my evo is stock right now . . . need some pointers please 1

What kind of use do you plan for your evo? Is it going to be a street car, or a track car or a drag car? Depending on what you want to do I can point you in the right direction. The basic starter mods for any evo is simple: 1) Boost gauge (don't mess with turbo cars without one! that's playing with fire) 2) 3" turbo back exhaust. (any brand is fine so long as its a full 3" diameter all the way from turbo to tailpipe the only tangible differences between exhaust manufacturers is really sound and weight). 3) Boost controller (Hallman manual boost controllers are cheap and rock solid reliable, there is really no need to have complicated/expensive/less reliable variable boost electronic boost controllers just yet) 4) after all this GET A TUNE!!! The tune is the MOST important part of modifying boosted cars. After doing ANY mods that have an impact on how the airflow behaves or how the fueling behaves in yoru car, a TUNE is required to make the most of it. People assume that bolting on parts makes power just like that. In actualy fact, most of the bolt on parts (like 3" exhaust) don't make much power by themselves, they ENABLE you to make more power by getting the car retuned with increased boost and advanced timing. Most mods are enablers, they allow the limits of the tune to be pushed further and thus allow you to make more power. With the simple mods I've listed above you will pick up between 50-70whp. That should get you to around 270-300whp or 350-370hp at the crank. :-) You don't need and intake yet so don't waste money. The stock intake is good for up to 400whp, anybody you see with an intake and well below 400whp doesn't know what they are doing and is wasting money. After these basic bolt ons, the next step is usually cams but in order to select a set of cams I need to know what your goals is with the car. What sort of power do you want and what shape of power curve? Do you want to aim for huge huge top end power 500+whp? with massive lag (drag racer?) or quick spooling hard hitting torque similar to stock but with more punch (streetcar), or do you want to give up a little bit of spool (full boost around 3500-4300rpm) and go for a wider torque band and increased midrange and topend power (track car?). There is a lot more to this obviously, but that should get you started.

amsperformance.com...don't listen to people on facebook who don't really know forced induction cars. AMS has an evo that is fully weighted with over 1100awhp that runs mid 8's in the quarter mile. enough said.

thanks man this has given me an idea towards the right direction and its gonna be a street car but i was plannin on just hoppin it up a little and just dont want it to be rice thats why i asked for suggestions

1100awhp and it runs 8 sec quarter?im not a drag expert but is that good?

That is a street legal four door car where the illinois license plate is behind the parachute because that's what it needs to stop when its going full bore...

Check out my mods on my profile, ive been pretty happy with it with the exception of meth injection, DO NOT USE IT YOU WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR.... eventually lol like me. on my setup with the right tune you can be making a decent 430 wheel horsepower without puting too much on the motor, remember, stay away from meth and have fun lol

i have a 93 evo and its great tuns of power so far im not shere what is done internaly but what i can see is i have 500 cc injectors i have the stock 16g turbo with the biger front spool and other mods a i put in a stand alone ecu i have a boost controler all the gages u need all defi witch if u want to spent some $ they are great they all have a warning sistam that beeps and u can set all your red lines or low points i have full rally suspention after market intercooler triple plate racing clutch hard to drive but it hooks hard cold air intake i got it tuned by real prows in vancouver bc canada its pushing out 320 to all wheels it could be tuned higher if i used race gas but as i drive long distance i needid to be able to use pump gas so i am going to put in a methinal water injections system that is only 500$ and will bump up my octain to race quality and still use pump gas then i should be almost 400hp but at 320 u dont need to use the e brake to drift just hit the gas and u are in a 4 wheel drift any Q? just ask man hope i could help

u must have got the wrong set up the guys that work on my car have world rec in tuning and they said to get meth as long as u are tuned proper with a stand alone and it is plumed in right u are good

Haha, fully weighted, eh? If by "fully" weighted you are referring to a full interior, then you're an idiot. The AMS Evo is fully gutted and is quite literally, by definition, a race car. The only stock part on the car is, well, probably nothing. Their car has been reworked entirely (at least when it was set up for drag), everything was modified to save weight and provide a stiffer chassis. Not to mention, there are NUMEROUS other tuners out there now that can do what AMS does. Take Buschur Racing, for example. Can you build a block that can hit 7-800whp on PUMP (93) gas? ETS has build 2.0's that rev past 10,000 rpms. Do some research next time, schmuck.

Meth is fine as long as you do it right. Have professionals (or if you have experience) install it and put fail-safes into the ECU, like pulling timing in the event that there's a problem. It's worked on many, many cars. You just need to set it up correctly.

Rami, To start, having seen the car in person, you're an idiot. Had i been referring to a full interior vehicle than common sense would dictate that i would say 'full interior.' Also, referring to the only stock parts of the vehicle being nothing, you obviously have less than no idea what you're talking about. My good friend is the manager of the fabrication shop at AMS, and from his mouth the drag car weighs at least 2950lbs. The only reason the front seat is out is because of the air to water intercooler, which the 25 gallon tank (which weighs in at around 250 lbs.) sits in the space where the passenger front seat is. The block is an off the assembly line 4g63 which has been build to handle the cylinder wall temperatures associated with 1100+ whp. It is always set up for drag...hence 'drag car.' The cool thing about AMS is that they have multiple cars. True story. To continue, the 'entire car' has not been reworked "to save weight and provide a stiffer chassis." The reason the vehicle has a roll cage is to reach safety requirements for attaining those speeds. What other magical things do you think they did to have the WORLD RECORD FOR FASTEST ET and the WORLDS MOST POERFUL EVO? Is that not blunt enough? The reason AMS has these WORLD RECORDS is because they are the best and will remain to stay at the top of the field. Buschur Racing is making almost 200whp less than AMS. Revving past 10,000 rpm has no benefit unless the engines hp/tq curve continues to make power that high. And, for the record, I've built a 640awhp 4g63 in a galant...and yes...it ran on 93. If i were a betting man, id say you don't have the foggiest idea about 'pump gas' because i would use e85 because of its extremely high alcohol content. It has an approximate octane rating of 120. Also, what is a race car by definition? Per dictionary.com, a race car is defined as "a car that competes in races." By DEFINITION, the d-series honda you're probably running 17's in, is a race car. "Do some research next time"...well put. Maybe i should come to you for advise on how to make my car faster.

Jonathan, I'm just a impartial observer, but I must ask whats the deal with all the anger and smack talk? I don't know this "Rami" guy but reading his above posts, he sounds like somebody who has a clue. He didn't say anything completely wrong so why all the hate? The AMS drag car is a dedicated race car stripped and gutted caged and built. Even if it is street legal (unlikely but lets say it is) it is not streetable (meaning it would be a useless to drive it on the street, with its tiny lightweight brakes, massive power, small fuel tanks, poor handling, noise, ride and tires). Also as for the AMS nuthugging you seem to display, you need to relax man. AMS has done great things and is a very capable but they are by no means the "best" or the "most skilled" in the game when it comes to Evos. Have you considered the issue that the Evo was never built to be a drag car in the first place? The reason the Evo costs so much more money than any other DSM is that Mitsubishi put a lot of engineering effort into aluminum suspension. seam welded chassis, extra bracing, aluminum panels, and sophisticated AWD system with limited slip diffs to make the car HANDLE well. The car was meant to be a roadcourse monster not straight line competition for American muscle. Don't get me wrong squeezing 1100awhp out of a 2.0L is impressive, but that has nothing to do with AMS being the best or most knowledgeable Evo shop. To be honest if you want to make a 4G63 go fast in a straight line you are doing it wrong by picking an Evo. A 1st or even a 2nd gen DSM is a better platform for 1/4 mile work. Cheaper, much lighter, and the can be built just as strong as an Evos. That is why there are 6 and 7 second DSMs, but no Evos anywhere near that. I have seen AMS's time attack roadcourse car at the track many times, and while it is a very good car, it is far from the fastest AWD time attack car. There are several other shops with faster AWD time attack evos. Some Japanese shops have cars (example: HKS CT230R, Garage HRS Cyber Evo) so much faster than the AMS time attack car it is literally an embarrassment to our American shops. At Redline Time Attack at Buttonwillow in California HKS shipped their Evo over from Japan, showed up at the track where all the American built Evo's and STI's were trying to beat the course record of 1:48.906. HKS rolled out the CT230R evo and broke the existing course record by a full 5 seconds with a 1:43.523, packed up their car and went back to Japan lol. And the HKS car wasn't even on race slicks. My point here is that there are far more capable shops out there than AMS, especailly when it comes to roadcourse tuning (which is what the Evo is meant to do). It takes a lot more skill, knowledge, and technical expertise to make a car fast around a road course than it does to make it produce 1100hp. As for myself I have a Bachelors and a Masters degree in engineering and I work full time for an engine manufacturer doing combustion and performance R&D. I designed and built my Evo myself without a single AMS part on it, why? Because I can do a better job myself. I find most every aftermarket shop AMS included is long on technicans and short on engineers. There is a lot of trial and error and "lets see what this does" rather than proper CAD modeling, stress and materials analysis on loaded parts and computational fluid dynamics analysis on air handling parts. No shop, even the ones that have an engineer on staff, are going to put the time and effort into careful design that I will for my particular setup. It's just not cost effective to do so. What is my point with all this? Does AMS suck? No, absolutely not. My points is that before jumping blindly to conclusions and calling people out, based on something as abstract and irrelevant as a peak hp number and a 1/4 mile run, think a little. There is ALWAYS somebody more capable out there. There is no reason to nuthug on any one shop for any reason, the automotive scene is full of intelligent and capable individuals and some of us choose not to blindly follow the sheep.

Hey man, If I were you I would start with modifying the exhaust,cold air intake, headers, ecu. Possibly look into sway bars. Brembo drilled disc brakes. Don't get to over zealous with it because the car is already set up pretty damn well.

So you're saying they are not using light-weight versions of panels, removing excess stuff like A/C, Power Doors, Power Windows, and among other extras the car comes with to save weight? Being a nuthugger, I bet you have seen most of their sub 10 second cars. Care to tell me how many of them are completely gutted (a roll-cage, once again, is implied when you talk about a drag car running 8's)? Or are they fully weighted and have all original panels, glass, and the only thing that AMS did was build the engine/engine bay/gut the interior/and get the power to the ground? Really. Also, the WORLDS most powerful Evo is from Greece, unless I am mistaken (AMS Equivelant).

Also Joe, if you have access to Ethanol (E-85), you should consider a conversion to this. I just got my car retuned on E85 and went from 295/290 on 91 to 369/361 on E85 alone, on a somewhat mild tune.

Leave it alone... Mine was fine until I started upgrading it.... Every mechanic/tuner says they can do it..... 3 built motors later..... and still a bad tune (8 years later).... I wish I just left mine alone and only spent on handling mods.

Hi everyone I have a 2008 Evo X. Does anybody know a reason why the BOV is not getting any air or have had this problem happen to them. Car was running fine this morning nd all of a sudden it stopped getting any air to the BOV. When I go nd take off in 1st gear nd there is no power nd the car feels sluggish. Ive checked for leaks in hoses nd found nothing.

10 years ago, I would love to se your evo today