Dead Battery

the date of your battery is on the top of the battery on "knock-out" dates...batteries degrade 10% per year..that is to say it's ability to accept a charge degrades 10% per year (according to one expert)~

Cleaned all the battery connections, so that is not an issue. How do you check the alternator output with the volt meter? Thank you.

get a new battery....you need one every five years these days...they aren't made from poisonous lead anymore, but a Tin/Antimony alloy~

I'd take it to a shop that can test your charging system properly. They can test the Battery, Alternator, Alternator Diodes and Voltage draw very quickly and accurately. The best alternative to a diagnosis is to throw money at it until you either fix it or go broke.

boneyard unit=$25....there are ways to go cheap...if this is your beater car~

It is the accessory relay (NOT the accessory delay relay). On the 2004 Ford Escape, it is to the right of the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's side seat. I bought Standard V13081 RY612. It cost me $15.61 with tax. It's been three days and all is well so far.

2.5 amp draw. after market seat heater's not on ignition circuit and can be left on.

Check your rear wiper motor. That's where my drain was coming from. I have a 2011 Ford Escape

I have almost same problem.. Check battery voltage is above 12vdc.when it is running voltage should be 13.4-to-14.5 v never higher than 14.5v. If it is higher than that 14.5 with a load on it, lights, heater motor, defroster ect.. Then the battery is bad if above 14.5v And alternator should be OK but for a diode test see utube.. You can see if there is a draw on it with a millimeter. Turn off car. Disconnect positive lead and place meter between battery post and lead. You should see a voltage draw.. If there is one go fish to try and track it down.. I am going nuts with my escape battery drain issue..

Ok sorry. First I would put the fuse back in if it is not blown.. Check voltage at battery is above 12 VDC. jumper cables on it and verify it's charging with meter. 13+ vdc this will assure you have a good connection with the jumper cables.. Let it sit charging for 2,3,4 minutes or so. Then try start it up with jump on. If it starts remove jumpers. Car should stay on check alternator output at that point. Good luck..

Any parts store can do a battery test for you for free.. Check battery with hydrometer to see if all cells are charged and good. Then they should do a load test on it. The last test is to see if the battery can resist a charge. That's where the 15 volts is all about if it goes above 14.5 it probably lost its ability to resist a charge..these tests will rule out the battery being the issue..