Starter continues to crank..

Answer/Question: I've had the same issue: Starter keeps running after engine starts and key is switched off and clutch released. I checked the ignition switch and the clutch interlock switch, and both were ok. Plus, they're in series to the starter relay control, so unlikely both would fail together. I replaced the starter relay (Napa Echlin ST404), and the same thing happened, this time burning out both the relay and the starter. I've now replaced both. Works for the moment, but no confidence it will last. My guess is that the starter relay is under rating and eventually welds itself shut when cranking, which then keeps the starter engaged and running. In 1987 and earlier, the charging current goes through the relay. In later years (~1992) the battery is connected directly to the starter, and the starter relay only supplies the much lower control current to the built-in starter solenoid. So maybe they have cut down the capacity of the starter relays, but are still selling them as replacements for the earlier models, which is why (and that they're made in China) they burn up (and burn up the starter and/or run the battery flat, whichever happens first). I can find no current capacity spec for the ST404, but am thinking of getting a heavy duty solenoid to replace it. 80-100Amp continual?

i drive an 87 f150 with a 4.9. i had a starter not want to crank. so i had a local garage replace the starter for me. a few days later, the starter suddenly wouldn't cut off. a completely different problem! i pulled and replaced the solenoid 4 times. and thought it was defective parts. however... after i removed the starter, it became apparent to me that it was not shimmed properly. the starter bolt was, very slightly too long to tighten and seat without more shims. so remove your starter bolts and see if they have the right length of bolt.. add shims if needed. here is how it breaks down. as the starter engages, it grabs cockeyed and can't let go of the flywheel... this overloads the solenoid starter then possibly the battery.

it's a loose starter bolt. a loose starter bolt will pull on the flywheel crooked and not let the throw out bearing release the flywheel. probably didn't add enough shims(or washers). it's more likely that the person changing the starter didn't know why the bolt had a thick washer called a shim, or the more likely, 4 or five washers. add shims to the starter and make sure the bolt is not too long to completely tighten the starter. when the starter does this, it commonly damages the starter, battery, solenoid and voltage regulator.

What the heck does the throw out bearing have to do with the starter? The throw out bearing slides on the front shaft of the transmission, which is centered by the pilot bearing which is located in the center of the rear of the crank, which is guided through the rear of the engine by way of main journal bearings which are held in place by either a 2 or a 4 bolt main journal cap, which is bolted to the engine block, the reason the crank can protrude through the rear of the engine and not leak oil is due to the rear main seal which is in the form of a fiber and graphite rope or two independent seals that are joined when the upper half is placed in the groove that is provided above the journal and the lower half is placed on the rear of the oil pan that will eventually be tightened to join both halves to form the rear main seal! So you see that the throw out bearing has NOTHING to do with the starter and most definitely NEVER RELEASES the flywheel!!! The purpose of the throw out bearing is to depress the fingers on the pressure plate which in turn allows the clutch disc to rotate with the front splines of the transmission shaft spoken of earlier. The flywheel is always turning as the engine is running! Strictly educational, No Sarcasm intended! I hope this helps someone!

I think they meant the Bendix drive which allows the pinion gear of the starter motor to engage or disengage the flywheel of the engine automatically when the starter is powered or when the engine fires, respectively. And did not mean to say the throw out bearing.

I have a 1990 ford f 150 with a 302 engine, for the past month every now and then when I start it the started starters stays engaged, I get out open the hood tap the solenoid and it quits , I ran an aux ground wire to make sure it had a good ground, still no change......so I went and put a new solenoid on it,,, well it did the same thing , so I went and bought the old style ford starter solenoid thinking it was better because it stands more straight up, funny thing is this, I went into a store and came out and with the keys in my hand the started was cranking over,,, I opened the hood and tapped the solonoid and it quit,, what the hell is going on???

There are two bolts that hold the steering column to the dash. Remove those and the column drops to access the starter push rod from the switch ( for lack of better terminology), lubricate the rod. Might stop the "stuck" push rod. 87 model f150.

Fuel pump is not putting out enough pressure. Newer vehicles will crank for 15 seconds or so on their own when the computer thinks fuel pressure is low. This cycle probably wore out your starter. Check fuel pressure and probably replace fuel pump.

87 is old, how about oil leak? My car is 80 Mercedes and does the same thing. At first I thought it was a defective rebuilt starter solenoid, but after a new one, the problem persisted. After looking closely, though the ignition switch and the wires can not be completely ruled out, I suspect the oil leak is the culprit because impure oil can still conduct, esp oil that leaks out from an old engine(it probably contains some specks of metal dust).

I am dealing with the same problem on a 1986 F150 4.9 (carb). I have replaced the starter and solenoid, as well as the ingnition switch. I have been told by a couple of people that it sounds like a wiring issue? I was told that installing a push button start may take care of the problem?

i have a 1984 f250 have same problem changed every thing but the wiring , but after removing last starter the installer showed me the bushing in the nose of the starter was slightly chewed up which made the gear aliment to float slightly ! it ran fine for past year after the change out of the starter now its doing it again , so im starting to think starter shims are more likely the answer to this fix if not old wiring would be my next guess i like the idea of installing push button with a relay also very easy to install

Well I had a Ford, Taurus and a Oldsmobile, intrigue and on both my cars end starter stated acting up and in both cases it was a oil leak oil that messed up the starters. I don't know much about cars so all I can say there old both are 2000. Hope that helps someone. Any misspellings please excuse cause I can't really see what I'm typing. Have a great 1.

a bad computer could cause the same issue or a weak fuel pump as the computer controls every thing from 1987 and up.if a weak fuel pump is detected the computer thinks it did not start and continues to try and start.have it tested for weak pump or bad computer every thing goes out after a long time of not keeping a good eye on it.

My 86 does it and tapping on the solenoid with a hammer stops the starter..

my 1988 ford f250 3006 starter sticks and stays turning after it starts .....changed switch , starter and solenoid still doing it......

i have a 1962 thunderbird 390 and changed the starter solenoid because when i turned the key i got nothing just the red lights at the ignition but now i put the new solenoid in and after hooking up all the wires the last wire is the neg. lead to the batery and the engine just continualy turns over,with out turning the key on

i have a 1962 thunderbird and when i turned the key i was getting nothing, so i changed the starter solenoid with a new one and now after hooking all the wires back up the last wire is the neg. cable to the batery and the engine now just continuosly turning over,with out the key on i dont get it unless the solenoid is stuck and making a consistent conection

Perhaps the wire from the solenoid to the starter is shorting out. I had the same problem and found that the wire from the solenoid on the fender wall to the starter was touching the exhaust manifold and shorting out. Replaced the wire and it resolved the problem.

its crazy my 84 f250 i've changed starters ,two solenoids , ignition switch on column, thought had it all figured out ran few months no issues happy as can be then go to grocery store carrying perishable foods starter sticks wont turn off run out to open hood lucky i stil eave neg cable loose enough remove it starter still grounded and running tap the regulator with cable end .all stops !! its the relay sticking ! contacts sticking together is all i can figure ! also it was over 100 degrees outside !

I broke silanoid it's appernt there tiny wire to mount m shur those gave box nad ruber olactic brown wire and new inition it's shirts ground off hot side so other 49-59 silanoid had mount clipped silanoid I'm shur first some were for got

I have the same problem but I will try it;by the way I don't care for the New technology Ford put under the hood,as far as I'm concerned the 86 model was the most durable truck they ever made!!!!!!

BUY A 100 AMP SOLENOID !

Ok so we have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4cyl. Manual transmission. Only would pop start on incline. So we checked starter - previous owner had just changed it 0 took it out and had it checked - it was OK. Took battery ( only 2 months old) back to Walmart & got new one - changed Solenoid - put in new ignition switch - it started. Used a bout 5 times tops. Then wouldn't start again. Turn key fast clicking - no start. Cleaned negative battery cable post ( powdery stuff on it) and replaced the Negative battery cable end after cutting off a few inches at top Still clicking. Ok So discovered the negative battery cable wasn't connected down below on the bolt on the block - cable was completely broken off and the connector end was still attached to the bolt. We repalced the whole cable and top connector to the post. Wala - it started - But now it would not shut off when key was off - had to disconnect negative cable from battery. Took out new ignition switch put old one back in and WOOO HOOO - it started and turned off. The new ignition switch was to stiff and wouldn't move back and forth easily when key turned to off. So the old was was still good. So if you are having similar problems - try it all - first if you are having rapid clicking sound check both your battery cables - even trace it down to see if it hasn't broken off etc. Check battery - for volts and amps. Check Solenoid - ours was not a good one either. So I guess it needed to be changed too. We had replaced the ignition relay too but probably didn't need to do that either. So it's just a process but don't give up - I almost sold the truck because I didn't want to deal with it any more - but I love OLD PAINT!!

I have a 87 F-150 with an 3 00 inline 6. Fords often have bad grounds. Read the info that comes with new solenoid - they ground thru the base and a poor ground causes the contacts to weld. Scrape the paint before you mount it and I ran a ground wire directly to my battery since I haven't got around to running new frame to engine ground straps.

I had same problem with my 2000 ford expedition. It would crank without key. Tried all of the above and about ready to give up but tried looking at starter relay on starter and noticed the nut wasnt touching the copper wire that goes into motor. Tightened it down tight and has not cranked by itself since. Hope that helps

Ok, how about this... 92 bronco, 5.0 L, I removed all the wires from the starter syneloid and the starter STILL cranks non stop. I will take the starter off tonight but I can't understand why it being stuck in the flywheel would have it continue spinning with a signal from the sylenoid

still trying to figure this one owt it starts n keeps engaged then will stop when put in Geer then engages again on 81 ford xplorer with 302

Voltage regulator

the steering column bolts get Lucas that keep the shifting lever in place is making everything out of whack in the steering column with shorts out the solenoid tighten the two bolts that hold the shifting lever in place and you'll get amazing results