where is the relay for the power windows?

turn the key to run. press the switch to raise the glass, pound on the trim panel. since you hear it operate the relay the relay functions. Your cause can be the master switch. once the glass is raised, you can disconnect battery and remove master sw. to disassemble and inspect or run tests on with an ohm meter. if the glass would not raise you can effect repairs or replace the switch if found at fault. try that and see what else you could need.

Your problem is more than likely: 1) in the master switch itself. (The contacts that reverse the polarity to change the motor direction from down to up become worn out of displaced inside the switch causing the window to only work in one direction) or 2) The motor/regulator assembly in the door has worn out or just stopped working. You can remove the switch from the door, and use jumper wire to the drivers window connector pins to move the window up or down. If you get the window to go up this way, you know the regulator is good & just replace the switch.

I just said that. since Fords dont fall apart at the regulator like other vehicles, it can be simplified to the actions, before specific testing. Water entry can stick a drive motor but using a medium ford wrench can fix anything but a broken switch. They are the most often causal part given. a broken wire would be last, and a fresher motor would be second, in my humble experience anyway. Hope this re simplifies the diagnosis, PS have a nice day.

Michael, I have no idea what he is talking about, unless you messaged him direct. I just gave you a bit more detail in simpler language, about how you can check to see if it is the regulator/motor or the switch itself. As to a medium Ford wrench, I never owned one or heard of one. As to the Ford regulators falling apart like others do, I couldn't tell you. Having owned an auto glass repair shop, I can tell you that GM regulators usually have cables that jump the pulleys and stop working, Chryslers have plastic strips in them with teeth moulded into them which wear out or grind the teeth off or just snap in two and stop working, and Fords have a tendency to snap off at the window glass mounts, none of which sound like your problem. As to the broken wire, I can tell you after 45 years experience in the auto repair industry, is that all makes can break a wire where the harness goes out from the door and into the fender wall. I guess some people just can't speak simply enough so that everyone can understand them, sounding like they write for the technical repair manuals, which is what the first and third replies here sound like, and get insulted when they get a follow up question for clarification or when others post a different or simpler worded answer, if that is the case here. PS, I hope everyone, everywhere has a nice day!

That was an interesting discussion of other cars, I have also seen them fail, In my years working at Ford, we had an affectionate name for freeing a sticky part. some require more persuasion than others. Since he already had the info, I was awaiting his simple prechecks for a simple answer. It is too bad We as Technicians have to read in order to communicate, and use specific language to avoid confusion. But thank you for the added info.

You're very welcome Danny, and incase you didn't know, before I added the simplified answer, I did mark your's as helpful.

I appreciate that, i suppose. Sorry about the troll check, It would be nice to know if the help actually helps the asker.

LMAO Danny! I get so many emails from so many sights for help and rarely does anyone let you know anything! If you read any of my other posts, I actually started adding "Please let me know how you make out" and surprisingly, many of them do. Give it a shot, it's nice to know once in a while if we are helping or pissing into a fan! I do find though that answering so many questions actually feels good, as opposed to just doing all the dam work all the time. Enjoy.

I am a disabled Fireman, needs help,my 2002 mercury Sable LS . My power windows and dome light all went out same time and the mirror lights all went out,did #1 large fuse under dash,checked #27,checked the door Not the wires pinched.please need help bad

This is the first posting need help,Disabled Fireman. I am not so good with computers.

The fuse panel underdash fuses 1 and 27 were eliminated, right? is there a fuse out in the power distribution box under the hood? can you hear a relay trying to work? then, for your year, is there any fuses or breakers that are designated for power windows? We almost always dealt with the master switch on these. water, coffee, or similar beverage enters the switch pod? If you are good with small parts, and the testing leads you to verify power and ground there, they can be taken apart and cleaned. Since yours is a different car in the same thread here, and what we wrote is not helping, I suggest a schematic, be sure all the circuits with power and ground feed supply the master switch as they should. inspect the master switch. Look at where your protections are throughout the system and newer locations that could exist like PDB box and passenger side electrics in the kick panel area. I wish I had the EVTM here like your Ford service department has, its a quickie goto book. Autozone may have a free schematic to look up. and after 10 years, some Ford dealers donate books to the library, or the mitchell database may be offered in house there. The car's owners guide supplied when new can tell where fuses and breakers are located. what they power, etc. foolin with the master switch can get it working sometimes to help indicate. Looking all this up would take me time since my computer is clunky and slow today. defrag and cleaning, here.

Thanks for some help,which fuse in distribution is it. I know it is just a fuse when I was checking the mirror lights were staying on I shorted it out and that's were it all stared.I work on cars for 40 years and just coming off back surgery, driving me crazy!

Did do #1 and 27,38 inside car door not a drop of rust in door module, wires don't have a dent or pinch in that,but my pedals are adjustable and 1 is working. Thank you so much for your answering my problem. I'm used to helping people not myself.

This is junction box

A 12v test light is used to test for power to both sides of each and every fuse. when a tech evaluates an electrical issue, he must have knowledge of each and every fuse that is being affected, in the event his circuit or circuits relate to one another. restoring power without all the info can start using up fuses that cost him or his customer. the info starts to add up. but to what? you say "i shorted it out" you must look at the schematic, or the quick checks in the EVTM literature. I find that operating the circuits or creating available current to test for, at the fuses, then verifying the power is getting to them and thru them is a valid test. Knowing what other items are in use in the circuit helps me find what inspection makes the best sense and tells how far it has to be taken apart. If more fuses were found affected ? I can make a note of what does what to what, or ask if there are further, possibly unrelated things with the car. People sometimes change the story or the info available. the notes you take helps you get the schematics you would need. It's a way to have the next page to attach beside where your wire could run off the schematic diagram. A Ford dealer might be nice enough to let you see their EVTM and/ or photocopy enough to help. The loss of switch operation may not show visible rust because it is non ferrous metals in a plastic case. they corrode, or blacken, or turn green. inside, where the spilled beverage may have entered. The newer ones are not what they once were. these things are simpler, lighter weight, and take on the technology of finer cars, but not their former glory, lets say, for being more waterproof. All that weight or added completeness of the parts that proved out on heavier cars is being brought forth in a car that is trying to comply with CAFE. We ask why ? It's because we ask for more, but the regulation means it has to weigh less. Now either the wires have on them what they are supposed to or they dont, and connections are getting it there or they are not. Your dealer tech may have a known good test part to substitute at that time, you could get one from a yard pretty cheap, but that takes time out of your day so a guided testing diagnostic can also be found in the service manual. It was once like a manageable phonebook size, now it's a few books, or you use a data base. This was the smaller, lighter, EVTM's purpose. You could even order one thru parts from HELM publications.

They offer enlarged drawings and depict what fuses and maxi- fuses, and relays or controls are in that PDB box. nowadays you may need a magnifier to help see the little fuses as you test. Using a voltmeter is just as cheap and has other functions, but the test light just clips to a good ground and is reversible for the other half of the circuit in basic power and ground tests. most homeowner car manuals have pics of tools and describe what they were for in the past, showing connection and what you can get from using them. The simpler you try to make it, the better the literature, the less confusing or expensive it can be. If you start to get too far into it, get a second set of eyes on the problem. standing right there, a partner can be help if he or she can hold the connection or tell you what the book suggests. You plan your own tests based on what it has for info? Then you have made the leap. If you expect the book to think for you and do every little thing it suggests ? You would have to be at the place that made the car and proves it. at the proving grounds shop. they may ask you to substitute the part from another car, then you must improvise, not buy all the possibilities and try them, they wont let you return them. a Ford tech makes short work of these problems and is used to them. the EVTM saves him from having to map everything out for each different model, then add each year. One day he just gets (full) and then....what? The database becomes his tool for speed and understanding. The manufacturer tries to provide faster info while they underpay him in time to find it. There are websites that correlate data about year ranges. before and after build dates info can help. the build date is on the jamb for the drivers door. it also helps order the correct part over the Ford parts counter. The door can be pulled off and away during testing if you look at the hinge design, starting in like the late 80's and up. Wires that had strands breaking were redesigned with a new hinge-ing thing. you could encounter it if the basics aren't getting there to the master switch. I have only seen one that had to be dealt with, and that car had been in a collision. You should have enough to make you dangerous, by now. looking for the effected noodle in the spaghetti, or the water that causes the resistance.

Last one I had was at the church, dark and raining, I took it to a table and pried the switch apart carefully by flashlight, used a pen eraser, and some die-electric grease. We ,oddly , have money for 4 dollar coffees but not for covered parking areas and good lighting, Then a test light, voltmeter, and the shop manual. Then we just want an answer, right? The fix is where WE find it "splash" goes my latte. oops, that's going to get into the switches, dang. I will go to the library and find a schematic, maybe the rain will stop by then. picking up a cheap voltmeter and test light and a box of blue fuses since all those things disappeared out of the churches garage, hahaha

bastiges

This is junction box

Will check with my 12 volt and track it down. Thanks for taking time to try to help me. Everybody your great ,

Have book ,owners manual

Still need some help on my 2002 mercury Sable LS dohc. I shorted out the light under mirror . I watched it zap while checking dome light.that is when the power windows, dome,went out.if this helps .changed one relay and the fog lights came back,but still no power windows. Please help and thank you all for your help.having a rough time. My son was almost killed in car accident one year later and 12 surgerys 3 hours away from home .so lucky to be alive. God bless

Still need some help on my 2002 mercury Sable LS dohc. I shorted out the light under mirror . I watched it zap while checking dome light.that is when the power windows, dome,went out.if this helps .changed one relay and the fog lights came back,but still no power windows. Please help and thank you all for your help.having a rough time. My son was almost killed in car accident one year later and 12 surgerys 3 hours away from home .so lucky to be alive. God bless

I have given you about all I can about this, so what I would recommend is that you go online to ebay motors and search for Ford Factory Service Manual on CD for 2002 Mercury Sable. Do NOT use any of the one's they sell as a download as my experience with that type is that they do not work properly after downloading. I have purchased these before for a 97 Continental and a 96 Sable(which unfortunately only cover 96 to 99). It is the entire factory service manual that the service techs at the dealers use and has wiring schematics and trouble shooting procedures. If you are keeping the car for any length of time, it is an invaluable tool to have. I believe I paid in the area of 20$ for mine plus shipping & well worth it!

the relay is located on the inside fuse panel under the dash on the driver's side. On a 2005 Sable it can be found in Location #2 in the fuse panel. I don't know if this fixes your "window won't go up" issue but I'm having the same problem. I can hear and feel the relay activating when I work the switch and there are no other items listed that control the windows. All my other windows work fine except the drivers window.

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