2012 Mazda 3 wont start unless jumped?

Mazda has a fuse on the terminal to the battery that regulates voltage output.

Also make sure the battery connections are clean and tight at the battery. It is possible that that is where the problem is.

Do you know anything about the fuse that is on the battery terminal? It's yellow but looks burnt. . .it looks like it goes to the positive side... what is this and can it be the problem? The auto center replaced the battery again tonight with a new one. Checked the terminal and they are tight as well as the belts ....all looks good... but out of nowhere the car just no cranks... jump it.. all problems go away. I don't know if this is just my imagination, but it all began when my fiancé and I took a road trip to Lake George, NY... see,...we're from Queens and it's about a 270 mile trip one way ...540 rt.. I noticed that too me the car didn't seem like it had the hp it use too, but in thought it was just me. I had a issue with a vehicle I uses at work that the coil pack went bad... I know I sound ignorant but I know very little about M3's hence why I'm here... Can a spark plug issue cause this... someone had this problem befor me I'm sure...

For the hell of it... I just went outside to try it... Started right up...? But do I drive to work and risk getting stuck there with nobody to jump me...should I order a new terminal fuse? Everyone at tge dealer just says ,... oh just bring it in ..no one is honest there ... they won't tell.me it hey ever heard of this issue. $60 just to have them look..just bought a new battery and got an oil change. .. $260.00. WTH?... The auto center said the car ONLY calls for synthetic ... PS first oil change. ...just bought the car in May/ 16

Sounds to me like there is a problem at that fuse you are talking about. I would address that. Without being there a intermittent problem like this is hard to put a finger on. So when it does not turn over, is it just dead? Dragging starter noise or click? Jumping the vehicle seems to give it the extra boost to get it going, which is telling me something is causing resistance, like possibly that fuse, I'm thinking you may have to have the starter checked also. But in actuality the starter should be fine, I'm leaning more toward the starter relay or a worn (chaffed) cable, or bad cable connection. One other thing to check when this happens is the ignition switch, by using a digital multi-meter to see if power is getting to the starter.

Here are the following diagnostic steps that were taken so far: * battery was checked comma it seemed to be ok... but, I replaced it with a new one anyway. * battery terminal wires are quite secure. * the alternator was checked and seems to be fine. * belts to alternator are tight. * relay fuse for starter is good. "Square black fuse" * the only thing I can see visually is there is a yellow fuse on the actual positive terminal line going to the battery that looks burnt. I don't know what it is called or how to find a new one, but it's the rectangle fuse that you see when you open the hood and look at the battery. I need to try and replace this and see if it's the stupid easy simple little problem that was overlooked.

I am having a similar experience as you had... I went to start my car and it wouldn't turn over... all lights turned on but wouldn't turn over... tried a hour later started up with out having to boost it.. took it right to the shop they tested the battery and said it's fine a bit on the weak side as it a 2012 I could replace it if i wanted to.. and i did as winter was about to start didnt want to deal with this in snow... 4 months later i went to start my car and it wouldn't turn over... I boosted it the next morning and it was fine after that... fast forward it 2 more months and I started the car the other day and I could smell something burning... opened the hood notice of the positive post one of the connecting wires was smoking... took it to the shop... they tested everything all connections are on and everything tested perfect how ever 5mins later they notice the smoke and hand to find what the cause of it... looks like the fuse on the battery needs to be replaced and the wires had to be cut and reattached.. I have the option to replaces the cable wires...

I'm having the same exact issue. I have a 2010 Mazda 3S grand touring. It has just over 50,000 miles on it and has been a great car so far. Went to start it the other day the battery was dead. Took the battery to AutoZone they tested it said the battery was dead but no dead cells. They charged it I brought it back home put it back in my car car started up fine. Drove it around the block to test it battery light came on after 5 to 10 minutes ABS light came on the Bose sound system flashed on and off Power steering light came on the car acted as if it were going to stall. It did not stall I made it back home turned it off tried to restart and it would not start. I had it towed into the Mazda dealership. After having it for eight hours they called me and told me simple fix it needs a new battery! I explain to them what I had done they said nope it's a bad battery we put a new one in. Please pay the cashier $183… Three days later I went to drive my car again same exact thing happened… Called the dealership told them it's obviously not the battery because now they're $183 battery is dead in my vehicle there is something draining the battery. They told me on their last testing that the alternator was good… So we'll see what they say now

Has anyone found what was causing this issue with the car not wanting to start just randomly? My girlfriends car has been doing this for months and we just keep jump starting it and every time we have it tested everything comes back ok. Have not looked into all the wires but I do know that the battery terminals are tight as well as on the starter..wasn’t sure if anyone else has found what caused your vehicle to not start anything will help out.

Well, after telling my car into the shop for the second time… They told me it needed and complete new wiring harness… I asked them are you sure it's not just the alternator? They said no, the alternator tested great. They put a new wiring harness in called me to pick up my car… Then they called me right back and said sorry we are still having the same problem even with the new wiring harness. I was furious! I escalated this to management and they found that the alternator was the problem. Even though it tested good on two other occasions! They replaced the alternator and my car has been working fine since.

Well thank you for the response I was thinking it had to be in the wiring harness or alternator but since the battery never died completely and would start up just fine even after hooking a charger to it for just a couple seconds I was confused thinking it couldn’t be the alternater but there is so many electronics on vehicles now you never know where to start

Do any of you live on a hill? My husband said that he'd read of a Mazda 3 firmware issue where the battery wouldn't charge when driving downhill.

2012 Mazda 3 sport. Battery light on dash and then no start unless I jump it Problem. Alternator cable (white) burning causing voltage drop at the battery. Solution: You can visually see the white cable burnt on the battery Or using a multimeter Alternator - behind the engine left bottom side a white round cover carefully remove cover (I broke mine) you should be getting between 13 - 14V battery - you should have 12.5V off 13.5V running If your not getting the same voltage as the alternator to the battery take a look at the white cable connected to the battery on the positive side before the fuse. If it looks burnt and crusty it's because the wire burnt and now there's no current flowing to your battery. Meaning the alternator and battery are fine but the cable that charges the battery is no longer working. I assume as a electronic engineer the cable is too thin and too long and thus it burns up. My solution was to replace the wire. It was too difficult and time consuming to run it OEM. So I got 4 Gage cable and ran it on back of the engine (fire wall) zip tie it and made it shorter. It solve my problem and my car is running perfect. I hope this help if anyone need help just ask

You're problem is you're not getting a good ground. Follow your negative wire from the battery terminal to the the now take off the one that connects b to the body and wire brush till u see the paint comes off also clean the negative wire using wire brush. Let me Know if that fix it.

I had the situation. Really simple, pop the hood disconnect your battery terminals. Now locate ALL your ground wires and wherever it is bolted to make sure it is UNPAINTED.

Same problem. Car has been great, went on vacation (took a rental), came home and tried to turn the rental in and the Mazda wouldn't start. Used the rental to jump it, no problem. Left it overnight, tried turning it on today, nothing. Friend came over, we jumped it, fired right up. Took it to O'Reilly, battery tested bad. Bought a new one ($193 later), get it home and swapped out, damn thing won't start, won't jump, nothing. Had the battery tested and it's a good battery. The terminal fuse is blown, but is that the only issue or should it still start when jumped? I'm beyond frustrated and this is our only vehicle.

My 2012 Mazda 3 don’t start at all I let it sit for 3 months I put a new battery and it sounds like the starter is bad just spinning I had it tested it was good someone told me the motor froze up that it had no compression anyone know what to do here car was running perfected