electrical problem causing my transmission to not want to shift from 3rd gear to 4th gear.

is the check engine light on, most common issues are the input and output speed sensors or the solenoid pack, ( worst case ) - if a battery has leaked acid there are two wire harness connectors under the battery that get corroded .

I'm dealing with the same thing. I'll post solutions when found, please do too. I've been working on this for a bit now. mine all of a sudden wont go into 3rd or 4th and goes into neutral instead of those gears. If I turn overdrive off it will at least stay in second and I can go 40-50 without going over 4000 RPM's but thats not reasonable driving conditions for my line of life, put some trans tune in and drove around a bit and it started catching 3rd a little. I'm going to add the other have pt and see. I'm working on a 05 crown vic. Going to review the codes that came up, I agree with other post that it could be shift solenoids for higher gears gumming up and the trans tune by seafoam might fix yours easier than mine being that you can still go into the higher gears sometimes :) I also have a 02 dodge stratus that I just bought thats in 3rd gear limp mode code said replace speed sensors, but that didn't fully work, may of bought a faulty sensor or 2. trying another tomorrow morning then going to try (ELECTRONIC) shift solenoid replacement for 3rd and 4th if I can find the service manual pdf to know if I have enough time to dedicate to completeing the process before going back to work.

btw chrystler and dodge and something else are in the same umbrella company meaning same parts and systems and problems and solutions. give more details of your problem. My speedometer was 20 30 mph faster than I was going and in 3rd gear limp mode (fail safe mode)

Was anyone able to see what the issue/solution was? I am experiencing similar with my 2003 T&C. When putting the vehicle in Drive, the engine shakes hard and does not change thru the gears.

Hi my is HARLEY I have the same exact problem with my 97 town and country nd im going crazy, it takes 1&2nd but slips back into 2nd nd stays like that,nd I can't go faster than 40mph I change the input&output speed sensors nd still the same change the transmission nd still the same...please somebody help...

I replaced a power steering reservoir and I accidentally broke the vacuum line then mine started to not go into overdrive

I just finished fixing my 2009 T&C transmission by rewiring the electrical connector. If you look at where the wires enter into the silicone boots you may notice that the insulation on the wire seems to get thinner. This is characteristic of a broken wire inside the insulation often caused by the strain relief being too tight. I have seen this happen in a number of circumstances on various wiring harnesses and it it often very difficult to trouble shoot since it will first present as an intermittent problem that never seems to happen while at the mechanics garage. The codes that result will make it look like a sensor problem, I even got an invalid gear ration code, but it's just that the computer can't measure the proper signals from those sensors.

I will go with the wire harness, that tip help me find my problem...thank you guys. ...much appreciated.

It could be the output speed sensor and Torque converter might be going out.

I found that if your speedometer is off, you should change the output sensor. My G.V. will only shift into first and second and I replaced both Transmission Control Modules (input and output - this ran about $40 and took about 1 1/2 hours). I will follow the wires next and confirm that they are good. If they are then I'm stuck again.

Our 2010 T&C recently began doing the "limp home" bit. I replaced the output speed sensor. This cleared the idiot light. When I disconnect the battery for 10-15 monutes, the car will drive normally for some time, on the highway, about 90 miles. When you stop and take off, limp mode again. Repeat battery deal, it clears, again... I'm thinking electrical over mechanical. Perhaps solenoid pack... I ordered a DVD service manual, yet to see it.

Update on this. My ODBII reader was showing voltages of between 13.6 and 13.7. At one point when driving, the computer showed a battery symbol, and alarmed. OK, I bought a new battery, and the problems are gone now. Don't know if this will help anyone, but this solved our problems.

I had this problem about 6 months ago with my '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager and while googling finally found a solution that helped me. There is a solder joint on the circuit board behind the instrument cluster that will crack with time and thus intermittently lose connection. The description of how to fix it is on the allpar site http://www.allpar.com/model/m/repairs/3G-cluster.html. I tried this and think I overheated the connection with my bad soldering iron. I went to the wrecking yard to get a new (different) instrument cluster. I pulled 6-7 out and every single one had the same cracked solder joint. I finally bought one, re-soldered the joint and it fixed my problem! My van was good for 4-5 months but just started having periodic shifting problems into high gears again. I assume it is the same issue so I'll try to re-solder again. It could be something else this time, but I'm almost certain it is an electrical connection somewhere.

I have replaced the TCM, speed sensors, the shift module and solenoid, and the instrument cluster on my 2000 Dodge Caravan and still it will not shift out of sleep mode because my speedometer will not work. When speedometer works it shifts. What can I check now?

My 2000 Caravan goes into limp mode at times. When the car is turned off then back on it fixes, but the error light stays until cleared. And, I have the instrument panel problem; that the power disconnects, but with a bash of the hand it reconnects, The soldier joint crack seams to be the culprit. Thanks

http://newprotest.org/details.pl?1410

I'll share this : I just got done tearing down and installing the a604 in my 2008 Town and country for the second time. The problems started when lost reverse.When I took the drum apart I found two frictions together from the factory at the top of drum!. Well, after carefully rebuilding the whole transmission 3rd gear would not engage and gave 3rd failure code. So I checked everything switched solenoids sensors etc ..took it to Chrysler they told me nothing except it had to come apart again and charged me 125.00 for diagnostics. Took it apart again everything looked good , one snap ring was giving a friction some interference so I replaced that. I Checked the engagement with air test before reassembly. I put it back in Use the correct fluid etc.. Now 4th gear don't work! What a terrible design. I've rebuilt a bunch of transmissions and had problems BUT never again will I buy anything with A604/41TE. I'm done with tearing it down I will play with the electrical but I highly doubt success. I say junk it You are way better off.

Had that in 1999/2000 on my 1993 2n generation. In Decembger 99 Chrysler-USA even changed the transmission. Spring 2000 Chrysler-France found the problem; it was just one (cheap) relay. We changed both and still works fine. Too much electronic in those things.

in the first post from da3grunt, what MY T&C that corroded connector?

I have the same problem as far as the car failing to shift out of 3rd gear (I guess it's 3rd). In addition, my speedometer needle is jumping around. That's sound like a bad solder joint in the instrument cluster. I've had to resolder the instrument panel for other problems in the past.

Having the same problem with my 2010 T&C. Battery was badly corroded and replaced in May. Then it started having issues starting so we replaced the starter the next month in June. The same month the side door wouldn't lock and we had to replace something inside the door which was not cheap. Then in July, the transmission started getting stuck in about third gear ( can't go over 40 ). The engine light would come on and off intermittently. I took it to one dealer who said it's 100% electrical and wasn't sure if they can fix it or if they would have to refer to a local Chrysler dealership. I ended up taking it to the Chrysler dealership and they said it was the brain of the vehicle that needed to be replaced. So we paid $1100 to replace the brain two weeks ago. The other day the van started with the same problems again. I want my $1100 back!

2008 Town and Country T&C with similar issue. No error codes but van will occasionally not shift and is stuck in lower gear. When this happens, turning the car off and then back on has always reset the issue and it drives normal. I assume it is electrical as fluid looks good. Took it to a transmission place and they could not find anything (no codes, good fluid, didn't act up). Next step is a call to the dealership I guess.

It's probably going to be your Apex Illinois pack which is located right behind the radiator at the front of the transmission only 3 bolts

GuruDS8H5 And stlscuba did you guys ever get a resolution to your vans?

I have a 2005 dodge grand. Caravan van it won't shift out of drive after u take off if any or can help me please call me at 606 272 2947

Have a 1999 chysler town country lx put it in to drive and takes a few minutes before it'll go same way when you put it in to reverse idel 1 half rpms and takes right off I checked trany fluid check see if had any leaks none what so ever what could it be

ty you help a lot

Chrysler Van question: highly recommended transmission specialist said transmission needed replacement. Got a younger transmission and replaced it, still would not shift right. So he replaced it w/ another transmission. Still wouldn’t shift right. So now they tell me it’s an electrical issue and I need an electrical specialist. Because the wires sit close to the radiator and the battery on these vans very easy to have the wires affected. My dodge caravan had an issue before it died but it only happened like once a week and never did it loose its ability to shift in a good drive, whereas this one will drive fine then start revving and not shift, three different times on one day every day. What do you say?

Hi I have a problem with my automatic gear,when I shift it to D or N my engine shutdown & now I have unplugged all the wire from the gearbox is not shutting down the engine. What can be a problem pls help

My 2002 Town and Country was stuck in limp home mode so I threw it on the computer and it said replace the shift solenoid sensor at the time this problem occurred is when it was a real bad rainstorm so I drove it for about two and a half weeks while it was stuck in limp home mode then all the sudden 2 days before I got paid and I was going to buy the part the shift solenoid sensor which is right behind the radiator on the front of the transmission I started my van to once again creep about 35 miles an hour down the road to work I go to put my van in 3rd gear because if I drove it in Drive it would not go as fast as 3rd gear but anyway the transmission acted like it slipped a couple times and then it started shifting so I stopped at the stop sign put the car in drive gear and it drives fine like nothing ever happened it does not make that thud sound whenever it shifted and my check engine light automatically turn off does anybody know why or how just happened

On my friends 2000 Dodge Caravan Sport that was not shifting into 3rd, I found a corroded plug on top of the transmission close to being under the battery box with a pin broken off on the transmission side. I did a temporary repair to see if it would work and it did. I am working on a long term repair, but the plastic on the transmission side of the connection is very brittle.

I found wires all fused together running over my exhaust manifold. When I separated them my 2002 Caravan ran like new.

After being told I needed a new transmission I went looking for the wires that ran to my fuel injectors over my exhaust manifold on my 2002 Dodge Caravan. After separating the wires it ran perfectly

We are having the same issue with our 2009 T&C van. It won't go past 40 mph. We had in a shop twice now. They changed a sensor and put some new wiring in. But it is not fixed yet!

On my 2013 dodge caravan I replaced the solenoid pack, still stuck in 3rd gear and reverse is very very weak.This is the same thing it was doing before I replaced it,. Anybody have any help. 2013 dodge caravan

Same issue 2014 town and country. The dealership replaced the PCM after some other issues and now the car's engine light is on and it won't shift out of 2nd (I think). This thing was running relatively fine then everything has started failing . Never buying another Chrysler.

Just dropped off my 2009 T&C at the dealership. The car seems stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear. The fault code was the intermediate shaft sensor on top of the transmission, in which i replaced, but still no fix. I guess it's in some kind of Limp Mode or something. So, we'll see. Stay tuned.

has anyone tried this kit from ebay. it has the harness set and mopar filter A604 40TE 41TE MOPAR Input Output Speed Sensor W/ Wire Harness SET Filter KIT

2005 Chrysler town and country reverse has gone out. It shifts into gear properly but wont move. Changed fluid solenoid and trans.filter. what am i missing? How do i get it out of fail safe mode if thats what its in?

someone found the solution ?

Don't ever buy Chrysler or Dodge

2012 grand caravan crew 3.6L was driving perfect, I put it in reverse and NOTHING, it made no noise/vibration, NOTHING! all 6 forward gears are flawless but zero reverse. any ideas?

I had the same problem. I changed a lot of stuff just to find out it was a relay in the fuse box.

2012 3.6L Dodge Grand Caravan. Sooo I have replaced the transmission with a remanufactured Transmission (from street smart), a rebuilt TIPM (from MAK’s), and a rebuilt PCM (from flagship 1 [horrible customer service BTW]) and now a new engine wiring harness from (From moparpart.co) replaces the tranny in August drove from so cal to Laughlin ~800 miles it was fine. Then acted up when we got back replaced the tipm fine for about 2 weeks then the pcm about 2 more weeks and now currently replacing the wiring harness. All the remanufactured parts all have warranties so I’m not worried about that, I’m just tired of this problem. It is in limp mode or goes to limp mode quite a bit. If I happen to be in the freeway instead of going to limp mode it’ll just shift to neutral normally can pull over wait about 5 minutes and it’ll be fine for a little bit (tops about 15 miles) car has about 109k miles on it. At time shifts HARD almost clunking, RPMs are high on first start around 1250-1500 have adjusted multiple time, I wait until it’s around 750rpm before I’ll shift out of park on any start. So if I ever fix it all it should be more then great since all the majors have been replaced now. But I’m just tired of trying to figure it out. Does anyone have any other recommendations? Any other places to look? TIA

I know what all y'all problems are u have a dodge.

Has anyone noticed the -/+ next to the D gear. Theres six options 1-6. I own a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country. I have notice for about 1yr now that the -/+ lights up. I also noticed it make my van struggle in acceleration when driving it. Anyone in her who could explain this to me please?

My 07 town and country got stuck in second gear when my alternator went out. First the tv stopped working, then the dash stop lighting up. Luckily I was almost home so I parked it. Went to go to the shop and it's stuck in second gear. Replacing alternator tomorrow, if that is the fix I won't make another reply.

Any Luck? With alternator?

I have a 2000 GMC Chevy shift Sierra change transmission will not shift into 3rd

I have done everything on my 08 t&c and I finally tried one more thing. The Trs (transmission range sensor) its inside the tranny. But its basically the safety natural switch and has a sensor built in. That was my issue. It seems like it's electrical after change everything or pcm but seem to be the issues with the vans.

I have a 2013 dodge grand caravan, i recently had the transmission solenoid replaced for about $800 because it had gone into limp home mode, it had a code that alerted mechanic with check engine light on. To make a long story short, it ran good for about 200 miles and then went into limp mode again! I went to the - and + position at the bottom of the gearshift and went right and then left, the numbers for the gears started displaying and i put it into 5th gear and started driving and everything went back to normal. The van has 62000 miles on it, i bought it with 59000 miles, so far i have replaced the fuse box $1200, the starter $500, and the solenoid $800, don't buy a dodge without a extended warranty!

To continue my story about the 2013 dodge grand caravan above that has had the trans. solenoid and fuse box and starter replaced. Stuck in limp home mode started again so back to the shop and this time the engine computer was replaced for $1100, i went to pick up and still stuck in 3rd gear but now after fault code p0882 has shown up it is shifting gears but check engine light is on! Do not buy a dodge without a extended warranty! I am not willing to cut my loses at this point being invested with $3600 of parts during the time i have owned the van which is 6000 miles!

My mechanic was able to fix the p0882 trouble code by finding corrosion in the electrical connections linking up the trans. to the engine computer, cleaned out the corrosion and now runs normal for time being! Hope i can be trouble free for a few years!

My 2005 Town and Country wouldn't shift in hot weather after driving a while, (P0700 code) so I went into the fuse box and replaced the EATX Safety Shut Down Relay for $20. Problem solved! Thanks, Occam's razor!

I have a 2013 dodge grand caravan, and it went into limp home mode again. It gave fault code P0882. Sometimes clearing the code would allow it to shift again but it would go back into limp mode shortly after, sometimes with the check engine light on but always the same code P0882. Replacing the TIPM fuse box solves my problem for about 5000 to 10000 miles and then the whole process repeats. I don't know why every TIPM keeps failing eventually with the P0882 code. I have bought the last 4 fuse boxes from the auto wreckers to keep the cost down. Is there a way to repair these fuse boxes inside, because my mechanic believes it has to do with the transmission control module not working which is located inside the fuse box?

transmission control module is not in the Fuse box or under the Fuse box it is located in the Driver side Front Wheel well ( Warning if the transmission control module is bad it will cost up to $500 for a new one ) i had to replace mine

Most Town & Country have more wiring issues then part problems check the wire harness for places that look burnt or mangled and touch any metal surface if so take the covering off and check the wires. If you find and broken or fused wires together be careful and separate the wires and refuse them together properly ( Check wire Diagrams online there free ) then replace a new wire cover over the wires and make sure the harness is in a secure located away from any hot or sharp area's.

I have the same. my 2008 RT 3.8L limited goes in limp mode. I stop the car, kill the engine and start again. then it appears again when I do a lot of breaking, steering. I drive like this for 4 months now, about 5k miles. I think it has to do with wires, the gearbox is flushed and runs fine. It's a 100% electrical issue. Tomorrow the car goes to a specialist. I want the to check wires first, than sensors etc.

Transmisson computer on firewall replace it.

Hi I have 2010 Chrysler T&C 3.8 , problem starts with feeling the car knocks when shifting between Drive -Neutral, Reverse . Two mechanics checks the car and said its the transmission and Engine Mounting parts need to be replaced. Third mechanic said ,they are wrong since the mounting parts are new, you properly have a transmission problem. two years driving with this problem, till the transmission started getting stuck in about third gear ( can't go over 40 MPH or 70 KM ). The engine light would come on and off intermittently. Took it to Transmission Specialist , did a computer check to the car and ound that the solenoid valve is faulty, and he did a drive test and found that the clutches are weak , and the transmission need rebuilt. I did another consultation with another Transmission specialist from different country , he got a Youtube channel in ( transmission specialized ) and told me what parts to buy before i rebuild my transmission. I bought the original parts from Mopar as what i told to buy ( Transmission Master set , Torque, low gear ,New transmission Filter and original oil ,and few others name of them ). The Transmission specialist shop rebuilt my transmission, but the knock while shifting didn't disappear, i feel it sometimes worst ,sometimes nothing. the speed of the 4th gear ,didn't have enough time to drive it a lot to judge if it fixed. after consultation with another mechanic he told me that the when you try to shift your gear and the car knocks ,that what cause the solenoid valve to go bad. Now i am going to an electrician to check the wiring , and gear knob hand before i go back to the man who did rebuilt my transmission and cost me a lot of money. i will try to get rid of it also very soon , just pain in the neck for bad transmission or bad wiring , on top of other problems in this car like the sliding door actuators . If i got solution for my car i will update .