how do i determine TDC with the camshaft on the ford bantam 1.3i xl 2006,rocam engine,so that i can set the timing correctly?

Oh, those Bantams- I wish they'd grow up! Seriously, now, did you mess with the timing? I don't know if your car has a timing belt or a timing chain because I'm stuck in the US and we don't have those here- if it's a chain, then I don't think your problem is timing, because the chain won't slip, and they rarely break on an 8 year old car- if it is a belt, it is possible it could slip- in that case, you will need a shop manual that shows you how to set up the relationship of crank to cam- if you are trying to change a belt OR chain, be careful- if you don't know what you are doing you could bend valves-

Im gonna let you all in to my little secret and save you all loads of time, lots of money and a huge Headache. The workshop manual will tell you to use the mark on the crank timing chain sprocket and that this mark needs to be pointing at 6 o'clock but of coarse this sits behind the oil pump and no one wants to split the engine from the gearbox to drop the sump to pop off the oil pump.( and just so you know once you pop of the oil pump and put it back your crank seal on the oil pump is bound to piss out oil it is designed this way).On of Ford's big after sales money making skeems then comes the shock that the seal is part of the oil pump an (agents only) and that you have to replace the whole pump to solve the oil leak and this at around R 1500 from the agents. But not to worry if this happened and the seal pisses out oil, take the oil pump off, rip out the paper thin crank seal and take the pump and the crank belt pulley of to your local BMG ( bearing man) They stock a standard off the shelve Old school crank seal that fits in the pumps housing and snug around the pulley shaft that will outlast the standard crank seal a thousand times.( Up yours Ford ). Right, now that I saved you all about 2 days and just under R 2000. There is 2 TDC marks visible without taking off the oil pump. the first one sits on the rim of the the back wall of the crank belt pulley it is a little slot and this has to line up with a very visible line on the oil pump's housing situated at about 2 o'clock. The other one can be found on the crank shaft itself, just pop off the crank belt pulley and look inside there is a slot on the on side of the crank this is also lined up with the workshop manuals timing sprocket mark and should be pointing to 6 o'clock. either way both these methods are cylinder 1 TDC, you can check it yourself by removing cylinder 1 spark plug and by placing a thin long screwdriver in the spark plug hole. Have someone slowly turn the engine with the 19 socket or spanner. Now my bank account no for all the money i saved all of you. LOL . just kidding. good luck with those Bantams and once again>>>>> ( Up yours FORD )

Hi guys, I've got a Rocam 1.3 ford flair 2003 model, re do engine over, set timing perfect. cam arrow to 12 o'clock, crank to 6 o'clock follow the red link on chain even the mark on crank pully to 2 o'clock but still nothing... now im so not happy i need help please... can that maybe on the sensor on the crank.

These ROCAM engines all have Camshaft and Crank shaft timing marks on them which line up with the respective marks. The Camshaft timing mark is lined up between the two 'Silver Links' on the Timing chain at the top of the camshaft sprocket and the Crankshaft timing mark with the one 'silver link' an the on the crank sprocket timing mark

Sorry dude, no advice but had an interesting problem related to your predicament. Recently did a minor overhaul (bearings & rings), on stripping the top found my self in a snag. Trying to loosen the camshaft pulley bolt, the pulley flange slipped in the cam shaft it self. Only to find that the Timing gear flange was not part of the cam shaft itself but pressed into the shaft on a spline recess meaning that even if my chain is inserted correctly, doesn't mean my cam timing will be correct. Food for thought...

Thanks ! Interesting !

Howdy. Ive recently replaced my motor all is good but no power when acceleration. Had mechanic cheeck it and he tells me that the timming is slipping somehow. How much of a pain is it to replace timming chain ect or to try tension it up?

The timing will not slip on these engines. The ignition timing is controlled by the computer box and the camshaft timing is pre set and is operated through a timing chane. The timing chain tension is operated though oil pressure.

I had a look myself regarding this timing story from the mechanic and what happens is that when you put a spanner on the crankshaft pully as if you turning the motor for tdc, the pully wheel turns a bit 1st then the chain moves. Its like a slight delay. When i phoned the mechanic back and asked him if thats what he meant by it slipping he said yes. He said the chain movement between the crankshaft pully and camshaft is to be instant no matter which way you move the pully. How do i go aboit tightening this up or replacing the timing if need to be?

That slack is taken up when these is no oil pressure in the tensioner. When the engine starts , you will have the timing chain tensioned through the oil pressure in the timing chain tensioner.

Ok so how do i go about sorting it out because everyone i go to or speak to tells me the timing is out. I have no power in the car when i accelerate. The car drives but has no acceleration power.

Check the Cam timing according to this diagram