Car starts and it shuts off/loses power

Did the replace the Mass airflow sensor? How about the idle air controller?

I have no idea.. I will call and ask them... this was 2, 3 years ago. But those could be the issue?? Also, I I have no check engine light on. Thanks, Rez

sounds like evap canister valves went bad

could be lot of different thing though: high press fuel pump, water in the gas ( ethanol absorbs water ), airflow sensor, idle air control valve, evap vent valve stuck open, fuel press reg

you my friend most likely have a vacuum issue. \n check out these few options 1. loose or faulty electrical connections at, Distributor, coil or alternator. 2. Insufficent Fuel reaching the fuel injectors. vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and throtal body. 4. intake air leaks, broken vacuum lines. 5. Contaminated fuel. I have the haynes book and it lists off most comman issues and that is what it reads try that out and see if you can find an issue. my 1998 audi stalls in high heat where its ran for some time then left to bake in the sun normaly i jsut have to shut the key back turn it on which my foot to the floor on the gas peddle till it starts and it ussaly runs fine after that.

Guys, thanks for all the input. Now, I am making a list of the potential issues that you guys mentioned, and i am going to my local mechanic and ask him if he could pinpoint which one needs fixing... is this a good approach? Obviously I can not replace/fix all those parts, $$$$. Any other way to approach this without breaking the bank?

well what you can do is get hte garage to check the fuel lines pressure its really not to expensive, checking hte vacum lines is easy enough if you remove the engine cover, and if you can get the engine running all you gota do is spray the lines with soapy water and find the bubling ones and replace as you go. if you got a telescoping camera you can use the same spray soap with the throtal body its located normaly at the back of the engine under the main vacum lines. and as for checking the fuel just try changing the fuel filter it is most likely cloged if you have not changed it in over a year or so and use a volt meter on the coil pack or just pull a plug put it next to some metal at the tip and give a quick crank this is best checked in the dark

Hey Deathjam4, i am having the exact same problem as yours with my A4 B5 1999.5

Car starts fine and runs god normally when it is not too hot and the ac is not running. Days when it is hot and i have driven for a bit, then leave the car out in the sun and then drive for a bit, the engine just stalls. To get it started, i have to push the gas peddle a few times and it starts with the turn of a key. What did you do to fix that? It is not the best thing to happen when driving around a lot of traffic, and embarassing at the same time!! Also, FYI I have recently started noticing some starting troubles with my audi, i have to turn the key for a longer duration to start the engine. Sounds like it wants to start, but is not getting the right amount of fuel it needs. Could it be the fuel pump in my case?

Your describing a temperature sensor issue. I had this happening with mine where the car runs fine before i park it in the sun then have to put my foot to the floor to start it after its sat a bit. There is a throttle body temperature sensor mounted in the top od the intake Replace it with a dealer part its about 100$ and it will solve your problem. Also clean your MAF Mass airflow Sensor while your down there. Sending 2 pics so you know what to look for

Thanks Deathjam4. I somehow felt the issue was more related to the fuel pump as I can feel the engine starving during hot weather. With everything in mind, I will take time out this weekend to figure out if this solves my issue and post back. Cheers

yea hot weather and the fuel pump wouldn't be a problem Provided your tank is more then 1/4 full or more at all times. The gasoline keeps your fuel pump cold and working at optimal heat levels. So if your pump is going you will hear it sputter and making grinding noises while it trys to work which in turn means its either got crap in it or it is just simply waring out. And Np hope it fixes the issue for you it did with mine on cold and warm starts.

Cant see the second pic you added. I have now got to the point where the sensor connectors but what next? Can please upload

Found the sensor after opening the screw holding it in. The issue I now have is that the sensor is not immediately available from any of my local stores and they say will need to be sourced from Bosch (and can take upto a month...haha stores here dont keep these handy). So as a workaround and while this is done, I got the sensor out and gave it a good clean with some kerosene. After drying it for a few minutes and cleaning with a dry cotton cloth, I have pushed it back in with hopes that is works for me till the new one arrives.

the best place to locate the sensor is at your local vw or audi dealer. You can also find some online auto parts websites that can have a new one to you within a couple days. And cleaning the sensor will defiantly help it.

Ok, so the sensor has now arrived and I replaced it in my car yesterday morning. I hope this has sorted my problems, though I did note that the car took longer to start on one occassion during the day but has been good otherwise. I can live with an occassional starting problem, but just hoping the car does not stall on a hot day. Well, summers have only begun here in Au, so guess itvis going to be tested very soon. Thanks Deathjam4 4 ur advice. Have a good Christmas n a happy new year!!

not a problem feel free to message me if you have any more issues i often check my mail daily so should be able to get back to you in quick order to help trouble shoot. And Merry christmas and a happy new years back at yea hehe

Audi 1996 stalls during traffic stop. It shakes as the RPM drops. Any help please. write me at vprincemike@ gmail.com plz.

that sounds like a fuel issue. Check your cylinders for pressure. also check the vacuum lines there is along one that goes over the drivers side of the engine that tends to break due to the heat and its for idling speed. also check your crank case hoses. they are attached to the head cover. The older model cars tend to get blocked up after long periods of time. Also change your fuel filter if its been well over 2 years.

My 1998 Audi is doing the same. I assume it's something to do with the fuel pump.. My car only starts well in the morning., have to keep my foot on the gas for maybe 30 seconds so engine can stay on but after its starts my car runs well.. To avoid embarrassment from trying to keep starting it yesterday I keep my car running to pump gas and my car turn off on me.

you can't fill your car while its running the gas tank is a vacum while its running and this can cause damage to other parts in your fuel system and engine such as misfires or fouling plugs. And if your car is the 2.8L engine the reason it is stalling is most likely due to a bad or carbon covered throtal body heat sensor which is mounted right in top of the throtal body air pipe. Replace the sensor and clean your maf (mass air flow sensor) and you should be as right as rain.

Hey deathjam4, Im new here and to VWs as well. I bought a 98 Passat 1.8T and the issue I'm having is that with the MAF plugged in the car stalls out every time! it will not stay running. I replaced the MAF with a new one and still same issue. If I unplug the MAF car idles and runs fine it appears. Any thoughts?

well this could be a number of issues my first thought would be the emissions system is not working correctly. Try going under your car and check the charcoal canister and all the lines as well. It was very common for the evap line to rot off in the drivers side wheel well and cause vacuum issues and stalls. also check all the wireing you can find. It would also be a good idea to pull the inner wheel well out where the evap vacum box is in the rear drivers side. I opened mine up one day to replace that line in my audi and found a mouse nest right ontop of that opened filter on it which caused alot of issues.

Thanks Deathjam4, I will take a look this weekend and report back.

I have a Grand Marquis It wouldnt start at all. I was told it was the fuel pump. I just changed the fuel pump and now it starts but wont stay started for more than 15 seconds what else could be wrong?

have them check the fuel filter If a pump goes faulty it could clog the filter up as well. Any other problems would be related to spark or air. Clean all the sensors in the air system such as the MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Also have all the spark plugs changed out for new ones if they have not been changed in over 60,000 km. If they are new check them for carbon build up.

I have a problem with my Toyota corolla 160i 1998. The car starts but won't idle. I had my computer box fixed by an auto electronic,Someone told me that its my computer box and. Because I repaired the box it needs to go in for a reset and that I should take my car in for diagnosis. Should I take the advice and do so?

I'm also having the same problem with my 2001 A4 Quattro. It'll start but then I'll start driving it and it seems like its losing fuel pressure because it just stalls out and then the "brake light failure" sign comes on, then it won't start for a few tries.

Hey my 2001 audi a4 drive good if i keep my foot on the pedal but stalls out when im at a light or at home....mean after driving it then parking my car and leaving it run for about 10 minutes it stalls out. I have change my fuel relay,fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator and spark plugs still at need off help

did you not clean your maf (mass air flow sensor) ? that is the first thing you should a looked to clean. Also check your vacum lines and the crank case hoses. they are the plastic hoses attached to the heads that lead to the thortal body.

No but i unplug it the car run funny the reconnect car run normal....i spray the lines down do not see any leaks either

thats because your not supposed to unplug it... you can seriously screw up an engine doing that. Take it out clean it with maf cleaner. Either remove the sensor from the body or the whole body to clean it and the mesh. and idle issues are commanly air issues with these cars. im attaching a picture so you know what im talking about. The crank case hoses commanly after old age need replacing cause they end up like the picture bellow

Example of a dirty crank case hose ussaly causes stalls and idle issues.

I have a 2003 Audi A6 3.0L and When I start it, It just shuts right back off. The Electronic Immobiliser is flashing I don't know what to do someone please help!!!

Put your key in the igniniton and turn it to power on (do not crank it over) Leave it there for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes turn the key back to power off then try starting it again. This should reinstate your key back to the car. Your only other option is to call a locksmith and have them recode your key. or have vw/audi do it.

Hey Deathjam4. I hope you can help me too. I have 2004 passat check engine light went on, found out it was code p0303 ignition coil in cylinder 3 and had coil replaced. Now it shakes a little when stopped at light. And the past 3 days it has turned off when on reverse at random moments and if it doesnt turn off it stalls when place on drive right after reversing. Even flooring it it takes time to actually drive. If i replace spark plugs will this stop. Or is it something else??

the most likely scenero is once you replace all the plugs the problem should go away. When a coil pack goes its ussaly recomended you do so after replacing it because ussaly this will foul out the plugs that is having the issue. If i were you i would instal the best bosch plugs you can find with the 4 prong sparker they give you the best performance to gas mileage out of all them.

Hi Deathjam4, For the last week, I have an Audi A4 and it seems like my car wants to cunk out. When I first crank it in the morning, I feel the urge to put my car in reverse quickly so it won't stall on me. I took my car to the Audi dealership and they told me that my turbo needs to be repaired for 3000.00 PLUS the thermostat is going bad. Is the anything I can do to avoid this big expense?

well unfortunately if the turbo is in fact going you are expecting a large repair there. Turbos are not cheap even for rebuilt ones. If you can check for play in the bearing it it is in fact loose you might be able to do it yourself or at a garage that specializes in vw's and audis for cheaper. as for the thermostat have you noticed any cooling or heating issues? as in the gauge is siting above or below the 90degree C line ? normally this part is replaced at timing belt changes which at the dealer is another 1400$ for a 2.8 or 1000$ for a 1.8L which is probably what they are quoting you for and if the thermo stat is going bad i would just take the time and effort to replace the timing belt and pulleys and water pump to go with it cause either way its a 8hr job for that repair. a brand new turbo charger for this car is roughly 500$ on rock auto and you can probly do it yourself if you know what your doing. which would save money.

Hi Deathjam4 Am hoping you can help me. I have an Audi a4, 1.8, 2000.....sonetime back it could only rev btwn 2 and 3. Now it cant rev at all.to make matters worse it cant even start, when i force it to start it wud start bt wud vibrate when in its idle state and wud not engage gears..as it goes off even you engage the gear...its been to 3 dealers so far bt none has fixed the problem..they hv changed fuel pump,cleaned air flow srnsor, filters and transmition oil, diagnosis shows everythibg is okay except the oil sensor light (yellow light) bt still no change...what could br yo advice

i would think the first thing they tried is readopting the throttle body. You can do a basic one on your own. Just unplug your battery leave it for about 15 minutes before plugging it back on. Next with the hood open and drivers side door open (not sure if this step is really necessary yet) put in your key and leave it for 3 minutes. You should hear a bunch of wiring and clicking noises from the throttle body. once the 3 minutes are up put hte car to power off close the hood and door and try to start it normaly. This may or may not help but its worth a shot and rebooting the pc should help clear out any old data that could be causing issues as well. But with rpm problems i would either say its a crank sensor, throtle body, or wheel sensor thats gone bad.

Wheel sensor..??

yea if you go take off your wheel or turn it enough you can see behind the wheel there should be a cable that runs down to a sensor that reads the revolutions of your wheel hub assembly for when the axle turns. Picture will show you what your looking for.

Thanks for the advice, i cleanned the throtle and it ws very durty...snf i later found out tht my coil ws dead....noe the car can start bt the problem is tht itd rev count csnt go beyond 3...and sometimes, beyond 2...it also flashing a yellow light sensor for oil....wat can i do

chek the oil and check for oil flow in the heads by removing hte oil cap while its running

All looks cool, what usually causes the vehicle not rev beyond 3

Hey Deathjam4, thanks for your advise. I took my car to a friends mechanic and the thing he recommended was to change my spark plugs to BOSCH brand and to change a coil out. Then he'd do a compression test to checkout the engines health. After doing so, he told me that my engine was in good condition but notice that one of the injectors was having a misfire, so he would fix that as well, So all together my damages came up to $400.00. Do that cost sound about right or did he rip me off? Just wondering... Thanks!

well an injector can run any where from 25-100$ and plugs if he used the best booshc 4 prongs run about 85$ at the store and depending how long he worked on it yea it sounds about right. Fuel rail work can be hard so i would say he did right in my books especially if it works good now. I used nothing but 4 pronged bosch plugs in my audi and never had an issue. if you have any other issues check the crank case hoses the a4's tend to get cloged especially if you don't do regular oil maintenance. See the posts above for those details.

yes Mark...have you seen my challenge above

Hi Deathjam4, I need your help. I have a 98 Audi a4 quattro.. The problem that I have is that when I start my car and I push the gas pedal, adleit

It idle around 2 rpm and the gauge go up and down. Sorry if my description ins

It's not clear. My English it's no that good

Hello Deathjam4, I have a VW Touareg, It has been misfiring randomly on 1,2 and 3. I have changed the coil and coil pack still have the same issue. It ides roughly when I start it and shuts but turns back on immediately, It does that like 6 to 8 times until the engine warms up. Once the engine warms up it runs fine. what do you think? please help

Also recently it was running and I turned on the AC and it shut off

have you bothered to change the spark plugs? and i would restart the computer by unplugging the battery and touching both the cables together. (both connectors off while doing this) leave it for 15 minutes then plug the battery back on. Be sure to replace your spark plugs as well. Most often when a coil pack goes if you do not do it within a certain amount of time it will foul the plugs as well. Quite often the first time the coil goes the plug goes at the same time. So do a proper tune up all plugs, air filter and clean the maf.

saldoja Your issue sounds like a vacuum issue. Check all your crank cases hoses. if they are clogged replace them all including the vapor canister which usually comes with the kits. It is the pictures above. Also clean your MAF and check for a broken vacum hose that threads along the top of the head on the drivers side. The heat of the engine breaks down the rubber tube and turns it to brittle plastic so it often snaps and causes vacum problems for idle. also change to bosch 4 prong plugs. They are expensive but worth every penny.

@ Deathjam4 I did change the spark plugs too. I have disconnected the battery and it ran pretty good but after a day it continues to shut off when I start until the engine warms up. when the engine warms up it runs good. also when I put on the AC it shuts off

check your alternator voltage it sounds like something is sucking up to much power. The same thing started happening with my old audi. The ac pump when it gets old starts putting a large drain on the voltage. replacing the pump would fix that but you have to have the ac drained to do it. You can have any garage that does the ac charges drain it for you then you can install the pump yourself. Its ussaly the clutch that causes the issue tho if you have a bunch of old pulleys they can slow down the revaluations of the engine as well. But check the alternator as well it should at all times be putting out 13.5(idle) - 14.3 volts(driving)

Hey deathjam4, I'm trying to get another input for my car. I have a 2005 Chevy cobalt & two weeks ago it wouldn't crank unless I had a jump. So they said it was the starter we replaced the starter, once we replaced the starter it started cranking and after awhile it would stall to crank by making this clicking sound and sometimes showing on the dash engine power reduce! Is there anything you think it might be

Hi Deathjam4, Please help. A4 2002 B6 non turbo- looses power while driving, accelarator padal goes completely dead, today i must has restarted the car about 100 time just so i can get home.EPC light is also showing. what could be thr problem here?

have the alternator checked as well as the battery littlelady27 its probly where your problem is. At its age the alternator is probably no good any more and the brushes would be worn right out.

have the car scanned and come back with the codes. Find a specialist shop for vw and audi only. some of them will even scan your car for free and tell yea what the issue is.

Excuse me for posting on someone else's question, but it's probably the quickest way to get a hold of.. Deathjam4. I have a 2007 Audi A4 B7 2.0. It's been having some problems staying running lately. The car would run for 1-2 seconds before it seemed like as if it were starving from something. I keep good maintenance of my car and I have a fair understanding of most maintenance issues with my car, but I'm no master. I have a CEL with a P0089 - Fuel Pressure - Performance. The OBD2 I used said that the fuel pressure is at 761 PSI, and the Audi dealer said that 59 bar (855 PSI) is where it should be at. The injectors are clean. The filter is under 5k miles. The LPFP is under 5k miles. The history of the HPFP is unknown. I had my back seat removed so I can hear the LPFP prime and use fuel. When it wouldn't start anymore. The priming sounded so weak that when I crank it, it wouldn't budge. I prime it for 8 or so and it runs a little longer. This morning I cranked the car and it started fine, but still sounded weak. I turned it off and primed it and it's back to business. Is this an LPFP starting to go out?

Ok so i have no idea what you mean by LPFP and HPFP But weak fuel issues would be either related to low vacuum in the emissions system, weak or dieing fuel pump or a bad fuel pressure regulator. Check the fuel pressure before and after the fuel regulator to see if its alright. Some times when the vacuum is weak in the tank it can cause this. In most modal of audis They have charcoal canisters in under the car in the donut hole. Check all the vacum lines for breaks the lines will go all the way from the back of the car to the front with an evap box in your drivers side rear wheel well. Commanly the lines will rot out just as they leave the wheel well to the front i know because mine was so bad it had to remove 20 inches of pipe before i found solid pipe in my 98 a few years ago. Mice also like to nest on top of the evap filter in there (had a nice big one in mine). To check remove your wheel then take out the inside lining. Check all the lines for breaks or cracks to the front. After that check all the vacuum lines under the hood. These are the places i would start looking for this sorta issue.

Hi DeathJ. I took it to the machinic and he told me that the codes are showing the faulty could be with MAF sensor. Thank you

Hi Deathjam4. I have a ques, i have a 2004 passat 1.8 turbo. I recently changed the tank for coolant reservoir since it had original and leaking and temp light would turn on screen. But even after changing tank to a brand new i have to refill it daily cuz it still leaks from somewhere. What else could it be cuz the tank is empty everyday. I have followed all the hoses and none are leaking. Could it be water pump or what do u think since computer doesnt detect it?? I recently changed spark plugs like u said, runs smooth & it doesn't shake anymore. Now this is the only problem i am having with coolant. Thanks in advance for your help.

There is one common place that all jettas leak. If you look down there is a 4 point hose connector that goes into the engine block. Quite often the heat sensor mounted in this will begin to leak and the hose usually cracks. i put a picture bellow that should help show you what i am speaking about. Look around your engine for signs of wetness i can almsot guarantee this is the place its leaking since this is the spot it leaks 9 out of 10 times there is a leak. if you see no sign of leaks check your engine oil. If it has alot of white film on the cap and it smells like the radiator fluid you have a much more serious leak.

Deathjam4 engine oil is good. Does that spot leak coolant liquid cuz its definitely leaking the coolant liquid? Doesn't smell but its the neon color coolant that I place in reservoir. I fill it up in the am until max level and before the end of the say it is under minimum level if not empty and light of temp turns on. With the pic i have no clue where u are pointing to. Sorry

Deathjam4-- Can i email you a pic of the engine so you can tell me where that spot is pls? It doesn't let me Add pic from phone.

watch this video and it should show you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qg5PeIUPpM shows all the steps and the location. It is in behind the motor. I am 99% sure this is where the leak is. If you can get under the car check for signs of leaks at the back of the engine and that will confirm it.

You were right on point deathjam4!! As soon as i saw video i saw the piece slowly gushing the fluid. Will be changing it today. You are awesome!!! I have one last ques for you. When i start car, the a/c n wipers do not turn on normally. I have to give it time and turn it off even sometimes. It's something electrical when those don't work. The brake light on dash turns on when these things are not working then after several tries n driving a little a/c turns on n light on dashboard goes away. How can i fix this so it can be a normal car? It's not a mission on regular days but can be very frustrating when it is raining. I checked all the fuses n they all work but this has me going crazy at times cuz it happens daily. Thanks again for all your help!!! When i called auto parts for piece they were shocked that i knew which piece it was. Lol

Some comman issues jetta's have also is electrical issues. I have read a few forums that say the main wiring harness that goes out the fire wall some of the wires in the bundle can dry and and crack. and expose them self's to other wires. i can't say this is the issue but this also leads me to another question has your car ever had the battery taken off it ? some times unplugging the battery can be a cause or a fix. The computer some times needs to be reprogrammed after a battery unplug. This is ussaly only a problem in audis tho. you pay for fancy gizmos and vw/audi makes you pay to make um work right :P Try unplugging the battery and touching the cables together while both are disconnected. This should reboot your cars pc and it might help. If not you will have to pull out the old volt meter and start testing currents on the wires and checking for broken and exposed wires. Also On a last note if your car falls into the catagory of vin's check out the recall page and see if the issue with the brake light applys to your car. http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Volkswagen/Jetta/#2004

also on a side note i found a post on the forums board it said something about replacing fuse #5 with a 7.5 amp fuse fixes the issue i also noted that there was a number of people missing the fuse altogeather.

The all knowing deathjam your help is needed. I have a 2004 audi a4 1.8 The car over all runs great. Has 104000 miles currently. The 100k tune up was done about 10k miles ago, and the fuel pump was replaced about 5k miles ago. Dont know if any helps just trying to provide you with as much info as possible. So this only happens 1 out of 10 times i crank the car.it will start then idle very low and die on me. If i catch it and rev the motor for 20 sec it goes away. once the car cranks its fine again. I dont notice any other problems with the car. The check engine light stays on. I will check again today but the last time i pulled the code im pretty sure it was p0172. Any help would be greatly apprenticed.

Sounds like a sparking issue. One of your coils could be possibly be failing. Also when you said tune up did you also mean the timing belt, pulleys, thermostat, and water pump? these are usually done in a 800$ packaged work at vw for the 1.8L. If you have not done this already i would suggest doing it straight away. also pull your cyclinder 1 spark plug and check it for heavy carbon deposits its saying the car is running lean in that cylinder. Which is why i am suggesting the coil may be the issue. Also check for vacum leaks and check the throtale body temp sensor and maf. Not sure the later model has the throtale body heat sensor but if it does it will be mounted just on to of the plastic hose to it.

Yes had the full tune up. Cost a little more because i got a couple of water hoses and vacuum leaks fix. I will check all that you recommend when i get home today. Thanks a bunch, makes it easier when you have somewhere good to start.

Okay so i played around with it yesterday a little and started to check a few things you suggested. I found that the spark plugs looked in pretty rough shape so ill replace those today. On top of that i pulled the codes up again and it was p0172 and p0117. I tried to delete them(just to see what happens) while the car was running( sounded good and smooth) and the codes stayed off. I then restarted the car and the p0117 came on instantly. That code says the ECT Circuit Malfunction. Im just confused because the temp. guage works fine and all. I checked the tune up paperwork and they replaced the thermostat and water pump and a bunch of hoses. I guess i could replace the ECT. Im not really sure where it is though. What are your thoughts?

And the true monster shows it head.. po117 is the temp sensor. If this malfunctions it causes the car to think its over heating and as a safety feature to make sure your engine does not blow up it shuts the car off or disallows it to run. google search your make and year of car and temp sensor and you should come up with a handful of videos showing you how to do it. Just incase i posted an image of its location.

ok I found that video. Man im excited, if it does ran to bad once i get home im gonna go ahead and replace the ect sensor and the spark plugs(for good measure) I did notice when i turned off the engine on my obd2 scanner it shows all the sensors readings that the ect was showing like 260. So wishful thinking but maybe i can get this fixed today.Ill touch back with you tommorrow. Thanks

Wow deathjam4, you are on a roll! Many thanks for taking the time to answer our questions. Cheers to you. If you don't mind I have a question too ;) I've a 98 audi a6 2.8L Quattro. The car sometimes needs more cranking than usual to start up. When : This doesn't happen on a cold start. Usually happens if the car is parked for 10-15 minutes and I try to start the car and the engine is still hot. What : What happens is I keep cranking for maybe a bit more than 5 secs, the RPM first goesup like usual but then comes down as fast, but then somehow the engine manages to not die. What could be the reason? : 1) Secondary air injection pump: I know my secondary air injection pump needs replacing (it makes a bad noise while it runs and I have the P0411 DTC). 2) Carbon deposit due to low grade gas : The previous owner was fuelling it with low grade gasoline :-/ After I bought the car, I switched completely to high grade (usually 91/92) and ran a bottle of BG44K through the fuel. 3) Coolant temp sensor : I read online that this could be because of faulty temp sensor thinking the engine is over heating 4) Loss of pressure in fuel line : Read online that if one of the two fuel pumps are faulty or there is a pressure leak in the hoses, then pressure may be too low in the fuel line which could make it harder for the engine to start. I just wanted to know what you think might be the reason for the particular problem, or if you could suggest some ways to cross out some of these possibilities so that I don't have to spend money to fix each one of them. Thanks!

most common issue with these older 98 audis is they come equipped with a poor PVC system and a throttle body temp sensor. Th original question answer should solve your issues n hot starts. Also find my second post with the pvc pictures and have them checked out for sludge. Also another line that breaks is along the drivers side head. There is a rubber plastic hose that drys out and snaps in. this causes idle issues. What does your gauges say as well ? and did you ask the previous owner replaced the timing belt and such at any time that he owned it. Last but not least change to bosch 4 point plugs they will cost you 88$ or such but worth every penny in this modal of car. Only replace them once your done with everything else. Would be good to clean the MAF and replace the fuel filter as well. If they used crappy gas this will most likely have collected some junk in it over the years they drove it.

and ok Tim hopefully that fixes your issue :P

Okay I will try the things in the original question's answers. Oil temp/coolant temp/fuel guages all seem to be working fine. Yes previous owner replaced timing belt and some of the coolant lines less than an year ago. With 'bosch 4 point plugs' you mean spark plugs with 4 ground electrodes right? Will replace the fuel filter and MAF too. Should have replaced the fuel filter first, like you said that would probably be in a miserable state by now. Thanks again!

You should only need to clean the MAF with maf cleaner. Pull it out and spray both sides of the sensor then simply reinstall. saves you 500$ if this is not the problem. and the picture bellow is the ones I'm speaking of so yes. And make sure you get the right fuel filter i got one for my car and it did not fit right and leaked like a sieve. That was the last time i ordered a part from that website :P

Haha. Okay, thanks for the help and advice :)

Questions, I have a 99 four runner. The other day after sitting in drive for about 10 mins, after turning my car off it wouldn't start all the way .I left it alone for about 20 mins then it started but acting like it didn't want to go. I took it to my car place they looked at it but it was running fine. Then after letting it sit for a while it started acting up again. They changed the mass air filter. It ran fine for a couple of days then I was stuck in traffic for about 20 mins and it started shaking once I started driving it was fine. When I got back home I turned it off, when I tried to restart it about 10 mins later it did the same thing it did before I took it to get fixed, after about 30 mins it worked and hasn't acted up again. PLEASE HELP!

if you are referring to a audi with a 2.8L or a 1.8L engine it sounds like a vacuum leak or the engine is struggling to get air. Check out the pictures i posted above. The first 2 pictures shows the head cover breather hoses and the throttle body temp sensor. Check these parts out first. Next you can check the vacum line that runs along the top of hte head next to the oil filler hole. Remove the side and top cover of the 2.8L engine covers and look for a hose that runs along the top of hte head to the back. It leads to a big blue ball container. This line often breaks and it is for idle control. If you are talking about a honda 4 runner then check air ways and vacum hoses for breaks clean the maf sensor and check your plugs replace if not been replaced in a long time.

Maybe someone can help me i have a audi a4 turbo 2008 idk why my car dies on me but turns back on i smell some kind of burn when i drive it ...

Really need help

What does the burning smell like ? does it smell oily like a chain saw ... maybe smell like plastic burning.. smells like hot pee.. each has its own problems identifying the smell will help greatly.

Hi deathjam4 Mayde... Audi a4, b5,1.8 It starts well bt goes off just before idling and it cnt rev beyond 2000, when this happens I can smell fuel if u knw wat I mean...... Hav changed the fuel pump, MAF, cleaned the throttle, changed filters and coil bt still no change... What cud b the problem

Please Help!! I have a 1999 Audi A3 1.8L. Every so often the car stops running after I have been driving. It normally happens at the worst possible time - like right in the middle of a busy intersection - when the car is stationary. I had been advised that it needed a new fuel filter so I got this replaced. A few days after it was replaced, the problem occurred again. The time it takes for the car to run again varies - sometimes it has only taken a few minutes wait for it start up again on the first attempt, other times it wont start again for several attempts with minutes waiting in between. One strange thing to note about the car is that the temperature light always seems to go on whenever I start the car. Sometimes it disappears on its own after I have been driving for a while, but other than that I have got into the habit of filling the coolant with water, which seems to bring the light off. The other weird thing is the rate at which the water in the coolant is used - it seems to drain out pretty quickly and I frequently have to refill it. I really know nothing about cars and am not sure if this coolant issue is the cause or is in anyway related to the problem of the car stopping. If anyone could give me some advice that would mean a lot!! Cheers.

well sounds like you have a coolant leak the fact you have to continuosly refill your coolant tank would be the first clue. Also adding water into your coolant is a good temporary problem solver but if it gets cold out it will expand and then crack your block or heads or hoses or radiator excetra. Figure out where its leaking by going under the car and find wet spots. the most likely place for the 1.8s to leak is the front coolant flange which is a plastic 4 way rad hose connector attached to the side of the engine block. Check it for dampness also the water pump tends to leak when it starts to go at higher rpms. added bellow is a picture of where the car leaks when the water pump starts to go.

I would like some help if possible please. I have a 2004 vw jetta 1.8t that is giving me issues lately. Issues originally being rough idle, lose of power dies while driving. The dying while driving issue seems to only happen when the car is warmed up or about 10-15 minutes after running. I put it in the shop after exhausting my fixes (ie, clean maf) and ended up getting ignition coils, plugs, intake manifold, crankcase and thermostat replaced and car ran like it was brand new for about 4 days. While driving home yesterday the cars check engine light and epc light came on and car started running rough again (however not as rough as it was prior to putting in shop). When I stopped to have a look it took me about 20 minutes of sitting to get the car to start again, it would turn over fine and sometimes start but wouldn't stay on for a second or two. Then after 20 minutes or so it started up and I was able to make it home. This morning I go out and car starts up first time and ran fine with only check engine light but not epc. It did however die on me on my way into work in heavy traffic but only took about 5 minutes to start back up. Does any of this make sense? I am scheduled to take my car back to shop this afternoon but super stressed out about it because of money issues and recovering from nervous breakdown so if this message doesn't make any sense then disregard. I just need the car to get me by for another 6 months or so until I piece my life back together and get a new one.

Hello there good ppl. I have a audi a4 2.0 petrol b7 im haveing big probs with loss of power and sometimes it jst cuts off on up hills can anyone plz help me or tell me wat I can do to fix this problem of mine thanks

Plz if url can help try a drop me a email on hw I can fix my prob would b very great full sibtainkhan4@gmail.com

hi Deathjam4 i have a a4 2006 audi 2.0t thats cuts off on me when its running for about 20mins. and when i have the ac on it cuts off too like w.t.f

have your alternator and battery checked sounds like a power issue to me. Make sure none of your pulleys are stuck and inspect the belt for signs of rubbing and cracks. Also check the tensioner they have a habit of falling apart

Death jam i have an audi a4 2.8 . when im at a complete stop my car dies because once car warms up for 5 minutes rpm drop and car completly dies but will start again. It doesnt get any power when i step on the gas as well and makes a ticking like noise. Its a 5 speed what will cause my car to Shut off and not idle?? The guy i bought it from claims it misfires 5 and 6 and could use spark plugs could this make my car shut off at complete stop and barely have and throttle/ power?? Please help

It starts up instantly after it shuts off btw just dies and no power when i step on gas...

This can be Many different issues. Anything from spark plugs to fuel pump.. You have to have all the basics checked, Fuel gas and air. I would recommend pulling the crank case breather hoses and checking for sludge and blockage. Next clean the maf and throttle body temperature sensor. Next move on to checking for spark. Pull the plugs if they are dirty and look old replace them with Bosch Iridium 4 prongs (more expensive but most reliable.) **Make sure the car is only running straight premium 91 octane and above gasoline Regular gas fouls the plugs and causes carbon build up in the intake system*** Next check for the fuel pump sound by turning hte key to power on and opening the rear passenger side seat down. Get back to me once you figure out that it has all these things working and cleaned

I read about your problem with your 98 audi? Could i get the 50 engine cleaner at auto zone for 20$ and maybe the fuel one just incase? The idle raises and drops as it ticks. Check engine and oil pressure light comes on as well

I was thinking a lifter in cylinder but i have the same car as you did and it sounds the exact same when i was reading your comment.

i used the full synthetic slick 50 for ticking noises and Lucas engine cleaner i think. Gotta do an oil change straight after words with cleaners. Using an additive in the fuel is usually the best way to beat carbon but if its to dense it wouldn't do much. you may even need to remove the throtal body to clean it. Make a check list do what i said in the last post before this and tell me if it makes a differance. And Fyi Most ticking noise is either a lifter or that air valve on top of the breather box.

Hey Deathjam4 hope you can help me with this. I have change a few things since u told me about flange. The engine heated up and oil mixed with coolant and reservoir let go of some mix that looked like american coffee. I then drained all that mix from engine and coolant, changed the engine oil filter, thermostat and the other plastic for thermostat. However the car continues to heat up and now doesn't turn on. Do you have any idea what it could be now?? Its a 2004 vw passat 1.8 turbo. I read something about that it might be cylinder head overhaul. What is that?? How can i find out how much that piece will be cuz i don't find anything under cylinder head overhaul only cylinder head gasket. Is it the same thing or am I confused. Thanks in advance for all your help

if your oil mixed into your antifreeze that is one of 3 things 1. Your block is cracked 2. Your head is warped or cracked 3. Your Head gasket has blown. would be best to have a shop that specialises in vw/audis to take a look at it and get a heads up before you start throwing any more parts at it.

Deathjam4 I would love your help. I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro and the check engine light came on. At first I was told the code was in regards t the fuel cap and possibly needing to replace it. After that was replaced the check engine light came on. It's been shaking and when staring it feels like it's about to stall especially at stop lights. A few times it didn't start right away. I took it in and was told the codes had something to do with fuel and possibly a fuel filter or fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced yesterday and they turned the check engine light off. Within a few hours the car shook a little and check engine light came back on. Any ideas on what is possibly going on?

Deathjam4: CORRECTION the fuel filter was replaced NOT the fuel pump

well it defiantly sounds like a fuel issue or a firing issue. Have all the plugs pulled and checked. Also i would see about a replacement fuel pump. Also where have you been taking the car to get it scanned ? if its not a vw/audi specialist shop they may not be getting a full detailed picture from a scan. The garage ussaly requires a special software to properly scan the car. Most garages that deal with vw/audi use rosstech software which paints a more clear picture for the vw/audi cars. Regular scanners only grab surface codes. Try to find a proper garage in youir area or buy your self a dongal from amazon and scan the car your self with a laptop.

Thank you Deathjam4! You responded so quickly. I took it back in today. It's a local shop but they do specialize in Audis and have a specialized scanner to show where the issue is. There were no misfiring codes. They checked the fuel pump and said it doesn't need to be replaced and instead replaced the Crank Case Ventilation System Pressure Regulating Valve. They checked the coils as well and said they don't need to be replaced. I drove back to work and things seem to be ok. On my way home from work I called the place back because now my car is subtly shaking every time I break. It's a similar feeling like before but now it's every time I break. Any thoughts?

you said they replaced the crank case breath thing ? did they replace all the pcv or jsut that part ? it still sounds like the system is blocked. Normally when the pvc is replaced its recommended to replace it all. so check that out.

Hey Deathjam 4 i own a 02 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t turbo. I been having a few problems with it and I see you know a lot about them. When I try to start my car is won't start right away I got to try like 6-8 time to start it and it has a rough start to it for 15 sec then drive good and sounds good. I also having problem with the temperature when I drive the car temperature is normal but sometimes it says it over heats for about 2 minutes then goes back to normal. I could drive the car for a hour then it happens but the motor sounds good and it doesn't smoke. I really would love some help I have been trying to find the problem but can't find nothing. I got new gaskets , new oil pump, new water pump. New sparks. But these two problems won't go away. Any help.??

best guess is the temp sensor is most likely got a short or is faulty. did you replace the water pump and thermo stat ? its usually best to do both instead of just one. the temp sensor should be located in one of the rad hoses either just up front or under that big intake manifold in a 3-4 way junction hose Which might actually be leaking they normally do

I'm going to go through all the hoses again to make sure is good and I order the thermo stat should be here anyday now. But I put the intake manifold and it brought to gasket a rubber one and a metal one should I put both on it.?

Hey death jam, I've noticed you seem to be helping some people with a lot of audio issues. I have a 200 audio a6 avant Quattro 2.8l. Lately I have to try 7 or more times to start my car with a cold motor. Also when I'm driving down the road I lose about 75% of my power and my car vibrates as I apply gas. My car will start to overheat a little as well. It will some times kick back to normal and drive fine but eventually will go back to running like shit. Please give me an opinion, the online service at audiusa said they can only tell me to take it to a dealer. Any ideas?

I was thinking my spark plugs and coils or a cat has gone bad. Now really sure. I do have a service light on and my brakes wear light is on but I still have most of the life on my brakes. As they are only 6 months old and I barely drive my car except 2 miles to work.

No check engine light though so that would eliminate the cat wouldn't it?

probles96 if you removed the intake it depends on the cars year. The metal one is for newer modals and the rubber with 3 rings is for the 96-99 modals so only one is nescary.

Audia6avant00 You need to get those codes read. If you can get a dongal and the rosstech program scan the car your self its like 18$ on amazon. As for getting it running smoothly do a few maintenance things first. Check all your vacum lines with soapy water and a spray bottle. Remove the MAF and clean it with maf cleaner. Furhther down the air way is a sensor jsut above the throtale body clean this as well. Pull all the crank case hoses and replace them. They are most likely due for a change regardless. find the best octane gas you can find and run that threw the car. Check the rear wheel well on the drivers side for signs of broken lines and hoses (evap lines run to a box inside the wheel well removed the plastic cover and check the box) Check your plugs and replace if you been running low octane gas. (bosch 4 point spark plugs are the best) Work threw this list and see if it helps. And if you have a brake light on your dash its most likely a bad wheel sensor or your abs pump has a rotten or burnt wire or its simply old and jammed depends on the code it gives.

Hey there guys. I have a 99 Audi A4 2.8L Quattro. The car take about ten seconds to start and after it starts I have to keep revving it or it will shutoff. I get two codes that are p0411 and p1300. Can some one please help me fix the problem...

The p0411 code is most likely from a broken vacum line. Take off your engine cover and the cover over the drivers side of your engine and look for a vacum line that runs the length of the head past the oil filler cap. It is most likely disintegrated like what happens on all the 2.8's. this will most liekly fix both your problems tho you may need new plugs to fix the p1300

Hi Deathjam4 i think the problem is the water pump. Once i told u about that american coffee gunk that came out of the reservoir i had the system cleaned out n changed thermostat and some other elbow that has to do with thermostat. The car didn't turn on so i thought it was complete engine like u suggested it would be pne of the three possibilities u mentioned. I truly was ready to junk it n get off these headaches. Its hasn't been working since Nov 2015. My neighbor actually got it to turn on and we found that it has a small leak. Possible the water pump n the battery. Could this be the reason it never turned on before (water pump got damaged with that gunk that went thru system). System never got to hydrolock cuz we were able to move it front and back a few feet. Can anything else go possibly wrong once i change the water pump cuz now i'm just a little iffy since its a few hundreds for water pump to get replaced??

1.8L have a funky 4 point flange that likes to crack. and the coolant temp sensor is usually the indicator that its broken. That and leaks on the drivers side of the engine. If its leaking coolant this could be the cause. Has it gotten any more oil into the coolant or no? a good way to find out if its head trouble is usually if the oil has coolant and the coolant has oil in it. the water pump is on the oppiste side of the engine so if its leaking on that side and it is the pump i would suggest just getting a timing belt replacement kit which comes with the timing belt pulleys water pump thermo state and bolts. its a little pricier to get done but if the water pump is going your belt is likely getting to its age of needing replacement any ways. be absolutely sure this is the issue if you change the parts out tho. Get a close look around the edges of the head for signs of cracks warping or leaking between the head and the block.use a telescoping camera if you need to and clean the engine down as well if necessary.

I need some help......I have a AUDI Q4 2014 which I brought in December..As I was driving waiting for traffic to move my Q4 shuts down. It scared the daylights out of me....good thing I wasn't going fast......I changed the remote battery and drove the next day to Walmart ..came back home and my Q4 shut down before I turned it off.......I'm ready to give the car back.....I'm definitely afraid to drive.......

its most likely an ignition issue. Take it back to audi it should be covered under warranty. they should be able to pull any codes from the car and find the issue fast.

Hey deathjam.. Ive got an 01 a4 Quattro 1.8t that has about 130000 on it, just had the turbo (aftermarket), coil pack connector housing, breather parts, rear waterneck, exhaust flex, sparkplugs, thermostat and coolant temp sensor replaced.. The coolant level low display on my dash still lights up, coolant level is fine.. The car is running a little hot I think, also once it gets warmed up it will occasionally lose power momentarily, for about 10-15 seconds, the rpm's drop to about 500 or less and then they come back and I have power again.. Sometimes it'll stall out, does restart right away.. Check engine light is on, only code showing up is p0321.. Replaced the rear water neck about 6 months ago and it started leaking coolant there again already so I replaced it again.. Oem parts both times..

Also it's leaking oil at the #3 cylinder, gonna try atp's at-205 reseal to stop the leak until I can justify putting more money into it

Got a crank shaft position sensor coming right now, hoping that takes care of the power loss and stalling out.. Not sure what to do about the running hot though.. I think that's why the rear water neck keeps leaking, I'm thinking it's melting the plastic.. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

the 1.8L engines have a wonkey 4 point connector on the drivers side of the engine for the antifreeze. THis part often breaks down after awhile and screws up the temp sensor. If this is not the cause of the leak then you most likely need a head gasket done especialy if your oil has anti freeze mixed in with it. The audis with the 1.8's also had alot of head gasket issues so i would not be surprised if this could be the cause of the loss of power as it can cause a loss of compression in the cylinders. Have a compresion test done and it should give you an idea of whats going on with the leaks.

No oil in the antifreeze and no antifreeze in the oil.. Do you know what the connector you're taking about is called? Is it difficult to replace?

just trace the rad hoses to the side of the block its just called a coolant flange.

Hello, today I've get some issues with my 2002 audi a3/1.9tdi 96kw. It's really hot here so it may be the case. My engine turned off few seconds after starting, after few tries I finnaly was able to move, but when I arrived to my destination and gear up R, engine turned off again. Few days ago, I have replaced glass lifting mechanism in drivers doors, it is possible that I could messed up some contacts? Thank you for anserw.

contacts in your dor would not cause the car to not start. the car should have generated some computer info so have it scanned at a local vw/audi specialist then com back to us if they don't offer a fix.

@deathjam4 I have a 2000 VW Passat about 110k miles on it and my check engine light is on. I had it ran and the codes that popped up were P0441 Evap control system incorrect purge flow P0134 H02S (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit no activity P0154 H02S (bank 2 sensor 1) circuit no activity For a few months Everytime I would put gas in the car it would have trouble starting, it would start up the rpm would drop under 5 and cut off the only way it would work is if I revved the engine and threw it in gear then it would drive fine. Recently it has been doing this every time I start the car and as soon as I come to a stop whether it be in traffic or at a stop sign it cuts off. I'm pretty sure it's an idle issue or a fuel issue but after reading this thread i don't know and plus I don't know much about cars and I want to takeit to a mechanic but I don't want to get overcharged. Do these symptoms sound familiar? Is it a fuel filter issue, or something to do with the fuel? Please help

@deathjam4 I also live in Las Vegas and it's like 115 degrees

well these cars particularly for thier year don't like heat after a while. First things first fine the sensors that are mentioned above and trace the wires and make sure they are not broken or frayed. its also possible something was unplugged. step 2 would be to check the most common evap issue which is the charcoal canister and the emission box located behind the rear drivers side inner wheel well cover. It is quite often the line rots off for the emissions box in there and its also a favorite place for mice to nest. A sure sign that this has happened is a vacuum sound near that wheel and the smell of fuel. Some minor steps of maintence may also assit in trouble shooting. Replace the fuel filter you live in a sandy area so its possible its got a bunch of crap in it. Next step would be to check all the vacum lines for signs of breakage or cracks. Check all the crank case breather hoses. Push both sides of the clip and pull it off. At this age if the car has never had these hoses replaced they are likely full of crap and cause idle issues. Check and clean all the sensors in the main air way such as the MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor) and the temp sensor which is normally located just above the throttle body in the plastic tube (it is only on some modals mostly the 2.8L engines) once your done this get back to me.

Ok I will try to check everything today or right now appreciate it bro and I will get back to you

looking for heip, 2004 a4 1.8l, po103, replacedass air sensor, got p0102, put old sensor back got p0103 back, bad sensor, ordered another one, put it in ran great until next day start stall start stall, no codes, put old sensor back in runs just code p0103, orded another sensor, put it in same concern last a day and will start and stall no codes, these are cheap senors of of ebay, so i ordered a bosch sensor and waiting for it to come, I was wondering if you have to use a bosch sensor, because the engine compartment does get hot which is normal from what i can tell and maybe cheap sensors can't handle heat, the orginal sensor is a bosch and it alwats runs just puts code p0103 , Am i going in right direction? thanks for any help

looking for help, 2004 a4 1.8l, po103, replacedass air sensor, got p0102, put old sensor back got p0103 back, bad sensor, ordered another one, put it in ran great until next day start stall start stall, no codes, put old sensor back in runs just code p0103, orded another sensor, put it in same concern last a day and will start and stall no codes, these are cheap senors of of ebay, so i ordered a bosch sensor and waiting for it to come, I was wondering if you have to use a bosch sensor, because the engine compartment does get hot which is normal from what i can tell and maybe cheap sensors can't handle heat, the orginal sensor is a bosch and it alwats runs just puts code p0103 , Am i going in right direction? thanks for any help

Replacing the sensor is not always the straight up answer. The most likely cause or reason your getting this issue is probably due to a bad wire. check this link out and it should help...... http://www.obd-codes.com/p0103 as for your other issues with the p0102 problem you likely have a vacum leak. Make sure everything is seated correctly on the airflow meter and try replacing those rubber seals betwen if they look ratty.

AS you can see I put cheap aftermarket sensors in , I 've order a bosh sensor, I went through all and did pin point test and tell me bad sensor, The bosh sensor in made so much better than the aftermarket ones, I feel that the bosh sensor can handle the heat better. So this is what I am doing, It has an cold air intake that some on put in, but did not put heat shield back in , and the old air box give the mass air sensor a lot of protection, so when i get the new bosh sensor I will install it and then make a heat shield to shield the mass air sensor, Tell Me what you think.

simply put you shouldn't really need to shield the sensor. The only heat shield i believe is next to he fire wall and or the side of the engine. Yes the cheap sensors probably were not that fantastic as well but if the sensor is working right then a cold air intake even with the box removed should not cause any problems. The high voltage issue you are experiencing is usually caused by a short in the wire so while your waiting for the new sensor trace all your lines and voltage check them the link above should help you with that part and tell you the regular voltages for the line.

@Deathjam4 I see yu know your stuff, need ah lil advice. I have ah 2006 audi a4 2.0T quattro. I bought with 130,000. And I had new tubro put on the day after I bought it becuz it showed that code when engine light came on. Now I had the car for a year I bought it last August, and now I'm @ 150,000. Jus had a starter put on 2 weeks ago And it's been fine. I have a vacuum hose issue. I have 4 codes also. Fuel pressure regulator. Idle air control. High pressure fuel pump. Maf airflow sensor. I drove it about 15miles to my dads. Did everything as usual cut it off, locked it. Was there bout two hours went to get in to leave and my doors wouldn't unlock by button as usual so I unlocked it wit the key in door. Started up fine got out for bout 5 mins just talking right beside the car to my dad and it jus cut off and would not cut back on and the key wouldn't lock the car by button before I left I had to lock it by key in the door. And leave it there. Guessing my battery is dead in my key. Anyway.. Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!! Lol. Going back to check it out in the morning... I know your prolly tired of repeating yourself. I read most of your comments to advoid asking you but I'm still lost n jus confused

lol naw its alright if i don't repeat myself often enough i might forget hehe. Any ways i would suggest bringing a volt meter and checking the battery voltage. Any thing lower then 10.5 volts and Audi's start to screw up electrical wise. when you scanned the car go by the first code and start checking your way threw the system. Check all the vacuum lines and crank case hoses for signs of breaking. This is a fairly old car now so the plastic tubes will start becoming brittle and breaking. More times then often most problems start with a busted crank case hose improper vacuum causes fuel and air issues.. since the fuel regulator came up first i would say the car is possibly not getting enough fuel at the right pressure. always check the vacuum lines first tho before you start replacing parts kk. Any ways listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to power on any thing less then a steady pitched hum would indicate an issue with the pump. if the pump sounds alright just go ahead and replace the fuel filter its probably due to be changed regardless and its cheap. If this still does not fix the issue then trouble shoot the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail if your car has it. also clean the maf with the sensor cleaner, it never hurts to do it every once and a while at least 1-2 times a year any more then that and its pointless. if you do manage to get the car running use soapy water and a spray bottle to find the leak. any ways hopes this helps let me know how it goes

Okayy I will do. Thank yu so much.

So I put a new battery in key still wouldn't lock or unlock car. Anyway I put gas in it becuz I know my fuel pressure regulator is messed up and it started right up . went to store put more gas in it and of course my gauge and digital is reading that I have 45-50miles which is what it said yesterday when I cut it on and it cut off on me. So I'm now home. Engine light still on and has been before all this fukery occured lol. So I got out hit the lock button and it locked. This car is jus crazy and now the people my dad and a friend whom helped me put gas in it thinks I don't keep my car full of gas and I do... Wow.

I know it's more too it could've jus been a good day for her and I'm gonna spend all day tomorrow looking over everything that you've told me. Thanx again will update you shortly prolly by Sunday

if its a fill up issue i would pull off the inner rear wheel covers and inspect all the valves and hoses. I would also open the tank and inspect the pump. ive heard that some times if you have venting issues it can pull the pump out of the bottom of the tank.. I am not saying this happened but its worth a look since you can also check to see if there is anything blocking the filter on the pump in the tank. i would not do this on the drive way how ever if you have a tarbased drive way best to do it on the dirt or gravel as you will have some fuel spilage.

@deathjam4 I have an 2006 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0. It's been misfiring multiple times but doesn't turn off and the check engine light is not coming on. I took it in to get fixed by a mechanic who has worked on Audis and Volvos for 20 years and he said it's probably the coils but without the code from the check engine light he doesn't know for sure. He said I could start replacing the coils and see what happens or I can drive it until the check engine light comes on. I'm afraid of making the problem worse by driving it. Have you heard of this happening before? What are your thoughts?

I would start at the battery and have its cranking amps and voltage checked and have it checked under load. More times then often issues arise due to a faulty battery in an audi vehicle. anything less then 11.5 volts makes audi's do wierd things... On other matters have you noticed any issues with the lights or dash coming staying on? often enough the brake light switch will cause electrical issues as well. i would have to say with out a code this is hard to figure out what could be the possible issue. you can only go over the Some of the most common issues are as follows. The key cylinder or ignition switch, Battery, Air leak in the vacuum system, Clogged fuel filter (often happens with poor fuel being used) bad fuel regulator, bad coils, Bad ignition mo-dual or relay, Shorts in the brake circuit at the peddle, bad coil packs. The list goes on but these are the most often diagnosed from my knowledge. I would try putting some better fuel in the car if possible do a spark plug change clean the air ways and check all crank cases hoses for leaks as well as vacuum lines and replace as needed. This is the cheaper road to start with and may solve the issue. Use some rosstech software and a laptop to keep an eye on your cars computer read out. You can get the harness for your car off amazon for cheap and can download the program free from ross tech if need be. so try that and then get back to me if the problem persists. You should be fine to drive the car till then if a code does not show then you likely have not suffered any engine damaging problems.

oh and when i say air ways i ment clean all the sensors such as the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

Hey deathjam4 plz help me out bro My 2014 audi a4 sometimes (not all the time) suddenly turns off when i stop braking down from a high speed or when i put it into park, no engine light infact no problem with the car at all and she runs perfect.

check your key battery it might be dead or almost dead. With alot of the key fob igniton systems often if the battery dies in the remote the car will stall thinking a security problem. Other then that try checking the car battery if its weak the same thing can happen

Hi Deathjam4 I have same sort of issue, with 2004 audi a6 1.9 tdi, When driving it was pouring out loads of black smoke with loss of power (turbo) did not kick in, it would then not go above 2000rpm, I took to my mechanic and we took apart egr valve actuator valve and turbo all been cleaned as were completley covered in soot!! and put back together, we started it up a couple of days ago and it reved up nice but once foot was off the accelerator pedal the revs died and car stalled, when we put the key in the car sounds like it was priming to start but doesnt sound like fuel is flowing, my mechanic now thinks it may be a problem with cyclinder? I also has problem with glow plugs when tried to changed front two snapped off and has to have the drilled out and recut, not sure Please help would love to get it back on the road any ideas would be a massive help.

Deathjam4, I have and 2005 Audi A4 2.0t that has a surging idle at first start up when temperatures are around freezing. It only lasts a minute or so. Any ideas would be appreciated!

if its cold its normal its just the warm up phase of the car. anything over 1100 rpms would be likely a dirty air filter or dirty mafs

audi_A62017 if it sounds like its priming but is not getting any fuel its likely got a clogged fuel filter or the pump is not functioning. turn the key to power on with the spark plugs out of a cylinder. if you can smell the fuel and get the fuel its not a fuel problem. Diesles have a big issue with carbon build up after years of use. You may consider a decarboning which is basically removing the intake and having all the build up carbon deposits chipped off. a good place to start also is to get the plugs out and replace them. have the fuel pressure checked at your garage as well it should be around a particular number.

Deathjam4 a fluctuating idle almost dying is normal for those? Around freezing outside temps?

you did not say that you jsut said it has a long and high idle then goes to normal operating speed. Any and all vw's and audis the car will idle high at 1000-1200 rpms before settling between 800-500 rpms with a even idle. If your car does not do this then you likely have a vacum leak or the crank case hoses are getting cloged or broken some where

I have a 2001 Volkswagen Passat 1.8 and when I try to start it the rpms will drop then the car will sputter then turn off. After about 3 times the car will start and work perfectly. I replaced the fuel pump about a month ago. I do however smell gas sometimes.

check the emissions lines for the fuel smell. These cars still have charcoal canisters which lead from the tank to the front and often will have the line rot off in the drivers side rear wheel well. Remove the wheel take out the plastic cover and check the emissions filter and lines that go in and out. Mine had to be replaced for over 5 ft a a few years ago. sputtering and trouble starting would likely be caused from clogged air ways or fuel filter. check all the crank cases hoses for signs of breaks pull them off ad the head cover and if its clogged replace the whole set of pvc. clean the mafs and the temp sensor . hopefully this helps. use your nose to try and find the place the smell of gas is strongest if the emissions lines are fine but i guarantee that's where the smell is coming from.

Thank you Deathjam4

It smells like it's coming from the exhaust . Their is also this hose that's loose in the passenger side rear wheel well.

that is likely a vent hose. they are not supposed to be hanging so low. if i were you i would jack the car up take off both the back wheels *use jack stands* and strip out the inner wheel wells and find out whats broken, whats rotten, and what needs to be fixed or replaced. I used to have some pictures of what my old cars emission line looked like but lost them when my western digital suddenly just did not boot up ever again.. but yea once you have the drivers side rear wheel off and the inner wheel well guard out you will see what I'm talking about. first time i took this out of mine i found a mouse nest in there on top of the filter

HI DeathJam, I have a 2088 Audi A4 that has been giving a bit of trouble. Last month we had a tune up, last week we have the fuel pump replaced, and still our car continues to stall on us. IT seems to give the most trouble when it's hot and/or when we're in stuck in traffic. The car will shake really hard and then just shut off. When we turn the key, it tries to kick over but fails. It takes at least 20 mins before it will turn back on. The engine light keeps going on and off. What could the issue be? We thought it was the fuel pump but it's still stalling.

2008*

its likely something simple try having the car scanned and see what that brings up. Bring the codes you get here or have the garage tell you what the codes are. if i know anything about audis its either vacum *broken vacum line or crankcase hose esepcialy if its a 3.0L* spark plugs need replacement or there is bad fuel pressure due to the filter or valve. those would be my best guesses. in some instances it can be a a sensor but sounds more like one of the other issues. I would have a tune up done clean the crap out of the system and such.

Thank you DeathJam. We had a tune up done recently. So I'm thinking I'll ask them to check on the filter, vacuum line, and crank hose, like you said.

im on once a day so if you need any more help let me know

Hi I'm having a problem with my 2006 Audi A4. It starts up and runs and then after like 10-15 the cars shuts off. The battery light stay on. Changed new spark plugs, starter, coil packs, and battery. Have any idea what I can be?

have you checked the alternator ? if the battery light comes on its either a battery or the alternator. at the cars current age i would say the core and the brushes are likely waring out at this point especialy if its haveing shutt down issues. use a volt meter turn on the car and use it on the battery. it should at idle be stable with 14.5 volts anything bellow 14 volts means you have achargeing system issue.

hey deathjam4, i have a 04 Audi A4 cabrio with 1.8t, i need help figuring out what are those blue/ light blue filters next to my air cleaner box, i cant seem to find them anywhere, i have 2 that are cracked & i beleive this is whats giving me a check engine light on my dash, can you help ? thanks for your help in advance

if you you post picture for me i might be able to figure what is

@deathjam4 Hii my Audi A4 2.0 2007 ALT b7 , started having no power when accelerating , then it started shaking when I drive and a bit of noise , I drove about 700km long road , when I got home it cut out and when it starts now it shakes and dies , and there is no accelerator it doesn't work , audi has checked and a bounch of mechanics and no one can find the problem , please help

what have they replaced so far ? also if you have the stock coil packs there was a recall on the 2007 audi coil packs the local dealer will likely repalce them for free if this is the case. Give them the vin and ask speciacily of coil recalls and have a new set of spark plugs at the same time. this should rectifie the issue. A few other things that can cause this is a rip in the diverter/recerculation valve in the turbo if you have it on your car. one big igve away tho is if the car has hesitation when hiting the gas before it decides to take off. any ways for more info check this website out. it should provide a few more insights that may help you. http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/104324-2-0T-hesitation-power-loss

2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t Car has problems starting, when it finally starts it won't stay on. It's back firing up into the cold air intake and out the exhaust. You literally have to press on the gas and brake to even keep it started. I've put 4 different mass air flow sensors on, and it still does the same thing. It does have the EGR delete, my mechanic is clueless, I'm clueless and don't know what else it could be. It does not show any codes,

have you tryied checking your coils and plugs ? sounds to me like its not firing properly. and if its backfiring then its likely as i said as the fuel that does not get fired in combustion will end up going out the exaust. the turbo is linked right into the crank case hoses as well. Try perhaps servicing the turbo they need to be reubilt or replaced every 70-80,000 km regardless and can cause some backfireing and idle issue's any other things that would be good to clean or check is the throtle body. Cleaning that up and checking if for signs of not working correctly may reviel an issue. Some cheap replacments would be replace all the crank case hoses and valves as they tend to clog after a long period and cause backup inssues in the head which restricts oil movement cooling and idle.

Hello Deathjam I have a problem on audi A4 2002 mult , the car doesn't start fully . it ignite and goes off immediately with no fault light on . even if I put my foot on gas pedals is of no help. please help

this sounds like a security issue. the key will sometimes become desynced from the car. A simple thing may fix it. try this and see if it works. Put your key in turn to power on (do not try to start it) leave it like this for 15-30 minutes. After the time period turn to power off and then try to start it. if it starts then awsome. if not then it must be a vacum line or crank case hose. a bit more info on the engine size will help trouble shoot as well.

@deathjam hi thanks alot , I have taked the audi to a audi specialist and they putted it on machines and they checked the whole engine and coils and harness everything, but can't find the problem. Nobody has any idea what's wrong , but it's not a turbo , they said the hydrolic lifters needs to be changed but apparently that's not the problem , but it still has no accelerator and shakes itself to dead

if its not a major part then it likely is a sensor or a air way thats cloged. also did you check the dealer for recalls for your make and model? just go in and speak with the service tech at the desk for recalls on your car and give them the vin number. get the recalls done *its always free for a recall to be done* and hydrolic lifters don't need to be changed ever unless you been driving the car with out oil for a long time and the engine is ticking really loudly. Did the shop at least check the throtal body out ? that and the fuel pressure ? the timing sensor at the back of the cam may have also gone faulty which happens from time to time.

Hi Deathjam4, I have a 1.8t avant b6 quattro, was driving it all morning then when home, I then went 10 min down road and on way back stopped at lights and car cut out, it turns over but won't fire up, so pushed to side of road and then tried again, foot flat down on peddle, fires up and straight away dies, did this a few times then just left there and took wife's car, what should I look for on car, it's standard just had cone air filter on it

sounds to me like a air flow or a fuel related issue to me. either something is blocked or built up in the air ways or the fuel is not getting to where it needs to go. Some easy to get done services would be to change the fuel filter out if its not been done in a long time and also if you have not been using the best high tes the filter gets dirty. would be a good place to start

Thanks deathjam, could it be broken wire on maf connector ? I will get on to the car this week and order fuel filter also and start there

@deathjam4 if there is a strong gas smell in the car what are some things that could cause this...I have an 2006 Audi A4 Quattro

most reasons for strong smell of gas would be a ruptured emission line from the emissions control box (characol can) jack up your car take off the drivers side rear wheel and look for the emisions line comming out of the wheel well behind the plastic cover its likely broken and roted off right as it comes out. other issues would intail a ruptured fuel line or a bad filter change. I had a brand new fuel filter once piss gas like no tommorow. put my old one on no leaks. it happens some times.

Mayde Mayde Death Jam, audi a4, b5...i just noticed this a week ago. The vehicle feels as though it goesnt engage any gear after 80Km speed, its pick up is slow also and then the other day wen i visited a friend from another town where the road is a bit on an uphill...i observed tht the vehicle starts to smoke with poor acceleration. changed the plugs and MAF bt still same problem. wats strange is it doesnt smoke on level ground bt has a slow pick up...what could b the problem..

sounds like your transmission is dieing a slow death. Have the fluid level checked and look for signs of leaks. most comman leak spots are at the axel ports.

OKAY thanks I will have this checked next week as i am out of town...will hala you the feedback

Hey DeathJam4, my 2004 audi a4 1.8t manual stalls and takes 3-4 time for it to turn on and the car shakes on neutral

It also show the oil sensor

Death Jam, u r a demon at such things...i toped up my transmission oil and the car is bak to its speed...thanks

Hello DeathJam4, My name is Konstantin and I reached you because of my car's issue. The car is Audi A4 B8, 3.0 TDI Quattro, 2011. I have a technical problem: When I start the car in P mode / fyi: dsg auto transmission 7 / , there is no problem with it but: - When it switches to D mode, the engine sound changes to idle (from 600 to 300 rpm) and reaches 600 rpm again. / Min; - When I start to driving, I immediately hear something like a metal shifting which I dont know whether its normal or not. - When I turn on the air conditioner, the car losses a power /I feel it like that/ and very often when I stop on D mode, the car goes off. Also, when I use a turn signal I can feel some pulsations.Very lightly but I can feel it. - The idle mode in P mode are: 0,4rpm without air conditioner, 0,8rpm with it - The idle mode in D mode is: 1.7 revolutions per minute without air conditioning, 2.5 revolutions per minute with it; *I think these are much higher values - At low speeds / rpms I feel it there is no power /and we have 240 horsepower actually/. I went to every good authorized mechanics of Audi and nobody can tell me what is the reason and its solving. The told me that there is no issue when they connected with its software to the car. Changing of maf sensor, filters, oil transmission and its adaptations, clutch- again without any result. :( In general, the car does not shift from 1-3shifts and 3-1shifts smoothly , less power and the car turns off mainly with air conditioner. Please help in order to stop that nightmare because I can not driving on this way anymore. Many many thanks in advance! Konstantin, Bulgaria

Well i personaly am not terribly familure with desiels but from what i do know of cars it sounds to me like you have some sort of power issues. If you have not had the alternator checked for proper voltage regulation i would do that, at the same time check the battery. A car battery is ussaly designed to last 5 -10 years tops and if it has not been replaced in a long period of time it losses its cranking amps and acids tend to go bad over that time. this could be the source of the issues your having. The other issues you may be having is could also be carbon build up cloging the air ways in the enigne. Diesle engines are not as most people know the cleanest of engines and will often build carbon deposits faster then a regular gas engine. Have this checked out then get back to me. a few other things to check would be fuel filter, and vacum lines but i am betting on the first 2 things. There is a posability the throtale body may be faulty as well. but i preserve the more expensive what ifs for last when i trouble shoot. To check the carbon build up have the spark plug holes camera scoped.

Dear Deathjam4, thank you for your opinion as well as the suggestion for that solving. Concerning to your words, I would like to show you the technical values of the accumulator/car battery. * with switched on an alternator the values are among the references/ ~14,37V About the cleaning of the carbon build cloging up and its air ways- I am still trying to find the best mechanic in order to check all the parts /egr, thotle body, manyfold, swirl flaps/ .. but at the moment nobody wants to do that. As soon as I have any development I will get back to you. Last but not least, after my last diagnostics I have received an error P0401 /please find the attached file/ but I dont have engine light on my dashboard inside the car. P.S. Please, if you think that there would be something other or send me some manual of the exact cleaning of these mentioned parts,above- I will really appreciate your experience and knowledge. Konstantin, Sofia,Bulgaria

*car battery values

well as for the current read out of the code this website should help.http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16785/P0401/001025 . All roads point to an egr failure or poreaty close to all them. as for the battery sounds like the values are very good. Anything bellow 13.5V while running is time to worry about an issue. Most of the cars will run at 13.4 volts during idle under load. on par they run during higher rpms around 14.5 volts at peak. try some trouble shooting from the suggested parts in the web link i sent and hopefully you can get things running smooth again. and i would defantly still try and decarbon the engine if you run ngk plugs you likely will have a higher amount of carbon in the engine then with bosch plugs. You can probley decarbon the throtle body yourself tho. remove it and use maf cleaner on it and a cloth just buy a new gasket for it when you do it. when the throtal body is off see if you can't look in and see what the carbon is like. Ussaly the carbon will be on the valves or just outside the intake so might be able to get a heads up on that part. Clean the maf while you are there since it will come out as you work. its a rather casuealy easy job and can be done at home in roughly an hr. as for the engine decarboning if your over 150,000 km I would defantly consider it but if after troubleshooting the issue the problem goes away i would resolve to leave the decarboning till some time later down the road as it would mean its not a big issue just here and now and can be done at your leasure. let me know how it goes and sorry i did not get back toyou earlier been a busy few weeks for me lately :P

my audi tt's quick start is on and off, it sometimes goes off whiles driving and hesitate to start after wards, it takes like 2 to 5 sec before starting. starting the car when it is parked sometimes starts quickly but sometime hesitates. My mechanics thinks it is the air hoes that controls the engine. i need help.

have your dash cluster checked it may be the signs of a dash cluster starting to get corrupted. this was a very big issue in anny tt older then 2006. if you see any random elements on the screen this would indicate a fault in the dash unit. other wise it would likely be something like the crank case hoses possibly being clogged

Deathjam4 I have a 2005 Audi A4 3.0 engine and bout 3 months ago I cracked my oil pan and I let it sit over night and my girl decided to take my daughter to school next morning and get bout maybe 2 or 3 miles and car just shuts off so had it towed home and now needing to fix,fixed the oilpan but now won't start thought it was the battery so got a jump and nope still not turning over you hear it like trying hard to turn but then just goes click click click

was there any oil left in the car when you changed the pan? Its possible that the engine may have seized up from lack of oil in this case. Try this take all your spark plugs out and put a tiny bit of oil in the cylinders and leave it for maybe a day(put the plugs back in to keep dust out) doing this should let the oil seep in past the pistons to lube it up you should be able to use seafoam as well which would be quicker. after doing this leave all the plugs out and try cranking it and see if it turns over correctly. Doing this with out the plugs in will allow the engine to turn 100% easier In this respect if the engine turns freely with out struggle put the plugs back in and try starting it after leting it dry out from fuel and seafoam for roughly a half hr or 1hr. If it struggles and continues to struggle like this then your engine has damaged the rings on the pistons and requires a rebuild. On a side not also take note to where the oil pan was damaged and how bad as it could have damaged the oil pump. hope that helps let me know how it goes

There wasn't oil left. But it was still like moist from the oil ok gonna try that thank you so much

Deathjam Mayday here... audi a4, b5..when i start the car the rev count goes as high as 2rpm then immediately drops very low way below normal and the vehicle stalls at though its gasping for air...what could b the problem...

start checking your crank case hoses and make sure there is no broken vacum lines.

hi Deathjam, thanks for the advice...sorry i cudnt get bak to u on time coz i wsnt touching the vehicle....today i took yo advice and i started by removing the entire intake manford and the sensores,,,i cleaned all of them with the carb cleaner and throttle...replaced the manifod clips and put the pieces bak and to my suprise it idled well infact the exhause system ws even droping some water....i dnt know what i cud hv done without u, some mechanic wud hv ripped me off...sancho saana (thanks very much)

pls i found some water leaked under engine block and greabox

if its jsut water its fine if its fluid find the leak

@deathjam4 I have a 2014 Audi 2.0 Q5 with 47k miles, which exhibits the same problems. It starts fine most of the time but about 25% of the time when I start the car, the engine starts and as the RPM gauge goes up, it just goes right back down, the car shuts off as if it cannot stay on. It'd only start after waiting 2-4minutes and give it a go 3, 4 times. This problem is very intermittent and almost impossible to find on normal weather days, but it is easier to duplicate on hot weather days and when the car has been sitting under the sun. I went to authorized service center, they were only able to duplicate it once and as per Audi recommendation, they did a full pressure test(no replacements made - just the pressure test) and we're since unable to duplicate the issue again. Service center insists they can't do anything without error codes and if the problem doesn't duplicate. I would like to get this fixed, it is so intermittent annoying and embarrassing when you are in a parking lot and you need to try 5 times to get it started. There are no gas fumes/smell Any advice would be greatly appreciated, what could be the issue, how can I get this to duplicate and how to fix it.

@deathjam: want to quickly add that EPC light comes on when the above problem comes up. It clears itself when the engine starts.

Hello Deathjam, I have a 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro 6spd w/245k miles. Lost all power on the interstate when turning on cruise control @70mph. Had vehicle towed home and havent been able to get it cranked ever since. I have power, all fluids & fuses seem fine. I'm unable to connect to ecu with my scanner to pull any codes. Some previous stored codes are Po300, 305, 431 & 491. Few issues leading up to incident was the car shutting off a few times after getting gas. Had to crank it up 3-4 times before it would stay on. The next time I stop for gas, I was unable to get over a gallon in it. Tank was fully pressurized. I used nozzle to let all the air come out. Tried to add gas but it fuel just poured right out. Used nozzle once again to let the air rush out. My initial thought with car staying cranked was clogged cats (ton of miles) or bad gas. I believe the cc button shutting car off on interstate is another issue. Just trying to get it started to pull codes at this point. I'm pretty sure my scanner worked by just turning key in ignition before all this. Now it says "can not connect to ecu"

Jeffery the very first code you posted was a crank position sensor. If this sensor is malfunctioning it can cause the engine to shut down to keep it from damaging itself. If you can't get the codes or even detect the car you might have some ecu issues, either that or your dongle is not functioning correctly. which is cfollowed by bad cyclinder 5, Cat pressure and then a vacum issue of the secondary air system. I would try addressing these issues and because this is a 3.0L engine I would say check all your crank cases hoses for signs of breaks. This is where you are likely having your bulk of issues coming from. The 3.0L of that era have a very bad design flaw and that is if there is even a single hose line with a leak the engine will not run correctly. If it has not been done already i would just simply replace the whole pvc system with some new after market stuff and that should retifi the issues your having or at least a large portion of it. I am guessing your leak is on the drivers side as thats the most comman side to have cracks and breaks and its where the 5th cylinder is located which is what code 305 is missfire cyclinder 5.

Kausik I am sorry to say i am not terribly failure with the newer modal audis but i will help with what i can, So lets start with the epic light, if you had it at the service center they likely would have found the stored code that woulda left in the computer. if the dash lights come on it stores the code for later so if they told you there was no codes they lied to you which would be par for the course for audi dealers. I had an 2013 adui a4 for 1 year, had a few issues with it but the audi dealer would fight me tooth and nail saying nothing was wrong. Had to take it back 3 times for an oil leak before i refused to leave till they chekced it properly and found out my main crank seals had blown out which i had told them the first day i brought it in. So if you have an issue don't take no for an answer, if you have time and money try finding a good audi/vw specialist in your area, they can at least pull the codes and give them to you. alot of them will do it for free and can often tell you exactly what is causing your issue. Any ways back on course. so any wyas i had a 98 audi that did this and it was cause by a bad tempature sensor in my intake. no idea if this has one as well but it could be a good idea to check and clean all the senosers in the air way. My 2013 audi had a sensor near the front of the car attached to the intake manifold and it looked like a temp sensor to me as it was simalure in nature to the one in my old 98. my 2013's was covered thickly in oil and sludge so i used mafs cleaner on it and it helped mine. if the engine is simalure which it seems to be to the a4 should be one there as well. clean all the sensors you can including the maf *mass air flow* while your at it and see if it helps. I would also try testing it a few ways. Park the car in the shade for like 5-8 hrs and see if it starts alright, next park it in the sun during the hotest part of the day wit hthe hood facing the sun for 2-3 hrs and see how well it starts. If i did this with my 98 when the sensor went bad my car would take a few times of starting before it started. Models that old had old fashioned style thortle body's with cables so i could push the peddle to the floor and crank it and it would start with a little struggling. the point of the sensor is to preserve the engine if it reads to hot. and a black car in the sun .. gets really hot.. any ways try it a few different ways as well. such as park it in the sun with the hood open for a couple hrs and see how well it starts If it only has issues when there is heat present then it is a sensor that is triping a heat warning. and if it only does it which the sun beating down on it then you can get th dealer to easily duplicate the issue. Also i would advise doing what i do. Pull out your phone and record the car doing what your describing and bring it to the dealership. this will help them in thier investigation. tho i would not really rely to heavily on thier trouble shooting skills .. I wasted alot of time and effort at my local audi dealer .. even with full videos and pictures and accurate mechanical information and direct information on where the issue is from even after having my local specialists shop give me a full report on where the issue was and they still would deny anything was wrong with my car. Took them 3 full days to realign a botched steering colunm repair they did on my audi .. its why i own a honda civic now :P