have a charging problem.

Is Your battery being charged at idle at around 14 volts? If not You might wanna check Your wiring between the battery and the alternator and also Your dashboard light. The battery positive and the power from the alternator will form two positives and only this will make the light go off. It seems to me You might have a broken wire between the alternator and the light,or perhaps a poor connection in the wiring circuit.

One crazy solution for charging problem has been to disconnect the radio of all things but it worked! Simple enough to try. Good luck

Here are a few things to check for: check the electrical connector on the alternator (the pig tail) to make sure the leads are not shorting together. Check the # 26 fuse in the fuse box in the engine compartment, making sure there is one there and that it is not blown. I had the same issue. I replace the voltage regulator in the alternator and that didn't fix it, I then replaced the alternator and that still didn't resolve the issue, I checked the pigtail and found no short. I then starting examining the fuses and noticed that the # 26 fuse was missing, I installed the fuse and that resolved my check charging system light issue.

alternator good battery not charging all they have views that will stop it and if so where is it located in the control panel box

yes it was fuse #26

There is no #26 fuse. Where is it located? I just found 20, 30, 40, 50, even 15, 10 and 5 but no 26.

Fuse #26 is in the main power box under the hood near the front of the engine compartment. The numbers you mention are the FUSE RATINGS, i.e. 10amp, 20amp, etc. Remove the cover to the power box and look on the underneath side for fuse # locations.

I am having this exact problem, but the #26 fuse is fine. Was initially having a battery problem, got a new battery, it was the wrong battery, but thought we'd try and cut ut. Like a moron, we hooked it up back wards, for about a second. That's when the check charging system light came on once the correct battery was installed. Changed the alternator, still on. Checked the fuse and the fuse is fine. We put a multimeter to the fuse box while the car was off, nothing coming up, but we are getting some voltage from the constant control relay module. No auto stores seem to carry it, not even sure if that is the problem. Anybody have any ideas? I'm not a mechanic, not even close, about ready to push this thing off a cliff.

*fit it, (not cut it) in regards to the wrong battery

i have a ford taurus and the battery was replaced 2 weeks ago, the car will not crank. the Ford dealership say it has a eltrical shortage and not enough volts are getting to the starter. how much does it cost to get fixed?

2001 ford taurus. not charging 2 alternators 2 batteries and an alternator plug still not charging ended up being the mega fuse 175 amp 4 dollars at Autozone

I have an 02 Ford taurus. Same issue. Changed the alternator twice and the battery. Replaced the mega fuse. And checked #26 fuse it was fine. My car still won't stay running as soon as I take the jumper cables off or remove one of the terminals it dies.

I’m having the same problem on a Taurus jessepowell683. Have u figured it out yet?

I have checked all these problems in my 2004 ford taurus and I have replaced the alternator, the battery, the fusible link, the wiring to the alternator and batter, the pigtails for the wiring circuit, the fuse box panels, the radio, and I CANNOT, figure out what to do.

If your battery light is on, and it's not the alternator or the battery, Then you will have to go through these steps. It's either a break in an orange/blue wire coming from the connector that connects to the alternator regulator, which runs to the ECM, or you need a new ECM. Mine was the ECM. Good Luck!

Same problem here on my 1999 Taurus. I replaced the battery and the alternator. The car would only start with a jump, then the alternator voltage was only 12v instead of the 13.5 to 14 it should be. SOLUTION: There are two cables on the negative battery terminal. One goes to the motor (block) and the other goes to the car body (fender). The one going to the fender was broken inside of the insulation (couldn't see it), and read good with a meter (continuity). Replaced that black wire and everything works as it should.