I have a 2000 mazda millenia se. It is knocking, poor idle, less pick-up when driving.
The car has a rough idle, slow pick up when starting out at lights, stop signs, etc. While driving the car it shakes. It seems like the engine is straining. Also, the check engine light is on.
And your question is about what?
I am asking what could be the cause for my car to be acting like this.
LOTS OF THINGS...... Obviously you aren't going to fix it yourself. Do what the little light is saying. ,.Get it checked .
Don't pay any attention to that individual. They wouldn't know a Miller-Cycle engine if one fell on them! I wouldn't recommend driving the car. Take a good look under the hood for anything that may be disconnected or perhaps broken on you intake system: tubing, clamps etc. Since the intake is under constant pressure, an air leak can cause it to run very rough. Your best bet is to have a Mazda Professional check it out. It isn't a regular setup under the hood....and ignore people who think that LUGNUTS is a High-Fiber cereal.
I said all you needed to know in three little words...".Get it checked"
@Tracy - there could have been a Wankle in there for all I cared,the only advice still is the same - get it checked (both so called marvels of ICE engineering went the way of the Dodo Bird - not quite extinct- but close enough)
Obviously @Chassy you don't know me. I do all the work on my cars because I am disabled with no income. My husband is a disabled Veteran. We don't have money to take it to a shop so they can bleed us dry. My daughter has a car doing the same thing and was taken to a shop 7 months ago. Paid $1500 and it is doing what we took it in for. So, if you don't want to help people why do you even bother to comment. You are not the type of person I would ever want to meet.
Thank you Tracy. It is a good place to start. Thank you for the ideas. Other people just need to go on facebook and taunt their friends instead of sickly women. Thank you so much and God Bless You!
sorry but if indeed you do ALL THE WORK on your cars you would have known what the check engine light meant and at least started the question asking for suggestions about what to do, "I have had a scan and the codes are xxxxx which points toward xxxxxxx, where might I start." Then to work on an odd ball engine that saw limited use (at Best) would also mean that your question was misleading at best.
I appreciate your situation. My concern regarding your vehicle is that it is a very uncommon powertrain (although really, really cool!). If you paid a shop to work on it and it isn't any better - I recommend that you contact them and sternly demand that they repair it at no additional cost. In some states (like here in California) there is a bureau of Automotive repair that will see to it that you get your money back, your car repaired or both!
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If you don't want to help then just keep you opinions to yourself. Obviously I wasn;t to unclear on what I was saying. I did get a real answer. I feel as though I need to end my talking to you, cause I feel you are in need of a lot of attention in which case I am not giving it to you! Thanks but no thanks! '
@Tracey Thank you again. I was thinking since it has been 7 months since the car was fixed, that they wouldn't be liable to fix it at no cost. I will look into the bureau of Automotive repair. I am in South Carolina and this is a poor state and little to offer, but I will check and see if their is any source that can help.
On one breathe you say "I do all the work": then immediately say " 7 months since the car was fixed , that THEY wouldn't be...." ........which is it I or THEY.
Sorry spelled their instead of there.
no you said "THEY WOULDN'T BE LIABLE TO FIX IT AT NO COST"
Why isn't there a "Report Jerks" button on this forum?
@Tracy Lol! And last words I have for chassy. I never said when I started working on my car, or what led me to do so. Did your smarter than most mentality ever stop to think the repair bill is what led me to working on my cars? Also I have taken mechanic courses in the past through a trade school. So again, I am not going to humor you anymore, See if you can get attention elsewhere.
its funny my car does the same thing. there are some things that chassy is saying that is true like getting the codes checked out. you can buy a code reader for fairly cheap like $100 to $200 dollars but if you are like me trying to make it day to day then this might be out of the question. you can have it brought to the dealership and be charged $100 to $200 for them just to check it out and tell you the problem but then you are in the same boat. if you can drive the car at all you can take it to a auto part store and have them run the codes for free and this is the best bet. The major problem here is that the car has the Miller Cycle supercharged engine and a lot can go wrong from intake gasket leaks to bad coils and the ones in the rear of the motor are a bugger to get to. the gasket kits for these can only be bought through the dealer and there seems to be also a common problems with the injectors getting plugged up. not to talk about the common problem with the transmission slipping and the power steering leaking. here is what you have to remember about cars in genera, they are like the human body. They need fuel to run spark to go and air to breath if there is a problem with any one of these it can cause problems with the performance of the car. like I said I have a 1995 S model myself and am having the same problems high idles when you start chugs and wants to die when driving it seems to do fine till you come to a stop sign or light then again it chugs and or wants to die. going up hills or acceleration is slow and some time I get honked at when testing it out. here is what I'm thinking there is a problem in the fuel system where it doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel for the demand. could be pump or filter but the best thing if you are going to throw parts at it is go cheap first and them chose the more expensive parts to replace. for example the fuel filter might only be $20 but a fuel pump is $240 I'm got to replace the filter first. vac. lines get brittle and break check them and the diagram is under the hood to see where they all go. even if you want get a can of carb clean and spray around the intake and spray the vac lines when running to see if there is a change in the idle if there is look where you sprayed it. it is not going to be fun but just know there are more just like you out there with this can and we are all swearing at the top of our voices. $400 FOR A FRICKING EGR. lol if you find out the problem please post it.
I just bought a 2000 mazda millenia s and in doing so I inherited all its issues too. At first it sounded really clunky and would bogg down on hills or wjen I would have to break a lot or go slow so I took it in paid 1100 to have a coil replaced and a gasket set. Then I get my car back ans its seems to be running great except for when I put it in drive and then come to a stop the car it shakes and kinda tries to jump forward. Then a couple days pass and suddenly its overheating and its idling really rough now so I take it back in and now my radiator has a crack in it but the b@#% won't act up around the mechanic or my huaband so they think im loosing my mind, please help. 69.
