Classic car

Did you change the points and reset the timing? Set dwell at 30 deg. You are not used to a carburetor, Hopefully it still has a Rochester Quadrajet with an automatic choke. To start the car pump the gas several time this shoots raw fuel into the engine while tripping the choke take your foot off the gas and try to start if it doesn't start check to make sure the choke butterfly is closed, start the engine as if it were flooded, push the accelerator pedal all the way down and have someone watch to make sure the choke unloads and opens the butterfly about 1/4 in. When the engine starts run it until it's cleared then shut it off before it warms up next get the choke to set just move the pedal down just enough to close the butterfly then hit the switch, the engine should idle really fastthen kick the throttle once the idle shoud remain high enough so that it doesn't stall when put in gear, the fast idle adjustment screw is down low behind the choke housing adjust as need.

I had took it to a mechanic a few months ago and he did tell me he adjusted the timing and the ignition points. I have an Edelbrock 4 barrel manuel choke carburetor part number 1405. That's what I had to start the car. I have step on the gas a few times before turning the key. And I already adjusted the speed screw. How I start my car now is I just step on the gas but it has a hard start.

Would changing the timing and ignition points change the sound of the car? My car use to sound like a loud muscle car but now it's just like a normal car.

Have the points changed, that will take care of the starting problems. Ignition timing can definitely make a car sound different.

Yes. The mechanic changed the points and timing. So what should I do? Should I take it back to him to changed everything back or should I take it to another mechanic to change it?

Stay with the same mechanic a different one would have to start over and you might be in the same boat as you are now. If the points are new and the timing has been set. Have your mechanic check the accelerator pump in the carb, if it's working have him reset the idle mixture screws and watch him do it. Then you can adjust it to the rolling idle that makes it sound cammed up. Manual chokes are hard to use because you never know where to have it set but you'll get used to it. Take Care

The only problem is that mechanic doesn't know anything about carburetors.

I do. The mixture screws are on the base of the carb facing forward before you do anything with them bottom them out and count the number of turns it takes do it for both screws, you can always put it back to where it is now if nothing else. Start with the screw on the right (passenger) side. With the engine running turn the screw in 1/8 of a turn rev the engine a little then when it settles down do the same to the screw on the left, soon the engine will begin to sound a little deeper when you feel it start to stall back the screws out a bit, the rumble you want will come when one screw is out further than the other. As you play with it you'll get more comfortable doing it. Next see if there's a parts store that will lend you a dwell meter if you can find one let me know I check this site almost every day, have fun take care.

I tuned the carburetor two days ago and the idle sounds good in park but when I switch to drive the sound of the engine gets really low and when I turn the steering wheel left it dies. I start the car again turn the steering wheel right it dies but when I turn the steering wheel left or right I can feel and hear gears grinding. What does all this mean?

Where is the noise coming from? The power steering pump could be going bad or the idle might be the correct speed with the wrong mixture in other words you may have to richen the idle mixture 1/8-1/4 turn on each mixture screw then readjust idle speed. Does the noise go away?

The noise is coming from the steering wheel column. Noise only happens when I turn the wheel left or right. Im starting to think I might have a fuel problem. I'll keep adjusting it.