How to solve this no heat problem?

You could have a plugged heater core. Your airflow diverter might not be moving. You can check coolant pressure when up to temp by squeezing the upper radiator hose you should feel that the hose is firm. This is about 10-14 psi which is normal. Check other settings on your heater control; does everything else seem to work? Does the airflow move from defrost to floor to vents?

Thanks for the quick reply. Plugged heater? Not sure, but when i start the car and hold the inlet and outlet of the heater they become hot almost at the same time, so i think there must be flow through the heater otherwise the outlet wouldnt get hot. I think as well when it maybe just has a small flow through the heater, i should have a little bit of warm air coming out of the fan when i turn it on low, because it generates heat, but none what so ever. What happens when the pressure is to low, is the coolant not able to make its way through the heater, or is the flow not high enough to generate enough heat while air is being directed over the heater? The upper radiator hose doesn't seem to get very firm compared to when the engine is cold. I tried to listen if i could here the airflow diverter move when i went from cold to hot and back, but couldn't here anything. Tried it whit the blower off and on low. everything seems to work.Not sure where to listen though, i listened at where the blower is, behind glove box, passenger side. Where can i find this airflow diverter/ door lever that directs the air over the heater? Hope anyone knows the answers to my questions. Cheers, Joey

I had the heater door break in my '03 Caravan. This would not allow heat to be generated in winter even though motor was warm. The control somehow snapped the plastic "flapper" that closes over the heater box to generate heat. You have to take apart the whole dash to get at it. I replaced with a whole assembly from junk yard it was easier. Good luck this took me about two days to complete.

I have a similar problem but as I am driving I will occasionally get warm air then it goes back to cold air. Any ideas on that?

RE I have a similar problem but as I am driving I will occasionally get warm air then it goes back to cold air. Any ideas on that?: You have air pockets in your cooling system (low on antifreeze). Air leaks in the cooling system can be from a water pump seal, radiator cap, head gasket, leaky hose fitting, etc.

im having a problem as well rear heat blows fine passenger side blows heat to driver side cold as ice and ideas

When your Heat is hit or miss, good then bad, I start with a simple thermostat replacement ($8). Get that out of the way! Two hoses going to the firewall.......use a garden hose! Put one end on the tap and one on the upper hose of vehicle. Turn on tap and watch crud flow out of the (also disconnected) lower hose. 2 min is a good amount of time. Do this as a repeated procedure to lower hose and watch for another 2 min while it comes ( back flushing) out the opposite hose this time. Now......, reconnect the hoses but do this in opposite from original way. Heater cores work on a deposit filtering system style where it flows usually one way. So by flushing the lines and reversing the hoses, it should fix your heating problem to make it steady heat again. If it happens again, reverse back to normal hose location. Also a guage to test your -35 or..... freeze temperature rating. Make sure there is no air in your Radiator as bubbles will definitely prevent HOT air to be supplied for heat. With cool vehicle or it not being ran forever, open the rad cap, START VEHICLE, turn ON HEAT to FULL setting, top up with coolant while it's running, squeeze the upper big hose and release lots of times. Squeeze and release X10 drawing the bubbles out of the block and circulating the coolant. Also squeeze the lower in the same fashion simultaneously X10 (Repeat!) The level will rise and fall and fluid will also overflow to the reservoir tank. When fluid starts steaming and its topped up or just coming out and overflowing the rad cap area and there are no more, or very little visual (burps), recap it and enjoy your solid heat once again. Note: make sure to avoid the fans while doing this! Unless you dont need your fingers or hands anymore. One more thing. After a drive about for 5-10 min, let vehicle cool naturally. Open rad cap slowly to avoid burns and it may burp a little more as it was ran under pressure. Hope this helps you all. Cheers. Chris H.

If your low to high DIAL is missing blower settings like 1,3, but 2 and 4 work, or none work for that matter,. Replace your (BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR). Which is usually located under the passenger glove box. By the blower motor.