fault code 18

sounds like the cat converter is stoped up.

I would also check your Oxygen sensor, MAP sensor (on passenger inner fender), and Idle Air Control Valve (on the side of your Air Cleaner box). I had an 86 Ranger with the same motor that did something similar, after I replaced those three things I didn't have any problems.

I figuired I'd better start from scrach. I got right into it and found the belt off one tooth--- the distributer cap on backwards so it was cockeyed causing the rotor to scrub the cap forcing the shaft to be off -- I'm thinking it might of been raping the pickup coil so I have replaced the pick up coil while I had the dist out -- everything was on hold -- having a roof put on my house -- then the weather arrived right after -- been rainy then snowy and a bit chilly -- now with both -- waiting for this clipper to go by then I'll resume the attack to see if anything I did helped.

sounds like you got it figured out.

what happened? I'm in the same boat...

the issues I had-----EGR, EGR modulator sensor,(ended up blocking exhaust to EGR from engine) OXY sensor, TFI (replaced & moved to front header of engine compartment to reduce heat issues), timing belt/timing(was a bitch), bad plugs, couple bad ign wires, terminal broke inside cap hence bad cap---if I had my druthers I would sell that motor & put in carbureted engine--it's just too goddamn fussy and there not enough info out there to resolve the chickenshit issues--it eats O2 sensors and runs very lean--no info if computer (CPU) can be reprogramed

The EGR in my truck was removed by previous owner. My issue started when my wires to TFI got caught in my asteering column. The TFI was cracked so I replaced it and now it runs rough, hesitates, and backfires. I get code 18C. I've been cleaning up my wiring I'm pretty sure my harness is not the original because all the connectors and relays are spliced on. (damn electrical tape)

here's what i found out---even if the component is not being used mechanically is still has to be electrically used as it were for the computer to operate within reason---my egr is still connected to system (CPU) to do it's operation except that the exhaust is blocked----it's like rowing a boat (on land)without water---the oars are still moving (working)but no water is being disturbed cause there isn't any

yep, found the SPOUT wire actually is being grounded, which I thought I had checked before but I guess it is such an intermittant ground it didn't pick up initially... Also i have a electrical EGR simulator thing on the EGR sensor connector, which I recently had to replace because it fell off while in tow when this crap all started. I wasted alot of time figuring that out and bought a replacement egr sim. I also had to fix the wiring to the fuel pump which was staying on because it was wired with a power coming from the main EEC relay so it would always be on. I think they probably did this because the fuel pump was weak/failing which I also previously had to replace. Ay Carumba!

how did this much go sideways---also my sprot was/is grounded via the aluminum (MFG) outside sheath wrap to stop electronic noise.--were you stating that the wire itself inside was grounding out????---this might be to late but you should be able to get wiring schem from autozone---you better check all the wiring do to all these inconsistencies--- if somebody had replaced the radio they may have corrupted some of the wiring harnesses to accommodate it

Question: Should the SPOUT wire ground inside the PCM? I thought the wire was grounding inside the harness, but further testing indicates it only grounds when the pcm is connected. I thought the PCM should send voltage through the spout and not ground it? I'm testing from the inline connector to the computer.

I don't know if this will help you or not--click on any or all http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtm l http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/TFI_ignitio n_system.gif https://www.google.com/search? q=spout+wiring+diagram+85+ranger+2wd&rlz=1C1NHXL_enUS7 13&espv=2&biw=1033&bih=551&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ& sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjogred687PAhVJYiYKHZ2EDfMQsAQIGw#q =spout%20wiring%20diagram%2085%20ranger%202wd&tbm=isc h&tbs=rimg%3ACYJAANOLeTLwIjj4NzZngjBPGwHx4OeozB1rh MUNkRbLtW9MaoPtt0rgldGRWdHnLkacT4- kt_1KyD7jCD2BqFnJsoSoSCfg3NmeCME8bEXPimIQIVMozKhIJ AfHg56jMHWsRwZxGNWBEyYAqEgmExQ2RFsu1bxHNsShSINi 40ioSCUxqg- 23SuCVEXn6mkR3ngyTKhIJ0ZFZ0ecuRpwRdpDenIjyrpEqEglPj6 S38rIPuBG- deCbQiy7VCoSCcIPYGoWcmyhEdllYeoleqcw&imgrc=gkAA04t5 MvA6GM%3A

https://www.google.com/search? q=spout+wiring+diagram+85+ranger+2wd&rlz=1C1NHXL_enUS7 13&espv=2&biw=1033&bih=551&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ& sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjogred687PAhVJYiYKHZ2EDfMQsAQIGw#q =spout%20wiring%20diagram%2085%20ranger%202wd&tbm=isc h&tbs=rimg%3ACYJAANOLeTLwIjj4NzZngjBPGwHx4OeozB1rh MUNkRbLtW9MaoPtt0rgldGRWdHnLkacT4- kt_1KyD7jCD2BqFnJsoSoSCfg3NmeCME8bEXPimIQIVMozKhIJ AfHg56jMHWsRwZxGNWBEyYAqEgmExQ2RFsu1bxHNsShSINi 40ioSCUxqg- 23SuCVEXn6mkR3ngyTKhIJ0ZFZ0ecuRpwRdpDenIjyrpEqEglPj6 S38rIPuBG- deCbQiy7VCoSCcIPYGoWcmyhEdllYeoleqcw&imgrc=gkAA04t5 MvA6GM%3A

Well, I finally seem to have gotten it going. I have done so much I'm not sure what fixed it. First, I took it to a mechanic who didn't want much to do with it. he did replace my MAP Sensor and then my Distributor. Neither fixed the problem and I brought the truck back home because he didn't have time or space for it and I didn't have more money to give him anyways... So I got a few more parts myself to put into it. Also I accidentally drained my battery, had A-zone charge and check it. I replaced my positive battery terminal because it was crap. and my fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose because it was the last old vacuum hose left. I had some weird stuff happen from the extra juuice first time(from battery terminal connection), I also had replaced the dist cap, rotor and spark plug wires. It ran smoother but the problem with the hesitations was still there. then I replaced the tfi module again ( was the first thing I did initially) and it didn't work, but the timing was also off at this point because it seems the guy that did the Distributor left it loose? because it still can turn which i believe adjusts my timing. anyways, I got the dist at a position near what it was when I picked it up and removed the in-line conector for the SPOUT and started it up to get a base timing. it ran well, I put the connector back in to let the computer decide its timing advance and it ran well and so far I've done a couple short trips and its going well. Oh I also redid the rf shielding on the spout and pip and ground wires but that didn't seem to work or at least wasn't the last thing i did....

Update: I am able to get it going now only if I unplug the SPOUT Connector and run the engine for awhile and plug it back in. I'm not sure if it's to let the engine warm up or what, but I can start the engine with the Spout connected but after a minute or if I start driving it will start to hesitate, backfire if I open the throttle up, or die. When I remove the Spout connector it goes to base timing and can stay alive and even idles pretty well. then I can wait a few minutes sometime less and plug it back in and the timing advances and everything is fine. It has however started stalling while driving when I drop into neutral to stop or turn and the engine rpms falls too low. The only codes I get are the 34R which is for the EGR being removed and with the KOEO I get the 18C IDM /SPOUT. I have seen a few definitions for the code 18 and have tested for opens and grounds in all the wires related to the ICM (TFI module)... I got more information from the library but am really frustrated. I want to believe that the ECM is good because it pulls the codes, and I've visually inspected it and cannot find any damage (burns or discolorations, etc.) I am a bit at a loss right now, my only theory involves the IAT sensor which i need to remove and bench test. my reference 5v to all my sensors seems fine and I don't know how the IAT could have been affected by the initial incident but I don't have any money to throw parts at it right now if they aren't the right part to fix it. I also looked at the IAC but it looked very clean, maybe I should lubricate it just in case... I really want to build a new wiring harness just because but again I don't have the money and it's hard to locate the PCM pins i would need.