my entire truck has power, the radio works thelights,ect ,ect) the starter wont begin to turn over and it wont start

Sounds like your starter solenoid. When the starter or starter solenoid goes, you can have all the power in the world attached to it, and it won't send power to the starter to crank the engine. I would take the starter off and replace it.

i think its your solenoid too. possibly flat spot in starter? heres a fairly esay wayto see if its your solenoid .find an old screwdriver and lay it over the two big posts on your solenoid if your truck turns over then just replace the solenoid it is bad

before you buy that starter try one more thing.bypass the regulator mounted on the fender. You can do this with a pair of jumper cables. hook one lead to the positive side of the battery and then touch the other end of the same lead to the side of the regulator that supplies the starter if it cranks your starter is ok and it's you regulator that is the bad component. Be sure the vehicle is in neutral.

It is your Starter not doubt you need to go get it rebuilt.

Mine does the something and I've replaced the starter ran new hot wire new cylinoid and still won't turn over any ideas

unlock the doors, put the keys in the ignition, put the car on the street with a big sign in the back window that reads Take this Ford and Shove it, it wont work for me anymore, only 20bucks as I cant afford to give you anymore. Nick a nevermore ford owner

The problem is in the steering column. Remove the ignition starter switch. There is a little stem that sticks out on top.push this all the way forward with ignition on and trick should crank and start.

no one has spoke about the inter lock system the battery and starter are good and I can remove the starter relay and jump the starter work fine the truck cables were cleaned with the driver door open after that the truck will not crank

the next time you disconnect the battery you need to plug a 9 volt system into the cig lighter in order to keep memory in the ecm

Come on people, what's the 1st thing to check,,,(the fuse) Chances are you have a blown fuse. That's what fixed mine.

which fuse Guru?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgHVJrncMC0

So I have a Mazda pickup 94 replaced my starter to get into the shop to see what was wrong with it and they said I'm not getting power to my starter battery works lights work radio works blinkers work all lights work just not holding the charge in the starter what could be the issue

i can turn the ignition on but it won't start the truck. i hooked a starter button on it it worked for a little bit but now it won't do nothing click or anything and still has power going to everything. any suggestions would be appreciated I'm just a shade tree mechanic and can't afford a shop fee.

first, yall need to get something right before posting it.not cranking means the starter motor is not spinning the engine over,so that would mean a no crank no start condition!. if the starter motor is spinning the engine over and not starting the engine,then that means a crank no start condition! that is the first step,and there are different testing procedures for each one!!!

thanks for that worthless info Mark.......folks....change those fuel filters, check your fuel pump and or see if your inertia switch has tripped

fuel filter,fuel pump and inertia switch has nothing to do with a NO crank,NO start condition!

That's funny............I have had 6 Rangers and from the description of the problem that is exactly what it sounds like........your answer was no answer at all.........just a bunch of rhetoric

again,the difference(some think/say not cranking means not starting which is false) cranking and starting are two different things,period! here,one more time>>(.not cranking means the starter motor is not spinning the engine over,so that would mean a no crank no start condition!. if the starter motor is spinning the engine over and not starting the engine,then that means a crank no start condition),you savvy? what is the problem with your truck anyways?

Would it be the key? I'm experiencing this, and my key looks like its shot.

you are experiencing what? need the year,make,model,engine size of your vehicle and exactly what is happening with it.

Please help. Same problem here! I have a 4c 2.3l 93 ranger with a 96 mazda engine. New battery, new starter. A month later and I'm getting this NO CRANK, NO START issue. First turn of key i get a chirp like sound and spark at the positive battery terminal, then nothing like a fuse has blown. which cuts off power to everything including my alarm system which goes into kill switch mode. So when I try to jump the car from another car and the battery comes to life all the lights are flashing so I need to hit the valet button. when i try to start it again this situation repeats. Is there some kind of fuse or relay that blows and resets itself after a few minutes? When I turn the key I do not get the typical clicking sound that tells you the alternator is bad so my guess is the problem is upstream from the alternator. Possible electrical or ground issue? Could it be the alternator. What about the fender mounted regulator mentioned earlier in the thread? (from other reading i gathered that these rangers had a fender mounted solenoid but the last two starters I've bought had solenoids on them. Thanks!

it's the exact same engine for 93 ranger and 96 mazda and yes it has the fender or firewall mounted solenoid/relay. google Part # F492 for a picture of it. it's actually called a Starter Relay,but most call it a starter solenoid(and yes you have a starter mounted solenoid also). if the truck cranks and starts when jump starting,it's a power problem,not a fuse(if a fuse blows,it can't be reset and must be replaced).if your battery has a full charge on it (12.6 VDC),then it's not the alternator. the battery is for cranking the engine,then the alternator takes over supplying voltage where needed and maintaining the charge to the battery. if you get a spark at the positive battery terminal when trying to crank the engine,then suspect a bad/corroded/loose battery cable terminal. just went through this on a 98 ranger with someone trying to fix his problem over the phone and he said battery replaced,starter replaced,voltage good where it should be on starter and ignition switch wire (small wire on starter,his has no fender mounted relay/solenoid),but what he failed to tell me was it would crank and start if jump started. all it was,he finally replaced both battery cable ends (pos and neg terminals that hook to the battery) cranked and started,no problems since. check/clean/tighten them or replace them,if you have any questions,reply back.

Had this same issue a couple years ago. All the things came on in the cab but got nothing when I turned the ignition over. Roommate I was living with hops in my cab, gives the gear shift a little wiggle and starts it up just fine. He had no idea why that worked, just a thing he was shown one time. Over the last couple years its happened a few more times and a little wiggle of the gear shift got it to start up just fine. Couple days ago it happened again only this time it didnt start right up like it did before, took a few attempts. Today while in the car wash that little trick didnt work at all. Mighta been getting a little frustated with it and wiggled it a bit too much cause I can no longer put it in park. Just falls down to reverse when I try. Manage to get it started by having it in neutral. After the car wash headed back to the laundromat and found a screw by my feet. Cant see where it came out of so im thinking it musta fell out somewhere inside the steerling column. Looking at the threads of it it looks like it could of been half unscrewed for awhile (though cant say for sure). Moral of the story that screw could be a clue as to why these people and me are having this problem. I really dont know though. Changing oil is about the depth of my mechanical knoweledge.

Yeah! see the video link below,copy and paste the link. Don't know what kind of vehicle you have(not in Topic),but this video is a Ford Ranger,same as F150 and many more vehicles? This shift interlock solenoid works together with your brake light switch and the neutral safety switch if A/T. If your brake lights are working,it's more than likely the shift interlock solenoid in the column,either it's bad or the screws have came out or loose! If you need one and can wait,order it from Rockauto.com for the best price,lots cheaper than local ripoff parts stores for the same exact part! Like half the price! you pay a small shipping charge and they don't charge sales tax at Rockauto.com! good luck,post findings.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWQSgqpTiaY

Found wire from battery to fire wall

what is your question?

I have a 98 ford ranger 2.5 2x2 .. Everything works in side and out but when I get to start it nothing and when I release the key from trying to start it lights come on in the dash . radio, lights , work but trying ti start it nothing.

what happens when you try and jump start it from another vehicle,does it crank and start? Although the lights,horn,radio are working doesn't mean the battery isn't to weak/discharged to crank the starter motor to crank the engine over to start it,test or have the battery tested,parts stores will check it free of charge. There are a couple more things to test like ignition switch signal,fender mounted solenoid,but try above first,then we will move to next test if nothing found,post findings.

I know this is for cars.... but, I have a quad with the same issue.... no crank, no start.... battery has 12 volts, new starter relay, new starter.... I can jump the starter relay so I ordered a new relay and still the same thing with the new relay..... any ideas?

What is the year,make,model,engine size? That info would help although if you turn the key on and jump across the 2 large terminals and it cranks and starts,then it sounds like you are not getting signal/voltage to the small wire on the relay you just bought(if this is a Ford Truck with the relay/solenoid mounted under the hood). have a helper turn the key to the cranking position while you check the small wire on that relay/solenoid with a volt meter for signal/voltage.post results.

I don't know if this helps, but...My 98 Ranger intermittently would refuse to crank. Battery was fully charged, horn worked, also headlights; the odd thing was that the clock and radio would not turn off; well, I could turn the radio off, but the clock was always on. Oh, and the dome light would not turn on when I got in the car. Trouble was that after I tried dozens of times over several days, suddenly everything would go to working properly--radio behaving, dome light, car starting with a roar. This happened over and over. I took it to my mechanic; he checked this and that--I couldn't follow all he tried--and was still puzzled; then he took the radio out, though left it still powered; and on impulse he "thumped" it. The radio turned off--and now the truck started! He claims it makes sense; some interface there. As of this hour, the radio is disconnected, and the car starts; I will need several days of this to be convinced; then I'll be searching junk yards for a radio. If anyone can explain this to a non-mechanic, I'd appreciate it!

I had this problem with a 2002 4 lite A/T Ranger... everything electrical worked, but the starter did not make a sound or crank. The problem turned out to be the passive security transceiver that reads the chip in the ignition key when you insert the key. It was replaced and the problem was cured.

Yes the PATS theft system (Passive Anti-Theft System) on these Fords (around 97-03 years),F150,Rangers,Explorers,Expedition,etc have a problem sometimes with the theft ring breaking and not receiving the signal from the PATS key. If you do have this system,then your key will be a thick black key with no battery inside the key(not serviceable),and also there will be a red theft light that blinks every 2 seconds (this is normal) on the instrument panel unless it's running,then it does not blink.Most of the time if there is a problem with this Theft System,the red theft light will either stay on solid or blink rapidly when the key is turned on and it won't crank/start (starter disabled) until the problem is corrected (never try and bypass it)! I have a 2000 F150 with this PATS System....

I have a 2003 ranger. Just got a new tranny and it won't fully insert itself into the engine so i can tighten the bell bolts.. What could be stopping/holding it up. Yes its lined up right I have a tranny jack.

My ranger will start if I have the key turned in the truck and cross out the solenoid. What is my issue? I have replaced the solenoid and the ignition switch.

What Year is your Ranger? You replaced the solenoid on the starter or the one under the under hood mounted solenoid? You said that you replaced the Ignition Switch?The ignition switch is the electrical part of the switch. Did you replace the ignition switch (electrical part mounted on the bottom of steering column) or do you mean that you replaced the key cylinder switch (mechanical part)?

It's a 1992. I replaced the solenoid that is mounted to the fender. That is what I use to cross out and start the vehicle currently. I replaced the ignition switch that is by the floor board area which is electrical not mechanical. I have not replaced the key ignition that is mechanical.

Sounds like you're not getting signal/voltage to the starter mounted solenoid (the small wire) from the fender mounted solenoid. Have a helper turn the key to cranking position while you check for battery voltage on the small wire on the fender solenoid to the starter mounted solenoid.

I have a 1996 for mustang. When I turn my key on the dash lights, radio , dash gauges and ect come on. But when I turn my key further to crank it nothing happens and my lights, radio ect go off like there's no power. It doesn't turn over. No crank no start. I have replaced my starter switch from the inside of my steering colomn. Not the ignition keys. I had my starter checked and it's fine.

What happens when you try and jump start it from another vehicle?

99 Ranger 3.0 auto. When I connect the battery the horn starts blowing and the ABS relay starts clicking, no crank/no start.

My experience everything work but would not start, wouldnt jump start push start... a/c unit was bad belts lock up. Everything lock down cause the a/c unit was bad

when you have full battery power and the starter motor won't crank the engine over,remove the drive belt(s) and try to crank it,either manually or with the switch. if the engine cranks and starts then more than likely you have a pulley locked up! Turn all pulleys by hand to find the seized pulley and replace it.

I have a 96 ford ranger 4x4 and I went to start it, all my lights and everything worked. But I got no crank or anything. I went to try and jump it with a friend but still nothing. I went under the truck and banged on the starter while my fiancé try to start it, still nothing. Before I get it towed to shop. Anything I should try?

does the truck have a fender or under hood mounted starter solenoid? does it also have a starter mounted solenoid? do you have a volt meter or test light? automatic or manual?

My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 dies the same thing, I have a new battery, alternator is good but truck won't turn over

how do you know that the battery,alternator,and the starter is good and the external mounted solenoid? Has the ignition switch signal wire (small wire going to solenoid) been tested (electrical part on bottom of steering column,not the key switch part)? What were the test results? You said Truck won't turn over? When you try and crank the engine over with the key switch,what happens? Engine cranks over but it won't start or when you turn the key and try to crank the engine over,nothing happens? Battery cables/terminals clean/tight/free of corrosion including GROUNDS?

Just bought a 2004 ranger 2.5d xlt crew cab battery charged all good on test imobiser light goes out turn key no click or turn over ?? Seller denys all knollage or this problem its manualnot automatic... help please !!!

what happens when you try and jump start it from another vehicle with jumper cables?

no different with jump from car !!!

red theft light should blink every 2 seconds when truck is off,then when you turn the key to on,not start the theft light will stay on solid for 3 seconds and then the theft light goes off,truck should start.In 2004,The Ranger didn't offer a 2.5L engine,it's probably a 2.3L,also are you getting signal/voltage from the ignition switch (electrical part) to the starter solenoid, small wire while turning the key to the start position ,you will need a helper to turn the key to start position while you test it with a volt meter.

I have a 1994 ford ranger 4 cylinder manual truck with starter solenoid under the hood. Changed the solenoid three times and the starter twice and bought new battery. It wont start the lights work but nothing happens after u turn the key. I was driving it and it cutt off on my while driving and wont start since and wont start with a jump

not enough info. when you turn the key to the starting position,does the starter motor crank the engine over? will the truck start by rolling it off and popping the clutch out? have you tested the small wire going to the starter solenoid with a volt meter while a helper turns the key to the starting position to see if you're getting signal/voltage?

Ignition switch in the dash on the column is what mine was

yes,the ignition switch (electrical part) is located near the bottom of the steering column (NOT the ignition key lock cylinder (mechanical part) and that is where that small wire going to the solenoid comes from. Google LS503 for a picture! good luck. Best just to replace the switch if testing reveals that's the problem,less than $25.00 at local parts store

Need help! I have a 2004 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. New battery. The scenario is that I was able to start and drive to the supermarket done the shopping then no crank no click no start. I called AAA towed the truck home. Then, later I could start the engine. Today, I was able to start drove around then park the truck and no crank no click no start. Any suggestion?

Check your battery terminal connections,look for corrosion between battery terminals and battery post after removing the battery cables,clean very well,make em look like new and shiny.Corrosion may also be inside cables,cable ends may be loose,broken,corroded,not making a good connection.This is only one thing to check,there are several more reasons. Post results!

The plastic part of the key pretty much disintegrated in my hand when I pulled it out. Now starter won’t turn over, although everything else on the dash works, got 12.6 volts and clean battery terminals. Held the remains close to the switch, no bueno! No spare key!

I have a ford ranger 2007 tdci 2.5 and wont start. Only start if i warm the ecu with a hairdryer! Ihave change battery and diesel filter!also i removed all the plugs and i clean!But still wont start!Can someone help me please???

I have a 94 b2300 and it cranks but no start. Has power everywhere and will start up no problem 75% of the time recently changed both terminals and issue went away for a short period. Now the problem is back and more consistent starting only maybe 50% of the time. Any suggestions please help!!

Had the same problem. Checked everything. No problem. Sometimes it shut down while just driving or on a ruff road. It would start only when I came to a full stop. I thought I checked everything. Turns out by accident with the help of a friend we found that a little wire coming off the battery terminal was making a bad connection causing it to cut off. Cleaned both ends,tightened it and never had the problem again. 11/25/20

My Nephew had bout the same problem 2 years ago in his Ford Ranger although he is in College at NC State in Raleigh NC and I am 20 miles West of Charlotte NC so we had to guess at it over the Phone. We finally came up with *just for kicks*, replace the Battery Terminals and during replacement of the Terminals he saw the problem, both Terminals were cracked/busted/junk, replaced both Battery Terminals,,,, NO Problems since all is good! good luck!

Before all else, check the ground wire to the starter. It is exposed to the elements and can tend to get corroded. Just ratchet off the not/bolt holding it down to the starter, wire brush the whole thing including the mount on the starter, and try it.

I asked this question because my Ford Ranger would not crank. I have manual transmission so after reading the thread where the person wiggled the gear shifter, I thought I would try to start mine while in gear. I normally start in neutral with the clutch disengaged. When I put it in gear with the clutch depressed, it started right up. Later I tried it in neutral with the clutch depressed and it started right up. I know there should be an interlock preventing cranking if the vehicle is in gear and the clutch is not depressed but dont quite understand while it stopped cranking while in neutral with clutch not depressed.