Power Seats and Windows Died

There are fuseable links on all cars, they are another form of a fuse. The fusible links are a special kind of wire that also works like a fuseand will burn thru if there is a problem that the circut breakers can't handle. On your vehicle they should be on the staterbattery cable. They look like wires on the big terminal of the starter. Lightly pull on these wires one at a time(they should not strech) if the fuse link is blown the wire will strech like a rubber band. If you find that a fuse link has melted inside be carful you have a big electrical short and maybe you should seek a professianal.

I am having the same problem with my 2005 duramax, were you able to solve your problem? Thanks in advance for any help or advise you may have!

The fuse you are looking for is located in the engine compartment, center left (driver's side). remove the square (approximately 8" by 8") black plastic cover to expose the fuses. The fuse that controls both the windows and the seats is the 50 amp square fuse at top center (top is @ engine side, bottom is @ fender). You will no doubt notice that the fuse element has burned out by looking thru the clear plastic window on the top of the fuse and comparing with the 30 amp fuses to the right of this fuse. If your windows are operating, but your seats are not, your 30 amp rectangular aluminum covered fuse under the instrument console left of the steering column needs to be replaced (remove the fuse block cover by unscrewing the plastic hex bolt in the center of the cover and releasing the plastic overlap catches on either side of the cover). Fuse layout legends are printed on the inside of all fuse box covers.

2005 GMC Sierra 1500. Power Windows just quit working. GMC schematic shows "25A CB LT DOORS" I have 1 door and no circuit breaker mounted on left side door fuse block. The fuse block diagram shows a "25A CB LT DOORS", but it is not there. What gives? GMC factory rep. of no help telling me it is there.

Run 12 vots to motor for second, check motor. I ran bypass wire ti switch 4 years ago, no more problems. Not smart but works!

I have a 04GMCSierra2500 w. elect seat (driver) The Plastic cover on the seat anby which the seat controls go thru need replacing. Anyone know, besides a dealershio, where I can get one of these animals and instructions on installing it?

steverinnm was right. 60amp fusible link was melted.

Hey thanks to u all for the help I'll give it a try then I'll let u all know what I found thanks so much a good place to start your friend Bob

Hi guys I have a 2002 Chevy silverado 2500 HD 4X4 fully loaded. Both front heated and power seats don't work. The 25A circuit breaker in the side of the dash gets hot real quick as soon as I plug it in. The SEO2 fues under the hood is also for the seats. As soon as I put a brand new fuse in the SEO2 spot it blows. I really need some help here. Seats went out when my wife was driving and she is 5'4" so the seat is all the way up. I'm 6'1" so it is very uncomfortable. Please any help would be much appreciated.

I have a 2005 GMC 1500. I had the same problem with my windows. I replaced the rocker type switch in the driver door. I agree that the GMC electrical schematic shows a 25 amp circuit breaker that is non existent for the 2 door truck. The GMC factory does not have the proper schematic and refers you to the dealer-----bogus!

Mikemoran: You may have a shorted power wire supplying the power seats and heaters....likely on the Driver's side. Locate the Driver's side seat and heater power cord harness connector under the Driver's seat, The harness will disappear under the carpet toward the accelerator & brake pedals. It will reappear from under the carpet somewhere by the firewall under the steering wheel. Likely under the carpet near the firewall, the Driver's foot has been pressing this harness against a sharp edge of metal under the carpet and felt padding, cutting into the harness and shorting the power to ground. This would cause your fuse to blow. The fix is to locate & inspect the damage to the harness wires & use electrical tape to re-insulate them from the sharp metal and each other. You can file down the sharp edge on the metal and/or just tape a couple stout pieces of cardboard over the sharp edges to prevent occurrence. (For cardboard, I suggest 3 layers of the 12-pack carton cardboard of that beer you bought to celebrate fixing the problem!). If you don't find the problem on the Driver's side, then check under front passenger's side carpet. Please post back here if this was the problem and/or how you resolved this mystery!

Mikemoran: I agree with Steven on this one 100% Happened with my 01 silverado and like he stated driver side under the carpet. Mine was in line with the parking brake pedal where my heel hits when pressing the brake down and rests while driving. My solution though was cutting all 4 wires (they should be a thicker guage #12 yellow wires) bout half way down where it runs covered in that driver door floor step panel deal, extending the wire and rerouting it with the other cables like its going ip to the dash and then butt splicing again up high under the steering column. If you just want to tap them back together just make sure to just rest rip and tap. You wanna get rid of all the wire that insulation is melted too, feels stiff, or has blackened.

I have a 2003 Z71 Silverado. Both power seats and the right (passenger) side window quit working all of a sudden. Any suggestions ?

Hey guys. Sorry to jump in on this thread a little late. I found the issue to my problem. I had every same symptom that mikeyroman had. I looked under the seat. turns out the 2 plugs for the power seats are identical. the difference is in the details. follow the colors. the black, orange and one other color i cant recall at this time needs to match up with the female end. it was a matter of switching the wires.

I am having trouble with the back door (it doesnt want to open) of my GMC Yukon XL do you hava a solution for this.

We have a 2007 passenger windows and both power seats stopped. We have tried to replace the 60 amp but it blows as soon as we put it in. Any suggestions?

@GuruS33LL did you ever solve the problem? I have the same situation. No damaged cables that I can find so far. The alternator was replaced recently and I'm unsure if the problem is connected. I did replace the 60 amp but removed all the connectors from the left I/P junction box first. Fuse didn't blow at first but did after 20 mins of running the car with all connectors back in place. Interesting all windows and seats were working fine for a while but the window lock didn't work. Not sure if that might be my problem.

ATTENTION: I HAD THE EXACT PROBLEM DESCRIBED ON THE FIRST COMMENT AND THE FOURTH COMMENT BY STEVEN (NOT THE SECOND COMMENT BY STEVE) WAS EXACTLY WHAT I HAD WRONG. Just to reiterate the issue I had was both power seats not working and only the passenger side windows not working. It WAS in fact the 50 amp fuse top center in the engine bay drivers side.

We replaced the fuse with a 60 amp.. that is what the book called for.. it blew .. them I tried a 50 amp and it blew... so I still have the issue.. any other suggestions?

I dont remember if it was on this thread or not but I saw somewhere else that the wiring could be shorting out between the driver seat and the firewall. Apparently the wire has a tendency to get rubber by the drivers foot over time. I replaced my 50A fuse with another and it worked flawlessly, so far, .... its been about a week with no problem yet. Under the driver seat is the module that controls both seats. That module evidently can also shot out by corrosion inside the module. I found a video on you tube that shows how easy it it to get to and clean. Front tow 13 mm bolts on driver seat and the seat will tilt up revealing the module, a few screws opens it up. Pull up on the green circuit board inside CAREFULLY, and the pins will come out of the plug underneath, inspect/clean for corrosion. I didnt need to go that far but that could be the issue.