1989 F150 Fuel problems.

check all of the fuel lines and go to a parts house and get some Lucas and clean out your fuel injectors, and if that doesnt work then look into a new fuel pump

I also have an 89 ford f150 with the 5.0. Before spending a lot of money, jump the wires to the fuel pump just inside the frame rails under the driver door. Several fords that I have worked with fail at the relay controlling the fuel pumps, fore and aft. (You have two pumps, one on the rail and one in the fuel tank.) If the pump powers up, replace both the relay and the connector. Corrosion will cause the relay to fail.

Where are these wires at? And what colors are they?

I also have a 1989 f150 five speed straight 6. I just changed the fuel pump and the filter and after driving half the day it sputtered and died out I poured a gallon of gas in the tank hopping it was out and it started right up only to die out again after about 5 miles and now it wont start. Would you know what it may be and how to fix it?

http://blog.chiltondiy.com/2012/05/how-to-tell-if-your-fuel-pump- needs-replacing/.... great troubleshooting guide

I just overcame a 1986 5.0 efi f150 randomly dying on me. The fuel pump relay (driver side firewall under the hood hinge) powered up for 2 seconds at key to run position, but the high pressure fuel pump did not run at all, and there was no fuel at the fuel rail (used a modified toothpick to press the schraeder valve open). The eec relay and computer powered up also (behind the little box to the lower right of the steering wheel on the dash). I checked that I did indeed have 12volts to the inertia cutoff switch just above the upper left side of the passenger floorboard. I ripped the radio and heater control area apart to get to the fuel tank selector switch. I had also put my battery on the charger and pulled the high pressure fuel pump, checking all the wires at the same time. I hooked the fuel pump for a split second to the batter on the charger, it sputtered out gas and seemed to run fine. I reinstalled it. I also decided to bypass the fuel tank selector switch, connecting the second (middle) slot on the left (power in) to the lower left slot (front in-tank pump). I also connected the second (middle) slot on the right (signal to fuel guage) to the lower right slot (front tank sending unit). I re-installed the battery, turned the key to the run position and was happy to hear the relays click and the high pressure pump kick on. I then had a friend turn the key off and then back to run so that I could verify the in-tank pump in the front tank also ran for 2 seconds; it did. I had my friend cycle the ignition about 8 times until the pump started to sound like it was laboring a bit. I then pushed the schraeder valve again with my toothpick and fuel shot out at pressure. The truch started perfectly and ran like a top. If I have any further problems, I am 98% sure that it is will work out to be a shorted or bad connection between ground and the high pressure pump, or 12volts in from the inertia switch (possibly shorted by the tank selector switch). I hope this helps someone else. It was quite the mental effort to go through everything methodical.

I have 89 f150 4wd 5.0 fuel injected 2 gas tanks. Use back tank and ever 50-100 miles switch to front tank. For about 10-15 miles then switch back... and dont put gas in the front tank. Because I had your same problem about 2 months ago and that's how I fixed it without my new proble is the is the leak and the exhau somewher by the intake I was tol buy this mechanic gu by this mechanic guy that that there was it was a donut gasket needing replaced and told by the O'Reilly's auto parts store there's not a donut gasket on a 5-point. how I could figu how I could figure out how to fix the leak and exactly pinpoint where its at I know its up on the engine behind the battery right by the intake manifold and I'm a girl so how would I figure out if its a new oil

Find your exhaust leak using a piece of garden hose or flexible tubing. Put one end near your ear and use the other end to listen around the different areas of the exhaust manifold. On the passenger side of the engine above the exhaust manifold is your egr valve. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve). It puts a regulated amount of exhaust back through the intake. It is fed by a metal tube that can also corrode and leak so make sure you check it too. My truck also has exhaust crossover tubes that run from one head to the other. They are between the back of the motor and the firewall. Use your cell phone to take a picture back there if you can't see back there. There is a gasket on each head where the tubes attach. They can be removed with the intake on, but it is really tough, even with the intake off. Mine leaked and I just pulled them and put them back on with high temp silicon. Still working 3 years later. Mustangs have the same tubes in case parts are hard to get. Be very careful of the fans and belts when looking for the exhaust leak. Watch loose clothing and your hair (if it is long). If you can't find the leak, just go to a muffler place and ask them for a free estimate. They should find the leak pretty quick and tell you what's involved in fixing it. Then you can decide if you want to tackle it or pay them to do it.

they said to fix the lea anywhere between a hundre $12 the $25 is that a fair pric and I have another issu with the oil pressur I put the 15 W 4 oil in it like its lik oil and its like it's like suggeste but it still and I know the spedomete doesn't wor nor does the odomete and the needle for the gas gauge thin doesn't wor it just keeps floating back and fort and I was also going to put a2 quart oil filter and I was also going to put a 2 quart oil filter on there. And going to replace oil pump. Is there anyrhing i shud watch for while driving it. Its going to my sorta mechanic ( my uncle was mechanic for 40 yrs but hes really old now and wen he tried to fix my breaks he feel asleep under my car) I'll be taking it to him on Friday to do the oil pump and stuff my dad used to take care of all my vehicle problems for me but he died two years ago so I have no idea what I'm doing or hw much I should be paying but I just bought the vehicle before and I really dnt want to put alot of money in it. Only gt it to get through this winter after that idku

I have a 89 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 8 cyl 302 that had a fuel problem. It turned out to be caused when the butterfly valve got stuck in the middle. The butterfly valve has gas lines coming from both gas tanks into just one gas line that gos to the high pressure fuel pump on the rail along the drivers side door. Even though the tanks fuel pumps were good the gas was blocked by the stuck butterfly valve, After replacing it the truck ran again. They are hard to find and really hard to explain if you don't know what they are called.

i have a 1989 f150 with a 5.0 motor. what is the reason for the high pressure pump if it has a sending unit in the tank. does the sending unit supply the fuel to my high pressure pump.

I have an 89 ford f150 with the 5.0 fuel injected. it starts right up first time for the day but after you drive it and it warms up it wont start again. it just turns over. its had 2 new fuel pumps put in and it still does it. if I let it set for a lil while it will start back up but does the same thing after you drive it. any idea of what it could be?

I had a 4x4 do that to me and problem was the coil was bad. Put a new coil in it and drove the #@!& out of it until it rotted out. If I let mine sit and cool down before I changed the coil it would start and run anywhere from 10 miles to 75! It sure sounds like my problem. The Lady put tons of money into it until her hubby had enough. I basically bought it for scrap! Cost me about 5 bucks to fix it. If you have a coil pack it could be it OR the computer. I would unplug the connectors to it and clean them with TV tuner spray followed up with a quick shot of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil, (just a 1/4 second spray, good luck buddy...... I have to tell you my Brothers favorite thing he said about Ford trucks. "Ford trucks are out in the country working hard, while the Chevys sit in town looking pretty)! I lost him 3 years ago, he was my best friend/Hunting/Fishing buddy AND Best Man...

Having an 89 5.0 beater myself, the problems need to be addressed starting with the simple and moving to the more difficult. Where's the 89 cheveys and Gmc's .... they melted them down and used the recycled metal in the PRIUS. The lariat model has 3 fuel pumps, 1 in-line Hi-press underneath the drivers side body frame rail. and 2---- 1 each internal (Low pressure) internally mounted in each gas tank. all tie into the fuel line swap over valve (some before the High pressure fuel pump). This fule system is a tag team hand off system which makes fuel delivery problems rather difficult to nail down faults... .so key it simple! The internal (low pressure pumps) in the gas tanks start pumping as soon as you turn on the Key (KOEO) and pump gas out of the tank to the fuel line, down to the swap over valve. There are two types of swap over valves (Mechanical and Electrical) One- is mechanical which works based off of the internal gas tank pumps pressure to actuate the swap over selection. Two- is electrical of course and works a silonoid valve at the swap over valve and the internal low press fuel pump. The fuel tank switch inside your truck will not convey/ indicate/ distinguish which of the above type you have as the wires could go only to your pump in the tanks or to the swap over valve AND The internal pumps. you have to get down there and have a good old fashion look for yourself to find out! While your at it, you will see your High pressure Fuel Pump mounted on the body rail as well. Make sure the wires to the HPFP are all connected Once past the swap over valve, is the HPFP (High pressure Fuel Pump) and then more fuel line up to the engines "Metal" fuel rail and EFI (Injectors). Then on the return end fuel rail (Metal rail) , there is a mechanical fuel pressure regulator valve. This Valve keeps the Fuel from draining down in the fuel lines and back to the tanks. It also makes sure you have a constant HIGH PRESSURE at the Fuel Rail. After that its all down hill baby! else the fuel line would constantly siffel gas through the lines and back to the tank (in theory). Simple stuff first! ***************************************************************** Key on Engine off (KOEO)- Under normal conditions you should hear the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) kick in and run for 2-4 seconds then it will shut off if working correctly. HPFP pressure is around 90-125 psi as the norm operating press and only runs when the pressure is not (Built up.... or the engine is running and causing the pressure to drop). Otherwise it runs KOEO for about 2-4 seconds and then quits----aka normal eg OKay. Unless the pump is bad and not capable of building up the pressure. if not don rush out and blow 150 on a new one.... check the pressure regulation before doing that. besides we need to make sure by doing the test below. If you dont hear the HPFP kick in and run, then you need to check the Fuel inertia switch first and make sure it has not tripped and caused the problem. Reset it by pushing in on the reset button. Located at the drivers side fire wall (inside) next to the clutch and fuse box. Probably closer to the foot board panel behind the clutch, light dimmer switch, and engine compartment wall........you can manually (test) trip this switch with a tap from a screw driver handle, just reset it afterwards. it will make a springy ball bearing rattle when you tap and trip it. Just reach on top of it and press the red button to reset it by pressing down until it clicks. Tripping it (taping with the screw driver) should be equal to the jolt you would feel from hitting a brick wall at 5-10 MPH. Its designed to shut of fuel flow in the event of a crash to keep the pump from pumping gas in case of a fire and or damage to the fuel line in the even of a truck crash/wreck.........thats it~ so to speak. If the HPFP did not run at Key on ENGINE OFF (KOEO) and the Inertia switch was not tripped....... look under the hood (drivers side) and find the relay switch next to all the wiring harness connections just below the Drivers side Break Master cylinder and resivor (drivers side engine TIRE fender-well and breather filter encasement). The relay switch is about 1.5 inches square Plastic box and is mounted vertically. and you will be confused because there are 2 of these plastic boxes (relays) sitting next to each other. Have a beer and Flip and coin and choose one (lol).... No, its usually the one closet too you as you stand next to the drivers side fender. But the Outside fuse cover box should tell you which one it is..... With KOEO-------Tap the relay (rather hard but dont shatter/break the casing) with the screw driver handle and listen for the HPFP to kick in and run for 2-4 seconds. You may need to tap them several times just to be sure. If the pump kicks in and runs for a couple seconds then you know that the relay is going bad (sticking, etc) and needs to be replaced. Either that or you need to keep that screw driver with you when you go parking on a hot date with the local hooker. Lastly, you should hear the HPFP kick in each time you turn on the ignition key (but not starting the engine) KOEO....as the normal operation. Fuel to the HPFP So you got fuel to the HPFP but dont know if its makeing it to the engine. If you did the test above and the tested good, all should be good and you can assume the prob is some internal failure. It could be the swap over valve, the internal fuel pumps inside the gas tanks, or No gas in the tank to start with. To test the HPFP, you have to have remove one of the DUK clips from the line down near the HPFP and use a 1 liter bottle to catch the gas. Its high pressure and will pump about a quart of gas (during KOEO) in about 5 seconds or less. As I said. ..... after this it gets into the hard stuff and could be a number OR combination of issues like the swap over valve or the internal (low pressure) fuel pumps in the gas tank. or Both~ maybe evne a bad brain or clogged fuel injectors not causing it to run. It only takes 3 things to make a motor run,.... a supply of - Oxygen, Fuel and a Spark all acting in perfect time and sequence of events in a continuous cycle! Keep it simple

ive gotten a 1989 f150 4x2 when i first got it i could crank it but only with something flammable in the breather but it wouldnt run id give it gas and at a certain point it would die like it wasn't getting enough fuel so i replaced all the fuel pumps and fuel filter and put plugs and injectors but it still wont run and its getting gas to the fuel line so now im thinking it might be the fuel pressure regulator so i got one ordered but if that doesn't work what could it be?

I have a 88 Ford F-150 I6 4.9L. It was running prior to it sitting for a few months. I have put a new fuel tank, Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Distributor Cap and key, Spark plugs and wires. The truck will attempt to start but will not run. I have check the fuel shutoff and that’s not popped off, and the truck will run as long as I spray starter fluid into the intake. Any suggestions??