Ford bantam starting problems

It could be a bad neutral safety switch, ignition, or starter. Since it only seems to fail when hot, I would suspect the starter. When you say it won't start, do you mean after hot it will crank over but won't fire up, or you turn the key and you get nothing?

Thanks! reelin68. It cranks but it doesn't fire up.

Okay, if it's cranking over but not firing up, it's not a starter issue, ignition, or a neutral safety switch. You either have a no fuel issue or a no spark issue. Start it up and get hot so it will have the no start condition. Once it will not start again, take the fuel cap off. Put your ear to the hole. Have someone hit the key to the Accessory position. Can you hear the fuel pump hum? If you do, the car should be getting fuel. Next you will want to check for spark. If it has spark, pull a spark plug and see if it's all black and fouled. Post back with your results.

Thanks again Reelin68 I managed to get it right, I found out that the problem was with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I changed only that and the engine is back to normal.

That was going to be my next thing to check. That's why I had asked you to pull the plugs to see if they were black and fouled. But you beat me to it! Good job! Glad you got it running again!

I have experienced the same problem a couple of days ago. thanks for tips found here. In my case, the starter has warned out, so brushes in the starter had to be replaced.

Hi guys My bantam 2008 also won't start..checked coil pack..all is ok? But I did notice my temp gauge wasn't worling before I had the problem of no start up??

If You Bantam cranks, but there is no spark, Check the starter relay. There is a strong posiblity that the starter relay has a short Circuit. This will cause no spark on cranking.

Hey guys.I have a 2011 model 1.3 ford rocam....starter just just spins at first the solinoid kicks but not turning the motor....but if the engine is running for a while after a push start....If i switch ignition of and start it soon after no problems....as if heat helps the starter..... So i would like to know is it the starter self or something electrical/else Thanks

Possibly the starter solenoid or bendix drive on the starter. Check the starter cables as well

Hi all I have the same problem with my Bantam I have replaced the solenoid and serviced the starter motor still the same problem continue any ideas? Thanks

Hi all my ford bantam drove smoothly it has bean standing for a year after i burst a water pipe i finely got around to fix it now it wont start it cranks over but no spark and no fuel can someone please help

Check the starter relay, It's possibly has a short circuit in it. I would swop them arround with each other. Check the inertia switch button incase it's tripped as this shuts off the fuel.

I have a 1.6 lx ford ikon, it strugles to start in the morning or if it stood for a couple of hours. I see the fuel pump only pump when i crank the engine. Is it supose to work like that or is it supose to presurise rhe fuel system when switched to on position.

When the ignition is switched to the ON position the fuel pump will operate for a bout two seconds to enerjize the system, and the switch off. When the engine is cranked to start , then the fuel pump will operate. It sounds like there might be some dirt collected in the filter on the base of the fuel pump. Check also the fuel tank beathing system. Remove the fuel filler tank cap and check if there is a sucking noise by the fuel filler cap.

Hi I'm having a problem with my ford bantam rocam 1.3 it cranks fuel comes and also it have spark but it doesn't want to start but and the injectors spray a lot of fuel I did replace another injectors but still the same

Check the Amperage draw on the main starter cable, If the main starter cable is faulty the current draw will be too high and will draw the current away from the PCM. Check that the Crank Sensor wiring is moved away from the starter selonoid wire as this will enduce current in the Crank Sensor wiring. Check the Fuses and the relays. Swop the starter relay with one of the other relays.

Hi guys I need some help with my Ford Ikon 1.6 rocam enjin 2004 model. New oil pump and timing guides replaced. Enjin cranks there is spark, petrol is distributing but doesn't want to start. Would really appreciate your help.

If the engine cranks, but no spark at the plugs, Its a sure sign that there is a short circuit in the starter relay. Swop some of the small relays arround first.

Can someone please help...i have a 1.6 rocam engine getting fuel and spark but wont fire up...checked all fuses ..timing etc

Check the starter solenoid wire that it is not running next to the Crank Position Sensor wires. Separate the two. Check also the main starter cable current draw from the battery to the starter. This could be drawing too much current. Check the relays. Swop them around. Where the relays plug into the junction box, the spade terminal might have spread out. If they have, remove the relay and get a thin flat screw driver and prize the terminal closed.

Hi guys.im nt answering any question is just that we have ford bantam 1.3 petrol.so it crank and have spark but the injectors it seems like doesn't want to open.n if i test the wires with test light it has fire but it doesn't want to open..plz hellllllllp

Not the correct way to test injectors or the signal from the PCM. You need a 12 volt power supply to the injectors, the same as the power supply to the coil pack. The signal is grounded through the PCM ( Computer Box) in Milli Seconds. Its best to us an oscilloscope. Rathe take your vehicle to a reputable Auto Electrician to get it checked out correctly

My is starting for some seconds and switches itself ,I checked and found that the problem is injecters, what might be the cause

Check the impact switch on the left side under the dash. If you hit a bump hard, this switch will trip and it switches the pump off. Are you sure its the injectors ? Are there more symtems . Who diagnosed the problem ? Was diagnostice test eqipment used. Have you checked the fuses and relays ?

Hi. I need help, my Ford Bantam 1.6 2009 has some kind of problem I don't understand. The engine turns/swings/cranks as if the battery is low I don't understand what's going on . Because my car has been standing still since 2days ago.

If you have a tracker, there will be a drain on your battery over this time. Check also the condition of your battery. On cranking the battery voltage drop must not be below 9,6 volts. It sounds like you have a battery problem. I would get the battery checked by professionals. How old is the battery ?

Please help with starter problem: The rocam 1.3L 2006 does not start at all now, when you turn the ignition nothing happens it started as slow starting but now nothing at all please help.

What is the condition of the Battery ? How is the charging rate of the Alternator ? The immobilizer Light next to the clock, Doese it come on and then go out ? Does it stay on or not come on at all or does it flash quickly and then flash codes ?

Please see responses next to questions What is the condition of the Battery ? ...I checked the battery monday it was fine according to test machine How is the charging rate of the Alternator ? ....Not sure how to check this The immobilizer Light next to the clock, Doese it come on and then go out ? Does it stay on or not come on at all or does it flash quickly and then flash codes ? ...It does come on and stay on for about 10 seconds or so it does not flash is solid

Guru97FK8 do you have diagnose for me with respect the above responses I provided to your questions?

If engine cranks slowly , below 200 RPM, This is a thresh hold . Below this RPM there will be no spark and the fuel injectors wont work. Check also the battery cables are clean and the battery connections are clean. If the current draw on the main battery to starter is above a sertain poit the engine wont start. It might be a good idea to have a reputable auto electrician to look at your vehicle as he has the knowledge, equipment and experience.

2014 Ford fiesta ambiente with front windows electrical. The driver door window is no longer opening after the rain and was manually closed now when you press button it doesn't open. Does it have its own fuse? If so where is it located? When you press the control button there is no noise to show the control is working so I don't know please help!

Hi guys! I have 1.3 Ford bantam rocam, sometimes when I start it, it just crank but it doesn't want to start. I must keep on several times to start it before it could start

Check the Starter selonoid wiring, It runs right next to the Crank Angle Sensor wiring. Separate the starter selonoid wire from the crank angle sensor wires. When you crank the engine, high voltage and current going to the starter selomoid induces high voltage in the sensor wires(very low voltage) and causes the crank angle signals to get interupted.

bantam 2007 1.6i cranks , sparks then some metal grinding noise like misfiring, then shuts off. is this the ignition module or the starter brushes?

My 2008 rocam , wasn't starting I replaced starter brushers and did minor service, all was good. But after 2 weeks the battery weared off, I replaced the 619 with 628 by advice of sales personnel, but couldn't fit the bracket, but i used it to start then headed to shop, I exchanged to 619 , now its back to old problem of cranking and not starting. Battery and alternator are working but the car only starts in the morning but thereafter cranks, I have to push start it

Check the Starter selonoid wiring, It runs right next to the Crank Angle Sensor wiring. Separate the starter selonoid wire from the crank angle sensor wires. When you crank the engine, high voltage and current going to the starter selomoid induces high voltage in the sensor wires(very low voltage) and causes the crank angle signals to get interupted.

Thank you Guru97FK8 we checked the selonoid wiring but its working fine. The car is doing iyoyo with me. After not using it for a day it became fine for 2 days, but now it has started to trouble me again.

Well it was the starter bought a new one at forma spares everything cool.

My bantam 2004 is not cranking, the right on the clock it stays just on without flashing in codes but when I unplug the battery terminal and plug it then the right starts shoot normal on blinking as if when I will switch on the ignition might crank but not at all, this is the third time on this. Has been a problem now most of times the transceiver has been the one that get condermed, I don't understand if a transceiver is getting hurt every month so what is problem with my car?

This is a problem with your Computer Box. I think you need to send ir to us for repair. We need your computer box, key reader (Transceiver) and key/s. We are based in Pretoria East. Phone/Whatsapp : 0820606425

I have the excact same problem with my bantam 1.6 rocam it starts and idles perfect when cold and has no problem revving up but as soos as its warmed up +-60°c it starts to missfire not revving up its like its not getting fuel so first off I changed the feul pump and there was no good news it was still the excact same then i changed the TPS sensor as my 1.3 had the same problem and it was the TPS but on the 1.6 it didn't fix my problem so then I changed the air control valve and still has the same problem and I thought maybe the feul cut out could maybe be faulty so I unpluged it and temprorarily bridged it out as still the same problem and after that I changed the throttle body still it had the same shit and I'm on the point of making it a fire lighter because its only causing me money and head aches i changed the temp sensor and still the same shit and even after that changed the crank sensor and no bloody good news and I even bought a nother computer box with the full lockset and still the same shit and im so tired and can't think of any other possabilities and on the diagnose machine it doesn't show me any faults so please guys if you have any thing that you think might be useful pleas share it would be very much apreciated

when its warmed up it struggles to start if you crank it 7 times plus it would start and its not timing because I turned it tdc and it was 100% and its only when warmed up it struggles to start missfires and doesnt want to rev up at all but when cold there is no problem at all its perfect and after its warmed up it would idle for -+5 min and just cut of and wont start and I began thinking about the fuel cut out because i did put in a new feul pump but when ever I change the cut out switch or just bridge it with electrical wire i does the same it idles for a few minutes and the just cuts ou and have no fuel witch doesnt make sense because the is no cut out switch and its got a constant electric flow and if i remove the bridge so that it cuts the fuel and switch it on twice and bridge it again it has fuel for a few minutes and just cuts it out

Thank you all for the help, at last my problem looks like solved. The bendix drive was changed and the flywheel turned inside out I guess.