My car was running fine when suddenly it won't start. It has a new battery, so that's now it. It seems like it's in the ignition or something. It's not making a sound when I try to start it, but all o

Are the connections to the battery, starter and fuse box ALL clean and tight?

Yes

It's either going to be the starter, the battery or a loose connection.

its not the batter we just bought it on wednesday theres a noise when we try to start it kind of like a humming not clicking though

Where is the humming noise coming from?

engine area

Ok then its going to be the connections at the starter or the starter itself.

would that just shut the car off while driving down the road?

No. Why?

thats what happened it shut off while driving and then wouldnt start back up sorry it cut that part off the main question

Oh well now that could be a seized up engine. The timing belt could have broke and cleaned off the valves. Something internal has let loose.

where should we start looking

Take the serpentine belt off and put a very large breaker bar on the bolt of the crank and see if you can get the engine to move at all. If not its seized up.

thank you

For those with ecm issues I think I found the problem - bad diodes especially the one im pointing to with my pencil. I have a direct short across this diode but without remiving it from the board i cant be sure as other electronics could be at fault. Can anyone check their diodes. See photo. I fixed my 2008 vibe by replacing from scrapped $40. put a paperclip into obdii connector and left it for 45 mins then let it idle for an hour to relearn and No more issues and service engine light went out. Now i look at old computer and maybe find issue is with diodes.

My name is kendra and I have a concern about my 2010 Pontiac vibe I just got it and drove it about 2 weeks now and suddenly it wouldn't crank then it did and then after attempts to restart it again I turned the key and it started up like it wouldn't stop cranking up but didn't start up what's going on??

It also has a cold start up

Hi there! Simple ways here to diagnose Read all. I had this issue before (paid $220 for 2009 Vibe) and it was the ECM since my key programmer tool said ECM disconnected" I replaced it then did the Toyota OBDii "Paperclip" trick to mate ot to the vehicle and boom it worked! Didn't need a dealer to program it at all nor did I need my programming tool. Only a Used ECM from scrapyard buddy for $40. Total cost $260 for cat and repair and 2 hours diagnosing & repairing. I had an OBDii code reader and a key programmer but this was the simplest fix ever and applicable to most Toyotas alto newer may be more difficult to use paper clip reset trick. If you try to use a code reader on it and it says ECM or ECU "Disconnected' or No codes show up whem you disconnect a sensor plug to engine such as TPS then either the fuse to ECM/OBDii Port is blown (usually lighter or interior lights fuse is the same.) If you have a security light flashing then the key Transponder or pickup coil around ignition is causing this issue. Try the Toyota Paperclip trick firstly to reset the ECM, I believe it's pin 4 & 8 but look it up. Please people, let us know what actually fixes your vehicles. We all need to know, to better help the next person so always return here to leave Feedback Plz. Pics of 2014 Sonic Thermostat replacement Issues have nothing to do with this, just shows I'm real. Oops! Almost forgot. You could first try the Starter Relay bypass trick as well. This trick may burn your fingers so use protection and possibly but 40Amp fuse in between Relay contact points so you don't fry things by accidently touching wrong contacts. If this doesnt work attempt to start vehicle in Neutral as safety switch may be defective. Put car in Neutral and rock it in case starter benzoid gear is stuck onto flywheel. Finally I would suspect the Starter Solenoid attached to starter is the primary suspected culprit. Find the small wire, attached to solenoid end and attach another wire to that post and run it to battery being careful to use heavy gauge wire and only quickly touch it to battery positive. The small wire goes to the ignition and it activates the solenoid which firstly pushes the Starter Benzoid gear into the flywheel which is the click you should hear, secondly inside solenoid is brass round disk that moves to touch the two contacts for bigger positive wire from Battery so the Big post is always Live 12V from battery with 600 amps so do be careful. The interior solenoid brass disk also touches other post to the braided short cable to the Starter motor when it's activated by the small wire coming from Ignition of course. This round copper disk contacts both posts and sends full battery power to the Starter motor. The disk inside starter solenoid gets pitted and fails to make contact due to pits, also when water gets in and it freezes preventing disk from moving. (Dont use a car wash in very cold weather... These are the two or 3 scenarios likely. The small wire going to solenoid gets a regulated voltage when you turn the key so it wouldn't be great to use car battery except for fractiin of a second by touching it swiftly but better to use regulated 12V from cigarette lighter, etc. Finally there is braided cable between tnat solenoid post and starter motor. These connections could be broken or rusty and corroded so cleaning them would be helpful but you may break things just trying to remove or tighten the nuts and it's always in a bad location to get at without removal of starter. I've actually rebuilt some older Chevy solenoid just by rwmoving from starter & cleaning the disk with sandpaper as well as to interior Solenoid Posts which disk makes contact to. Clean woth sand paper contact posts and the nuts & connectors attaching those wires. A corroded battery terminal costs you 80% of starting Amps. This is basically the scenario you are facing since you don't even hear a click, even with a boost Starter Relay can be swapped for similar ones for testing whether bad or not. Just pull one out and exchange it for the identical ones from your power module under hood with all the fuses and relays. Check and sand the positive connections from Battery to power module. Run a new wire from Negative side of battery to a nut on the body of the car as well as to a motor bolt. Almost any bolt will work as the ground for All starters as the ground for solenoid and Starter motor is the engine blick when its attached to the engine it's grounded, thus the reason only one large wire directly from Battery is attached. Finally, Yes it could be ignition issue but very doubtful. The Starter Relay bypass trick would tell you if this is the issue. Turn key to run position before trying and if automatic or Manual transmission watch you don't get run over as Starter Relay bypass trick bypasses all safety protocols and should turn the Starter over at very least a click should be heard as solenid activates, otherwise it's the Solenoid or connections to it. At this point your cat may start right up. If you hear a click but motor doesn't turn over it could be ground to motor or fried/jammed starter motor or braided wire as mentioned. I replied to this even though it's an old post it's still important to many others who own Toyota and Vibe (also Toyota) These instructions will.fix Most Toyota starting issues. Begin with easier ones first. Enjoy People. East Coast Canada Rocks!

Corinne you may have a broken timing belt, bad Crankshaft sensor, ECM failure (common on vibes more than actual Tototas) or Main Fuse under hood or a fuel pump issue. People forget about or don't know what Main Fuses are for, what they look like, or how to test if good. Pic is only to show I'm real. Chevy Sonic have Thermostat Sensor issues and replacement of entire housing with sensors and gaskets is cheap solution for $50 aftwrmarket online as well as the Tube/plastic hose breaks 99% of time when removing it so Sonic owners be prepared to change that part as well $25 online $50 At dealer in Canada. We further, went for the cheaper aluminum housing and specified for Dex-Cool, Chevy Coolant. With our recent Canadian winter onset I suggested a 60/40 mixture using deionized or Distilled water and not paying for 50/50 Premix since you are paying extra for distilled water which is cheap. I try to save customers as much money as possible. Mr.Fix-it! Jack of all trades, specialize in automotive, Auto body, cell phone & laptop repairs mostly as a hobby. I make easy money with my hands. Any questions after attempting my suggestions please do contact me at mrrighttype1@gmail.com but try these tricks first to eliminate simple tasks and potential issues.

Thanks for the info

Corinne, even though 5 years ago you posted here, Can you please tell us what that hum was and what eventually fixed your car? My guestimation was firstly, the alternator died/failed, and your new battery died shortly thereafter and the hum was an indication of low power, 2nd, whoever replaced your starter didnt tighten large bolt enough or eventually wire touched or is touching against engine (ground) and is shorting out, 3rd The timing belt lost/stripped a few teeth and crankshaft gear attaching is spinning freely and belt doesnt move the camshaft at all, Interference engines will get damaged and severely so at high RPMs if timing belt let's go highway speeds, and or if these two conditions exist then pistons have hit the valves, bent them and locked the engine up! Further damage can be done by trying to start/turn over the engine so after engine first fails for no reason Stop! Do Not attempt to restart until belts are moving as well as the camshaft, best checked by turning engine backwards since it could be lodged against the pistons from trying to start it should easily back up an inch before rotating engine forward. This will.tell whether something is actually Jamming the engine as water entering the air input to engines will seize it quickly and could do damage as pistons slam water into heads. Remove spark plugs if.you ran through HUGE puddle, got swamped, etc. Not sure (will check internet search on it later) but it appears valves could be damaged in this engine if timing belt breaks, slips, and possibly deduces the reason the engine won't even move or turn over, and produces a hum, if it's not a loose live wire or secondary braided wire is not touching/ grounding/ shorting against side of engine, side of Starter itself from improper position or got loose for same reason, or other metal is shorting a live wire to starter, or alternator died, or perhaps Alternator seized perhaps a Pulley bearing or AC unit siezed or let go and your belt is broken which drained the battery as alternator belt broken battery will only keep cars running for minutes to an hour perhaps if you remove daytime running lights shut off heater and wipers to Not utilize power until out of danger or darkness also could be a bad ground connection to the engine not providing enough negative from battery. Best to not further damage engine by starting an engine that suddenly quits. Start with oil levels, gas, (fuel pump noise when first turn key to start and periodically while starting) also until Both serpentine and Timing belt condition is determined as broken, or not engaging with crankshaft pulley from.stripped belt & is checked firstly for if this Is indeed an interference engine then likely valves and guides are damaged, easily fixed at machine shop but adds to the cost of repair when a simple belt replacement would have prevented the disassembly and repair to, and/or replace complete head with a good used one from Local scrapyard, Leakdown test can be performed on heads with tappets/rockers loosened so valves are firmly closed you turn head upside down, fill combustion chamber (valve) area with water amd let ot sit for an hour or two or overnight. Any signs of leakage (water loss) leaking past valves will be indicated with firing chambers losing any water, although it would be good to closely inspect areas between valves for hairline cracks which may open up under operating conditions which a $30 Pressure Test would define. The more hard miles an engine has, and lack of maintenance to an engine like oil changes could clog everything with carbon deposits, e.g.. behind piston rings which eventually lose ability to hold high compression and allows oil to pass between rings and compression/ignition to go into lower part of engine causing blow by noticeable if you take oil cap off and oil fumea and smoke blows out of filler cap and dipstick tube while car is running. This will also affect vaccuum pressure and will make ECU to adjust fuel trims by give erroneous readings to sensors. Timing belt repacement is expensive yet may save you hundreds or thousands extra but ouch! dealer Labour prices at Toyota in Canada is $140/hr. People should always change timing belts on time, when specified by reasonably priced and reputable mechanic or shop but big companies generally charge big rates as they must provide Warranty amd thus only quality parts are used by Toyota, which are also over priced in my opinion. Personally I prefer cheap known mechanics about $40/$50 Canadian and mechanics with good organised and good air and general tool selection as he can find things and shorten repair times. Companies and dealers open a book and charge hourly rates by this book so if book says 12 hours Labour to remove and reinstall head, even if it only takes 4 hours you will be charged for 1w hours plus diagnostic costs, OBDii diagnostic costs, parts costs and other Labour and fees associated with testing, repairing or replacong damaged head, new timing belt, pulleys, water pump, oil pump perhaps as some engines oil pump rums on timing belt or chain so replace all those components if not within specs. Further you have to inspect Journals of camshaft to see.of lack of oil pressure has damaged them, since cam journals get damaged first in oil starved engines. This happens for different reasons but also for revving up cold dry engine or not using reassembly Lube when replacing Camshaft or other moving parts including oil pump for if parts are dry a pump will not work and need oil there to create suction. I am a backyard & mobile mechanic seasonal. My rate is $40 but depends on the job difficulty, how technical it is, and how hurt or dirty I'm going to get. I'm too old for laying on cold ground anymore so you may pay extra for that. I'm very reasonable and generally fair. Most people give me more than I ask, they are certainly customers I like! I like people who appreciate me. Addendum I really don't like giving out Free info since info is very valuable. I payed a lot for tools, toils i list and or were stolen lost under cars or when working in bad weather, so my info and all this info im offering for free here will take a repair job away from me or another mechanic in my position as Local Kijiji Mr.Fix-it!/Mechanic /Autobody repair and Macbook repair for 25 years and Now Mobile mechanic 3 years. I pick and choose jobs, prefer a bit of a challenge but Not BMW /Land Rover Newer Jeep with Mercedes engines typical issues with injectors leaking and one injector is $700. X 8 for 8 cylinder engine is 560 plus plus Just for the parts. Good to use high grade fuel & injector cleaner often or have your injectors cleaned professionally every few years or suffer from Hard Start to very hard start but easily starts when starter fluid sprayed into the Intake since lack of pressure from clogged injectors as fuel goes to overflow or bypass route back to fuel tank preventing enough pressure to open injectors thus No fuel eventually to several injectors on startup Once it's running No issues... similarly BMW requires specialty tools and technical repair procedures and Soooo much more work involved just to disassemble their engines. I have to charge everyone fees to offset costs of education, tools, amd years of suffering to get to this point & fixing my mistakes at minimal cost to customers. Sorry it's long winded and irrelevant to particular topic but be proud to own a simple but, in my opinion, one of the greatest car makers is Toyota for cost with reliability. It's the repairs that cost the most so be gentle and maintain them with the varying conditions they suffer to keep you going well. Just use aftermarket parts and cheap Labour for cars without warranty. Heck, we used to turn back clocks for people, and dealers so.thwy get more money or don't have to bring in for maintenance so often and did their own at reduced costs to extend warranty perhaps by double or triple, Only Ford had an issue with odometer being different than computer registered, Oops and darn it! Computer retains odometer reading even after changing it, of course this was Pre-Digital odometer days or we were limited to manual clocks (Old School slang for odometer) Ok I said way too much except that I hope.people are not paying for this particular Advice Services as I don't receive a dime I don't feel y'all should make a middle guy rich on my Free submissions intended to help people who can't afford general help. Sorry Bye! Not sure if I can edit and shorten it later...