There is a very simple check for a loose timing chain due to a
broken tensioner, worn gears, or a stretched chain. Pull the
distributor cap and observe the rotor position. Take a breaker
bar and a appropriate socket and put it on the crankshaft
damper pulley. If you have a degree wheel put it on the damper
pulley else you can just chalk mark the timing mark position at
the appropriate time.
Now - slowly turn the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction.
Watch the distributor and observe that the rotor is moving. Stop
turning. Now - mark the damper pulley position with the chalk or
observe the degree wheel. Very carefully turn the crankshaft in
the other direction and VERY carefully observe the rotor in the
distributor. The instant it begins to move STOP turning and mark
the crankshaft position again. Measure the number of degrees of
rotation of the crankshaft. If there is a lot of slop in the chain
then you will have moved the crankshaft ten or fifteen degrees
(or more) before taking the slop out of the chain after the
reversal before the camshaft began to turn. Get the picture?? If
all is well and there is no slack in the timing chain then you will
see about three to five degrees of "reverse motion" before the
distributor begins to turn.
If you are not sure how many degrees it turned during the
procedure there is a simple way to calculate that based on the
spacing between the chalk marks. Take a string and wrap it
around the crankshaft damper where you made the chalk marks
to measure the circumference of the damper. Let's say it was 18
inches. If there is one inch between the chalk marks then divide
1 by 18 and multiply the result by 360 (the number of degrees in
a circle). In this case the answer is 20 degrees and it is time to
replace the gears!!!
If the valve timing is off then the engine will run poorly. There are
many reasons for that but one main one is that the compression
will be low on all cylinders. If the chain slop is not excessive it is
still possible that you have jumped a tooth especially if it is a
rubber timing belt.
To check the valve/crank timing just pull the valve cover and
observe the valves for the #1 cylinder. Pull the spark plugs, hand
crank the engine over with a finger covering the spark plug hole
for #1, and wait until it starts up on the compression stroke.
Make sure you are rotating the engine in the same direction that
the starter motor turns it. You will feel the pressure escaping
past your finger. That means that the piston is on the way up
towards top dead center (TDC). Now, watch the timing mark on
the crankshaft damper pulley and continue rotating the engine
until the timing mark is at TDC. Both valves must be completely
closed at this time. There should be no doubt of it. You can
watch the valve action as they close and make certain that they
are closed. If either one is even slightly open you have a
problem. A compression test will also reveal timing problems.
From the above description it should be obvious that the
compression on all cylinders will be low if a valve is still open at
TDC. So all cylinders will show low compression values.
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