side. The computer mounts to the firewall directly behind the reservoir. Remove the screw on outboard side directly below the left wiring harness connector. IT is about ½” long. Using a good pair of cutters cut half the length of the screw off. Reinstall the screw and snug it down (do not over tighten). Enjoy your jeep. Jcdmtw@gmail.com

Check the 02 sensors, a shorted heater will caise it to shutdown randomly/

We just had this happen with our 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 2 mechanics got to the cam sensor but it kept happening. Finally got a 3rd mechanic to check it and he replaced the crank sensor and got all the codes cleared. Back on the road again!

fuel filter changed crank sensor changed distributor worked on

Maybe its the hight temperature of the air in the motor. Yuo must design some ventilations...my truck did the same thing. Until I did some modifications.

i have tried crank positioning sensor , and then relays, then i have been cleaning all the grounds and any connections associated with the ignition area that i can find

Try changing the throttle position sensor located on the throttle body. Pull throttle body off 4 bolts disconnect the 3 wires clean throttle body with throttle body spray or carb spray. Spray the other sensor clean to a shine. My jeep was doing same thing no more problems. Hope this helps let me know.

I drive a 2004 jeep liberty and I have replaced the crank,throttle position,and the 02 senser and its still doing it

I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6L. It started to hesitate and then shut off suddenly while driving about a week ago. This started after the cooling fan went out and was replaced. We've now changed replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump relay sensor and a new battery. We did an oil change and tune up about 2months ago. We've taken it to 2 mechanics and now a third and no one seems to know what is wrong even after hooking it up to the computer. Any suggestions?

I have a 1990 jeep cherokee laredo and it starts but when I press on the gas it makes a clunk sound and spudders and kills. Any advise would be great

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee turns off while driving

My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee just started stalling while driving this week. It would stall while driving and then it wouldn't crank at all. I thought it was bad gas so I added Sea Foam and it started right up. But, that after a few minutes it died again. I had it towed to a shop today and they said it was a crank sensor. It was a lot less expensive than the fuel pump they kept insisting it was. I've had no problems since. It only took them 2 1/2 hours to order part and install.

I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it stalled on the road several times while driving. It just turned off. IAfter researching online I decided to change the Crank Position Sensor and have had no more stalls. However it is now running very rough when idling at stop lights and it just does not seem to have as much power. It has also made a poping sound under the hood. The longer I drive it in town the worse it gets. It runs great on the open road. What do you think it is?

I had the same problem with my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 177k miles it starting shutting off while running. The computer in the auto parts gave me 90 possible problems, I minus well buy a new car with the $ I was going to spend. I called the JEEP dealer and they said that they would not charge me for the diagnostic if it was something simple. Since the problem wasn't continuous they had to keep it over night until the problem occurred so they charged me 85.00. Finally it did while connected to their computer and it was the Crank position sensor. The dealer was going to charge me 325.00 to do the job but I got the part for 90.00 on ebay. The tech told me that please if I was going to do it myself to not buy cheap parts and buy the original MOPAR ones. The dealer had them for 180.00 but he told me as long as it was Mopar original I could buy it anywhere He mentioned that I could get one for 20 bucks on line but he does not recommend it. I changed it a week ago and thank God its running like a champ. This was a very frustrating problem. Even though the dealer ended up charging me to check it I recommend you take it to the dealer to avoid guessing. The tech told me that he was 100% sure that the problem was that sensor

Thanks! I found a garage near my house and they didn't charge me to run a diagnostic and it was the crank sensor as well! They charged me $200 (parts and labor) and it's been running well.

Don't pay all that money to have your crankshaft position sensor replaced. You can do it yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q2Q4X-RP3s

I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it just shuts off and back on while Im driving, its now just starting up whenever the hell it wants, put the key in a click, then try it again and starts right back up. I found a recall for the ignition switch, but the part won't be made available until mid september. This is a Huge safety issue and they are just dragging their feet.

Changed crank sensor wires and plugs still won't start...... Any help please????

I have a 1994 jeep Cherokee sport 4wheel drive. I get up to 35mph and it cuts out spits and spudders and back fires. Iv changed fuel pump, fuel filter, alternator, spark plugs, crank sensors. Iv taken throttle body off and cleaned it and cleaned all sensors as well. Iv done just about everything and still can't figure it out. Anybody have an idea on what it might be? Tired of fighting with it !

after changing fuel pump and filter it was the crank sensor on my 2002 grand cherokee

My carb floater was stuck wide open pouring gas into carb. Did a rebuild and problem went away for a while. Your engine could be choking on gas. Then it only did it when it rained. Changed distributor cap and it stopped being moisture sensitive. Still have trouble getting started. No not the starter. It feels like gas isn't getting up to the carb.

check the float adjustment make sure the float needle is not sticking in the bore

PLEASE HELP!! I have a 1999 jeep Cherokee and when i am a going from a dead stop to about 25mph it will sometime stall and then shut down. i then am usually sitting in the middle of the road trying to throw it into park and restart the engine before i get into a car accident. it has been happening more and more often. since i am a college student i live about 300 miles from home so i'm not really able to drive home to my local mechanic. and giving that i am a college student i am also broke, so i'm looking for has had this problem and might be able to help me out before i am left walking everywhere.

I am glad to see I am not the only one experiencing this problem. Thank you all for your advise. I was told it may be the crank sensor, I hope that's all it is, because stalling out at 11:30pm on a dark road with your 15 year old daughter on the curb of a major highway is not something I want to ever happen again.

the jeep i been working on seven days straight changed everything but the title....wont stay running cuts off unexpected, no warning..all new parts..apparently i wasnt the only one...

I tried the two screws in the computer thing tonight. My poor ol jeep..I changed, everything... except the computer and the fuel pump. all the sensors, cap, pick up coil, button, all the throttle sensors, catalytic converter, fuel filter, if shortening those two screws in the computer works tomorrow I will be stunned.. I changed everything but the logos on the side that said Jeep.. lol.. ill be posting what happens soon..

I HAVE TO SAY AND LISTEN VERY CAREFULLY PEOPLE WITH 96 JEEP PROBLEMS.... that idea about shortening the screws in the computer,,,,WORKS...it actually WORKS.. I changed everything..AND i MEAN everything on the jeep...THANK YOU AND BEYOND FOR THIS PAGE... it seems dumb..BUT IT ACTUALLY WORKS... stop buying parts and DO IT.. save yourself a boat load of money..

Plug in a decent code reader like a Mac Mentor, (the cheap 40$ ones from autozone doesnt give realtime data) you should be able to tell right away if its the cam or crank sensor, and what cyls if any are mis firing. Usualy the shutdown is a combination of a bad coil pack/plugs and crank pos sensor. The cam sensor is cheap to buy and easy to replace. The crank sensor is not, make sure you dont buy the cheapest one you can get, because they are hard to change and you will have to change it right after install because they are junk. I got my 3rd one from Summit Racing, it fixed the problem. Make sure you reset the computer after install, so it learns how to run with the new components. There is a procedure you can google if you dont want or have a scantool to reset it.

you all should do this

over 1 year now with no problems ... $3.00 fix lol ace hardware large strap ties -heavy duty ties pull real dam tight with pliers

It depends how it's dying, but if it's going say from 2000 rpm to zero all at once the cam sensor (which is actually in the distributor) and the coil should both be replaced as the first attempt. (99 and earlier in-line 6's only, I don't know what the v-8's and such have). I don't know why the cam sensor is so finicky, but in the old days we all knew about coils breaking. The high voltage coil is of very thin wiring and if there is a weak spot it can break. The coil may still work when it is cool but when it gets hot a gap may develop which prevents the electricity from doing it's thing. No electricity goes directly from the battery to the spark plugs. The electricity goes to a fairly resilient thick wired coil that generates a large magnetic field, and the fluctuations in this magnetic field create the high voltage in the other side of the coil. If one of the wires in the coil breaks (almost always high voltage side), strange things happen. I'm not sure why the cam sensor is so fragile, but a mechanic told me if you are replacing one replace them both. Might help but with cars being so electronic now there is so many things that can go wrong. My jeep, none of the buttons would work for power windows except the driver's side controls. I found a video online that showed how to take the switch apart and re-solder the circuit board and problem fixed. I think it's quite possible many of the solder connections are prone to stress fractures like this switch was. So it means all modern cars are basically useless after 20 years even with good maintenance because of all the electronics.

Changed cam/crank/idle air/throttle body sensors and pcv value, still cuts off randomly but always starts back up. 99 grand Cherokee v8????

I have changed all censors and pcm 2013 hit a bump,(hard) lol and now back to cutting off after 7-10 mins. I would like to sell my 4x4 for 2000 o/b/o. So many new parts! 267 k. breaks my ❤ to sell.good truck. Fayetteville n.c.

Wow. I was going to change the pcm but dealer said it wasn't the issue. Yes, looks like I'm going get rid of ol' betsy may check out one the regulators and see what happens, the last heehaaa!

Replace the oxygen sensor closest to the exhaust manifold or unplug it and test drive to see if it runs better first

Had the same problem aftermarket O2 sensors only last a little while just by unplugging it make the truck run a million times better

Thanks, will try it.

my 2004 jeep cherokee has 90k on it, the engine runs perfect until recently it stalled and the engine light came on, it restarted after 10 seconds, then a bit down the road, it did it again, the funny thing was before stalling the rpm gauge would shoot up to 2500 rpm without the engine reeving up, i disconnected the battery cables and reconnected, the engine light went off and it ran fine for about 40 miles, then did the same thing again. Im thinking a sensor problem, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, i live far away from a jeep dealership.

Idle air control sensor and probably throttle body position sensor

Anyone reading this try to change the Crankshaft Position Sensor! I did so on my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee that kept shutting off while I was driving and now it runs great!!

The Voo Doo fix works and so simple! 1) 1996 JGC, 4L. About four years ago I had the engine stall problem just like all the previous descriptions. I cleaned the three ECM connectors with toothbrush and CRC QD quick drying connector cleaner. Both sides. Tie wrapped the connectors to the ECM and worked for four years without a problem. 2) Fast forward to today. 261K miles on the Jeep. Identical symptoms and getting worse by the day. So I thought I just needed to clean the connectors and replaced the tie wraps. Did NOT work!!! So since I knew the problem was in the that area I took the Vood Doo advice and backed out the two #15 Torx screws on the left and right side on the FACE of the ECM. Works perfectly!!!!!. I recommend to do all of the above. Do not just put in parts until you have done the above!

I had the exact same problem: the engine would just randomly turn off while driving or even sitting still. I replaced the crank sensor, but it didn't fix the problem. I tried the "Voo Doo" fix and it worked perfectly. 1) Removed the coolant overflow reservoir (3 10mm bolts). 2) Unclipped the 3 large connectors that plug into the computer on the firewall. 3) Removed the two #15 Torx screws and cut them in half using a hack saw and a vice. 4) Reinstalled the Torx screws without over tightening. 5) Reinstalled the 3 electrical connections to the computer. 6) I used some really long zip ties to wrap around the computer box and pull electrical connectors close. See Steve's picture above. 7) Reinstalled the coolant overflow tank. I have had no problems at all since doing this crazy repair.

replaced a faulty throttle position sensor with a napa one.i ran good for me or my daughter but always stalled on my wife?i drove it my mechanic drove it no problem.she drives it boom stall.changes to a mopar throttle sensor problem gone.jeeps are fussy and wifes driving habits caused aftermarkey part to fail.only use oem parts .

IF YOU CHANGE ANY ELECTRICAL PART MAINLY SENSORS YOU MUST USE ONLY ORIGINAL MANUFACTURED MOPAR PARTS OR YOU ARE GOING TO WASTE YOUR MONEY!! NOW THATI HAVE CHAGED OUT MY AFTERMARKET PARTS MY JEEP RUNS PERFECT AGAIN!! I LIVED THIS NIGHTMARE

JUST BECAUSE YOUR SCAN TOOL SAYS SOMETHING DON'T MAKE THAT THE PROBLEM.IF YOUR VEHICLE STALLS THE FIRST MAYBE CODES ARE MAF OR MAP.POOR TRANSMISSION SHIFTS AND ERATIC IDLING AND STALLING CAN BE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.NEVER USE ANYTHING BUT MOPAR PARTS /ORIGINAL OEM PARTS OR YOU WILL NEVER BE HAPPY.JEEPS DON'T LIKE AFTERMARKET ELECTRICAL PART'S THEY JUST DON'T COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER PROPERLY.DON'T TRY TO SAVE A BUCK AND DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!! I WENT THROUGH THIS FOR MONTHS TILL I CHANGED OUT THE NEW AFTERMARKET PARTS WITH OEM NOW SHE RUNS PERFECT AGAIN. NO MORE STALLING

Hi everyone! These solutions seem very promising for my problem (2004 grand cherokee). But no one has mentioned all of my symptoms: -Engine turns off and on (right back) while driving, or completely dies if parked. No problem to turn it on again. -Dashboard dies: all gauges fall, even RPM. O/d button resets if activated. -Headlights and radio stay on, no change during the stalls. Only dashboard lights and gauges briefly die. What I have done: -already changed CPU and Crank position sensor. problem persists. -battery works fine even after long periods of no use. HELP!!!! please!

Above - Same jeep, same issue here. Was told to check the vacuum hoses for leaks. Starting with the end connector under battery tray.

My daughter has this problem but after getting her oil changed it goes away. It happened again and it was time for an oil change. Not sure it's connected but changing the oil fixes it temporarily or at least until time for another oil change.

Having the same issue.What I did was found an auto wrecking place and starting buying parts off wrecked jeeps same year and model. Saved money that way. Bought an ECM for 75 bucks so far worked out for me.

Over a year ago, My 2001 Jeep limited Grand Cherokee 4x4 began turning off while driving and it seemed it did it more when the weather was hot. The check engine never came on and the mechanics could not find anything wrong. Finally, this hot summer it began turning off again and fortunately, the check engine did come on. They found the problem: P0108-MAP sensor voltage too high. Found shorted map sensor. Replaced mapsensor, clear code, test drive, vehicle ok at this time. Hope this will help someone.

lights short out while driving car shuts down 2007 Jeep Wangler Why ?Wont restart condensor ?

Crank sensor

My problems are combinatios of yours: grand cherokee 2000. 3.1 td engine. Engine rebuilded completely, 4-5 days working good, 6 day wont start. Disconnect the battery, after 1 hour starts, and again 4-5 days good. Sometimes while driving shuts off but then I can start it back up. Any ideas? Also my instrument cluster died.

Had this same problem changed a bunch of stuff out and problem persisted. The fix was replacing the cpu. This was easy to figure out once i got a little more involved with it. The cpu on my jeep is located on the firewall on the passenger side of the car its a black box that has a wiring harness going to it. In my case i would wiggle the wiring harness connected to the cpu and the car would die just like it was doing while driving. first thought at this time was it was the connection from the wiring harness to the cpu did many modifications to make a better connection but nothing worked. changed out the cpu and its been 2 years without an issue. Hopefully that help.

I just recently struggled with a stalling problem on my 96 Jeep Cherokee sport. I changed the ECU, O2 sensors Etc, Then I found the real problem. The wire cable that runs from the fire wall alongside the right side of the engine had broken a clip. The cable and connector was now very close to the rear spark plug wire. About ¾” away. The spark plug wire was cross talking and confusing the ECU. The car would stall after a few minutes of running. I pushed the cable back up against the firewall and secured it with a tie wrap. Problem Solved.

I have codes come up PO422 AND PO456 HOW DO I FIX THIS

Also found out that in the Jeep transmission if the fluid is a little low it will shut the engine down to prevent damage. Check the fluid level while warm and in neutral.

Ok, so I’m a mechanic myself and I had a 96 grand Cherokee with a 4.0 straight 6 cylinder with 225k. I had the same exact problem. This problem caused me a lot of headaches. So I’m going to share my experience and hopefully help someone else out. So here’s what happened. One day I’m driving my Jeepfpr about 30 minutes, and while I’m driving down the road at 55 mph, the engine just stalls for a second. Then it cuts right back on. A few weeks later it did it again, and again, and again. Finally it got to the point where I could drive the Jeep for about half an hour before it would start doing this. It seemed so random and it ended up getting a lot worse. Sometimes It would cut itself back on if I was moving, other times I would have to put it in nuetral and try to start it back up, other times I had to pull off the road and wait a few minutes before it would start back up. It’s very scary to think that at any moment your car could just cut off. So I got to all the forums I can find with, of corse, so many answers! But I’m hearing one thing in particular, I keep seeing people say crackshaft position sensor. So I tried that, it’s not very fun to get too unless you have small hands. This did not solve the issue. So I go back to the forums with noting that really sounds like it would be the cause. I’ve never heard or seen a bad oxygen sensor cause any car to do this, yet I saw a lot of people saying o2 sensors. There are so many sensors on a car and when one goes out, the computer can take info from other sensors to keep the engine running smooth. And since there was no check engine light, there was really no starting point. Finally I go into work one day and recall that one of my co workers used to work for a Chrysler, dodge, Jeep dealership for 15 years. So I asked him if he had heard of these grand cherokees doing this. He said that it was a very common problem with these models. He asked me if I changed the crank position sensor, to which I said yes, then he asked if it was mopar, and it was. Then he said ok, go get a wrench, start it up, and the PowerTrain control module (PCM) is right behind the coolant resivior, mounted to the firewall, he said with the car running (I can’t stress this word enough) LIGHTLY tap the PCM. I said ok, went outside, and did it, the second I tapped the wrench on the PCM, the engine stalled. I went back inside and told him what happened and he he said “you need a PCM buddy” I went to a local junkyard and looked for PCM’s. Every 96 Grand Cherokee they had on the lot that still had PCM’s were from v8’s. All the 6 cylinder PCMs we’re gone, out of 9 of them. I guess that shows that it is a common problem. I just went ahead and ordered one online for $100, they will ask your mileage and vin so they can program it. It’s very easy to change out, I think two 10mm bolts to take off the coolant resivior, then three 8mm bolts to remove the computer itself. After I installed the new one, i think I drove around for three hours that night with no issues, I was overjoyed, it has now been two year since then and I have not had any issues with the Jeep since. Replace the PCM, after you try a Crank sensor, common problem on these 6 cylinders

99 Grand Cherokee, same issue was running down the highway about 72mph and it died. Neutral tried to start didn't. Got over called AAA and repeatedly tried to start it not enough to drain the battery. Nothing. Had it flatbedded home about 12 13 miles. Got in it starts....after about 15 mins it dies no sputter just cuts off. Hmmm coil pack module heats up and shuts down. Changed coil mod and presto no messing with a computer just 4 bolts and a plug. Oh make sure you get the right one. Connection facing up , down miss fires and cylinders are out of order. Happy trails!!

Doing have answer I have question. I have changed all sensors ,fuel filter,new timing chain, jeep was running like a champ for awhile. I stepped on accelerator it shift to passing gear then immediately shut down. Turns over makes sound like a bad starter and that's it . I'm doing a compression check to see if I have compression

Have 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it shuts off while driving...starts back up and stalls out at red lights...just looked at the computer where some say ( there is a screw at left hand side directly below wiring harness. Well my jwwp has no screws on fire wall...not for computer anyway. Now...what to do.

I have a similar problem however my check engine light isn't coming on and my jeep runs smoothly EXCEPT when I hit a speed bump everything shuts off and I coast to a stop. In my case I found some exposed wires and when I hit a bump they would touch a bolt which was causing everything to ground out and shut off. Not sure what this will cost me to fix yet but here's a picture hopefully this will help someone.

I have a 1996 jeep Cherokee classic and after driving for a bit when you stop at a stop light or in a parking lot and it shuts off and won't start back up until you let it sit

Folks, I had the same problem on my '98 GC. Started very infrequently, then got progressively worse until it became dangerous to drive. My advice, forget all the sensor fixes, save yourself all the time and hassle and go straight to the ECM replacement. It is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. I found a great company that sells rebuilt ECM's for approximately $200. I replaced mine in approximately 2 hours and the problem was solved. All you need to do is remove the antifreeze overflow tank and follow the direction to swap the ECM. (There is a sequence you must follow to do it correctly)....Also another helpful hint....when you remove the antifreeze overflow, remove the lower bolts on the bracket that attache the bracket to the fender well, not the upper ones that attache the canister to the bracket... You can find the part at https://carcomputerexchange.com/jeep/cat_3.html.

My 99 Jeep Cherokee is doing the same exact thing as all you guys are saying. I thought it was a loose hose but it's not. I just got my jeep but it's my dream jeep. However I'm finding out there are alot of original parts on her. I think from reading all this I'm going to start with the ECM. Fingers crossed!

That should solve your problem. After swapping out my ECM, I have not had one stall and it has been at least 6 weeks. It is easy to do, just make sure you follow the directions of how long to have the power disconnected. Happy Jeeping....My '98 GC has 283,000 miles on her and still going strong. Looks brand new

Hi everyone, My 2002 Cherokee Renage Doesn’t Start after It’s been driven for a while. I need to wait ‘till it’s cools down before it starts again.

It's the crank sensor

I had the stall on idle issue in my 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0. Replaced the oil, battery, Idle Air Control valve, Throttle Position sensor, fuel filter. Still not working. I also had clicking relays and no codes displaying or check engine light. Ultimately it was the PCM/PCU (Computer) which I bought off Ebay (they program your VIN and mileage into it) for $135. It was a quick install and immediately my car was back on the road.

I have a 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee laredo.it shut off at the atm the other day , left it running while I got out came back not running, turned key to crank position spun over but didn't start, turned ignition off then back on started right up. It's done it several times since.Ok I have a manual I bought at the auto store ,found out if you put the key in the ignition turn key on off on off then on and watch the check engine light or on mine the digital milage read out it will give you a code or codes then show done , goes back to milage reading.helped me hope it helps you.this procedure works don't star vehicle while turning key on and off.

2002 grand Cherokee ,I got to Jeep my foot on gas pedal for IT not to die? help

Could be an oxygen sensor..my brother used a computer on ours and that code came up for it..see have been having the same problem..looks like we are going to have to tried that.

2009 Grand Cherokee; 100k miles. 6 cylinder 3.7(I think). Driving down highway 60-70 mph. Stalled (all power went off, gauges all went to 0.). Key seemed like it had bounced to the off position! Left in drive and turned key to on, restarted right away. Was the key posit just my imagination or is this separate than the problems in this thread?

On one engine will start up and run but when you put it in gear it's dark and start to accelerate it starts to chug it could be the fuse in the evaporator system on your tank check fuse box for this specific fuse replace it it may help

I had the exact same problem my 91 wrangler 4.0 shut down while driving, no trouble codes flashing, no warning light, no check engine, after researching all I could in the internet an replace every sensor, wiring, fuel pump had my ECM lab tested etc.etc., I decide to make a contact wire whit a couple of alligator clips at the ends to direct crank the engine, it occurs to me to hold and wiggle the connector to the coil while cranking and the dam thing start right up, so I just press it down whit my tweezers trying to make it connect tighter and work ok for a while, after that every time that stalls on me I just went to the tighten the connector routine . It is a problem trying to find a replacement, I end up ordering mine over the internet and last a couple a month’s to arrive, needless to say that a 20 dollar fix could have save me hundreds if I only knew better .

My son just got a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 and had the engine stall out while at an idle, or going from putting slight gas, to releasing it and once it dips just below 500 RPM it'll typically die off. Most consistent we've gotten it to replicate this is backing up our driveway slowly (has a slight incline, requiring engine to work a little more). Didn't stall out coasting without gas pressed. Trying to figure this one out.

Mine is 2001 JGC 4.0. Stalled on idle which got steadily worse over time. I had this issue about 1.5 years ago. I tried all the mentioned stuff and after swapping out 3-4 parts (fuel filter/sensors/checked all the grounds, etc), I eventually took mine to the shop and they said they couldn't get any codes from the computer. (They wanted $1000 to replace the computer) So I bought a rebuilt PCM (computer) on Ebay for ~$130 and sent them my VIN & mileage which they need to program into the PCM. Once it arrived I swapped it in about 15 minutes and wallah, it's been running and idling fine ever since.

I have a 2001 GC 4.0 inline 6. I first noticed it when I was driving about 45-50mph and it just died. I was at about 2k rpms and it just dropped to 0. No power steering, nothing except all my electrical was still on. It also does the same thing at idle sometimes too. I’ll leave it idoling for a few minutes and I’ll come back and it’s dead. Today I replaced the coil pack, and plugs in hopes that it was a simple fix. I was wrong. There’s a lot of different recommended fixes and successors on this forum, and I don’t even know where to start. My check engine light was on before I changed the coil pack, and the codes read cylinder misfiring 1,2,3. It went off once I changed everything and now my check engine light is off and I don’t have any codes. But I stilllll have the issue. I’m going to try the ecm tapping thing in the morning. Maybe that will steer me in the right direction. I’m not very mechanically inclined, but I’d rather exhaust my efforts before I take it to a shop so it’s going to be easier to narrow down and get me back on the road. I test drove it after the coil pack swap and it drove fine, I came back home and let it idol for just a second and wham. Dead. The oil pressure gauge was at 0, all the rest of the gauges were fine. So maybe it’s oil related. Wish me luck.

I have the same problem. Replaced crank sensor, shocked all wires, tapped computer. When driving all the dials bounce around before it shuts off. Been to the mechanic 3 times. They can’t figure it out.

I recently had a similar problem with my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited (4.7 L Flex Fuel) where it would stall while driving on the highway. It would suddenly just shut off and I would lose power steering and brakes. All the electrical components would stay on and there were no lights on the dash. A few times I was able to put the car in neutral and restart it without any issues but it would stall a few miles later. It never had issues restarting after it stalled. We were driving back from Florida to Virginia and ended up leaving it in Georgia for diagnostics. They were very helpful and could not replicate the problem after replacing the ignition cylinder/switch, which was on recall. I picked it up and around South Carolina (200 miles of driving) it started to stall while driving again. I read some of these forums and attempted to replace the crank shaft sensor and the camshaft sensor (while in the parking lot of an auto store) but it did not solve the issue. I limped it back to Virginia and dropped it off at a Jeep Service Center close to home. They replaced the PCM module and the ignition cylinder (again) but it did not fix the issue. I had replaced the spark plugs in November prior to leaving for Florida with Iridium spark plugs. I did let both service centers know but they did not seem concerned and said there were no codes regarding the spark plugs. I did active readings while driving and noticed a surge in the power just prior to it stalling. About 1 month ago I changed them out for traditional copper spark plugs and since that time I have not had any issues with it stalling. I have put about 1,000 miles on it since replacing the spark plugs back to copper and it has not stalled once. I read on a previous post that some of the older models of jeep grand Cherokees had similar issues with using platinum spark plugs, so it seems the same is true for iridium spark plugs. If you are having the same issue, I would suggest changing back to the copper spark plugs first before spending a ton of money in service center charges for diagnostics.

I have a 2000 4.0L XJ and I want to try the Voo Doo fix but the computer on my Jeep is located by the air filter drivers side. Has anyone used this fix method on a 97-01 XJ 4.0L? just curious to see if it worked on this generation of XJs.

lets face it guys the jeep grand is getting old and needs some TLC i had a complete no start and replaced everything under the hood and did'nt get the results i wanted. i finally dove into the wiring harness going from the PCM to injectors and to sensors and them to top and sides of tranny and oh what a mess !!! i found the transmission plug (main) had exposed wire at bottom and twisting it caused them to short out. and the relays were the next nightmare. Most if not all the relay contacts were loose and none were making a good connection and themselves started causing problems with shorts from insufficient contact. They would heat up wiring and eventually smoked my PCM like an after dinner cigarette .WOW what a sight that was as my heart was thrown to the floor and stomped on. It made me feel like the 25 years i put into mechanics was all for nothing. But after going through wiring and tightening every plug and contact ,cleaning all grounds ,i pumped some life into its withering metal body and its doing ok, .We have a 97 with a 5.2 and its been a trooper and is still running flawless ,but we have done the upkeep on that one, and did not snooze or hesitate to change problems pronto. The Jeep has always been good to me and never left me completely stranded, so i think i will keep them around.Both have recieved ew fuel pumps to, they burn out and will sit there and run with nothing coming out of them.

I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Sport with a 5.2l V8 with 206,000 miles on it. I had a problem with my Jeep jerking and bucking while driving so not knowing what it was I replaced the Spark Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, Fuel Injectors, Map sensor, TPS, and IACV basically all 3 sensors on my Throttle Body. And the check engine light went off, but now after I let the Jeep engine get to optimal running temperature. and start driving the bucking and jerking is gone its running smoothly but Im experiencing engine stalling and dying now. It will Start back up but why would it do this after I replaced basically everything except for the Fuel pump and O2 sensors. I even took out the fuel rail and cleaned all of the carbon build up out of it with a wire bush. I've done a smoke check for any vacuum leaks and nothing. I'm at a loss. What should I do next.