I tend to avoid any long-distance car buy, even if I want to make a deal for one in another state, I'll travel there first THEN plunk down the cash once I see the title and inspect the car. That said, the way most car scams work on Craigslist, which is certainly how many of them will work here or other online classifieds, is to claim a car that is for sale is held in storage somewhere, and the owner is off in the military somewhere and can't release it, so if you'll wire money to get it released you can pick it up. Scammers go after sellers too, claiming they'll pay your asking price with a cashiers check, plus an additional amount that they'll need you to forward to their mover. Of course you'll have to wire that amount to the name they give you. You cash the check thinking you've been paid, then wire the extra amount out as they ask, then later find out the check was fake. The golden rule is, never wire money for a car deal. Ever. If you accept a check as payment, make it for exactly the amount of the sale. Never "refund" or wire extra funds above your asking price. If the buyer wants to use a shipper, the buyer can pay them themselves. If a buyer or seller goes into story mode, cease communicating with them, they are just wasting your time or setting you up for a scam. If you think you might be in a bad deal, just walk away from it, double for long-distance deals. There will always be another deal out there. I'd rather pay a little more for a deal within 50 miles of me, rather than one several hundred miles from me (exotic and classic cars being the exception). It's a total PITA to ship a car or bring one home, it can cost a few hundred to several hundred.