My brake lights don't work, but my other rear lights do. I just changed out the brake light switch and my fuses are fine, but lights still do not work
Asked by canman322000 Jul 11, 2015 at 04:03 PM about the 1999 Ford Ranger
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
21 Answers
you might want to try and giggle the turn signal switch and tight switch while holding down the brake and have some one watch. also change both brake bulbs/inspect the filaments
canman322000 answered 9 years ago
I changed out the bulbs about 2 months ago and the tail lights are working fine. I did notice that my right turn signal flashes way faster that the left, could this have something to do with it?
replace the flasher (cheap)..check the bulbs again... then move the turn signal and light switches on / off... im guessing the brake light switch was adjusted and checked for power in and out....
canman322000 answered 9 years ago
Is it a switch for the flasher? If so where is it? Changing out the brake light switch was a major pain in the ass due to its location. I hope the flasher is easier. Should I also check the wiring coming into the brake light assembly in the back where the bulb is?
yes check power (test light) in/to the brake bulb socket...for the flasher, turn it on and listen for it.. before you do that hold the brake down and giggle firmly the turn sig, switch and light switch..to see if you get anything bake there..
canman322000 answered 9 years ago
Ok I will try these things, thank you
Check the wires under the bed. Had sim prob with tails not working. It was a burned out fuseable link plug mold. On the driver side up in the frame, pull down the black wire jacket tubing and pull the wires out.
Chrisbefried answered 9 years ago
Can be the turn signal switch. There is a recall on a lot of years so the dealer must replace it for free if you are one of the years. The switch is a pain to get to see, but you can do it under 5 minutes, and they are under $20.00.
Chrisbefried answered 9 years ago
The 5 minutes and unbder 20 is the brake light switch not the turn signal FYI
canman....it all floooows thru the turn signal switch... but do check them other wires...all other replies are also good.vvps. i made a boo-boo about the flasher ..mixed it up with another reply...but for $3.00 why not...did you find the problem.....im here for you...
Most likely the flasher. However I just put a heavy duty flasher in to accommodate pulling a utility trailer. All working but now I notice I have to push brake pedal very hard to get brake lights.....pedal switch guys?
I was having the same problem but now I can't get my truck to go in gear and I can't get the pit to go in to hold the brake switch on to the pedal and I don't even know if my brake lights work. Main problem is how to fix it so I can go in gear.
Hi my running light dose not work new bugs
2000 Ranger XLT 4.0L SOHC 4X4: Everything on my tail lights worked except the stop lamps when pressing the brake pedal. When pressing the brake pedal the Outside Cargo stop lamp would only turn on; nothing at the tail lamps. I first checked Fuse 9; It was good. I disconnected the five pin plug from Brake Pedal Position Switch (BPP) which is located on the brake pedal up in the dash for testing. Using a multi meter set for checking DCV I tested pin 1 (Ground) and pin 3 (power from Fuse 9). I got a reading of ~12VDC. This indicated that power was being supplied to the BPP. To troubleshoot the BPP I bypassed it using a jumper wire from pin 2 (Multi-Function Switch Power Wire) to pin 3 (power from Fuse 9). The brakes lights did NOT turn on; My BPP wasn't faulty. If you brakes turn on this indicates your BPP if faulty. Next thing I checked out was the Multi-Function Switch which is located on the steering column. The level for the blinker is attached to it. You need to remove some panels to get to the wiring connections. I found the light green wire (Comes from Pin 2 of the BPP plug) loose and not fully inserted into the connector. I pushed it back in with a pair of needle noose pliers and it fixed the problem.
Bigblackwinston answered 6 years ago
I have a 94 Ford ranger xlt. My brake lights quite working, my fuse is good. Haven't checked the bulbs yet but reasonably sure that they didn't burn out at the same time. Does this truck have a relay anywhere
There's a black box underneath the steering collum that's about 6 inch's long about 2 inch's wide open that up and what I did is turned the key on turned on my hazards and hit my blinker and I followed the buzzing noise it's the biggest relay in the box replace that and you have brake lights and turn signals I had to do that on my 2002 Ford ranger edge just now and it worked
I just had the same problem with my 2006 Ford Ranger. I messed with it for about 3 hours for 3 days trying to figure out what was wrong with it. So I went to the back of the truck where the wiring harnesses plug together and found out that the plug was barely connected and not pushed all the way in and now everything works fine. Hope that's your problem I hope that's a lot of people's problem just the wiring harness not connected all the way good luck
This here saves my bacon man. Thank you for your post. Just got pulled over the same day I got the truck back from the shop for not having any brake lights. Started checking light bulbs, fuses, all that good stuff. Until I read this post and it dawned on me that my bed was removed and I had to bolt it down. So perhaps I’ll try to find a loose connection... come to find the harness was completely disconnected. Glad it was that simple.
Pizzaman1927 answered 4 years ago
I have 96 Mazda b2300 taillights not working Front parking lights not working as well but blinkers work one of Parking light Socket is burnt could that be the problem checked all my wires everything’s good place all the bulbs
TRAILER WIRING HARNESS PLUG N PLAY WAS THE REASON I HAD NO BRAKE LIGHTS I have a 1998 ford ranger my brake lights wasn’t working however the third brake and my running lights was also working I check my fuses (#3/7) they was good so next I replaced both bulbs for brake lights still didn’t work but the running were.So next I replace my Brake Light Switch Part No. S37027 it’s location under the steering column still had the same problem.So I when under the rear of the truck and realized that I had a tow wiring harness for trailer I unhook and connected the factory wires back and Now I got brake lights
KarmaHunter answered 4 years ago
This is my own experience and was able to fix my lights. Just reviving an old post perhaps to help someone in the same situation. My brake lights were very dim or not working with headlights on or turn signal on or any combination you can come up with. First thing I check after the usual (light bulbs, fuses) was the voltage from inside (fuse box) to the harness next to the brake pump under the hood (see pic 1). Undid it and tested voltage (mine was a one man show so I used the hazard lights since my '89 Ranger are the same for brake/turn signal). Pic 2 shows which one are flashers (pink/blk and green). Also tested parking lights (brown cable) since they weren't working either. They all tested 12 volts, so we are good so far. Moved on to the back of the truck, tested brake/parking/turn signal bulb socket and was getting about 5 volts!!! The same cable colors goes all the way to the back so I saw the pink/black (left side), the green (right side) and the brown (parking lights are the same color both sides), but also a black one (-). Tested positive (+) inside socket with ground (-) from metal and got 12 volts!!! Tested positive and ground from inside the socket and got 5 volts. So ground was my problem. For fun, got a jumper (-) from metal to the black cable (I spliced it) and yes, you guessed it, I GOT ALL MY LIGHTS WORKING. Next step was to trace ground. Got under the bed and guess what I found... a trailer wiring harness. My old Ranger has a hitch but never saw the harness actually (I thought some previous owner removed it or whatnot). It was the plug and play type (remove the lights connector, put the P&P trailer harness and reconnect). Well, pic 3 shows what was the problem after removing it and reconnected back the original connector. Hope this helps. At least my testing voltage method is sound and may help troubleshoot your particular problem.