dead battery new alternator

If your battery is to far low the new alternator will not charge the battery you need to get the battery charged. If it still does it with the battery charged have alternator checked again. I have seen brand new parts be bad. If not charging check for blown alternator fuse before you blame it on the alternator.

Ok I have another question. Is it possible for the starter to affect the charging system. When I start the car it sometimes does a slow start. But it does start. I was told that if I have a lose starter connection it could cause an interruption on the flow of voltage in the charging system. Please tell me if it's true or not

I'm about to check for loose wires when I get up I had to work last night. The part that scary is I have not starting issues. But when I start my car the voltage drops more than 3 volts.yesterday my battery was fully charged and tested . There are no dead cells in the battery. So now I have a question that you may disagree with. When the alternator is sending back the power to the battery what is normal flow of power and what battery pose does it return through

Is it bad to run a wire from the alternator straight to the battery. I have a side post battery so what's the best way to drop test side post with a multimeter.

Good alternator out put should read 14 volts. They do have a tester that you can buy to test battle and alternator

Test battery and alternator out put and you can also take it to most parts stores and they will test it for free.

You can but I would not recommend running a wire to battery.

Also make sure battery wire to alternator is nice and tight.

And plug to alternator

If everything checks out ok with battery and alternator test and all of the wires are nice and tight and vehicle still hesitates to start check starter.

Is it bad to run a wire from the alternator straight to the battery. I have a side post battery so what's the best way to drop test side post with a multimeter.

If you do decide to run a wire from your battery to alternator make sure power is not going to it already. Test with test light. You would be defeating the purpose if there is power going to it .

How would I properly test it with a test light

And which battery terminal would I send it too

To best answer that is to go to a parts store or Walmart and ask for a test light for a vehicle and the instructions should come with how to use. Here is a sample of how to use. Clip test light end to negative post of battery then test by touching the other end of test light end to positive post on battery to make sure it lights up if not check negative ground until it lights up once working touch lighted end to alternator wire it should light up if not no power going to alternator.

Test lights do not cost that much.

What I'm asking is how to test that with the test light . I have two of them lol.

I sure hope you got my last answer before telling you that test lights do not cost that much because I sure do not want to explain it over again on how to use.

But if you did not receive it I will.

Lol i got it after I sent that message lok

Lol sorry for the confusion I'm trying it right now

Okay test positive. It lit like a Christmas tree.

Now i have to find out why it's not returning power to the alternator

I want to thank you all for the answers they have helped alot. The ground to my starter was not grounded good it was lose for some strange reason i took it off and cleaned it not I'm showing from starter ground to alternator 12.5 volts. When i did it before it show 6 or 7 volts between them on the multimeter. I'm still a bit confused at this part tho but now I'm charging 14.1

Vehicle does not need to be running and if test light does not light up after touching positive post and moving ground around check bulb in tester.

If you are charging at 14.1 you are good to go.

By the way your starter is grounded when it's bolted to the vehicle the big wire going to your starter solenoid is from the battery and the small wire is the ignition wire. Just so you know.

Ok cool so it is possible for the starter grounds to cause high résistance if they are not secure properly or corroded?

I do not think you understand me when the starter is installed on the vehicle it is automatically grounded.

Now if your starter bolts were loose you would have had a bad ground.

Ok I found the problem had to get dirty. And it's hot as heck outside. The wire from the alternator eventually leads to the positive battery terminal right. So i traced the voltage with the car running you can't trace it with the car off. Smart me. So that wire leads to somewhere beneath the engine. So I can't find the exact point of resistance in the wiring but I definitely am about to try. But yeah that's my issue about to work on it and I will return with more news once again you guys that's alot

I thought you said it was charging at 14.1 that is what it's supposed to be changing at.

Yeahbi did say that it was a false reading. The voltmeter i was using was cheap when I use the multimeter i just got it shows 11.3 when runningand drops 1/10 of a volt ever 7 secong. So i took the multimeter and tested the wiring coming from the b+ terminal on the alternator and started following it. IIt's shows 14.1 to 14.3 until I start goes under the engine and I had to stop. So then I followed from the + battery post as far down as I could reach and it's showing 11.5 and dropping. So that means the break is somewhere between it. My bro blemishes is I can reach to see where the shortage is

Ok guys I traced the wires. The positive battery wire goes straight to the stater and alternator wire in the harness also leads to the starter I looked at the starter and touch it. The bolted in peace wiggles. The bolt nut wires all wiggle losely. The starter is in tact. But that one bolt that the wires connect to is wiggling. I'm almost sure that should not happen am I right please answer lol? I know I have asked a lot today but I need my car back lol

I believe you got it bro. Should be no lose wires going to any connection.

It's mot the solenoid bolt but the other one that the battery connects to it wiggles like it's broken internally. Problem is I would think that it would cause a starter issue but my car starts everytime when it has a good charge. But it's not charging. It looks like my alternator wire and positive battery wire rendezvous there. With the post wiggling it would seem to mee that the started is doomed to malfunction.

Okay so from start to finish please read. I connect my multimeter to the battery terminals I get a reading of 12.3. When i turn the key to the on position it drops to 11.4 or 11.3 when. Turn the key the voltage drops to 8.5 but still starts the car. While idling the car reads 11.6 and dropping slowly but surely. I cleaned the battery connections but no change. I check the starter connections and the bolt where the positive battery wire connects is wiggling I proceed to tighten all parts of the starter . and that bolt just comes out of the starter. (Lost) I push it back in and it does just what it was doing before I came out. It just wiggled. So i put everything back on the car like it was before. So today my battery reads 12.05 after it sat unplugged all night .turn the key voltage drops to 10.5 then it goes down to 9.8 and holds. So i turn off the automatic lights and it goes back u to 10.75 and holds then I turn the keep to starts and I get the dead battery sound and the volt meter and multimeter both drop to dead voltage. Lowest reading was a 6.3. .2. .1 hold. Now I need to recharge my battery and see if my starter is broken but before the dead battery sound it did try to start the car. So that means my starter should be ok and my battery may have just been to week to get running today. As for my alternator I ran a wire from the alternator to the starter this wire is caring the the the same voltage as the battery with the car off. Once I get it to start I will record what happens.

Also my negative side battery drop test reads 1.56 draw on the battery. Between cable and and terminal post. I was told that 50mv is the maximum draw I should receive. Could this affect the charging system. Could a fuse be cause my issues

Your are getting a negative drop because the starter bolt that you said you just pushed back in but is still wiggling that bolt needs to be tight I am sure that is what is causing your problem because if you Are not getting a good ground it will also effect the positive readings. Like I said in some of my first answers the starter is grounded when it is bolted to the vehicle and if you have a lose bolt to starter you are not getting a good ground.

Got it working and tight charging 14.1 strong thanks guys I'm back in business for real this time

Was it that loose bolt on the starter?

Yes it was the lose bolt. The alternator was sending power through the starter back to the battery. But with the bolt lose the power wasn't getting back. I put the bolt that fell out back in the starter and It lock in but still wiggle. Since I knew the starter was good I ran a wire from the alternator to that same bolt on the starter and my baby is ready to ride. No malfunction showing on the car no warning lights on all power working and no drain in voltage from the battery when the car is off. Is there a way I can send pictures or video es to show you guys this

You can send pics though this fourum. That is not the way I would have fixed it I would have gotten a little longer starter bolt and see if there was enough treads left in hole and cut down bolt if needed or add washers to the bolt if it was to long but if that is working for you great.

Yeah i said that to myself I figured not some would not use this method but it's definitely working just cam back from a drive across town and around the city. I'm so happy to have my car back

This is interesting been stumped with 2 new alternator new battery , coil ,ignition module ..still killing battery