I have 2011 Malibu. The Service ESC, engine power reduced, and service traction lights are all on. Car starts jerking and bogging out. I have it in the shop 4 times in past 3 weeks. Any thoughts?

Was that the GM garage ? Your service codes can be read by a code reader anywhere to get the codes, google them, and find out what tests to run, or the condition the computer is implementing as a result. Ask your parts store if they have a code reader. write down what the codes are. read about each one, but you want to know why it is jerking or bucking. Fuel pressure ? Sensor malfunction? EGR valve ? Who knows? And what were the tests and results of your last 4 times you mentioned ? A car's computer may default to a runable strategy but act up and use a predetermined plan. The sensors may be out of range or giving data outside parameters. The predetermined plan lets you get it to the GM garage and get help to make it run right, then the computer can return to responding to your actual data.

When the mechanic read the codes they said it was the throttle position Sensor. So they cleaned it a yr ago. Car worked fine until 3 weeks ago. I took it in once again the code read the same thing. They cleaned it again. A week later it started again. So they thought it was the battery. They changed it. I didn't even leave their parking lot before it messed up again. So then they changed the throttle body thing. And i get in the car drive home and it did it again. I have put a few hundred dollars into fixing the problem, and now it has to go back into the shop.

You must seek help from the GM garage. Your shop is cleaning your throttle body, replacing it, and replacing your sensor that measures throttle opening, but they are not addressing your symptoms as well as your code, they are not completing the work. They have repeats of the condition and a recurring light. once the light has been on, the computer can put itself in a self management plan, or predictive mode. It stays in that mode. it returns to that mode. Their work should include the pinpoint tests, inspections, repair, clearing, and complete drive cycle, if the code recurs, they cannot resolve it ? they are to contact GM or the emissions authority to see if they are missing info about your calibration. I do not know, and am truly going from experience but only Mr. Goodwrench can help. Give him a chance to remove aftermarket parts or complete the work and implement GM updates or processor correction. Also, address the other symptoms. Some computers can also miss symptoms that indicate an issue and there may not be a code for what your tech at the dealership would know must be the case. Arrange a rental car, bring your receipts, give them research time or hotline time or whatever they need. That can simplify when the pressure is off but they understand the importance to the customer. Providing them a narrative letter helps the info get communicated, and they can refer to all the symptoms.

Continuing to drive a car with multiple symptoms could end up damaging the catalyst or rendering it ineffective, because of its cost, it is best if you seek their help soon and not wait. You do not want someone to keep slapping bandaids on this one in my humble opinion.

Thank you

Mine is doing the same thing ... did you ever find problem?

does your vehicle have multiple problems? have you had an inspection for obvious causes, codes read ? What were they? read the first answer on this page please mr. goodwrench or the emissions certified shop they can recommend can get you all the help. doing your basic needs only can be checked by any shop.

Then read the third post. doing part of the work, but not the complete needs being met, can put you back at the first step. Too many people's ideas, without a complete solution, is obvious here. a real driveability tech may find a concern with the work that was done, or the completion of each step.

My 2011 Chevy Malibu has these three exact messages. I have an appointment with the dealership Friday. When I brought the cast on originally, after looking for about hour, they said I had a water leak which read doing onto the electronic accelerator causing it too temporarily short. Estimate $300 - $1500 to tear apart the dash and find and fix the leak.

I have a 2010 Malibu... it has been doing this for over 2 years now. Funny thing is; it only does it during the winter months. December through Feb. it does the same thing, same codes, same check engine light. I deal with it until it causes a permanent problem, GM service department is lost and they are only part changers, not full mechanics that really troubleshoot. If they cant read it on a screen or code, they have no clue.

So. . . I got an answer which isn't probably the root cause. The inner seal on my driver's door has been crimped which is allowing water to drip onto the electronic accelerator (how I miss the day of mechanical linkage). The dealership ordered the part a week and a half ago and was supposed to call me when it comes in ($175). In addition, I've tried to get recall parts installed on my car twice; the first time they said they didn't get the parts even though someone called me and told me they did. They second time, they said one 1 of the 2 parts were shipped to them; and it was broken! I seriously doubt I'll ever buy a Chevy again! (I miss my 1976 Chevy Impala)

Hi I have a 2011 Chevy Malibu I was driving home and the engine light came on and this came across the dashboard Eng Pwr Reduced can you tell me what that means

For me, the electronic accelerator had a connection ( I believe in or near the firewall) which had been soaked with water by the leak I described above. The dealership took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together and put a silicone sealant/gel around it to protect it from moisture until my new door seal comes in (which I'm still waiting on). I haven't had that engine light message, or a loss of power since (so far).

i have a 2011 chevy Malibu and i havnt had any promblems until now the ESC service light came on i called the dealer and they told me its going to be 99.00 dollars to look at it im praying that its not going to be a high price when they tell me whats wrong with the vehicle .......Answers please?????

Update on my post: It cost around $200 total to replace the crimped door seal and have the dealership take the electronic accelerator apart, clean it, put it back together and put a silicone sealant/gel around it to protect it from moisture. I've had the light come on once since then, but I turned the car off and restarted it and it did not come back on. So I'm three months without a problem. :)

What dos service ESC means

My car just got the same issue today.

What can I do to fix it?

Since my post of 5 months ago, I've experienced the sluggishness of acceleration, but have not had the ESC warning come back. This leads me to believe if your dealership should be able to take the electronic accelerator connection apart, clean it and reseal it - if your root cause is moisture like mine.

I have just experienced the same issues described above with my 2011 chevy Malibu. This seems to be a common problem. I cannot continue to put money into this car. Has anyone heard of any recalls pertaining to these issues?

It's not the seal it's the drain tube for the sun roof they get clogged in some cases.they become disconnected and all that water goes into the headliner and drains right down into the drivers side and all the electrical connections. The fix is quite simple and can be done with simple hand tools. Pull up the carpet so it won't mildew Some times you have to remove the a pillar plastic trim, remove sunshade sometimes you just have to remove the screws, and let it hang on the headliner, remove the center holder for sunshade pull down headliner gently you will see the tan tube laying beside the drain, I recommend using a piece shrink tubing slip it over the tube and reconnect the tube to the drain slide up the shrink tubing and use a blower dryer and heat it up until it shrinks down tight be care full not to burn anything. Next on the left side of the dash next to the door panel there is a triangle shaped plastic cover that snaps in remove it and you will see the main harness connector It's gray and has I think 24 wires disconnect it and use compressed air to blow the water out of the connector and all the wires you can reach. I install a house fan inside and the interior drys out usually in a day or two. When you put all the connectors back together use dielectric grease and clean any corrosion.

The ESC (electronic stability control)/ Service Traction alert for warning-check engine light is for a for a series of the 2000's Chevy Malibu models. The recall code for it is 13036. You can go to my.GM.com/recalls, put your VIN number in & check if you have an open recall unnserviced. Mine has been serviced and it's doing it again. Check your state lemon law guidelines to see if you have standing for over 4 services (at dealer, maybe not your local mechanic).

Does your car idle really bad when you're at the traffic light ??? Can you feel it shaking ??? Of it does .........the problem is not the fuse box , not a water leak , not the injector or coil pack , not the solenoid , etc etc .... The dealers are full of #$!@..... They don't want to do the JOB !! which is replacing the whole head since one of the valves is burnt ....this problem engaged all those messages on the panel and of course the check engine.....that will solved the issue for once . Tell them to test the pressure in your valves .

Same ESC issue going on year 3. They replace some part under the gas/ brake peddle. Started again after one month. So 2 more diagnostics resulted in nothing. ESC light come on in warm weather. So winter past and ESC light is coming on again. Even weirder, supper hot in Ohio and no ESC light but my seat belt warning comes on even though its buckled. Well we are back in the high 70s/low 80s. Got the ESC light. this is ridiculous. Of course they want me to pay for an in depth diagnostic but with no guarantee they can find the problem. I am still tying to find a solution as of today Jun 20, 2017. Good luck to everyone.

I am having the same issues. 2011 LTZ only 60k. Took to dealer told me dirty valves. Had work done with oil change $189. 2 weeks later seem worse. As a GM stockholder i want to drive it right to Detroit and drop it off. GM knows the issue and will not recall.

Hi everyone who is joined in frustration! :) As of this month, Sept 2017, I have not had the ESC warning light come back; however, the sluggishness / surging during acceleration when between 20 - 35 mph or 2000 - 3000 RPM continues and is getting progressively worse. There are a couple of things I need to do with the car, such as replace the serpentine belt. I will also, probably, have my injectors cleaned. After all that, we'll see. Good luck!

Hey everyone. We own two Malibus, 2012 and a 2013. This morning my son was on his way to school, and the 2012 went crazy (service ESC, reduce engine power, service traction, etc.) just like you guys. I had replaced the AC compressor, condenser/drier and expansion valve and screen just two weeks prior to having this problem. Considering the fact I don't believe in coincidences, I checked the wiring harness around master cylinder and the coolant bottle to see if I had jostled something. I discovered the crappy battery connection from the factory on the negative side was loose. I had tightened it properly, but it was still loose. The car acted crazy again when I drove it, but after disconnecting the negative for a minute, it would run normal for a while, eventually, though, it would go back to its old tricks. Frustrated with the garbage they called a battery terminal, I cut it off and replaced with a brass aftermarket. This seems to have cured it. I'd suggest to everyone to check their battery terminals and see if they are coming loose or not. A bad ground connection would definitely foul up a computer. I hope this helps.

Help, I own a 2010 Chevrolet Malibu that CONTINUES TO BREAK DOWN... My Car has extreme sluggish acceleration and hestites at Idle? The weird thing is all the warning Lights Flash at Times and it always sends A Po420 Code? I installed an ENTIRE new exhaust that did not fix the issue???? This car is a hunk oF Crap. That crazy thing is I work for An accredited Repair shop as a Service Manager and still can't Fix this Car? My Techs have told me There done trying to Find the "ghost" problem.. PLEASE HELP DIRECT ME TO THE SOLUTION??

If any of you are still having this problem, I had the same issues on my '09 Malibu. The problem turned out to be a bad throttle body, which I got the dealership to cover under warranty. There is a service bulletin out about it, and if you are under 120,000 miles, you may be able to get it replaced for free under a warranty exception.

I've also had the same issue for about a month. It's been at the mechanic and they don't know what's wrong with it. I got the message "engine power reduced. Oil pressure low shut engine off". Mechanic has tried to fix the problem. First time they fixed an oil leak which worked for about 3days before the car started doing it again. Second time I had it towed they said it worked fine, I picked it up from the shop and stalled out witu my children in the car, in the middle of the road, during rush hour. Then had to wait 5hours for AAA to come tow back to the mechanic. I am at my witsend. It's a 2009 Chevy Impala with 152,000miles. I just called for an update today and they still can't find the problem. I don't know what to do anymore

I'm having these issues now an dealership nor does Chevrolet want to fix it. They need to recall it.

UPDATE SEPT 2017: year ago the dealership replaced the brake pedal sensor and that worked for about a month. Problem returning and many headaches (see earlier post). I finally got the dealership to look at it for a cheaper price. Service rep told me I needed a new BRAKE PEDAL SENSOR. In which, I promptly pulled out the previous work invoice and they had to replace it for free because it was with in the one year. Crazy. Thank goodness I had that paperwork in hand. And why did they not do that earlier? Sometimes the new part is defective or the person installing is not knowledgable. Hope this is it.

OhioNT- Have you looked hard at the battery cables? The negative cable's clamp on my 2012 wouldn't tighten up completely. Once I replaced it, no more issues. Also, I'd check the throttle-body assembly. There was a recall on several of the 2008 to 2012 models. I hope this helps.

If you have a wet floor on the drivers side then you have a plugged or disconnected sun roof drain hose. this allows water to enter the main wiring harness connector (large tan colored with multiple wires, this causes corrosion. you can access this connector on the drivers side dash panel remove ans clean use dielectric grease. You then must lower the headliner and repair and clean out the drain hose. On mine the hose was 3'' away from the fitting on the sun roof, I used a piece of shrink tubing that fit over the hose and slipped it back on and used a BBQ lighter to shrink the tubing locking the drain hose back on. BUT THE KEY IS A WET FLOOR

Mine started last week on a 2011 malibu. No sun roof, 42k miles. My first code read I got P2135. My coworker experienced this on her equinox last year too, same code and it was the pedal assembly. Erased the code, good for a day and now engine reduced power came back. Pedal came back one and now it said it couldn't read the throttle body. Switched that but now the idle doesn't want to adjust. I have driven it 75 miles seeing if it would just relearn itself but the lights are still on. It hesitates for like half a second at 5mph, I can go as fast as I want except if I try to accelerate too fast in an instant, my accelerator pad stops working. Thoughts?

I am having the same issues with my 2011 malibu 2.4L (service esc, traction control, and reduced engine power). I brought it in to the dealership the other day and brought the paperwork regarding the recall but because my car did not have the correct VIN they refused to do anything... I basically stalled out 10 times on my home from work yesterday. I cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner and hope this helps. I am thinking I will need to replace the throttle body but from the looks of these other posts that might not even be the issue. It's ridiculous that certain malibu's are covered under the warranty to have the faulty throttle body replaced but mine can't be because of the VIN. Big problem on GM's part. The warranty states if under 120,000 miles or 10 years, I have 94,000. They should fix this. Thoughts? Check out the warrenty for special coverage adjustment: https://testing- public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/109438/4281792

I will say it again it's corrosion in the 24 wire connector, I went through the whole thing that every one has mentioned. Replaced the pedal sensor, wheel sensor but it came back in a short time. This is not a hard fix, pull of the panel on the left end of the dash look for a tan or gray connector w/ 24wires the main harness, pedal sensor and most sensors go through this connector. Separate the connector I used an old tooth brush and a blow dryer to clean the terminals coated with dielectric grease reinstalled clear the code. I had alr4qady replace the pedal with a new one which I removed and replace with the old one, over a year still working. My connector still had moisture in it and it hadn't rained in over a week. This is a problem with all GM vehicles that have a sunroof. IF this is indeed your problem then you have to repair the sun roof drain, which is also a problem on the same vehicles see above posts or search the internet.

My son has a 2011 Malibu with all the same warning lights, reduced power, etc. Today is the third time since November. They replaced the throttle assembly ( under gas pedal) and it fried in less than a month while he was traveling from Chicago to WV. Different auto shop said that the first one was not OEM so replaced with manufacture part. Now he is stuck at work on a Sunday with the same thing. No sunroof ( went through THAT with his old car) so no leak at gasket. Truly a crappy car. I told him to have the car towed to a GM dealer this time. All the same symptoms. When can it be declared a lemon? He bought the car in WV and just moved to Chicago.

So to fix my issue, took it to a shop, explained that i switched out the pedal, throttle and checked the wires. Tried new computer except it would not work in reverse. We put in all my old part and reprogrammed my old ecu and it cleared everything. Almost 2 months and not a single issue again. Just afraid about next winter...

Have them check your throttle body. The same thing happened to ours! But our throttle body went.

I have a 2011 malibu and I changed the throttle body and fuel injectors coil ect..finally I call the chevy Corp. They told me to take it into a be alert to get diagnosed. I told her I I did that that's how I spent so much Money. They are covering something up with this car we all need to get together an star a class action lawsuit site against CHEVROLET. Anyone knows a good Lawyer.

I have a 2011 Malibu and just had the starter rep;aced. Now it seems to be going nuts. Sometimes when taking off from a stop the electrical system goes wild... power locks go off and on and the engine revs. Can someone help lead me in the right direction?

GuruW68KF...when my locks started doing the same thing (no engine revs) it ended up being my key fob. The locks would lock-unlock, even if I was in the house and my car was in the detached garage. It ended up draining the battery. So I just stopped using the fob. Kind of a pain.

Same problem!!!!!! So frustrated!!!!! I replaced the exhaust manifold, throttle body, relay, the Chevy dealership still cannot diagnosis my car. I will drive it and turn the AC on, about 5 minutes later the reduce engine comes on the engine starts shaking and i can only go about 10 mph, i do not have any clue on what to do??

I will say this, I hate this Malibu 2010 I have. The electrical is crap. The traction comes on, the radio glitches, I keep having to replace headlights every 6 months (which if you know takes more than just a simple pull of the light, its taking off the whole front bumper), the airbag thing comes on and off...... Worst car I have ever owned!!! I'm disappointed with Chevrolet!!! I can't even let my teenage son use it to take his drivers test because of the stupid recurring issues!!!!!

Same thing is happening with my 2015 Chevy Malibu it started spsputtering while on a stop light then it would shut off then it started jerking. While driving it would rev the rpm I tried to check for codes nothing shows up it once said it was the O2 sensors I got the throttle body cleaned it was good for a few days now yesterday it started again I don’t know what to do

Every time I see one of those Chevy commercials saying they have the JD Power Dependability award... I want to throw a shoe at the TV.

this is absolutely crazy that this many people have has the same issue, put so much money into it, and still its not fixed! i came out this morning to start my car and the service esc, traction and reduced engine speed all on. my car wont go over 40mph. its an 09 so warranty only covers trans and engine 70k millage and ive had it for less then a year. i refuse to throw money in the trash for this faulty car. if the dealer will not fix the problem PERMANENTLY at a reasonable price im going to see what i can find out about a lawsuit

tiff410 -I would be on board if you got some sort of lawsuit going. Your right if you spent $$ to fix it thats one thing. I don't have $$ to throw at guess work. The dealership act like I am the only one that has ever had this problem. I have complained to customer care and who ever would listen....and [sound of crickets!]

Well after days of stalling and shutting off while driving and idle going crazy I decided to take it to the dealership they dignosed it 175 dollars and they said it was the ecm that has to be replaced and redo the grounds I told them I replaced the crank shaft sensor I cleaned the throttle body and I cleaned the O2 sensor and they told me it's the whole computer system in the car they are charging me 1300 dolalrs to replace it and redo the grounds on the car I don't have that type of money and my car is acting worse now it hesitant to turn on I'd ont know what to do

I've told people this a million times before. Our electrical problems/glitches have disappeared since I replaced the BATTERY CABLES, specifically the negative. If your car has a bad ground, the computer will go INSANE. Headlight issues: if you buy the high output bulbs, they go out faster. If they go out too quickly, take the alternator off and have the diodes tested. A bad diode-trio will fry headlights.

2011 malibu had the throttle body replaced 800.00 today they did fuel injectors 900.00 I made it a half a mile down the street from dealer and service esc service traction esc off traction off engine light on and car was hesitating bad no power. Returned to dealer with all lights on and they couldn't find a code or knew what problem was. I'm pretty pissed off about it.

I have a 2010 Malibu (bought used) and was having all of these problems. I bought a tarp to put over the sun roof when the car was parked and there was a threat of rain. After it was on there about 24 hours, EVERY SINGLE SYMPTOM went away. All of them. Tarp cost me less than 10 bucks. So I ordered a Master Magnetics Flexible Sheet online and I'll use that instead of a tarp. If you don't have a sunroof and you're still having these problems, I can't help you and wish you the best of luck.

2011 Malibu and I have same problems with service ESC/TRACTION CONTROL. It was a recall August 2014. GM recall number 13036. I still have the papers mailed to me. Well, here we go again. Same thing happening now. It's in a Chevy garage right now. Apparently they think that my Bluetooth won't work cause onstar connector wasn't working, and my key ring stopped working unlocking/ locking, starting engine ahead cause of the ESC lights, oh and engine light is now on I SAY LAWSUIT, I'M IN !!!!!! I only have 57,000 ish miles on my car

guruTJTWB - my key fob did the same lock/unlock. I stopped using it when it drained my battery overnight in my detached garage.

same problem with my 2011. service esc/ traction control, ect. Code read misfire in cylinder 1, hoped it was just a sticky valve so ran CRC once and seafoam twice, did compression test and it was at 60psi on cyl. 1 and 150psi on cyl.2, So went further and pulled the valve cover to inspect the cams ans valve springs, then got cyl. 1 to TDC and used an air compressor to see if there was air leaking out of the intake or exhaust......Burnt exhaust valve ! which will cause the low compression , which causes misfire and kicks on the esc/traction control lights......GM---YOU SUCK AND NEVER SHOULD HAVE BEEN BAILED OUT A DECADE AGO BY OUR TAXPAYERS MONEY

My 2010 started this same problem a couple days ago. First time I was driving and got a blow out. While waiting for someone to bring me a jack I left the car running. Replaced the tire and tried to leave when the car had a check engine light with a engine derate displayed on the dash. Plugged in a computer deleted the codes, opened the fuse box panel under the hood checked fuses and relays. Pulled the 2 fuses that said IGN, waited a couple minutes and put them back in. Started the car and ran fine for a couple days. Last night I went to the store came back to the office left the car running while I collected my stuff to go home. Got in the car and couldn't leave, engine derate once again. Left the car at work. Started it today everything is back to normal. So I am pretty sure it is a heat and relay issue. Last night the engine compartment was really hot but I had left it running and it is summer so I didn't think about it at first. Both times I remember the engine compartment being pretty hot, the fuses and relays were hot. I am going to remove all the fuses and clean the fuse box with electrical cleaning spray and replace all the smaller relays with new ones and see what happens.

Been having this problem but only service esc and i forget exactly what it says but something with the power steering. When driving i gave noticed it does lose power but not very much. Also when turn right and not every time but it does happen daily it jurks but i only feel it in the front right wheel. Might want to check the FRONT WHEEL BARRING SENSOR. Just ask. Don't hurt to

wow and I thought I was the only one. My 2011 started with a shutter ESC light check engine then would go out. First time dealer checked all ok and returned to me, week later the same thing this time said it was a burnt valve #2 misfire pulled head three weeks later I get my care back runs fine for about six months late night driving home on freeway it all happens again. Different dealer this time and they find a cracked head two weeks in shop and I get the car back on the way home getting on freeway in heavy traffic and it feels like the car is coming apart I pull to the side and it dies take back to dealer and they find a broken valve spring. All runs fine for the last 18 months two weeks ago I get a check engine light turn off then back on all ok so I think its a fluke this morning the same thing off then on all ok then this morning on the way to work I get a ESC ABS and check engine light with poor performance and think to myself how close is the Dodge dealer its time for a change!!!!!

Open passenger door, open the panel that leads to beneath the radio, there’ll be two connectors with blue covers. Unplug both with the car off, wipe them clean and apply dielectric grease to each connector (not the pins themselves). Plug them back in and you should be good to go. Dielectric spark plug/connector grease is available for about $1.50 at the counter of nearly every part store.

I just had my car in yesterday. They replaced the throttle body. Today its doing same thing. Maintenance ECS system comes on the check engine and track control light. Causes it to sputter when stopped and when in park. What is the issue

All 2011 Chevy Malibu’s have very weak and soft wiring that leads to the TPS so after cleaning and definitely after replacing that sensor change those wiring harnesses and your problems will be resolved

Have an 09 Malibu with this problem, I checked the sunroof drain and it was secure and not leaking water, however my door weather strip is leaking water but it does not make it ways down next to the wire connection. I checked my codes and I had the ESC and traction control codes and a Cyl 5 misfire, is that caused by the electric accelerator or should I just take it into the shop, I really only want to drive it once if its having this problem.

I have a 2014 Malibu (no sun roof) with a similar problem. Going to work yesterday morning, about 10 degrees out, the check engine light was on and the display read "Engine power reduced". The engine was running smoothly and accelerated properly to exactly 3500 rpm, but then wouldn't go any faster, shifted slowly into second gear, then repeated the process all the way up to traffic speed. After work, about 20 degrees out, the check engine light was off, there was nothing on the display, and the car ran perfectly. So I think we are looking at some transient sensor malfunction (condensation? loose connection?) that fools the onboard computer into limiting the max RPM. Should mention that we've had a very cold Winter here in MI, with temps down to -10 multiple times, without any problems with the car, so it isn't a strictly temp based fault.

So did u get your car fixed mine is doing the same thing

Mine turned out to be a damaged negative cable from my battery that was rubbing against the heat shield causing it to short when it rubbed against metal.

Having the same issue, with a 2011 Chevrolet Malibu 150,000 miles. already took it to a mechanic twice first time the car did not do this in the presence of the mechanic the second time around they decided it was either the coils or the spark plugs. we went with the cheaper of the two spark plugs @ $125 for parts and labor and two weeks later it is doing it again only worse with all the same errors as mentioned above (Reduced Engine Power) (Service ESC) Etc.. after having read all this I am going to first swap out the battery terminals and see how that goes if this does not fix the issue I will take back to the mechanic and ask them to change the coils if that does not fix the issue I am trading it in for a Dodge ( honestly at this point I'd take a scooter over this piece of junk) its very nice and fancy but awful at dependability.

I have a 2010 Malibu and first the check engine light was on for code P0172 mass air flow sensor and I replaced it. Took 500 miles before light went out. I have to pass emissions so it matters. Car was fine for several months. I finally had to replace original battery. About 8 months later the ESC Service light, etc. CRAP started. I have yet to take it in to shop. I read right away there were several different sensors it could be and it was an error. I have a hard time paying to fix something that really isnt broken. The second occurance prevented the car from running. I almost broke down and had it towed because my cheap a__ code reader wouldn't clear the code. Well i decided to go old school and disconnected the ground on the battery which cleared the code and let me drive on down the road. That was a few weeks ago. I have been waiting and researching because I know auto shop will do as everyone here has experienced. Thank God I found this page. I am going to have to agree with @TheBugMan and say its the ground cable on the battery. I just have a hunch based on the way my car has acted while I have been stopping on side of road with a handy wrench doing a 2.5 minute jump out, pull ground, reattach and jump back in car to go zoom zoom. If i pay attention I can catch it ahead of time and play with the gas pedal to stop it from dying. I will keep you posted if the new ground connection works for me, too. I cant believe you all haven't tried it since he posted it over a year ago. Other than that, I'm all in on the lawsuit. I am in a big city, if someone wants the name of a firm. ??? This is crazy, I have read and heard more than I can believe in recent weeks on this chevy issue. Pray for us all.

$6.74 THATS WHAT IT COSTS TO FIX THIS. THE COST OF A NEW BRASS NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.... over a year ago someone posted this. I am the 3rd person to vouch that it fixed the issue. Just wanted to let everyone know it did work and there was no way I could have known that was the problem, I just read this blog and went with my gut instinct and...I am a 55 year old girl that took a couple auto mechanics classes back in high school. I knew they would pay off and I was right many times over... (she says while laughing all the way to the bank). We had some cool teachers back in those days, they really taught stuff.Thanks to @TheBugMan too!

At this point all I can say is I'm very disappointed with this car. I have a 2011 LTZ with just 110K miles and the number of issues I've had over the years has been a real shame. The feature list was great but the execution is nowhere near the long term quality I had with my previous Camry. It may be a trend in the industry but having to take the entire nose off the car just to replace a headlight (which has gone out three times now) is just an engineering abomination. I'll be hard pressed to buy another GM in my lifetime...

I have a 2010 and repeatedly have issues. It has been to the dealer as it completely lost power in rush hour. Car dash said Service ABS, power, saver mode, traction control, service ESC and then died. I took to shop and they replaced the PCM is what they told me. Car has since had lose of power, sluggish, dies periodically, and now almost 3 years after thousand dollar repair not to mention the air bag light that is on that they are telling me will cost at least 1000 dollars as well to repair as my car is out of warranty and that it is a saftey concern. My car died again while coming through a intersection and the P0341 has come up and been replace3d four times since february 2019. This car is a danger and I am forced to drive it when it runs as I have so much money invested I cant afford a new one. I have also replaced the throttle body and just about every sensor under the hood including spark plugs and battery and car is still acting up. Why are they not helping us. Someone is going to get killed. It stalls suddenly and with little to no warning. I am terrified to transport my kids in this car. Please help us…

I am having the same problem with my 2013 Chevy Malibu, 2.4L ecotec engine. The car hesitates, idles roughly, and may stall. The code given is P0106, however replacing the MAP sensor and intake manifold gaskets did not fix the problem. No vacuum leaks have been detected. The problem is intermittent and I noticed it occurs more frequently when the AC is on. I read somewhere that chevy issued a TSB for 04 and 05 Malibu where the electric radiator fan would cause an electrical surge and cause an error in the reading of the crankshaft position sensor. Their solution was to connect a diode to the wiring harness of the fan in order to prevent the electrical fluctuation from affecting the Crankshaft position sensor (https://workshop-manuals.com/chevrolet/malibu/l4- 2.2l_vin_f/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/cooling_system/radiator_cooling_fan/radiator_cool ing_fan_motor/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/all_technical_service_b ulletins_for_radiator_cooling_fan_motor/04-06-03- 010a/oct/04/electrical_engine_hesitation/stalling/rpm_drop/) I wonder if the problem seen in 2013 Malibu might be due to an electrical surge that causes the MAP sensor's voltage to fluctuate without affecting the MAF, TPS, EGR, or any other ignition component which causes the control module to think that the MAP sensor is going bad and throws a MAP sensor code (P0106)?

I am currently having the same problems, wiring harness, battery terminal cables, coil packs, plus #4 fuel injector, plugs, full tune up, oil change, lights, etc. have all been changed. I'm all for a lawsuit. Signed 2010 Chevy Malibu

This is a direct injection engine. Clean the carbon buildup on your intake valves and see if that takes care of the problem. Let me know what happens.

I have an 09 with the same issue. Apply dielectric grease to the c2 and c2 connectors and see if it changes. Problem solved for me

C2 and c3 connectors. sorry

I’ve had this problem as well. Twice within the last year. First time was a rodent chewing the wiring harness and that was replaced by GM and fixed it for a while. But this morning the wife had to have it towed to the shop. Low power mode and it started bogging down and wouldn’t drive correctly. They of course found nothing and said it ran fine for them. I’m thinking about trying the battery terminal install.. worth a shot for just a few bucks! Taking it to the dealer has cost us around $3,000 already.. that’s more than this car is worth.

I finally solved the problem - I traded it in and got a new (used) Toyota. My first non GM car ever.

Everyone of you. Two steps from old school trouble shooting fixed mine. Mass air flow sensor. Or take the oxygen sensor out that’s right behind the engine and see if it doesn’t run great. It will be loud but driveable. If this helps take it to you exhaust shop and have the converters removed or replaced.

chevy malibus are junk chevy knew of several defects with them yet still sold them and wont do nothing about it they are known for trannys going out do to a cheap flex plate they call it and also for reducdd power they are junk have had many cars in my life and the chevy malibu i purchased new is the worst car i ever owned