2003 eclipse spyder gs so from what im told my issue is my clutch pressure plate need replaced but is there a way to jerry rig it just to be able to drive it to a repair shop?
Asked by b_nick73 Dec 19, 2013 at 02:07 PM about the 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS Spyder
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
so my eclipse will turn over but wont start and my shifter gets stuck if i try and start it in a
gear. got it looked at and was told its my clutch pressure plate but i cant even get it to
start to get it anywhere is there a way to kinda jerry rig it to get it started to get to a repair
shop?
19 Answers
Yes there is a way to drive without using the clutch but don't advice someone doing it that is not familiar with doing it. Can run into someone if not careful. How many miles on your car? I would check your clutch fluid level and have someone press the clutch pedal while you look at the slave cylinder. It should fully extend. If it does not try bleeding it sometimes this will help to get you back going till you can replace. You could just have a bad slave cylinder or bad clutch master cylinder. These are more likely to go bad than the pressure plate. IMO.
So you can get it out of gear but car still will not start? With it out of gear it should start even if something is wrong with pressure plate. Unless it's all blown to pieces and putting motor in a bind but if that was the cause it probably wouldn't turn over at all or make horrible noises when it did.
sounds like syncros more then a pressure plate. when pressure plates go out you lose torque. when syncros go out it makes it harder to shift. it's pretty impossible to shift with out the clutch. on a motorcycle it easy as hell but in a car they just grind. there isnt enough rpms to shift clutchless like a bike can
I bled the clutch completely yesturday and refilled it and i now have what feels like full pressure back in the clutch pedal. what happend was i went into a ditch and while i was waiting for my friend to come pull me out i thought id try and rock it out by going from 1st to reverse but then at some point it was like i just lost pressure and my clutch pedal had like half pressure so i waited, got pulled out and when i started it, it started right up but i couldnt get it into first so i shut it off put it in first then started it and although it did start up with the clutch all the way down it would pull forward slowly and shaked like it wanted to die. so i dove it down backroads home and let it be for about 2 weeks before i got around to messing with it due to i had to leave for work and when i came back i tried to start it and nothing just turned and turned so then i put it into first and tried to turn it over and the car would creep forward with every turn of the motor until i let off the key then after letting off the key id go to take it out of gear and i had to basically man handle it to get it outa gear and the clutch itself was replaced less than 13 thousand miles ago but it has around 68k miles on it right now. ive never really tinkered to much with cars the only mechanic work ive done is marine diesel engines which is quite a bit different it would appear
Look under dash where top of clutch pedal is. The master cylinder is the shaft coming thru the firewall to the pedal. Check the rubber area around the shaft I feel you might find a small leak there. Inspect slave cylinder for leaks. Something might have happened to one of them for you to have lost pedal. But now that you have full pedal is it still trying to move when you try to start it? If so watch slave cylinder for full extention when pedal is pressed.
Oh they can be drove without a clutch and without grinding. Drove my 3000 gt 110 miles back home two weeks ago with blown master cylinder. Did not grind any gears. You just have to know what you are doing and be careful.
I couldnt detect any leaks. and yes it still tries to move even with the pressure and from what i could tell the slave cylinder was extending good. now the master cylinder underneath the pedal when pressed should the two rubber pieces be actually connecting because if so there is a small gap when the pedal is completely pressed im not sure if its means anything or not just figured id throw it out there and see if it helped. also on a side note id just like to tell you thank you for taking your time to assist me
you didnt mention pressure lose in the clutch. my first thoughts were because i had a friend that warped my pressure plate cause he rode the clutch and decided that drag racing with 3 200 lbs plus ppl in the car would be a deffinate win.
Not necessarily. Will it start up now with it out of gear? And did you have someone pump and hold the pedal when you released and retightened the bleeder on the slave cylinder?
Keith has a point. Warped pressure plate is possible if you was really getting down on it trying to get out of the ditch. But it still should crank and run with it out of gear.
but yea i was gettin on it, bout as hard as it would let me before it went down on me
I feel it not starting is a different issue. Did it drive home ok when out of ditch just not wanting to go in gear properly? Any weird noises? Was ditch full of water?
it could be i suppose. yea it started up multiple times and drove just fine other than the clutch slacking on me thats why i was confused why it wouldnt start up at all when i came back from work and hasnt started since. and no there wasnt any water i wasnt at the bottom. it was really steap and i wasnt going fast i just started sliding when i unknowingly went from dirt to clay so just a few small trees stopped me about half way down. it was raining pretty bad the next day as soon as i got it pulled out but i didnt think it would be a big deal just another drive in the rain? and no, no weird noises like i was sayin just another drive other than the clutch and gears
haha well usually mudding is for my truck but u already know how great that gas mileage is and down where i live if u wanna go anywhere your gonna have to hit a dirt road or two to get there lol looks exactly like mine except mines grey
Ok let's work on getting it cranked. It turns over but does not start?
correct. it sounds like its on the peak of cranking but just not there
Ok first check that you have fire and fuel. If you have fire going to the spark plugs then check for fuel pressure on the fuel rail. You will have to remove fuel pressure regulator or fuel line to do this. I would remove/loosen the fuel line(2 10mm bolts) have someone try to start it. Have rags handy cause fuel should spray everywhere. Note that your fuel pump only comes on when the engine is actually turning over so you will not hear it prime like some cars do. How much fuel is in tank? And is it premium?